Or, The Art of Riding, and of Training and Managing, Horses.

SECT. I. The Method of preparing Horses to be mounted.

THOUGH all horses are generally bought at an age when they have already been backed, they should be begun and prepared for the rider with the same care, gentleness, and caution, as if they had never been handled or backed, in order to prevent accidents, which might else arise from skittishness or other causes: and as it is proper that they should be taught the figure of the ground they are to go upon when they are at first mounted, they should be previously trotted in a longe on circles, without any one upon them.

The manner of doing this is as follows: Put an easy bridle of Pribroke's cavesson upon the horse's nose, and make him go forwards round you, standing quiet and holding the longe; and let another man, if you find it necessary, follow him with a whip. All this must be done very gently, and but a little at a time: for more horses are spoiled by overmuch work, than by any other treatment whatever; and that by very contrary effects: for sometimes it drives them into vice, madness, and despair, and often stupifies and totally dispirits them.

The first obedience required in a horse is going forwards; till he perform this duty freely, never even think of making him rein back, which would inevitably make him restive: as soon as he goes forwards readily, stop and cares him. You must remember in this, and likewise in every other exercise, to use him to go equally well to the right and left; and when he obeys, cares him and dismisses him immediately. If a horse that is very young takes fright and stands still, lead on another horse before him, which probably will induce him instantly to follow. Put a snaffle in his mouth; and when he goes freely, saddle him, girtting him at first very loose. Let the cord, which you hold, be long and loose; but not so much so as to endanger the horse's entangling his legs in it. It must be observed, that small circles, in the beginning, would constrain the horse too much, and put him upon defending himself. No bend must be required at first; never suffer him to gallop false; but whenever he attempts it, stop him without delay, and then set him off afresh. If he gallops of his own accord, and true, permit him to continue it; but if he does it not voluntarily, do not demand it of him at first. Should he fly and jump, shake the cord gently upon his nose without jerking it, and he will fall into his trot again. If he stands still, plunges, or rears, let the man who holds the whip make a noise with it; but never touch him till it be absolutely necessary to make him go on. When you change hands, stop and cares him, and entice him by fair means to come up to you; for by presenting yourself, as some do, on a sudden before horses, and frightening them to the other side, you run a great risk of giving them a flyness. If he keeps his head concerning too low, shake the cavesson to make him raise it; both Rider and in whatever the horse does, whether he walks, trots, or gallops, let it be a constant rule that the motion be determined, and really such as is intended, without the least shuffling, pacing, or any other irregular gait.

SECT. II. The Method of placing the Rider and rendering him firm on Horseback, with some occasional Instructions for Riders and the Horses.

It is necessary that the greatest attention, and the same gentleness that is used in teaching the horses, be observed likewise in teaching the rider, especially at the beginning. Every method and art must be practised to create and preserve, both in man and horse, all possible feeling and sensibility; contrary to the usage of most riding-masters, who seem industriously to labour at abolishing these principles both in the one and the other. As so many essential points depend upon the manner in which a man is at first placed on horseback, it ought to be considered and attended to with the strictest care and exactness.

The absurdity of putting a man, who perhaps has never before been upon a horse, on a rough trotting horse, on which he is obliged to stick with all the force of his arms and legs, is too obvious to need mentioning. This rough work, all at once, is plainly as detrimental at first, as it is excellent afterwards in proper time. No man can be either well or firmly seated on horseback, unless he be master of the balance of his body, quite unconstrained, with a full possession of himself, and at his ease; none of which requisites can he enjoy, if his attention be otherwise engaged; as it must wholly be in a raw, unsupplied, and unprepared lad, who is put at once upon a rough horse; in such a diftrestful state, he is forced to keep himself on at any rate, by holding to the bridle (at the expense of the sensibility both of his own hand and the horse's mouth), and by clinging with his legs, in danger of his life, and to the certain deprivation of a right feeling in the horse.

The first time a man is put on horseback, it ought to be upon a very gentle one. He never should be made to trot, till he is quite easy in the walk; nor gallop, till he is able to trot properly. The same must be observed in regard to horses; they should never be made to trot till they are obedient, and their mouths are well formed on a walk, nor be made to gallop, till the same be effected on a trot. When he is arrived at such a degree of firmness in his seat, the more he trots, and the more he rides rough horses, the better. This is not only the best method, but also the easiest and the shortest: by it a man is soon made sufficiently Instructions ciently a horseman for a soldier: but by the other concerning detestable methods that are commonly used, a man, both Riders, instead of improving, contracts all sorts of bad habits, and Horfes, and rides worse and worse every day; the horfe too becomes daily more and more unfit for ufe. In proceeding according to the manner propofed, a man is rendered firm and eafy upon the horfe, both his own and the horfe's fenibility is preferved, and each in a fuituation fit to receive and praftice all lefsons effectually.

Among the various methods that are ufed of placing people on horfeback, few are directed by reafon. Before you let the man mount, teach him to know, and always to examine, if the curb be well placed, (that is, when the horfe has a bit in his mouth, which at firft he fhould not, but only a snaffle, till the rider is firm in his seat, and the horfe alfo fomewhat taught): likewife to know if the nofe-band be properly tight; the throat-band loofefh; and the mouth-piece neither too high nor too low in the horfe's mouth, but right-ly put, fo as not to wrinkle the skin nor to hang lax; the girts drawn moderately, but not too tight; and the crupper and the breafh-plate properly adjufed. A very good and careful hand may venture on a bit at firft, and fucceed with it full as well as by beginning with a snaffle alone: only colts, indeed, it is better, in all schools whatfoever, to avoid any preffure on the bars juft at firft, which a curb, though ever fo delicately ufed, muft in fome degree occasion. When the bridle, &c. have been well looked to, let the man approach the horfe gently near the shoulder; then taking the reins and a handful of the main in his left hand, let him put his foot softly in the left stirrup, by pulling it towards him, left he touch the horfe with his toe; then rafing himfelf up, let him reft a moment on it with his body upright, but not stiff; and after that, pafling his right leg clear over the saddle without rubbing againft any thing, let him feat himfelf gently down. He muft be cautions not to take the reins too fhort, for fear of making the horfe rear, run, or fall back, or throw up his head; but let him hold them of an equal length, neither tight nor flack, and with the little finger betwixt them. It is fit that horfes fhould be accuftomed to ftand ftill to be mounted, and not to stir till the rider pleafes. All foldiers fhould be in- structed to mount and difmount equally well on both fides, which may be of great ufe in times of hurry and confufion. Then place the man in his faddle, with his body rather back, and his head held up with eafe, without stiffness; feated neither forwards, nor very far backwards; with the breafh pushed out a little, and the lower part of the body likewife a little forwards; the thighs and legs turned in without conftraint, and the feet in a straight line, neither turned in nor out. By this poftion, the natural weight of the thighs has a proper and fufficient preffure of itfelf, and the legs are in readinefs to act when called upon; they muft hang down eafy and naturally; and be fo placed, as not to be wriggling about, touching, and tickling, the horfe's fides, but always near them in cafe they fhould be wanted, as well as the heels.

