a famous promontory, or rather peninsula, of Spain, lying in N. Lat 36. 6. W. Long. 5. 17. To the ancients it was known by the name of Calpe, and was also called one of the Pillars of Hercules; by the Arabians it is called Gebel Tarek, that is, "the mount of Tarek," from Tarek, the name of the Saracen general who conquered Spain in the beginning of the eighth century. The whole is an immense rock, rising perpendicularly about 440 yards, measuring from north to south about two English miles, but not above one in breadth from east to west. The town lies along the bay on the west side of the mountain on a declivity; by which, generally speaking, the rains pass through it, and keep it clean. The old town was considerably larger than the new, which at present consists of between 400 and 500 houses. Many of the streets are narrow and irregular: the buildings are of different materials; some of natural stone out of the quarries, some of a fictitious or artificial stone, and a few of brick. The people are supplied with fresh provisions chiefly from the coast of Barbary, with fruit, roots, and vegetables of all sorts from thence, or from their own gardens. Besides what is properly called the town, there are several spacious and commodious public edifices erected; such as barracks for the soldiers, with apartments for their officers, magazines of different kinds, storehouses for provisions, &c. The inhabitants, exclusive of the British subjects dependent on the garrison, or who reside there from other motives, consist of some Spaniards, a few Portuguese, a considerable number of Geneese, and about as many Jews; making in the whole, according to Dr Campbell, between two and three thousand, without reckoning the garrison; though some make them much fewer. This town may be said to have two ports; the first lying to the north, and is proper only for small vessels; the other is very commodious for large vessels, and has a fine stone quay. The bay is very beautiful and capacious, being in breadth about five miles, and in length eight or nine, with several small rivers running into it. It is very advantageous to the place. There is no ground to be found in the middle of it at 100 fathoms depth, so that a squadron may lie there in great safety; the breezes from it are very refreshing; and it contributes likewise to the subsistence of the inhabitants, by supplying them with plenty of fish.
The strait of Gibraltar, through which the ocean passes into the Mediterranean, thereby dividing Europe from Africa, runs from west to east about 13 leagues. In this strait there are three remarkable promontories or capes on the Spanish side, and as many opposite to them on the Barbary side. The first of these, on the side of Spain, is Cape Trafalgar, opposite to which is Cape Spartal; and in the neighbourhood of this flood the fortress of Tangier, once in the possession of the British. The next on the Spanish side is Tarifa; and opposite it lies Malabata, near the town of Alcafar, where the straits are about five leagues broad. Lastly, Gibraltar facing the mountain of Abyla, near the fortresses and town of Ceuta, which make the eastern entry of the straits.
This important fortress seems to have been first particularly noticed as a place of consequence in the year 712. At that time the general of the caliph Al Wālid landed with an army of 12,000 men on the isthmus between Mount Calpe and the continent; and that he might secure an intercourse with Africa, ordered a castle to be built on the face of that hill. Part of the building still remains; and, from an inscription discovered above the principal gate, appears to have been finished in 725. It continued in the possession of the Saracens till the beginning of the 14th century, when it was recovered by Ferdinand king of Castile. In 1333, however, it was obliged to surrender to the son of the emperor of Fez, who came to the assistance of the Moorish king of Granada. An attempt was made upon it in 1349 by Alonso king of Castile; but when the fortress had been reduced to the last extremity, a pestilential fever broke out in the Spanish camp, which carried off the king himself, with great part of his army; after which the enterprise was abandoned.
The fortress continued in the possession of the Saracen descendants of the prince of Fez until the year 1410, when it was taken possession of by Joseph III. king of Granada. A design of attacking it was formed by Henry de Guifman in 1435; but the enterprise having miscarried through his imprudence, he was defeated and slain. However, it was at length taken after a gallant defence by his son John de Guifman in 1462; since which time it has remained in the hands of the Christians. In 1519, it was surprised and pillaged by Piali Hamet, one of Barbarossa's corsairs; but the pirates having fallen in with some Sicilian galleys, were by them defeated, and all either killed or taken.
In the reign of Charles V. the fortifications of Gibraltar were modernized, and such additions made as to render them almost impregnable. It was taken by the English, however, in the reign of Queen Anne, and since that time has remained in their possession; and probably will always do so, unless ceded by treaty, as it appears altogether impossible to reduce it by any force of artillery, let it ever be so great. In the year 1704, in consequence of the resolution adopted by the court of Britain to assist the archduke Charles in his pretensions to the Spanish crown, Sir George Rooke was sent with a powerful fleet into the Mediterranean. His orders being limited, nothing of consequence was done for some time, until at last an attempt on Gibraltar was resolved upon; not so much on account of the importance of the conquest, as to prevent any reflections against the admiral for inactivity. On the 21st of July that year, 1800 troops were landed upon the isthmus, under the command of the prince of Hesse Darmstadt; and on the refusal of the governor to surrender, preparations were made for attacking the place. Early in the morning of the 23d, a cannonade was begun from the fleet, and kept up to briskly, that in five or fix hours the Spaniards were driven from many of their guns, especially at the new mole head. The admiral perceiving, that, by gaining this part of the fortification, the reduction of the rest would be facilitated, ordered out some armed boats to take possession of it. On their approach the Spaniards sprung a mine, which demolished part of the works, killed two lieutenants and 40 private soldiers, wounding about 60 more. Notwithstanding this disaster, the assailants kept possession of the work, and took a small bastion, now the eight-gun battery, half way between the mole and the town. On this the governor thought proper to capitulate, and the prince of Hesse took possession of the gates on the 24th. The garrison, consisting at most of 150 men, marched out with the honours of war; and the Spaniards who chose to remain were allowed the same privileges they had enjoyed under the reign of Charles II. The works were found very strong, and the place well provided with ammunition and military stores.
This conquest was achieved with the loss of about 60 killed and 216 wounded on the part of the English. The prince of Hesse remained governor; and 18 men of war were left at Lisbon under the command of Sir John Leake, to succour the garrison if there should be occasion. The loss of such an important fortress, however, having alarmed both the courts of Madrid and Paris, orders were sent to the Marquis de Villadarias, a Spanish grandee, to lay siege to it, in which he was to be assisted by a naval force from Toulon. The prince immediately applied to Sir John Leake for assistance; but before the latter had time to comply with his request, a French fleet arrived, and disembarked six battalions to the assistance of the Spaniards; after which they proceeded to the westward, leaving only six frigates in the bay. The trenches were opened on the 11th of October, about which time Sir John arrived with 20 sail of English and Dutch ships; but hearing that the French were about to attack him with a superior force, he judged it proper to return and rest. Having very prudently left orders at Lisbon to make preparations for this purpose in his absence, he was enabled to accomplish this work with such expedition, that on the 29th of the same month, he returned and surprised in the bay three frigates, a fire ship, two English prizes, a tartan, and a store ship. After this exploit he landed some reinforcements, supplied the garrison with fix months provision and ammunition; at the same time detaching on shore a body of 500 sailors to assist in repairing the breaches which had been made by the enemy's fire.
Thus the Spaniards were disappointed in their hopes of succours from an attack which had been projected that very night, and for which purpose 200 boats had been collected. Still, however, they did not despair; and supposing that the garrison would be off their guard and secure on account of the vicinity of their fleet, they formed the rash design of attempting to sur prise the place, though the British admiral was still before it. In this mad attempt 500 volunteers associated, taking the sacrament never to return unless they accomplished their purpose. They were conducted by a goat-herd to the south side of the rock near the cave guard, at that time called the pass of Insect trees. This they mounted, and lodged themselves the first night in the cave of St Michael: the next they scaled Charles V.'s Wall; surprised and massacred the guard at Middle hill; where afterwards, by ropes and ladders, several hundreds of the party designed to support them were hauled up: but being discovered, they were attacked by a strong party of grenadiers, and all of them at last either killed or taken. These brave adventurers were to have been supported by a body of French troops, and some feints were proposed to draw off the attention of the garrison; but, through the disagreement of the commanding officers, these proposals were not put in execution, and thus the volunteers were left to their fate.