The body muft be carefully kept eafy and firm, and without any rocking when in motion; which is a bad habit very eafily contracted, efpecially in galloping. The left elbow muft be gently leant againft the body, a little forwards; unlefs it be fo refled, the hand can not be steady, but will always be checking, and confe- quently have pernicious effects on the horfe's mouth, both R. And the hand ought to be of equal height with the elbow; if it were lower, it would conftrain and confine the motion of the horfe's shoulders; but, as the mouths of horfes are different, the place of the hand allo muft occasionally differ: a leaning, low, heavy, fore-hand, requires a high hand; and a horfe that pokes out his nofe, a low one. The right-hand arm muft be placed in symmetry with the left; only let the right hand be a little more forward or backward, higher or lower, as occasion may require, in order that both hands may be free; both arms muft be a little bent at the elbow, to prevent stiffness.

A foldier's right hand fhould be kept unemployed in riding; it carries the sword, which is fufficient bufiness for it.

There remains one farther obfervation, that ought not to be omitted, about the hand, that it muft be kept clear of the body; i.e. about two inches and a half forwards from it, with the nails turned oppofite to the belly, and the wrist a little rounded with eafe; a poftion not lefs graceful than ready for flackening, tightening, and moving the reins from one fide to the other, as may be found neceffary.

When the men are well placed, the more rough trotting they have without stirrups the better; but with a strict care always, that their poftion be pre- served very exactly. In all cafes, great care muft be taken to hinder their clinging with their legs; in horfet, no flogging by hands or legs is ever to be al- lowed of at any time. If the motion of the horfe be too rough, flacken it, till the rider grows by degrees more firm; and when he is quite firm and eafy on his horfe in every kind of motion, stirrups may be given him; but he muft never leave off trotting often without any.

The stirrups muft be neither fhort nor long; but of fuch a length, that when the rider, being well placed, puts his feet into them (about one-third of the length of each foot from the point of it), the points may be between two and three inches higher than the heels. The rider muft not bear upon his stirrups, but only let the natural weight of his legs reft on them: For if he bears upon them he would be raised above and out of his saddle; which he fhould never be, except in charging fword in hand, with the body inclined for- wards at the very instant of attacking. Spurs may be given as foon as the rider is grown familiar with stirrups; or even long before, if his legs are well pla- ced.

A hand fhould always be firm, but delicate: a horfe's mouth fhould never be furprifed by any sudden tranflation of it, either from flack to tight, or from tight to flack. Every thing in horfemanfhip muft be effected by degrees, but at the fame time with spirit and refolution. The hand which by giving and ta- king properly, gains its point with the leaft force, is the best; and the horfe's mouth, under this fame hand's directions, will alfo consequently be the beft, fuppofing equal advantages in both from nature. This principle of gentlenefs fhould be obferved upon all oc- casions in every branch of horfemanfhip. Sometimes the right hand may be neceffary, upon fome trouble- The snaffle must on all occasions be uppermost; that is to say, the reins of it must be above those of the bridle, whether the snaffle or the bit be used separately, or whether they be both used together. When the rider knows enough, and the horse is sufficiently prepared and settled to begin any work towards suppling, one rein must be shortened according to the side worked to; but it must never be so much shortened, as to make the whole strength rest on that rein alone: for, not to mention that the work would be false and bad, one side of the horse's mouth would by that means be always deadened; whereas, on the contrary, it should always be kept fresh by its own play, and by the help of the opposite rein's acting delicately in a somewhat smaller degree of tension; the joint effect of which produces in a horse's mouth the proper, gentle, and easy, degree of appui or bearing.

A coward and a madman make alike bad riders, and are both alike discovered and confounded by the superior sense of the creature they are mounted upon, who is equally spoilt by both, though in very different ways. The coward, by suffering the animal to have his own way, not only confirms him in his bad habits, but creates new ones in him: and the madman, by false and violent motions and corrections, drives the horse, through despair, into every bad and vicious trick that rage can suggest.

It is very requisite in horsemanship, that the hand and legs should act in correspondence with each other in every thing; the latter always subservient and assistant to the former. Upon circles, in walking, trotting, or galloping, the outward leg is the only one to be used, and that only for a moment at a time, in order to set off the horse true, or put him right if he be false; and as soon as that is done, it must be taken away again immediately: but if the horse be lazy, or otherwise retains himself, both legs must be used and pressed to his sides at the same time together. The less the legs are used in general, the better. Very delicate good riders, with horses they have dressed themselves, will scarcely ever want their help. By the term outward is understood the side which is more remote from the centre; and by inward is meant the side next to the centre. In reining back, the rider should be careful not to use his legs, unless the horse backeth on his shoulders; in which case they must be both applied gently at the same time, and correspond with the hand. If the horse refuse to back at all, the rider's legs must be gently approached, till the horse lifts up a leg, as if to go forwards; at which time, when that leg is in the air, the rein of the same side with that leg which is lifted up will easily bring that same leg backwards, and accordingly oblige the horse to back; but if the horse offers to rear, the legs must be instantly removed away. The inward rein must be tighter on circles, so that the horse may bend and look inwards; and the outward one crossed over a little towards it; and both held in the left hand.

Let the man and horse begin on very slow motions, that they may have time to understand and reflect on what is taught them; and in proportion as the effects of the reins are better comprehended, and the manner of working becomes more familiar, the quickness of motion must be increased. Every rider must learn to feel, without the help of the eye, when a horse goes false, and remedy the fault accordingly: this is an intelligence, which nothing but practice, application, and attention, can give, in the beginning on slow motions. A horse may not only gallop false, but also trot and walk false. If a horse gallops false, that is to say, if going to the right he leads with the left leg, or if going to the left he leads with the right; or in case he is disunited, i.e. if he leads with the opposite leg behind to that which he leads with before; stop him immediately, and put him off again properly. The method of effecting this, is by approaching your outward leg, and putting your hand outwards; still keeping the inward rein the shorter, and the horse's head inwards, if possible; and if he should still resist, then bend and pull his head outwards also; but replace it again, bent properly inwards, the moment he goes off true. A horse is said to be disunited to the right, when going to the right, and consequently leading with the right leg before, he leads with the left behind; and is said to be disunited to the left, when going to the left, and consequently leading with the left leg before, he leads with the right behind. A horse may at the same time be both false and disunited; in correcting both which faults, the same method must be used. He is both false and disunited to the right, when in going to the right he leads with the left leg before, and the right behind; notwithstanding that hinder leg be with propriety more forward under his belly than the left, because the horse is working to the right: And he is false and disunited to the left, when in going to the left he leads with the right leg before and the left behind; notwithstanding, as above, that hinder leg be with propriety more forward under his belly than the right, because the horse is working to the left.

In teaching men a right seat on horseback, the greatest attention must be given to prevent stiffness, and sticking by force in any manner upon any occasion: stiffness disgraces every right work; and sticking serves only to throw a man (when displaced) a great distance from his horse by the spring he must go off with: whereas by a proper equilibrating position of the body, and by the natural weight only of the thighs, he cannot but be firm and secure in his seat.

As the men become more firm, and the horses more supple, it is proper to make the circles less, but not too much so, for fear of throwing the horses forwards upon their shoulders.

Some horses, when first the bit is put into their mouths, if great care be not taken, will put their heads very low. With such horses, raise your right hand with the bridoon in it, and play at the same time with the bit in the left hand, giving and taking.

On circles, the rider must lean his body inwards; unless great attention be given to make him do it, he will be perpetually losing his seat outwards. It is scarce possible for him to be displaced, if he leans his body properly inwards. Sect. III. The Method of Suppling Horses with Men upon them, by the EPAULE en dedans, &c. with and without a Longe, on Circles and on straight Lines.

When a horse is well prepared and settled in all his motions, and the rider firm, it will be proper then to proceed on towards a farther suppling and teaching of both.

In setting out upon this new work, begin by bringing the horse's head a little more inwards than before, pulling the inward rein gently to you by degrees. When this is done, try to gain a little on the shoulders, by keeping the inward rein the shorter, as before, and the outward one crossed over towards the inward one. The intention of these operations is this: The inward rein serves to bring in the head, and procures the bend; whilst the outward one, that is a little crossed, tends to make that bend perpendicular and as it should be, that is to say, to reduce the nose and the forehead to be in a perpendicular line with each other: it also serves, if put forwards, as well as also crossed, to put the horse forwards, if found necessary; which is often requisite, many horses being apt in this and other works rather to lose their ground backwards than otherwise, when they should rather advance; if the nose were drawn in towards the breast beyond the perpendicular, it would confine the motion of the shoulders, and have other bad effects. All other bends, besides what are above specified, are false. The outward rein, being crossed, not in a forward sense, but rather a little backwards, serves also to prevent the outward shoulder from getting too forwards, and makes it approach the inward one; which facilitates the inward leg's crossing over the outward one, which is the motion that so admirably supplies the shoulders. Care must be taken, that the inward leg passes over the outward one, without touching it: this inward leg's crossing over must be helped also by the inward rein, which you must cross towards and over the outward rein every time the outward leg comes to the ground, in order to lift and help the inward leg over it: at any other time, but just when the outward leg comes to the ground, it would be wrong to cross the inward rein, or to attempt to lift up the inward leg by it; nay, it would be demanding an absolute impossibility, and lugging about the reins and horse to no purpose: because in this case, a very great part of the horse's weight resting then upon that leg, would render such an attempt not only fruitless, but also prejudicial to the sensibility of the mouth, and probably oblige him to defend himself; and, moreover, it would put the horse under a necessity of straddling before, and also of leading with the wrong leg, without being productive of any suppling motion whatsoever.

When the horse is thus far familiarly accustomed to what you have required of him, then proceed to effect by degrees the same crossing in his hinder legs. By bringing in the fore legs more, you will of course engage the hinder ones in the same work; if they resist, the rider must bring both reins more inward: and, if necessary, put back also, and approach his inward leg to the horse; and if the horse throws out his croup too far, the rider must bring both reins outwards, and, if absolutely necessary, he must also make use of his out-ward leg, in order to replace the horse properly: observing that the croup should always be considerably behind the shoulders, which in all actions must go first; and the moment that the horse obeys, the rider must put his hand and leg again in their usual position.

Nothing is more ungraceful in itself, more detrimental to a man's seat, or more destructive of the sensibility of a horse's sides, than a continual wriggling unsettledness in a horseman's legs, which prevents the horse from ever going a moment together true, steady, or determined.

A horse should never be turned, without first moving a step forwards: and when it is doing, the rider must not lift his elbow, and displace himself; a motion only of the hand from the one side to the other being sufficient for that purpose. It must also be a constant rule, never to suffer a horse to be stopped, mounted, or dismounted, but when he is well placed. The slower the motions are when a man or horse is taught any thing, the better.

At first, the figures worked upon must be great, and afterwards made less by degrees, according to the improvement which the man and horse make; and the cadenced pace also, which they work in, must be accordingly augmented. The changes from one side to the other must be in a bold determined trot, and at first quite straight forwards, without demanding any side-motion on two pîles, which is very necessary to require afterwards when the horse is sufficiently supplied. By two pîles is meant, when the fore parts and hinder parts do not follow, but describe two different lines.

In the beginning, a longe is used on circles, and also on straight lines, to help both the rider and the horse; but afterwards, when they are grown more intelligent, they should go alone. At the end of the lefson, rein back; then put the horse, by a little at a time, forwards, by approaching both legs gently to his sides, and playing with the bridle: if he rears, push him out immediately into a full trot. Shaking the cavesson on the horse's nose, and also putting one's self before him and rather near to him, will generally make him back, though he otherwise refuse to do it: and moreover a slight use and approaching of the rider's legs, will sometimes be necessary in backing, in order to prevent the horse from doing it too much upon his shoulders; but the pressure of the legs ought to be very small, and taken quite away the moment that he puts himself enough upon his haunches. If the horse does not back upon a straight line properly, the rider must not be permitted to have recourse immediately to his leg, and so distort himself by it; but first try, if crossing over his hand and reins to which ever side may be necessary, it will not be alone sufficient: which most frequently it will; if not, then employ the leg.

After a horse is well prepared and settled, and goes freely on in all his several paces, he ought to be in all his works kept, to a proper degree, upon his haunches, with his hinder legs well placed under him; whereby he will be always pleasant to himself and his rider, will be light in hand, and ready to execute whatever may be demanded of him, with facility, vigour, and quickness.

The common method that is used of forcing a horse sidewife, is a most glaring absurdity, and very hurtful to the animal in its consequences; for, instead of suppling him, it obliges him to stiffen and defend himself, and often makes a creature that is naturally benevolent, rellive, frightened, and vicious.

For horses who have very high and long fore-hands, and who poke out their noses, a running snaffle is of excellent use; but for such as bore and keep their heads low, a common one is preferable; though any horse's head indeed may be kept up alo with a running one, by the rider's keeping his hands very high and forwards: but whenever either is used alone without a bridle upon horses that carry their heads low and that bore, it must be sawed about from one side to the other.

This lesson of the epaule en dedans should be taught to such people as are likely to become useful in helping to teach men and to break horses; and the more of such that can be found the better; none others should ever be suffered upon any occasion to let their horses look any way besides the way they are going. But all horses whatever, as likewise all men who are designed for the teaching others, must go thoroughly and perfectly through this excellent lesson, under the directions of intelligent instructors, and often practise it too afterwards; and when that is done, proceed to and be finished by the lessons of head and tail to the wall.

SECT. IV. Of the Head to the Wall, and of the Croup to the Wall.

This lesson should be practised immediately after that of the epaule en dedans, in order to place the horse properly the way he goes, &c. The difference between the head to the wall, and the croup to the wall, consists in this: in the former, the fore-parts are more remote from the centre, and go over more ground; in the latter, the hinder parts are more remote from the centre, and consequently go over more ground: in both, as likewise in all other lessons, the shoulders must go first. In riding-horses, the head to the wall is the easier lesson of the two at first, the line to be worked upon being marked by the wall, not far from his head.

The motion of the legs to the right is the same as that of the epaule en dedans to the left, and to vice versa; but the head is always bent and turned differently: in the epaule en dedans, the horse looks the contrary way to that which he goes; in this, he looks the way he is going.