Notwithstanding these misfortunes, the Spaniards still continued the siege, and fitted out a strong squadron from Cadiz, with a design to intercept the convoys of provisions which might be sent to the garrison; flattering themselves at the same time, that, on the arrival of their fleet, Sir John would be obliged to retire, and the garrison of consequence to surrender to their united attacks. They continued their fire therefore with additional fury, dismounted many of the cannon, and did essential injury to the works in several different places. The prince of Hesse, however, was by no means deficient in his endeavours to disappoint their expectations. As it was probable that an attempt might be made to storm the curtain, a cuvette was dug in the ditch, which was filled by the tide, and a double row of palisades placed parallel to the works. The chambers of the mine under the glacis were loaded, and all means taken to defeat such an attempt; but on a sudden the Spaniards seemed to have altered their design, and threatened an attack on the lines which the garrison had on the declivity of the hill to flank the glacis, and overlook their advanced works. While affairs remained in this situation, part of the succours they had long expected arrived in the bay, December 7, 1704, and in two days after, the remainder came in with near 2300 men, along with a proportionable quantity of ammunition and provisions. These had failed from Cape Spartel under convoy of four frigates; but were in imminent danger of falling into the hands of the enemy, whose fleet they mistook for their own; however they escaped by the fortunate circumstance of being becalmed, so that they could not get up to them.
Sir John Leake having thus powerfully reinforced the garrison, thought his presence in the bay no longer necessary, and therefore set sail for Lisbon, where he arrived about the end of the year. In the beginning of January 1705, the Spaniards were reinforced by a considerable body of infantry, and on the 11th of the month made an attack on the extremity of the King's Lines, but were repulsed. The attack was renewed next day with 600 grenadiers, French and Walloons, supported by 1000 Spaniards, under Lieutenant General Gibraltar, Fuy. They disputed themselves in such a manner as showed an intention to form a breach which had been made in the Round Tower at the extremity of the King's Lines, and another in the intrenchment on the hill. The retrenchment which covered the latter breach, with part of the intrenchment joining the precipice of the rock, was defended at night by a captain, three subalterns, and 90 men; but it was customary for the captain to withdraw, with two subalterns and 60 men at daybreak. The Round Tower was defended by 180 men, commanded by a lieutenant-colonel. The marquis, by deserters from the garrison, had obtained intelligence of the strength of these posts, and planned his attack accordingly. The detachment for the upper breach mounted the rock at midnight, and concealed themselves in the cliffs until the captain had withdrawn; after which, advancing to the point of the intrenchment, they threw grenades on the subaltern and his party, so that they were obliged to leave the place. At the same time 300 men stormed the Round Tower, where Lieutenant Colonel Bar made a vigorous defence, though the enemy, having passed the breach above, annoyed them on the flanks with great stones and grenades. Observing, however, the Spaniards marching down to cut off his retreat from the town, he retired; and, by getting over the parapet of the King's Lines, descended into the covered way, where the English guards were posted. Thus the garrison were alarmed; all the regiments were assembled at their proper posts; and Captain Fisher endeavoured to stop the progress of the enemy with 17 men, but they were repelled, and himself taken prisoner. At this time, however, the Tower was retaken by Lieutenant Colonel Morcal at the head of 400 or 500 men, after it had been in the possession of the enemy upwards of an hour.
The garrison was now farther reinforced by six companies of Dutch troops and 200 English soldiers, together with some provisions and stores. The assailants, however, were still determined to go on. The marquis de Villadarias was superceded by Maréchal Toffe, a Frenchman, with whom Admiral Pointis was desired to co-operate in blocking up the place. The maréchal therefore joined the army with four fresh battalions, besides eight companies which had been sent before; the ordnance, which had been greatly injured by constant use, was exchanged for others, and the works as they then stood, put into the best repair. On the part of the English, a reinforcement was ordered under the command of Sir Thomas Dilkes and Sir John Hardy, to join Admiral Leake at Lisbon: which junction being effected, the whole fleet, consisting of 28 English, 4 Dutch, and 8 Portuguese men of war, having on board two battalions of land forces, set sail from Lisbon. Happily for the besieged, however, the incessant rains and storms about this time had retarded the operations of the land forces, and greatly distressed the fleet by a lack of the enemy. Eight ships of the latter were forced from their anchors by the strong westerly wind, and obliged to drive aloft. At this critical period Sir John Leake, with the allied fleet, entered the straits. On his approach the few remaining French ships put out to sea; and the British admiral discovering five sail making out of the bay, and a gun fired at them from the garrison, garrison, immediately gave chase. Three French men of war were taken, and the admiral's ship and another driven on shore, where they were burnt. The rest, on hearing the report of the guns, had made the best of their way to Toulon.
The garrison was now so well supplied, that Maréchal Telle withdrew his troops from the trenches, and formed a blockade, drawing an intrenchment across the isthmus to prevent the garrison from ravaging the country. The prince of Hesse remained for some time in the place, where he repaired the batteries, and made some additions to the fortifications; after which he joined the archduke Charles at Lisbon. As the latter, however, was resolved to try his fortune with the earl of Peterborough in Valencia and Catalonia, the prince was sent back to Gibraltar to prepare part of the garrison for embarkation, and soon after was followed by the whole fleet. Major General Ramos was now appointed governor of Gibraltar, in which only two new battalions were left, as nothing was to be feared from the enemy. The new governor, however, brought with him 400 men for the greater security of the place; but soon resigned his government to Colonel Roger Elliot, during whose time Gibraltar was made a free port by a special order from the queen.
Colonel Elliot was succeeded by Colonel Congreve before the year 1714, and he by Colonel Cotton a short time after. In 1720 the Spaniards seem to have threatened another attack. Ceuta, a Spanish fortress in Barbary, had been for many years besieged by the Moors; and a powerful armament, commanded by the marquis de Lada, was now assembled in Gibraltar bay, under pretence of relieving the African fortress, but with a secret design of first surprising Gibraltar; for which purpose they had provided scaling ladders, &c. The armament, however, had not been fitted out with such celerity, but that the British ministry had intelligence of it. On this they sent orders to Colonel Kane, governor of Minorca, to embark with part of his garrison for Gibraltar under convoy of the fleet in the Mediterranean. On his arrival he found the place in a critical situation. The garrison consisted only of three weak battalions under Major Hetherington, besides whom there was only one other field officer, Major Batteroux, in the place, and no more than 14 days provisions remaining. The posture of affairs, however, was altered by the arrival of Colonel Kane with 500 men, with provisions and ammunition; which reinforcement, together with the spirited behaviour of the British commodore, induced the Spanish commander to abandon his design, though he remained of opinion that the fortress might then have been carried by a general assault.
Notwithstanding this disappointment, the Spaniards continued to keep a watchful eye over Gibraltar; and, in the latter end of the year 1726, assembled an army in the neighbourhood of Algeciras, encamping, on the 20th of January following, on the plain below St Roch, and erecting a battery on the beach to protect their camp. Though Admiral Hopson was then at anchor in the bay of Gibraltar, yet, as he had received no intelligence of the actual commencement of hostilities between Britain and Spain, he was obliged to allow the boats of the latter to pass with provisions, arms, and ammunition, between Algeciras and the camp, at the same time that Colonel (afterwards Brigadier) Kane, who had been a second time sent from Minorca, lay under similar embarrassments. The operations of the Spaniards, however, seemed to evidently tend towards an attack, that the governor thought proper to order such of that nation as were in the town to leave it, and to forbid their galleys to anchor under his guns (A).
The count de las Torres commanded the Spanish forces, amounting to near 20,000 men; and soon after forming his camp, he advanced within reach of the garrison. The brigadier then desired him to keep out of his reach, otherwise he should do his utmost to force him; but to this the Spanish commander replied, that, as the garrison could command no more than they had power to maintain, he should obey his Catholic majesty's orders, and encroach as far as possible. Hostilities, however, were not commenced until the 10th of February 1727, when the Spaniards, having brought materials for batteries to the old windmill on the neutral ground, it was determined in a council of war, that the Spanish general had commenced hostilities by encroaching so far on the liberties of the garrison. Still, however, the governor sent to the count to know the reason of breaking ground before the garrison; but received for answer, that "he was in his master's territories, and was not answerable to any other person for his conduct." On this the governor opened the batteries of the Old Mole and those of Willis upon the Spanish workmen: however, they persisted on carrying on their operations, and at night marched a party down to the Devil's Tower, where they immediately broke ground, and began a communication with their other works. The governor was now informed by some deserters, that the enemy were forming a mine in a cave under Willis's Battery, with a design to blow it up: but the plot being thus happily discovered, a party was immediately stationed to cut off the communication. On the 22d of February the Spaniards opened on the garrison with 17 pieces of cannon besides mortars; and the day following Brigadier Kane left Gibraltar to send a reinforcement from Minorca. On the 3d of March the enemy opened a new battery of 22 guns, on the Old Mole, and on the 8th another of 15 guns, bearing also upon the same mole, the guns of which had annoyed the western flank of their approaches.