In the beginning, very little bend must be required: too much at once would astonish the horse, and make him defend himself: it is to be augmented by degrees. If the horse absolutely refuses to obey, it is a sign that either he or his rider has not been sufficiently prepared by previous lessons. It may happen that weakness or a hurt in some part of the body, or sometimes temper, though seldom, may be the cause of the horse's defending himself: it is the rider's business to find out from whence the obstacle arises; and if he finds it to be from the first-mentioned cause, the previous lessons must be resumed again for some time; if from the second, proper remedies must be applied; and if from the last cause, when all fair means that can be tried have failed, proper corrections with coolness and judge must be used.

In practising this lesson to the right, bend the horse to the right with the right rein; helping the left leg over the right (at the time when the right leg is just come to the ground), with the left rein crooked towards the right, and keeping the right shoulder back with the right rein towards your body, in order to facilitate the left leg's crossing over the right; and so likewise vice versa to the left, each rein helping the other by their properly mixed effects. In working to the right, the rider's left leg helps the hinder parts on to the right, and his right leg stops them if they get too forwards; and so vice versa to the left: but neither ought to be used, till the hand being employed in a proper manner has failed, or finds that a greater force is necessary to bring about what is required than it can effect alone: for the legs should not only be corresponding with, but also subservient to, the hand; and all unnecessary aids, as well as all force, ought always to be avoided as much as possible.

In the execution of all lessons, the equilibrium of the rider's body is of great use to the horse; it ought always to go with and accompany every motion of the animal; when to the right, to the right; and when to the left, to the left.

Upon all horses, in every lesson and action, it must be observed, that there is no horse but has his own peculiar appui or degree of bearing, and also a sensibility of mouth, as likewise a rate of his own, which it is absolutely necessary for the rider to discover and make himself acquainted with. A bad rider always takes off at least the delicacy of both, if not absolutely destroys it. The horse will inform his rider when he has got his proper bearing in the mouth, by playing pleasantly and readily with his bit, and by the spray about his chaps. A delicate and good hand will not only always preserve a light appui, or bearing, in its sensibility; but also of a heavy one, whether naturally fo or acquired, make a light one. The lighter this appui can be made, the better; provided that the rider's hand corresponds with it; if it does not, the more the horse is properly prepared, so much the worse. Instances of this inconvenience of the best of appuis, when the rider is not equally taught with the horse, may be seen every day in some gentlemen, who try to get their horses bitted as they call it, without being suitably prepared themselves for riding them: the consequence of which is, that they ride in danger of breaking their necks; till at length, after much hauling about, and by the joint insensibility and ignorance of themselves and their grooms, the poor animals gradually become mere senile-unfeeling poits; and thereby grow, what they call, settled. When the proper appui is found, and made of course as light as possible, it must not be kept duly fixed without variation, but be played with; otherwise one equally continued tension of reins would render both the rider's hand and the horse's mouth very dull. The slightest and frequent giving and taking is therefore necessary to keep both perfect.

Whatever pace or degree of quickness you work in, To make (be it ever so fast, or ever so slow), it must be cadedenced; time is as necessary for a horseman as for a musician.

This lesson of the head and of the tail to the wall, must be taught every soldier: scarce any manœuvre can be well performed without it. In closing and opening of files, it is almost every moment wanted.

SECT. V. The Method of making Horses stand Fire, Noises, Alarms, Sights, &c.

In order to make horses stand fire, the sound of drums, and all sorts of different noises, you must use them to it by degrees in the stable at feeding time; and instead of being frightened at it, they will soon come to like it as a signal for eating.

With regard to such horses as are afraid of burning objects, begin by keeping them still at a certain distance from some lighted straw; carets the horse; and in proportion as his fright diminishes, approach gradually the burning straw very gently, and increase the size of it. By this means he will very quickly be brought to be so familiar with it, as to walk undaunted even through it.

As to horses that are apt to lie down in the water, if animating them, and attacking them vigorously, should fail of the desired effect, then break a straw-bottle full of water upon their heads, and let the water run into their ears, which is a thing they apprehend very much.

All troop-horses must be taught to stand quiet and still when they are shot off from, to stop the moment you present, and not to move after firing till they are required to do it; this lesson ought especially to be observed in light troops: in short, the horses must be taught to be so cool and undisturbed, as to suffer the rider to act upon him with the same freedom as if he was on foot. Patience, coolness, and temper, are the only means requisite for accomplishing this end. Begin by walking the horse gently, then stop and keep him from stirring for some time, so as to accustom him by degrees not to have the least idea of moving without orders: if he does, then back him; and when you stop him, and he is quite still, leave the reins quite loose.

To use a horse to fire-arms, first put a pistol or a carbine in the manger with his feed: then use him to the sound of the lock and the pan; after which, when you are upon him, show the piece to him, presenting it forwards, sometimes on one side, sometimes on the other: when he is thus far reconciled, proceed to flash in the pan; after which, put a small charge into the piece, and so continue augmenting it by degrees to the quantity which is commonly used: if he seems uneasy, walk him forward a few steps slowly; and then stop, back, and carets him. Horses are often also disquieted and unsteady at the clash, and drawing, and returning of swords; all which they must be familiarized to by little and little, by frequency and gentleness.

It is very expedient for all cavalry in general, but particularly for light cavalry, that their horses should be very ready and expert in leaping over ditches, hedges, gates, &c. The leaps, of whatever sort they are, which the horses are brought to in the beginning, ought to be very small ones; the riders must keep their bodies of Reining back, raise their hands a little in order to help the Back, &c fore-parts of the horse up, and be very attentive to their equilibrium. It is best to begin at a low bar covered with furze, which pricking the horse's legs, if he does not raise himself sufficiently, prevents his contracting a sluggish and dangerous habit of touching, as he goes over, which any thing yielding and not pricking would give him a custom of doing. Let the ditches you first bring horses to be narrow; and in this, as in every thing else, let the increase be made by degrees. Accustom them to come up to every thing which they are to leap over, and to stand coolly at it for some time; and then to raise themselves gently up in order to form to themselves an idea of the distance. When they leap well standing, then use them to walk gently up to the leap, and to go over it without first halting at it; and after that practice is familiar to them, repeat the like in a gentle trot, and so by degrees faster and faster, till at length it is as familiar to them to leap flying on a full gallop as any other way: all which is to be acquired with great facility by calm and soft means, without any hurry.

As horses are naturally apt to be frightened at the sight and smell of dead horses, it is advisable to habituate them to walk over and leap over carcases of dead horses: and as they are particularly terrified at this sight, the greater gentlenes ought consequently to be used.

Horses should also be accustomed to swim, which often may be necessary upon service; and if the men and horses both are not used to it, both may be frequently liable to perish in the water. A very small portion of strength is sufficient to guide a horse, anywhere indeed, but particularly in the water, where they must be permitted to have their heads, and be no-ways constrained in any shape.

The unreasonable rage in Britain of cutting off all extremities from horses, is in all cases a very pernicious custom. It is particularly so in regard to a trooper-horse's tail. It is almost incredible, how much they suffer at the picket for want of it: constantly fretting, and weating, kicking about and laming one another, tormented, and flung off their meat, miserable, and helpless; while other horses, with their tails on, brush off all flies, are cool and at their ease, and mend daily; whilst the docked ones grow every hour more and more out of condition.

SECT. VI. The Method of reining back,—and of moving forwards immediately after:—of Piafing,—of Pillars, &c.

NEVER finish your work by reining back with horses that have any disposition towards retaining themselves; but always move them forwards, and a little upon the haunches also, after it, before you dismount, (unless they retain themselves very much indeed, in which case nothing at all must be demanded from the haunches). This lesson of reining back, and piafing, is excellent to conclude with, and puts a horse well and properly upon the haunches: It may be done, according as horses are more or less supplied, either going forwards, backing, or in the same place: if it is done well advancing, or at most on the same spot, it is fully sufficient for a fol- dier's during dier's horse: For to piafe in backing, is rather too much to be expected in the hurry which cannot but attend such numbers both of men and horses as must be taught together in regiments. This lesson must never be attempted at all, till horses are very well suppled, and somewhat accustomed to be put together; otherwise it will have very bad consequences, and create restiveness. If they refuse to back, and stand motionless, the rider's legs must approach with the greatest gentleness to the horse's sides; at the same time that the hand is acting on the reins to solicit the horse's backing. This seldom fails of procuring the desired effect, by raising one of the horse's fore-legs, which being in the air, has no weight upon it, and is consequently very easily brought backwards by a small degree of tension in the reins. When this lesson is well performed, it is very noble and useful, and has a pleasing air; it is an excellent one to begin teaching scholars with.

The lesson is particularly serviceable in the pillars, for placing scholars well at first. Very few regimental riding-houses have pillars, and it is fortunate they have not; for though, when properly made use of with skill, they are one of the greatest and best discoveries in horsemanship; they must be allowed to be very dangerous and pernicious, when they are not under the direction of a very knowing person.

SECT. VII. The Method of curing Restiveness, Vices, Defences, Starting, &c.

WHENEVER a horse makes resistance, one ought, before remedy or correction is thought of, to examine very minutely all the tackle about him, if any thing hurts or tickles him, whether he has any natural or accidental weakness, or in short any the least impediment in any part. For want of this precaution, many fatal disasters happen: the poor dumb animal is frequently accused falsely of being restive and vicious; is used ill without reason; and, being forced into despair, is in a manner obliged to act accordingly, be his temper and inclination ever so well disposed. It is very seldom the case, that a horse is really and by nature vicious; but if such be found, he will despise all carelessness, and then chastisements become necessary.

Correction, according as you use it, throws a horse into more or less violent action, which, if he be weak, he cannot support: but a vicious strong horse is to be considered in a very different light, being able both to undergo and consequently to profit by all lessons; and is far preferable to the best natured weak one upon earth. Patience and attention are never failing means to reclaim such a horse: in whatsoever manner he defends himself, bring him back frequently with gentleness (not however without having given him proper chastisement if necessary) to the lesson which he seems most averse to. Horses are by degrees made obedient, through the hope of recompense and the fear of punishment: how to mix these two motives judiciously together, is a very difficult matter; it requires much thought and practice; and not only a good head, but a good heart likewise. The coolest and best natured rider will always succeed best. By a dexterous use of the incitements above mentioned, you will gradually bring the horse to temper and obedience; mere force, and want of skill and coolness, would only tend to confirm him in bad tricks. If he be impatient or choleric, never strike him, unless he absolutely refuse to go forward; which you must resolutely oblige him to do, and which will be of itself a correction, by preventing his having time to meditate and put in execution any defence by retaining himself. Restlessness in horses, you must consider, is sometimes a mark of strength and vigour, and proceeds from spirit, as well as sometimes from vice and weakness. Weakness frequently drives horses into viciousness, when any thing wherein strength is necessary is demanded from them; nay, it inevitably must: great care therefore should always be taken to distinguish from which of these two causes any remedy or punishment is thought of. It may sometimes be a bad sign when horses do not at all defend themselves, and proceed from a flippish disposition, a want of spirit, and of a proper sensibility. Whenever one is so fortunate as to meet with a horse of just the right spirit, activity, delicacy of feeling, with strength and good nature, he cannot be cherished too much; for such a one is a rare and invaluable jewel, and, if properly treated, will in a manner do everything of himself. Horses are oftener spoilt by having too much done to them, and by attempts to dress them in too great an hurry, than by any other treatment.

If after a horse has been well suppled, and there are no impediments, either natural or accidental, if he still persist to defend himself, chastisements then become necessary: but whenever this is the case, they must not be frequent but always firm, though always as little violent as possible; for they are both dangerous and very prejudicial when frequently or slightly played with, and fill more so when used too violently.

It is impossible, in general, to be too circumpect in lessons of all kinds, in aids, chastisements, or carelessness. Some have quicker parts, and more cunning, than others. Many will imperceptibly gain a little every day on the rider. Various, in short, are their dispositions and capacities. It is the rider's business to find out their different qualities, and to make them sensible how much he loves them, and desires to be loved by them; but at the same time that he does not fear them, and will be master.

Plunging is a very common defence among restive and vicious horses: if they do it in the same place, or backing, they must, by the rider's legs and spurs firmly applied, be obliged to go forwards, and their heads kept up high. But if they do it flying forwards, keep them back, and ride them gently and very slow for a good while together. Of all bad tempers and qualities in horses, those which are occasioned by harsh treatment and ignorant riders are the worst.

Rearing is a bad vice, and, in weak horses especially, a very dangerous one. Whilst the horse is up, the rider must yield his hand; and when the horse is descending, he must vigorously determine him forwards; if this be done at any other time but whilst the horse is coming down, it may add a spring to his rearing, and make him fall backwards. With a good hand on them, horses seldom persist in this vice; for they are themselves naturally much afraid of falling backwards. If this method fails, you must make the horse kick up behind, by getting somebody on foot to strike him behind with a whip; or, if that will not effect it, by pricking him with a goad.

Starting often proceeds from a defect in the sight; which therefore must be carefully looked into. Whatever the horse is afraid of, bring him up to it gently; if you scare him every step he advances, he will go quite up to it by degrees, and soon grow familiar with all sorts of objects. Nothing but great gentleness can correct this fault; for if you inflict punishment, the apprehension of chastisement becomes prevalent, and causes more starting than the fear of the object. If you let him go by the object, without bringing him up to it, you increase the fault, and confirm him in his fear: the consequence of which is, he takes his rider perhaps a quite contrary way from what he was going, becomes his master, and puts himself and the person upon him every moment in great danger.

With such horses as are to a very great degree fearful of any objects, make a quiet horse, by going before them, gradually entice them to approach nearer and nearer to the thing they are afraid of. If the horse, thus alarmed, be undisciplined and headstrong, he will probably run away with his rider; and if so, his head must be kept up high, and the snaffle sawed backwards and forwards from right to left, taking up and yielding the reins of it, as also the reins of the bit: but this latter must not be sawed backwards and forwards like the snaffle, but only taken up and yielded properly. No man ever yet did, or ever will stop a horse, or gain any one point over him, by main force, or by pulling a dead weight against him.

Sect. VIII. Rules for bad Horsemen.