All this time the garrison had kept up a constant and well directed fire from the batteries which bore upon the works of the enemy; but the ordnance in general being old, were frequently bursting; by which they suffered more than from the fire of the besiegers.
(a) At this time the fortifications of Gibraltar were considerably different from what they had been in 1705. Several works were erected on the heights above the lines called Willis's Batteries; the Prince's Lines were extended to the extremity of the rock, and an inundation was formed out of the moras in front of the grand battery. The latter were also greatly distressed by the fleet under Admiral Hopson and Sir Charles Wager, who, since the beginning of the siege, had intercepted their home-bound ships, and at the same time greatly benefited the garrison, by bringing the prizes into the bay. Finding the Spaniards, however, obstinately bent on their enterprise, they formed a design, on the 2d of April, to bombard Algeciras, from whence the besiegers were supplied with various articles of ammunition; but the fleet happening to be becalmed, the design was afterwards unaccountably abandoned; and on the arrival of a reinforcement from Minorca, they failed to the westward, leaving the garrison to defend themselves the best way they could.
The enemy continued to augment their batteries, and erect new ones, until they amounted at last to 60 cannon besides mortars; and, on the 3d of May, the governor received intelligence that a general assault was intended; to repel which he took every proper precaution. The enemy, however, still added to their approaches, and considerable reinforcements were received by both parties. Hostilities, however, ceased on the 12th, when news arrived that the preliminaries of a general peace were signed; from which time to the year 1779, no farther attempts were made on Gibraltar. In the course of these two sieges the loss of the Spaniards was very considerable; that of 1705 costing them not less than 10,000 men, including those who died of sickness; and in that of 1727 their loss was computed at near 3000, besides casualties, which could not be ascertained. That of the garrison amounted in 1705 to 400; and in 1727 to 300; a very small number, considering that during the siege 70 cannon and 30 mortars burst on the batteries.
The hostile manifesto presented by the Spanish ambassador to the court of London at the commencement of the American war, was soon followed by an interruption of communication betwixt Spain and the forts of Gibraltar. No direct intention of attacking or distressing it, however, was manifested till the 16th of July, when the port was completely blocked up by a squadron of two 74 gun ships, several frigates, galleys, &c. Ten days after they began to form a camp on the plain below St Roch, three miles from the forts. The garrison at this time consisted of 5382 men, including officers, with a company of engineers and artificers; but the greatest expectations were formed from the abilities and valour of General Elliot the governor. As soon as the breaking off the communication with Spain indicated approaching hostilities, the governor took every precaution that could be suggested by military wisdom; but though informed of the rupture betwixt the two courts having actually taken place, and though he beheld the hostile operations of the enemy, no means were used to interrupt them till the 12th of September, when the batteries of Green's Lodge, Willis, and Queen Charlotte, were opened for a few hours, with a view to disturb the workmen.
From this time to the beginning of the year 1780 the enemy continued the blockade both by sea and land, but without doing any damage to the works or garrison, and it was not until the 12th of January that a single person was wounded. This happened to be a woman, who, passing near one of the houses, was slightly hurt by a shot from the enemy. In the mean time, however, the usual supplies of provisions being cut off, the garrison began to feel all the horrors of famine. All the necessaries of life were very scarce, and to be procured only at exorbitant prices. Veal, mutton, and beef, sold from half a crown to four shillings per pound; fresh pork from two to three shillings; salted beef and pork threepence; fowls eighteen shillings per couple; ducks a guinea; fire wood, five shillings per hundred weight; a pint of milk and water fifteenpence; a small cabbage cost five shillings, and a small bunch of outer leaves fivepence; Irish butter half a crown per pound; candles as much; and eggs sixpence each. As the rock, however, is almost surrounded by the sea, it was natural to suppose, that in such a scarcity of other provisions great benefit would have been derived from the ocean; but the fishermen, being all foreigners, and under no regulation, took advantage of the present scarcity of provisions in the garrison to exact a most exorbitant price for the fish they supplied.
Had matters remained long in this state, it is plain that the forts, however strong, must have fallen into the hands of the enemy. They were, however, effectually relieved in consequence of the victory gained by Admiral Rodney over the Spanish fleet commanded by Don Juan de Langara. The former had been furnished with a strong squadron, in order to relieve this important fortress; with which having set sail, he in a few days fell in with a Spanish fleet of 16 transports bound from Bilboa to Cadiz, and laden with provisions and naval stores, convoyed by a man of war of 64 guns, four frigates, and two armed vessels. Of these only a single transport escaped, the rest being all captured on the 8th of January 1780; and the loss of them, at the same time that it promised to be very serviceable to the garrison, was equally detrimental to the enemy, who were now in great want both of provisions and materials for their shipping.
This advantage was soon after followed by a much greater. On the 16th of the same month a Spanish squadron of 11 sail of the line was discovered off Cape St Vincent; and the British admiral having taken the proper methods to come up with them as quickly as possible, an engagement took place about four in the afternoon. At this time the headmost ships of the British line closed in with the nearest of the enemy, and in half an hour one of the Spaniards, mounting 70 guns, and having on board 600 men, blew up, and all on board perished. In two hours more another Spanish ship of the line was taken; notwithstanding which the fight continued with great vigour till two in the morning, when the headmost ship of the enemy struck to the Sandwich; after which the firing ceased. The weather throughout the night was so tempestuous that it was with the utmost difficulty the British could take possession of those ships which surrendered. These were six in number, but two of them drove ashore and were lost, only four being brought safe into Gibraltar. These were the admiral's ship of 80 guns and 700 men, with three others of 70 guns and 600 men. The engagement, however, happened so near the shore, and the British were so eager in securing the lee gage to prevent the enemy's escape, that Admiral Rodney's ship, together with some of the largest in the fleet, were in great danger of running on the shoals of St Lucar; Gibraltar, nor could they be got into deep water again without much labour and the exertion of great naval skill. It was the opinion of all who were present in the action, that had this engagement happened in the day time, or had the weather been less boisterous, not one of the Spanish ships could have escaped; and even as it was, those which got off were so essentially damaged as to be unfit for service.
The news of this important victory arrived at Gibraltar on the evening of the day after it was fought; and in two days more the garrison was completely relieved by the arrival of the fleet and convoy, at the same time that they were farther reinforced by a regiment of Highlanders, consisting of 1051 men, officers included. An opportunity was also taken of sending away with the fleet all the invalids and women in the garrison; with whom they set sail on the 10th of February, leaving in the bay only the Edgar and Panther ships of the line, with two frigates.
On the departure of the British fleet, the blockade was immediately resumed; and notwithstanding the ample supplies lately received, the garrison soon began again to experience the inconvenience of wanting fresh provisions. It had hitherto received these in abundance from the coast of Barbary; but an unaccountable alteration had now taken place, so that the friendship of the emperor of Morocco was transferred from Great Britain to Spain in a manner totally unprecedented. His partiality towards the latter was the more surprising, as Britain had given no provocation, and the enmity between Spain and Morocco seemed to be in a manner constitutional, and founded upon such causes as could never cease to operate. Thus, however, the garrison became daily more and more distressed, from being obliged to make constant use of their felt provisions, and even this with the strictest economy. The industry and resolution of the British seamen and officers, indeed, sometimes overcame all obstacles, so that they found means to procure the necessary refreshments; though in so doing they were certainly exposed to the utmost danger from the enemy. At the same time the defence of the garrison was so vigorous, that while it continued to be supplied even in this scanty manner, the Spaniards began to lose all hope of reducing it; for which reason they formed a project of burning all the British shipping in the bay. The night appointed for putting this scheme in execution was the 6th of June 1782, when 10 fire ships, favoured by an uncommon darkness, flood over from the Spanish to the British side of the bay. Their design was to set fire to the storehouses nearest to the water side, as well as to the shipping there; but having been too precipitate in firing their ships, and being received also by a very heavy cannonade, the attempt was frustrated. On this occasion the skill and intrepidity of the British seamen were eminently displayed. Having manned their boats, they grappled the fire ships already in flames; and, notwithstanding their dreadful appearance and the danger of their exploding, towed them clear of the vessels under the walls and extinguished them.