In the first place, every horse should be accustomed to stand still when he is mounted. One would imagine this might be readily granted; yet we see how much the contrary is practised. When a gentleman mounts at a livery stable, the groom takes the horse by the bit, which he bends tight round his under jaw: the horse striving to go on, is forced back; advancing again, he frets, as he is again stopped short, and hurt by the manner of holding him. The rider, in the mean time, mounting without the bridle, or at least holding it but slightly, is helped to it by the groom, who being thoroughly employed by the horse's fluttering, has at the same time both bridle and stirrup to give. This confusion would be prevented, if every horse was taught to stand still when he is mounted. Forbid your groom, therefore, when he rides your horse to water, to throw himself over him from a horse-block, and kick him with his leg, even before he is fairly upon him. This wrong manner of mounting is what chiefly teaches your horse the vicious habit against which we are here warning. On the other hand, a constant practice of mounting in the proper manner, is all that is necessary to prevent a horse's going on till the rider is quite adjusted in the saddle.

The next thing necessary therefore is, that the rider should mount properly. The common method is to stand near the croup or hinder part of the horse, with the bridle held very long in the right hand. By this manner of holding the bridle before you mount, you are liable to be kicked; and when you are mounted, your horse may go on some time, or play what gambols he pleases, before the rein is short enough in your hand to prevent him. It is common likewise for an awkward rider, as soon as his foot is in the stirrup, to throw himself with all his force to gain his seat; which he cannot do, till he hath first overbalanced himself on one side or the other: he will then wriggle into it by degrees. The way to mount with ease and safety is, to stand rather before than behind the stirrup. In this posture take the bridle short, and the mane together in your left hand, helping yourself to the stirrup with your right, so that your toe may not touch the horse in mounting. While your left foot is in the stirrup, move on your right, till you face the side of the horse, looking across over the saddle. Then with your right hand grasp the hinder part of the saddle; and with that and your left, which holds the mane and bridle, lift yourself upright on your left foot. Remain thus a mere infant on your stirrup, only so as to divide the action into two motions. While you are in this posture, you have a sure hold with both hands, and are at liberty, either to get safely down, or to throw your leg over and gain your seat. By this deliberate motion, likewise, you avoid, what every good horseman would endeavour to avoid, putting your horse into a flutter.

When you dismount, hold the bridle and mane together in your left hand, as when you mounted; put your right hand on the pommel of the saddle, to raise yourself; throw your leg back over the horse, grasp the hinder part of the saddle with your right hand, remain a moment on your stirrup, and in every respect dismount as you mounted; only what was your first motion when you mounted, becomes the last in dismounting. Remember not to bend your right knee in dismounting, lest your spur should rub against the horse.

It may be next recommended to hold your bridle at a convenient length. Sit square, and let not the purchase of the bridle pull forward your shoulder; but keep your body even, as it would be if each hand held a rein. Hold your reins with the whole grasp of your hand, dividing them with your little finger. Let your hand be perpendicular; your thumb will then be uppermost, and placed on the bridle. Bend your wrist a little outward: and when you pull the bridle, raise your hand toward your breast, and the lower part of the palm rather more than the upper. Let the bridle be at such a length in your hand, as, if the horse should stumble, you may be able to raise his head, and support it by the strength of your arms, and the weight of your body thrown backward. If you hold the rein too long, you are subject to fall backward as your horse rises.

If, knowing your horse perfectly well, you think a tight rein unnecessary, advance your arm a little (but not your shoulder) towards the horse's head, and keep your usual length of rein. By this means, you have a check upon your horse, while you indulge him.

If you ride with a curb, make it a rule to hook on the chain yourself; the most quiet horse may bring his rider into danger, should the curb hurt him. If, in fixing the curb, you turn the chain to the right, the links will unfold themselves, and then oppose a farther turning. Put on the chain loose enough to hang down on the horse's under lip, so that it may not rise and press his jaw, till the reins of the bridle are moderately pulled.

If your horse has been used to stand still when he is mounted, there will be no occasion for a groom to hold him; but if he does, suffer him not to touch the reins, but that part of the bridle which comes down the cheek of the horse. He cannot then interfere with the management of the reins, which belongs to the rider only; and holding a horse by the curb (which is ever painful to him) is evidently improper when he is to stand still.

Another thing to be remembered is, not to ride with your arms and elbows as high as your shoulders; nor let them shake up and down with the motion of the horse. The posture is unbecoming, and the weight of the arms and of the body too if the rider does not sit still) acts in continual jerks on the jaw of the horse, which must give him pain, and make him unquiet, if he has a tender mouth or any spirit.

Bad riders wonder why horses are gentle as soon as they are mounted by skillful ones, though their skill seems unemployed: the reason is, the horse goes at his ease, yet finds all his motions watched; which he has sagacity enough to discover. Such a rider hides his whip, if he finds his horse is afraid of it; and keeps his legs from his sides, if he finds he dreads the spur.

Avoid the ungraceful custom of letting your legs shake against the sides of the horse: and as you are not to keep your arms and elbows high, and in motion; so you are not to rivet them to your sides, but let them fall easy. One may, at a distance, distinguish a genteel horseman from an awkward one: the first sits still, and appears of a piece with his horse; the latter seems flying off at all points.

It is often said with emphasis, that such a one has no seat on horseback; and it means, not only that he does not ride well, but that he does not sit on the right part of the horse. To have a good seat, is to fit on that part of the horse, which, as he springs, is the centre of motion; and from which, of course, any weight would be with most difficulty shaken. As in the rising and falling of a board placed in equilibrium, the centre will be always most at rest; the true seat will be found in that part of your saddle, into which your body would naturally slide, if you rode without stirrups; and is only to be preserved by a proper poise of the body, though the generality of riders imagine it is to be done by the grasp of the thighs and knees. The rider should consider himself as united to his horse in this point; and when thaken from it, endeavour to restore the balance.

Perhaps the mention of the two extremes of a bad seat may help to describe the true one. The one is, when the rider fits very far back on the saddle, so that his weight presses the loins of the horse: the other, when his body hangs forward over the pommel of the saddle. The first may be seen practised by grooms, when they ride with their stirrups affectedly short; the latter, by fearful horsemen on the least flutter of the horse. Every good rider has, even on the hunting saddle, as determined a place for his thighs, as can be determined for him by the bars of a demi-peak. Indeed there is no difference between the seat of either: only, as in the first you ride with shorter stirrups, your body will be consequently more behind your knees.

To have a good seat yourself, your saddle must fit well. To fix a precise rule might be difficult: it may be a direction, to have your saddle pres as nearly as possible on that part which we have described as the point of union between the man and horse; however, so as not to obstruct the motion of the horse's shoulders. Place yourself in the middle or lowest part of it: sit erect; but with as little constraint as in your ordinary sitting. The ease of action marks the gentleman: you may repose yourself, but not lounge. The set and studied erectness acquired in the riding-house, by those whose deportment is not easy, appears ungentle and unnatural.

If your horse stops short, or endeavours by rising and kicking to unseat you, bend not your body forward, as many do in these circumstances: that motion throws the breech backward, and you off your fork or twist, and out of your seat; whereas, the advancing the lower part of your body, and bending back the upper part and shoulders, is the method both to keep your feet, and to recover it when lost. The bending your body back, and that in a great degree, is the greatest security in flying leaps; it is a security too, when your horse leaps standing. The horse's rising does not try the rider's seat; the lath of his hind legs is what ought chiefly to be guarded against, and is best done by the body's being greatly inclined back. Stiffen not your legs or thighs; and let your body be pliable in the loins, like the coachman's on his box. This loose manner of fitting will elude every rough motion of the horse; whereas the fixture of the knees, so commonly laid a stress on, will in great shocks conduct to the violence of the fall.

Was the cricket-player, when the ball is struck with the greatest velocity, to hold his hand firm and fixed when he receives it, the hand would be bruised, or perhaps the bones fractured by the resistance. To obviate this accident, he therefore gradually yields his hand to the motion of the ball for a certain distance; and thus by a due mixture of opposition and obedience, catches it without sustaining the least injury. The case is exactly the same in riding: the skilful horseman will recover his poise by giving some way to the motion; and the ignorant horseman will be flung out of his seat by endeavouring to be fixed.

Stretch not out your legs before you; this will push you against the back of the saddle; neither gather up your knees like a man riding on a pack; this throws your thighs upwards: each practice unseats you. Keep your legs straight down; and sit not on the most fleshy part of the thighs, but turn them inwards, so as to bring in your knees and toes: and it is more safe to ride with the ball of the foot pressing on the stirrup, than with the stirrup as far back as the heel: for the pressure of the heel being in that case behind the stirrup, keeps the thighs down.

When you find your thighs thrown upwards, widen your knees to get them and the upper part of your fork lower down on the horse. Grasp the saddle with the hollow or inner part of your thighs, but not more Rules for Bad Horsemen.

than just to assist the balance of your body: this will also enable you to keep your spurs from the horse's sides, and to bring your toes in, without that affected and useless manner of bringing them in practised by many. Sink your heels straight down; for while your heels and thighs keep down, you cannot fall: this (aided with the bend of the back) gives the security of a feat, to those who bear themselves up in their stirrups in a swift gallop, or in the alternate rising and falling in a full trot.

Let your seat determine the length of your stirrups, rather than the stirrups your seat. If more precision is requisite, let your stirrups (in the hunting saddle) be of such a length, as that, when you stand in them, there may be the breadth of four fingers between your seat and the saddle.

It would greatly assist a learner, if he would practice riding in a large circle, as directed sect. ii. without stirrups; keeping his face looking on the outward part of the circle so as not to have a full view of the horse's head, but just of that ear which is on the outward part of the circle; and his shoulder, which is towards the centre of the circle, very forward. By this means you learn to balance your body, and keep a true seat, independent of your stirrups: you may probably likewise escape a fall, should you at any time lose them by being accidentally shaken from your seat.

As the seat in some measure depends on the saddle, it may not be amiss to observe, that because a saddle with a high pommel is thought dangerous, the other extreme prevails, and the pommel is scarce allowed to be higher than the middle of the saddle. The saddle should lie as near the back-bone as can be, without hurting the horse; for the nearer you fit to his back, the better seat you have. If it does so, it is plain the pommel must rise enough to secure the withers from pressure: therefore, a horse whose withers are higher than common, requires a higher pommel. If, to avoid this, you make the saddle of a more straight line, the inconvenience spoken of follows; you fit too much above the horse's back, nor can the saddle form a proper seat. There should be no ridge from the button at the side of the pommel, to the back part of the saddle. That line also should be a little concave, for your thighs to lie at ease. In short, a saddle ought to be, as nearly as possible, as if cut out of the horse.

When you want your horse to move forward, raise his head a little, and touch him gently with your whip; or else, press the calves of your legs against his sides. If he does not move fast enough, press them with more force, and so till the spur just touches him. By this practice he will (if he has any spirit) move upon the least pressure of the leg. Never spur him by a kick; but if it be necessary to spur him briskly, keep your heels close to his sides, and slacken their force as he becomes obedient.

When your horse attempts to be vicious, take each rein separate, one in each hand, and advancing your arms forward, hold him very short. In this case, it is common for the rider to pull him hard, with his arms low. But the horse by this means having his head low too, has it more in his power to throw out his heels: whereas, if his head be raised very high, and his nose thrown out a little, which is consequent, he can neither rise before nor behind; because he can give himself neither of those motions, without having his head at liberty. A plank placed in equilibrium, cannot rise at one end unless it sinks at the other.

If your horse is headstrong, pull not with one continued pull, but stop, and back him often, just shaking the reins, and making little repeated pulls till he obeys. Horses are so accustomed to bear on the bit when they go forward, that they are discouraged if the rider will not let them do so.

If a horse is loose-necked, he will throw up his head at a continued pull; in which situation, the rider, seeing the front of his face, can have no power over him. When your horse does thus, drop your hand and give the bridle play, and he will of course drop his head again into its proper place: while it is coming down, make a second gentle pull, and you will find his mouth. With a little practice, this is done almost instantaneously; and this method will stop, in the distance of a few yards, a horse, which will run away with those who pull at him with all their might. Almost every one must have observed, that when a horse feels himself pulled with the bridle, even when he is going gently, he often mistakes what was designed to stop him, as a direction to bear on the bit and to go faster.

Keep your horse's head high, that he may raise his neck and crest; play a little with the rein, and move the bit in his mouth, that he may not press on it in one constant and continued manner: be not afraid of raising his head too high; he will naturally be too ready to bring it down, and tire your arms with its weight, on the least abatement of his mettle. When you feel him heavy, stop him, and make him go back a few paces: thus you break by degrees his propensity to press on his bridle.

You ought not to be pleased (though many are) with a round neck, and a head drawn in towards his breast: let your horse carry his head bridling in, provided he carries it high, and his neck arching upwards; but if his neck bends downwards, his figure is bad, his sight is too near his toes, he leans on the bridle, and you have no command over him. If he goes pressing but lightly on the bridle, he is the more sure-footed, and goes pleasanter; as your wrist only may guide him. If he hangs down his head, and makes you support the weight of that and his neck with your arms bearing on his fore-legs, (which is called being on his shoulders,) he will strike his toes against the ground, and stumble.

If your horse is heavy upon the bit, tie him every day, for an hour or two, with his tail to the manger, and his head as high as you can make him lift it, by a rein on each post of the stall, tied to each ring of the snaffle bit.

Horse-breakers and grooms have a great propensity to bring a horse's head down, and seem to have no fear without a strong hold by the bridle. They know indeed, that the head should yield to the reins, and the neck form an arch; but do not take the proper pains to make it an arch upward. A temporary effect of attempting to raise a horse's head, may perhaps be making him push out his nose. They will here tell you, that his head is too high already; whereas it is not the distance from his nose, but from the top of his head head to the ground, which determines the head to be high or low. Besides, although the fault is said to be in the manner of carrying the head, it should rather be said to be in that of the neck; for if the neck was raised, the head would be more in the position of one set on a well formed neck.

The design therefore of lifting up the head, is to raise the neck, and thereby bring in the head; for even while the bridle takes the same line from the rider's hand to the bit, the horse's nose may be either drawn in, or thrust out, according as his neck is raised or depressed. Instead of what has been here recommended, we usually see colts broke with their heads cavedioned very low, their necks stiff, and not in the least suppled. When the breaking-tackle is left off, and they are mounted for the road, having more food and rest, they frequently plunge, and a second breaking becomes necessary. Then, as few gentlemen can manage their own horses, they are put into the hands of grooms, from whom they learn a variety of bad habits.