The failure of this project was a grievous disappointment to Don Barcelo the Spanish admiral, who lay ready with his squadron to intercept the British vessels that might attempt to escape; at the same time that the batteries on their lines were in readiness to bombard the town, if the fire-ships had succeeded in causing any conflagration on shore. The failure of the present attempt, however, was soon followed by other disasters. As soon as they had, with great labour, pushed forward their new works, and constructed new works de-batteries, they were certainly destroyed by the besieged; and their mortification on these occasions was the greater, as it was usual for the governor to allow them to complete their works before he commenced his destructive operations. Thus the labour of many days was often lost in a few hours, and afterwards was to be resumed with as little prospect of success as before. The garrison was now considerably annoyed by the Spanish gun boats, to which indeed the shipping were equally exposed with themselves. These were vessels from 30 to 40 tons burden, constructed so that they lay low in the water, which rendered them difficult to be aimed at. They had 15 oars on a side, carried 40 or 50 men, with a 26 pounder on the prow; and, from the facility of managing them, two were deemed, in calm weather to be a match for a frigate of moderate size. All their efforts, however, could still do no more than to reduce the garrison to great straits for want of provisions; and to this dreadful inconvenience the British submitted with the greatest cheerfulness. From the time of Admiral Rodney's departure in the month of February 1780 to the month of October, almost the only provisions in the garrison were such as tended to produce the scurvy; which accordingly raged in such a manner, as to threaten the most fatal consequences. An antidote, however, was happily procured by the capture of a Danish dogger from Malaga laden with lemons and oranges, which the rages in the governor immediately purchased for the use of the garrison, and distributed among them. "At this time (says Captain Drinkwater) the scurvy had made dreadful ravages in our hospitals, and more were daily confined: many however, unwilling to yield to its first attacks, persevered in their duty to the more advanced stages. It was therefore not uncommon, at this period, to see men, who, some months before, were hale, and capable of enduring any fatigue, supporting themselves to their posts upon crutches, and even with that assistance scarcely able to move along. The most fatal consequences in short were to be apprehended to the garrison from this terrible disorder, when this Dane was happily directed to our relief." According to Mr Cairncrofts, an eminent surgeon, Cairncrofts who was present during this siege, "the scurvy which now raged in Gibraltar, differed in no respect from that disease usually contracted by sailors in long sea voyages; and of which the immediate cause seemed to be the subsisting for a length of time upon failed provisions only, without a sufficient quantity of vegetables or other acidulous foods. The circumstances related in the voyage of that celebrated circumnavigator Lord Anson of consolidated fractures disuniting, and the callosity of the bone being perfectly dissolved, occurred frequently in our hospitals, and old forces and wounds opened anew from the nature of the disorder. Various antiscorbutics were used without success, such as acid of vitriol, four eau, extract of malt, essence of spruce, &c.; but the only specifics were fresh lemons and oranges given liberally; or, when they could not be procured, the preserved juice in such quantities, from one to four ounces per day, as the patient could bear. Whilst the lemons were found, from one to three were administered each day as circumstances directed. The juice given to those in the most malignant state was sometimes diluted with sugar, wine, or spirits; but the convalescents took it without dilution. Women and children were equally affected; nor were the officers exempted from this dreadful disorder. It became almost general at the commencement of the winter season, owing to the cold and moisture, and in the beginning of spring when vegetables were scarce. The juice was preserved by adding to 60 gallons of expressed liquor about five or ten gallons of brandy, which kept it in so wholesome a state, that several casks were opened in good condition at the close of the siege. The old juice, however, was not so speedily efficacious as the fruit, though by persevering longer in its use it seldom failed.
Till this month the allowance of salt provisions had continued undiminished; but now it was judged necessary to reduce the allowance of bread and meat, and to make some other regulations in order to enforce the strictest economy with regard to food. Every thing of this kind that could be practised, however, seemed insufficient to preserve the garrison from absolute want. In the beginning of the year 1781, provisions became exceedingly scarce, by reason of the almost total expenditure of what was contained in the public stores, and the vigilance of the enemy's cruisers. About the middle of February the town bakers left off work for want of flour; and many of the poorer sort wanted bread. The price of fresh provisions again rose to a most enormous height. Small pigs sold at two guineas; turkeys at three; geese at 30 shillings; fowls and ducks at 10 shillings; damaged biscuit a shilling the pound; pease 1s. 6d.; and all other necessaries in proportion; at the same time the scarcity of fuel was such, that it was sometimes scarcely procurable in quantity sufficient to dress the victuals.
The garrison had hitherto derived assistance occasionally from the gardens on the neutral ground, though vast quantities of vegetables had been removed thence by the enemy. Towards the end of the month of October 1780, however, the Spaniards determined to expel the British from the gardens entirely: and this they accomplished in spite of all that could be done to prevent them. From this time the resources with regard to vegetables depended entirely upon the attention paid to cultivation; which, happily for the garrison, was attended with such success, especially during the winter months, that the produce came at last to be nearly equal to the demand. At last, on the 12th of April 1781, supplies were brought by the British fleet under Admirals Darby, Digby, and Rofe, though they could not be got in without great difficulty. The gun boats already mentioned were now much increased in number and strength of construction; infesting the bay in such a manner as greatly to interrupt the disembarkation of the stores. As no vessels of the same kind had been prepared to oppose them, they could scarce be prevented from effecting their purpose of burning the store ships. With this view they had approached them every morning in hazy weather to the number of between 20 and 30, several of them carrying Gibraltar mortar-pieces; and as they used both sails and oars, they eluded all pursuit, by withdrawing on the rise of any breeze. To keep off these troublesome guests, several stout frigates were obliged to station themselves along the bay for the protection of the shipping; but even this did not prevent them from continuing their molestation; and notwithstanding the vigilance and activity of the British sailors, it was seldom that they could come near enough to do them any damage. In spite of all their endeavours, however, the garrison was effectually relieved: an exploit which so exceedingly irritated the court of Spain, that they determined to make exert the utmost force of the kingdom rather than fail to execute the execution of their favourite project. The works, etc. before the town were therefore carried on with more vigour than ever, and the most tremendous preparations made to cause the obstinate garrison feel the resentment of an exasperated enemy. Their batteries were now mounted with guns of the heaviest metal, and with mortar-pieces of the largest size; the number of the former augmented to near 200, and of the latter to upwards of 80. For three weeks this prodigious artillery continued to pour forth an almost incessant shower of shot and shells, insomuch that, in the time just mentioned, they had consumed 100,000lb. of gunpowder, and thrown into the town four or five thousand shot or shells every 24 hours.
By such an immense bombardment the town was almost totally laid in ruins. The inhabitants, computed at more than 3000 in number, experienced every difficulty that could arise from the destruction of their habitations: several of them were killed, and all forced to leave the town, and take shelter under tents with what accommodation could be provided for them in such scenes of horror and confusion. Numbers took the opportunity of retiring with the fleet; while many that remained were now reduced from a state of opulence to the greatest distress. The conduct of Governor Elliot was very humane and compassionate to such as were inclined to depart; allowing them a free passage to England, and supplying them with provisions for the voyage.
During this bombardment, not only the greatest part of the effects belonging to the inhabitants were destroyed, but the fortifications were in many places greatly injured; and the world was, that the remainder were destroyed by the soldiers, who had arrived at such a pitch of licentiousness, that they neither regarded the behaviour of the inhabitants nor would obey their officers. They were incited to this destructive scheme by the avarice of some of the inhabitants who had hoarded up and concealed a quantity of necessary articles, in order to procure an advanced price. They now, therefore, kept no bounds in dissipation, waste, and extravagance; a remarkable instance of which is given by Captain Drinkwater, in their roasting a pig by a fire made of cinnamon. To put a stop to these atrocious proceedings, rigorous measures were of necessity adopted; and it was intimated, that any soldier convicted of being drunk or asleep upon his post, or found marauding, should be immediately executed. The loss of human lives during this dreadful bombardment was less than could have been expected; but many remarkable circumstances are taken notice of by Captain Drinkwater, some of which are related in the note (b).
By the beginning of June 1781, the enemy had relaxed considerably in their firing, seldom exceeding 600 shot in a day; and continued gradually to diminish this number so remarkably, that towards the end of August, they seldom fired in the day, and only discharged fix or seven, and sometimes not above three, shot in the night. The batteries at land, however, were succeeded by the gun-boats; which renewed their attacks every day, keeping the garrison in continual alarm, and never failing to do more or less execution. To restrain them, therefore, a battery of guns capable of throwing their shot to a great distance was erected as near as possible to the enemy; and as it reached their very camp, it was determined to open it upon them as often as the gun boats made their attacks; which being soon perceived, they thought it prudent to desist in some measure from that mode of hostility. They continued still, however, to improve their works, and for this purpose employed the best engineers both of France and Spain; so that by the latter part of November 1781, they had brought them to such a state of perfection as filled both kingdoms with the most sanguine expectations of success. Governor Elliot, however, far from being dismayed at these formidable bulwarks, suffered them to proceed without molestation to the end of their scheme, that he might as in a moment destroy the labour of so many months, and thus render the disappointment the greater. In the night of the 27th of November, a chosen party of 2000 men were detached, in order to destroy the enemy's works and batteries; and their success was equal to their most sanguine expectations. They marched out in great order and silence about two o'clock in the morning, under the command of Brigadier General Rofs; after which they proceeded with the same circumpection, but with the utmost celerity, to the enemy's works, which they stormed and overthrew with astonishing rapidity. The Spaniards were instantly thrown into confusion, and fled on every side; the guns and mortars on the batteries were all spiked up;
(b) Two boys belonging to the artificer company were endowed with such wonderful strength of vision, that they could see the shot of the enemy in the air almost as soon as it came from the mouth of the gun; and were therefore constantly placed upon some part of the works to give notice to the soldiers of the approaching danger. During the time of the hottest fire, however, the men were so habituated to the fall of shells and shot around them, that they contracted an insensibility of danger, and almost required to be cautioned by their officers to avoid the explosion of a shell when lying with the fuse burning at their feet. In consequence of this inattention, they frequently neglected the advice of the boys above mentioned, and their neglect could not but be productive of fatal effects. An instance of this happened on the Prince's Amelia's battery, where a shot thus disregarded came through one of the capped embrasures, carried off one leg from each of three soldiers, and wounded a fourth in both. In other cases, in which the persons themselves have observed the shot or shells coming towards them, they have been fascinated by its appearance, and unable to move from the spot, as small birds are said to be by the rattle-snake. "This sudden arrest of the faculties (says our author) was nothing uncommon: several instances occurred to my own observation, where men, totally free, have had their senses so engaged by a shell in its descent, that though sensible of their danger, even so far as to cry for affluence, they have been immovably fixed to the place. But what is more remarkable, these men have so instantaneously recovered themselves on its fall to the ground, as to remove to a place of safety before the shell burst." In this manner Lieutenant Lowe of the 12th regiment was fascinated by a shot which he saw coming, but had not power to remove from the place before it fell upon him and took off his leg.
Where these shells burst they produced instant and certain destruction, mangling in the most dreadful manner. The following are some instances: A matro's had the misfortune of breaking his thigh by some accident; and being a man of great spirit, could scarce bear the confinement necessary for its reunion. In consequence of this he went abroad too soon, and thus unfortunately broke the bone a second time. Being now confined to bed, a shell happened to fall into the room where he was, and, rebounding, lodged itself directly upon him. The convalescents and sick instantly summoned all their strength, and crawled out of the room, while the poor matro's lay below the shell, kept down by its weight, and utterly unable to stir. In a few seconds it burst, and took off both his legs, and foreshadowed him in a dreadful manner. He survived the explosion, was sensible to the last moment, and died regretting that he had not been killed on the batteries. The case of a soldier of the 73d regiment shows, that even in the most dangerous cases we should never despair of recovery while life remains. This unfortunate man had been knocked down by the wind of a shell, which, instantly bursting, killed his companion, and mangled himself in a shocking manner. His skull was dreadfully fractured, his left arm broken in two places, one of his legs shattered, the skin and muscles torn off from part of his right hand, the middle finger broken to pieces, and his whole body most severely bruised and marked with gunpowder. He presented so horrid an object to the surgeons, that they had not the least hopes of saving his life, and were at a loss what part to attend first. He was that evening trepanned; a few days afterwards his leg was amputated, and other wounds and fractures were dressed. Being possessed of a most excellent constitution, nature performed wonders in his favour, and in 11 weeks his cure was completely effected. On the 18th of September a shell from the lines fell into a house where the town major, Captain Burke, with Majors Mercier and Vignoles of the 39th regiment were sitting. It took off Major Burke's thigh; afterwards fell through the floor into the cellar: there it burst, and forced the flooring with the unfortunate major up to the ceiling. When assistance came, they found him almost buried in the ruins of the room. He was instantly conveyed to the hospital, where he died soon after the wounded part had been amputated. Majors Mercier and Vignoles, Gibraltar, and the artillerymen, artificers, and sailors, exerted themselves so vigorously, that in the space of an hour the magazines were blown up, the storehouses of arms, ammunition, and military implements of every kind, and all the works that had been constructed, were set on fire, and totally consumed; the whole damage done on this occasion being estimated at upwards of two millions sterling.
For several days after this disaster the Spaniards continued inactive, without even making any attempt to extinguish their batteries, which still continued in flames; but in the beginning of December, as if suddenly aroused from their reverie, upwards of 1000 men were set to work in order to prepare a great number of fascines, from whence it was concluded that they designed to repair their works. In this they proceeded with their usual perseverance and diligence; but as the former methods of attack had constantly failed, it was evident, that if the place could be reduced at all, it must be by some means hitherto unattempted; and for the reduction of this single fortress, the Spanish monarch, after the conquest of Minorca, determined to employ the whole strength of his empire. Among the various projects formed at this time, that of the chevalier D'Arcon, a French engineer of distinction, proved the most acceptable to the court of Spain; and though the expense attending it was immense, this seemed in the present circumstances to be but a matter of small consideration. His plan was to construct such floating batteries as might neither be liable to be sunk nor set on fire. With this view their bottoms were made of the thickest timber, and their sides of wood and cork long soaked in water, with a layer of wet sand betwixt them. Their thickness was such, that they were impenetrable to cannon shot; and to prevent the effects of red-hot balls, a number of pipes were contrived to carry water through every part of the vessel, and pumps sufficient to furnish a constant supply for the purpose. The people at the batteries were sheltered from the bombs by a rope-netting, made sloping that they might roll off, and spread with wet skins to prevent fire. Ten of these batteries were constructed out of the hulls of large vessels, some of 50 or 60 guns, cut down for that purpose, and carrying from 10 to 28 guns each, with about half as many in reserve in case of accidents. Each gun was served by 36 artillery men; and these floating batteries were to be seconded by 80 large boats carrying guns and mortars of heavy metal; a great number of ships of force and frigates, with some hundreds of small craft, were to accompany them with troops, for the instant execution of what might be judged necessary. On this occasion upwards of 1000 pieces of artillery, and 80,000 barrels of gunpowder were provided. A body of 12,000 of the best troops of France were now added to the Spanish army before the place; the body of engineers was the best that both kingdoms could produce; and numbers of volunteers, of the best families in both, attended the siege. Numbers of military gentlemen also came from every part of Europe to be witnesses of what passed at this celebrated siege, which was now compared to the most famous recorded in history. The conducting of it was committed to the duke de Crillon, who had distinguished himself by the conquest of Minorca. Two princes of the blood royal of France, the count of Artois brother to the king, and the duke of Bourbon his cousin, came to be witnesses of this extraordinary enterprise. These behaved with the greatest politeness both to the governor and garrison. The count of Artois transmitted a packet of letters for various individuals in the garrison, which had been intercepted and carried to Madrid, and which he requested that he might be the means of conveying to those for whom they were designed. Both he and the duke of Bourbon signified to General Elliot the high regard they had for his person and character; and the duke de Crillon himself took this opportunity of expressing the same sentiments, and to entreat him to accept of some refreshments. General Elliot returned a polite answer, but accepted of the present with reluctance, and requested him for the future not to confer any favours of that kind upon him.
Such a prodigious armament raised the confidence of the besiegers so high, that they looked upon the armament brought before the fort as certain of conquest.
Vignoles had time to escape before the shell burst; nevertheless they were slightly wounded by the splinters, as were a sergeant and his daughter, who happened to be in the cellar when the shell entered.
The following are related as instances of very extraordinary escapes from the destructive power of these engines, and which indeed it seems difficult to account for.—A corporal had the muzzle of his firelock closed, and the barrel twifled like a French horn, by a shell, without any injury to his person. A shell happened to fall into a tent where two soldiers were asleep, without awakening them by its fall. A sergeant in an adjacent tent heard it, and ran near 40 yards to a place of safety, when he recollected the situation of his comrades. Thinking the shell had fallen blind, he returned and awakened them; both immediately rose, but continued by the place, debating on the narrow escape they had had, when the shell exploded, and forced them with great violence against a garden wall, but "miraculously" did no further mischief than destroying every thing in the tent. On the new year's day of 1782, an officer of artillery observed a shell falling towards the place where he stood, and got behind a traverse for protection. This he had scarcely done, when the shell fell into the traverse, and instantly entangled him in the rubbish: one of the guards, named Martin, observing his distress, generously risked his own life in defence of his officer, and ran to extricate him: but finding his own efforts ineffectual, called for assistance; when another of the guard joining him, they relieved the officer from his situation; and almost at the same instant the shell burst, and levelled the traverse with the ground. Martin was afterwards promoted, and rewarded by the governor; who at the same time told him, that "he should equally have noticed him for attending to his comrade." A shell happening to fall into the room where Ensign Mackenzie of the 73d regiment was sitting, carried away part of his chair, and fell into the room below, where it burst, lifting him and the chair from the floor without further injury. Gibraltar. conquest of the place as an absolute certainty. They began to be impatient at the delays which arose in bringing matters to the utmost point of perfection; and the commander in chief was thought by far too modest, when he said that the garrison might hold out for a fortnight. "It appeared (says Captain Drinkwater) that they meant, previous to their final efforts, to strike if possible a terror through their opponents, by displaying an armament more powerful than had probably ever been brought before any fortres. Forty-seven sail of the line, including three inferior two-deckers; ten battering ships, deemed perfect in design, and esteemed invincible, carrying 212 guns; innumerable frigates, xebecques, bomb ketches, cutters, gun and mortar boats, and smaller craft for disembarking men, were assembled in the bay. On the land side were most stupendous and strong batteries and works, mounting 200 pieces of heavy ordnance, and protected by an army of near 42,000 men, commanded by a victorious and active general, and animated by the immediate presence of two princes of the blood royal of France, with other dignified personages, and many of their own nobility. In their certainty of success, however, the enemy seemed entirely to have overlooked the nature of that force which was opposed to them; for though the garrison scarcely consisted of more than 7000 effective men, including the marine brigade, they forgot that they were now veterans in this service, had long been habituated to the effects of artillery, and were by degrees prepared for the arduous conflict that awaited them. We were at the same time commanded by officers of approved courage, prudence, and activity; eminent for all the accomplishments of their profession, and in whom we had unbounded confidence. Our spirits too were not a little elevated by the success attending the firing of red-hot shot (c), which in this attack we hoped would enable us to bring our labours to a conclusion, and relieve us from the tedious cruelty of a vexatious blockade."
As a prelude to the dreadful storm which was about to be poured forth on this devoted garrison, the enemy, on the 9th of September 1782, opened a battery of 64 of their largest cannon, which was shortly accompanied with a terrible fire from other batteries, and a great number of mortars. On this and the following day an attack was made upon the batteries erected on Europa Point (so called from being the most southerly point of the continent of Europe), which at that time were entirely under the management of Captain Curtis of the Brilliant frigate, who had distinguished himself during the siege, and now commanded a brigade of seamen by whom the batteries were served. By these the fire of the Spaniards was so warmly returned, that they not only could make no impression, but were forced to retire, after having received so much damage, that two of their principal ships were obliged to withdraw to the bay of Algeciras opposite to Gibraltar, in order to refit. On the 12th the enemy made preparations for the ensuing day, which was allotted for their grand and decisive attack. Accordingly, on the morning of the 13th, the ten floating batteries came forward, under the command of Don Buenaventura de Moreno, a Spanish officer of great 13th of Sept. gallantry, and who had signalized himself at the taking of Minorca. Before ten o'clock they had all got into their proper stations, anchoring in a line about a thousand yards distant from the shore. As soon as they were properly arranged, they began a heavy cannonade, and were seconded by all the cannon and mortars in the enemy's lines and approaches, at the same time that the garrison opened all its batteries both with hot and cold shot from the guns, and shells from the howitzers and mortars. This terrible fire continued on both sides without intermission until noon; when that of the Spaniards began to slacken, and the fire of the garrison to obtain a superiority. About two o'clock the principal battering ship commanded by Don Moreno was observed to emit smoke as if on fire, and some men were seen busy upon the roof searching from whence it proceeded. The fire from the garrison was now kept up without the least discontinuance or diminution, while that from the floating batteries was perceived sensibly to decrease; so that about seven in the evening they fired but few guns, and that only at intervals. At midnight the admiral's ship was plainly seen to burn, and in an hour after was completely in flames. Eight more of these batteries took fire successively; and on the signals of distress made by them, destruction of the multitude of feluccas, launches, and boats, with which they were surrounded, all came to their afflaintance, and began to take the men out of the burning vessels. Captain Curtis, who lay ready with the gunboats to take advantage of any favourable circumstance, came upon them at two in the morning, and forming a line on the enemy's flank, advanced upon them with such order and expedition as to throw them into immediate confusion. At this sudden and unexpected attack they were so astonished and disconcerted, that they fled precipitately with all their boats, totally abandoning the floating batteries to be burnt, and all who were in them to perish in the flames. This would undoubtedly have been their fate, had not Captain Curtis extricated them from the fire at the imminent danger of his own life and that of his men. In this work he was so eager, that while his boat was alongside of one of the largest batteries, it blew up, and the fragments of the wreck spreading all around to a vast distance, some heavy pieces of timber fell into his boat and pierced through its bottom, killing one man and wounding several others. He escaped with difficulty out of this boat, which was sunk, as well as another, by the same accident. The floating batteries were every one consumed; and the violence with which they exploded was such that doors and windows at a great distance on shore were burst open. About 400 people were saved from them; many of whom were picked up floating on rafts and pieces of timber. Indeed the blowing up of
(c) This was suggested by Lieutenant Governor Boyd, and had been attended with remarkable success, September 8th, when the enemy's advanced works were almost destroyed by it. Gibraltar, the batteries as the flames reached their powder rooms, and the discharge of the guns in succession as the metal became heated by the fire, rendered any attempt to save them very dangerous.
This terrible catastrophe took place in sight of the combined fleets of France and Spain. It had been proposed that they should co-operate upon this important occasion, by attacking the garrison at Europa Point, and such places as appeared most exposed to an attempt by sea. This, it was afterwards said, must have occasioned a material diversion of the garrison's force, and, by dividing it, have weakened considerably the vigorous means of defence used in those parts which were actually attacked. The reason assigned for this inactivity was the want of wind.
Though this terrible repulse effectually convinced the Spaniards that Gibraltar could not be taken by force, some hope still remained, that, without any further exertions on their part, the garrison would be obliged to surrender from want of ammunition and provisions. With this view they continued to blockade it closely, and to cut off all communication, flattering themselves that Britain would not be able to collect a naval force sufficient to drive their fleet from the bay before the fortress was reduced to extremity; and this they imagined must be the case in a few days. Such diligence, however, had been used on the part of the British, that a fleet was already assembled at Portsmouth, consisting of 35 sail of the line, in excellent condition, and filled with the best officers and sailors in Europe. The command was given to Lord Howe, who was accompanied in the expedition by Admirals Barrington, Milbank, Hood, Sir Richard Hughes, and Commodore Hotham, all of them men eminent in their profession. At the same time also it fortunately happened, that a large British fleet of merchantmen had just arrived in safety from the Baltic; and that a Dutch squadron which had been cruising on their own coasts, not being able to penetrate southwards in order to join the French, had retired into port, and given up the intention of effecting any junction for that season.
At this time the British nation was in the utmost anxiety about the fate of Gibraltar. The progress of the ships was delayed by contrary winds, and it was not until they had gained the southern coast of Portugal that they received information of the defeat of the enemy's attempt on the 13th of September. On the 11th of October, Lord Howe entered the Straits, and several of the store ships destined for Gibraltar came safe to anchor under the cannon of the fort without any molestation from the enemy. The combined fleet in the mean time had been much damaged by a storm; two ships of the line were driven ashore near Algebras; two more were driven out of the bay into the Mediterranean; others lost their masts, and most of them suffered considerably. One in particular, a ship of 70 guns, was carried by the storm across the bay, and ran aground under the works of Gibraltar, where she was taken by the garrison, with her whole complement of men, consisting of 700. Notwithstanding the endeavours of the enemy to destroy her, she was safely got off, and properly repaired. The combined fleet, however, put to sea on the 13th, with a view to prevent the remaining storeships that had overshot the bay to the cast from making good their entrance into it; and at the same time to rejoin the two ships that had been separated from the main body by the storm. Having the advantage of the wind, they bore down upon the British fleet, which drew up in order of battle to receive them; but notwithstanding their superiority, they declined coming to an engagement. On the wind becoming more favourable next day, Lord Howe took the opportunity to bring in the foreflaps that were in company; and the day following the remainder were conveyed to Gibraltar, the troops for the reinforcement of the garrison were landed, with a large supply of powder, and ample provision in every other respect. As they returned through the straits they were threatened with an engagement by the combined fleets; but though the latter had a superiority of 12 ships of the line, they kept a wary distance. Some firing indeed took place, but it was attended with little effect on either side.
This last relief proved entirely decisive; for though the blockade continued till news arrived of the preliminaries of peace being signed, in the beginning of February 1783, no other attack was made. The news of the pacification was received with the utmost joy by the Spaniards. Mutual civilities passed between the commanders in chief, and the Duke de Crillon paid many handsome compliments to the governor and garrison for their noble defence; declaring that he had exerted himself to the utmost of his abilities, and though he had not proved successful, yet he was happy in having his sovereign's approbation of his conduct.
The possession of Gibraltar is of very great importance consequence to Britain. It not only gives us command of the Straits, and their navigation; but affords refreshment and accommodation to our fleets in time of war, and to our merchantmen at all times; which, to a maritime power, is of very great advantage. From its situation, it divides both the kingdoms of France and Spain; that is, it hinders a ready communication by sea between the different parts of these kingdoms. This, of course, hinders the conjunction of their fleets and squadrons with each other, or at least renders it so difficult as to be a perpetual check upon these ambitious powers. It awes also the piratical states of Barbary, and in like manner the emperor of Morocco; insomuch, that our commerce is more safe than that of any other European power, which gives us great advantages in point of freight. It is otherwise highly favourable to our trade in the Mediterranean and Levant. It procures us the respect of the Italian and other powers; who, though far distant from Britain, must consider this as an instance of her power to hurt or afflit them. It also saves us the expense of squadrons or convoys, upon any disputes or disturbances that may happen among these powers, and which would otherwise be necessary for the protection of our navigation.
"The form of this mountain is (says Major Imrie) oblong; its summit a sharp craggy ridge; its direction is nearly from north to south; and its greatest length, in that direction, falls very little short of three miles. Its breadth varies with the indentations of the shore, but it nowhere exceeds three quarters of a mile. The line of its ridge is undulated, and the two extremes are somewhat higher than its centre.
"The summit of the Sugar Loaf, which is the point Natural of history." Gibraltar, of its greatest elevation towards the south, is 1439 feet; the Rock Mortar, which is the highest point to the north, is 1352; and the Signal Houg, which is nearly the central point between these two, is 1276 feet above the level of the sea. The western side of the mountain is a series of rugged slopes, interperforated with abrupt precipices. Its northern extremity is perfectly perpendicular, except towards the north-west, where what are called the Lines intervene, and a narrow passage of flat ground that leads to the isthmus, and is entirely covered with fortification. The eastern side of the mountain mostly consists of a range of precipices; but a bank of land, rising from the Mediterranean in a rapid acclivity, covers a third of its perpendicular height. Its southern extremity falls, in a rapid slope from the summit of the Sugar Loaf, into a rocky flat of considerable extent, called Windmill hill.
"The principal mass of the mountain rock consists of a gray, dense (what is generally called primary) marble; the different beds of which are to be examined in a face of 1350 feet of perpendicular height, which it presents to Spain in a conical form. These beds, or strata, are of various thicknesses, from 20 to upwards of 40 feet, dipping in a direction from east to west, nearly at an angle of 35 degrees. In some parts of the solid mass of this rock are found tectaceous bodies entirely transmuted into the constituent matter of the rock, and their interior hollows filled up with calcareous spar; but these do not occur often in its composition, and its beds are not separated by any intermediate strata.
"The caves of Gibraltar are many, and some of them of great extent. That which most deserves attention and examination is called St Michael's Cave, which is situated upon the southern part of the mountain, almost equally distant from the Signal Tower, and the Sugar Loaf. Its entrance is 1000 feet above the level of the sea: This entrance is formed by a rapid slope of earth, which has fallen into it at various periods, and which leads to a spacious hall, incrusted with spar, and apparently supported in the centre by a large maffy stalactitical pillar. To this succeeds a long series of caves of difficult access. In these cavernous recesses, the formation and process of stalactites is to be traced, from the flinty quilt-like cone, suspended from the roof, to the robust trunk of a pillar, three feet in diameter, which rises from the floor, and seems intended by Nature to support the roof from which it originated.
"The only inhabitants of these caves are bats, some of which are of a large size. The soil, in general, upon the mountain of Gibraltar is but thinly sown; and in many parts that thin covering has been washed off by the heavy autumnal rains, which have left the superficies of the rock, for a considerable extent, bare and open to inspection. In those situations, an observing eye may trace the effects of the flow, but constant, decomposition of the rock, caused by its exposure to the air, and the corrosion of sea-salts, which, in the heavy gales of easterly winds, are deposited with the spray on every part of the mountain. Those uncovered parts of the mountain rock also expose to the eye a phenomenon worthy of some attention, as it tends clearly to demonstrate, that, however high the surface of this rock may now be elevated above the level of the sea, it has once been the bed of agitated waters. This phenomenon is to be observed in many parts of the rock, and is constantly found in the beds of torrents. It consists of pot-like holes, of various sizes, hollowed out of the solid rock, and formed apparently by the attrition of gravel or pebbles, set in motion by the rapidity of rivers or currents in the sea.
"Upon the west side of the mountain, towards its base, some strata occur, which are heterogenous to the mountain rock: the first, or highest, forms the segment of a circle; its convex side is towards the mountain, and it slopes also in that direction. This stratum consists of a number of thin beds; the outward one, being the thinnest, is in a state of decomposition, and is mouldering down into a blackish brown or ferruginous coloured earth. The beds, interior to this, progressively increase in breadth to 17 inches, where the stratification rests upon a rock of an argillaceous nature.
"This last bed, which is 17 inches thick, consists of quartz of a blackish blue colour, in the lepta or cracks of which are found fine quartz crystals, colourless, and perfectly transparent. These crystals are composed of 18 planes, disposed in hexangular columns, terminated at both extremities by hexangular pyramids. The largest of those that Major Imrie saw did not exceed one-fourth of an inch in length: They, in general, adhere to the rock by the sides of the column, but are detached without difficulty. Their great degree of transparency has obtained them the name of Gibraltar diamonds.
"In the perpendicular fissures of the rock, and in some of the caverns of the mountain (all of which afford evident proofs of their former communication with the surface), a calcareous concretion is found, of a reddish brown ferruginous colour, with an earthy fracture, and considerable induration, including the bones of various animals, some of which have the appearance of being human. These bones are of various sizes, and lie in all directions, intermixed with shells of snails, fragments of the calcareous rock, and particles of spar; all of which materials are still to be seen in their natural uncombined states, partially scattered over the surface of the mountain. These have been swept, by heavy rains at different periods, from the surface into the situations above described, and having remained for a long series of years in those places of rest, exposed to the permeating action of water, have become enveloped in, and cemented by, the calcareous matter which it deposits.
"The bones, in this composition, have not the smallest appearance of being petrified; and if they have undergone any change, it is more like that of calcination than that of petrification, as the most solid parts of them generally admit of being cut and scraped down with the same ease as chalk.
"Bones combined in such concretions are not peculiar to Gibraltar: they are found in such large quantities in the country of Dalmatia and upon its coasts, in the islands of Cherfo and Ofiro, that some naturalists have been induced to go so far as to assert, that there has been a regular stratum of such matter in that country, and that its present broken and interrupted appearance has been caused by earthquakes, or other convulsions, experienced in that part of the globe. But, of late years, a traveller (Abbé Alberto Fortis) has given a minute description of the concretion in which the bones are found in that country: And by his account it appears, that with regard to situation, composition, and Gibraltar. colour, it is perfectly similar to that found at Gibraltar. By his description, it also appears that the two mountain rocks of Gibraltar and Dalmatia consist of the same species of calcareous stone; from which it is to be presumed, that the concretions in both have been formed in the same manner and about the same periods.
"Perhaps if the fissures and caves of the rocks of Dalmatia were still more minutely examined, their former communications with the surface might yet be traced, as in those described above; and, in that case, there would be at least a strong probability, that the materials of the concretions of that country have been brought together by the same accidental cause which has probably collected those found in the caverns of Gibraltar. Major Imrie traced, in Gibraltar, this concretion, from the lowest part of a deep perpendicular fissure, up to the surface of the mountain. As it approached to the surface, the concretion became less firmly combined, and, when it had no covering of the calcareous rock, a small degree of adhesion only remained, which was evidently produced by the argillaceous earth, in its composition, having been moistened by rain and baked by the sun.
"The depth at which these materials had been penetrated by that proportion of stalactitical matter, capable of giving to the concretion its greatest adhesion and solidity, he found to vary according to its situation, and to the quantity of matter to be combined. In fissures, narrow and contracted, he found the concretion possessing a great degree of hardness at six feet from the surface; but in other situations, more extended, and where a larger quantity of the materials had been accumulated, he found it had not gained its greatest degree of adhesion at double that depth. In one of the caves, where the mass of concretion is of considerable size, he perceived it to be divided into different beds, each bed being covered with a crust of the stalactitical spar, from one inch to an inch and a half in thickness, which seems to indicate, that the materials have been carried in at various periods, and that those periods have been very remote from each other.
"At Rota bay, upon the west side of Gibraltar, this concretion is found in what has evidently been a cavern, originally formed by huge unshapely masses of the rock which have tumbled in together. The fissure, or cavern, formed by the disruption and subsidence of those masses, has been entirely filled up with the concretion, and is now exposed to full view by the outward walls having dropped down in consequence of the encroachments of the sea. It is to this spot that strangers are generally led to examine the phenomenon; and the composition, having here attained to its greatest degree of hardness and solidity, the hasty observer, seeing the bones inclosed in what has so little the appearance of having been a vacuum, examines no further, but immediately adopts the idea of their being incased in the solid rock. The communication from this former chasm, to the surface from which it has received the materials of the concretion, is still to be traced in the face of the rock, but its opening is at present covered by the base of the line wall of the garrison. Here bones are found that are apparently human; and those of them that appear to be of the legs, arms, and vertebrae of the back, are scattered among others of various kinds and sizes, even down to the smallest bones of small birds. Major Imrie found here the complete jaw-bone of a sheep; it Gibraltar contained its full complement of teeth, the enamel of which was perfect, and its whiteness and lustre in no degree impaired. In the hollow parts of some of the large bones was contained a minute crystallization of pure and colourless calcareous spar; but, in most, the interior part consisted of a sparry crust of a reddish colour, scarcely in any degree transparent.
"At the northern extremity of the mountain, the concretion is generally found in perpendicular fissures. The miners there employed upon the fortifications, in excavating one of those fissures, found, at a great depth from the surface, two skulls, which were supposed to be human; but, to the Major, one of them, if not both, appeared to be too small for the human species. The bone of each was perfectly firm and solid; from which it is to be presumed, that they were in a state of maturity before they were inclosed in the concretion. Had they appertained to very young children, perhaps the bone would have been more porous, and of a less firm texture. The probability is, that they belonged to a species of monkey, which still continues to inhabit, in considerable numbers, those parts of the rock which are to us inaccessible.
"This concretion varies, in its composition, according to the situation in which it is found. At the extremity of Prince's Lines, high in the rock which looks towards Spain, it is found to consist only of a reddish calcareous earth, and the bones of small birds cemented thereby. The rock around this spot is inhabited by a number of hawks, that, in the breeding season, settle here and rear their young; the bones in this concretion are probably the remains of the food of those birds. At the base of the rock, below King's Lines, the concretion consists of pebbles of the prevailing calcareous rock. In this concretion, at a very considerable depth under the surface, was found the under parts of a glass* Phil. bottle, uncommonly shaped, and of great thickness; the colour of the glass was of a dark green*."
"The subterranean galleries are very extensive, Subterranean and at various degrees of elevation; all of them have a communication with each other, either by flights of steps cut in the rock, or by wooden stairs where the passageways are required to be very perpendicular.
"The sentinels may now be relieved during a siege from one post to another in perfect safety; whereas, previously to the constructing of these galleries a vast number of men were killed by the Spaniards while marching to their several stations. The width of these galleries is about twelve feet, their height about fourteen. The rock is broken through in various places, both for the purpose of giving light and for placing the guns to bear on the enemy. In different parts there are spacious recesses, capable of accommodating a considerable number of men. To these recesses they give names, such as St Patrick's Chamber, St George's Hall, &c. The whole of these singular structures have been formed out of the solid rock by blasting with gunpowder. Through the politeness of an officer on duty, a place called Smart's Reservoir was opened for our inspection, which is a great curiosity, and not generally permitted to be shewn. It is a spring at a considerable depth in the body of the rock, and is above 700 feet above the level of the sea; we defended into the cavern that contains GIB Gibraltar, tains it by a rope ladder, and with the aid of lighted candles proceeded through a narrow passage over crystalized protuberances of the rock till we came to a hollow, which appears to have been opened by some convulsion of nature. Here, from a bed of gems, arises the salutary fountain, clear as the brilliant of the east, and cold as the icicle. We hailed the nymph of the grot, and, after protracting ourselves, quaffed hygean nectar from her sparry urn. When restored to the light of day, we obtained, through the medium of the same gentleman, the key of St George's Hall, at which we arrived by a very intricate and gloomy path to the spacious excavation, which is upwards of a hundred feet in length, its height nearly the same. It is formed in a semicircular part of the rock; spacious apertures are broken through, where cannons of a very large calibre command the isthmus, the Spanish lines, and a great part of the bay. The top of the rock is pierced through, so as to introduce sufficient light to enable you to view every part of it. It appears almost incredible that so large an excavation could be formed by gunpowder, without blowing up the whole of that part of the rock, and still more so, that they should be able to direct the operations of such an instrument, so as to render it subservient to the purpose of elegance. We found in the hall a table, placed, I suppose, for the convenience of those who are traversing the rock. The cloth was spread, the wine went round, and we made the vaulted roof resound with the accents of mirth and the songs of conviviality.*
* Month. Mag. 1793.