If, on the other hand, your horse carries his head (or rather his nose) too high, he generally makes some amends by moving his shoulders lightly, and going safely. Attend to the cause of this fault. Some horses have their necks set so low on their shoulders, that they bend first down, then upwards, like a flag's. Some have the upper line of their necks, from their ears to their withers, too short. A head of this sort cannot possibly bend inwards and form an arch, because the vertebrae (or neck bones) are too short to admit of flexure; for in long and short-necked horses the number of the vertebrae is the same. In some, the jaw is so thick, that it meets the neck, and the head by this means has not room to bend. On the other hand, some have the under line from the jaw to the breast so short, that the neck cannot rise.

In all these cases you may gain a little by a nice hand with an easy bit; but no curb, martingale, or other forcible method, will teach a horse to carry his head or neck in a posture which nature has made uneasy to him. By trying to pull in his nose farther than he can bear, you will add a bad habit to nature. You could not indeed contrive a more effectual method to make him continually toss his nose up, and throw his foam over you.

The rule already given to ride a loose-necked horse, will be a proper one for all light-mouthed horses; one caution being added, which is, always to search whether his saddle or girths may not in some way pinch him; and whether the bit may not hurt his lip by being too high in his mouth: because, whenever he frets from either of these causes, his head will not be steady.

It is a common custom to be always pulling at the bridle, as if to set off to advantage either the spirit of the horse, or the skill of the rider. Our horses therefore are taught to hold their heads low, and pull so as to bear up the rider from the saddle standing in his stirrups, even in the gentlest gallop: how very improper is this, we are experimentally convinced, when we happen to meet with a horse which gallops otherwise. We immediately say, he canters excellently, and find the ease and pleasure of his motion. When horses are designed for the race, and swiftness is the only thing considered, the method may be a good one.

It is not to be wondered that dealers are always pulling at their horses, that they have the spur constantly in their sides, and are at the same time continually checking the rein: by this means they make them bound, and champ the bit, while their rage has the appearance of spirit. These people ride with their arms spread, and very low on the shoulders of their horses: this method makes them stretch their necks, and gives a better appearance to their fore-hands; it conceals also a thick jaw, which, if the head was up, would prevent its yielding to the bit; it hides likewise the ewe-neck, which would otherwise show itself. Indeed, if you have a horse unsteady to the bit, formed with a natural heavy head, or one which carries his nose obstinately in the air, you must find his mouth where you can, and make the best of him.

Many horses are taught to start, by whipping them for starting. How is it possible they can know it is designed as a punishment? In the riding-house, you teach your horse to rise up before, and to spring and lath out his hinder legs, by whipping him when tied between two pillars, with his head a little at liberty. If he understood this to be a punishment for doing so, he would not by that method learn to do it. He seems to be in the same manner taught to spring and fly when he is frightened. Most horses would go quietly past an object they were beginning to fly from, if their riders, instead of gathering up their bridles, and showing themselves to ready, should throw the reins loose upon their necks.

When a horse starts at any thing on one side, most riders turn him out of the road, to make him go up to what he starts at: if he does not get the better of his fear, or readily comply, he generally goes past the object, making with his hinder parts, or croup, a great circle out of the road; whereas, he should learn to keep straight on, without minding objects on either side.

If he starts at any thing on the left, hold his head high, and keep it straight in the road, pulling it from looking at the thing he starts at, and keeping your right leg hard pressed against his side, towards his flank: he will then go straight along the road. By this method, and by turning his head a little more, he may be forced with his croup close up to what frightened him; for as his head is pulled one way, his croup necessarily turns the other. Always avoid a quarrel with your horse, if you can: if he is apt to start, you will find occasions enough to exercise his obedience, when what he starts at lies directly in his way, and you must make him pass; if he is not subject to start, you should not quarrel with him about a trifle.

It must be observed, however, that this rule in going past an object may perhaps be a little irregular in a managed horse, which will always obey the leg: but even such a horse, if he is really afraid, and not rettive, it may not be amiss to make look another way; unless the object be something you would particularly accustom him to the sight of.

The case will also be different with a horse whose fear is owing to his being not used to objects; but such a one is not to be rode by any horseman to whom these rules are directed: the starting here meant arises merely from the horse's being pampered, and springing through liveliness.

The notion of the necessity of making a horse go immediately up to every thing he is afraid of, and not suffering him to become master of his rider, seems to be in general carried too far. It is an approved and good method to conquer a horse's fear of the sound of a drum, by beating one near to him at the time of feeding him: this not only familiarizes the noise to him, but makes it pleasant, as a fore-runner of his meat*; whereas, if he was whipped up to it, he might perhaps start at it as long as he lived. Might not this be applied to his starting at other things, and show that it would be better to suffer him (provided he does not turn back) to go a little from and avoid an object he has a dislike to, and to accustom him to it by degrees, convincing him, as it were, that it will not hurt him; than to punish him, quarrel with him, and perhaps submit to his will at last, while you insist on his overcoming his fear in an instant? If he sees a like object again, it is probable he will recollect his dread, and arm himself to be disobedient.

We are apt to suppose that a horse fears nothing so much as his rider; but may he not, in many circumstances, be afraid of instant destruction? of being crushed? of being drowned? of falling down a precipice? Is it a wonder that a horse should be afraid of a loaded waggon? may not the hanging load seem to threaten the falling on him? There cannot be a rule more general, than, in such a case, to shew him there is room for him to pass. This is done by turning his head a very little from the carriage, and pressing your leg, which is farthest from it, against his side.

A horse is not to stop without a sign from his rider.—Is it not then probable, that when driven up to a carriage he starts at it, he conceives himself obliged either to attack or run against it? Can he understand the rider's spurring him with his face directed to it, as a sign for him to pass it? That a horse is easily alarmed for his face and eyes (he will even catch back his head from a hand going to caress him); that he will not go with any force, face to face, even to another horse (if in his power to stop); and that he fees perfectly sideways,—may be useful hints for the treatment of horses with regard to starting.

Though you ought not to whip a horse for starting, there can be no good effect from clapping his neck with your hand to encourage him. If one took any notice of his starting, it should be rather with some tone of voice which he usually understood as an expression of dislike to what he is doing; for there is opposition mixed with his starting, and a horse will ever repeat what he finds has foiled his rider.

Notwithstanding the directions above given, of not pressing a horse up to a carriage he starts at; yet if one which you apprehend will frighten him meets you at a narrow part of the road, when you have once let him know he is to pass it, be sure you remain determined, and press him on. Do this more especially when part of the carriage has already passed you: for if, when he is frightened, he is accustomed to go back, and turn round, he will certainly do it if he finds, by your hand slackening, and legs not pressing, that you are irresolute; and this at the most dangerous point of time, when the wheels of the carriage take him as he turns. Remember not to touch the curb rein at this time; it will certainly check him. It is not known to every one, that the person who would lead a horse by the bridle, should not turn his face to him when he refuses to follow him: if, besides this, he raises his arms, shows his whip, or pulls the bridle with jerks, he frightens the horse, instead of persuading him to follow; which a little patience may bring about.

Ride with a snaffle; and use your curb, if you have one, only occasionally. Choose your snaffle full and thick in the mouth, especially at the ends to which the reins are fastened. Most of them are made too small and long; they cut the horse's mouth, and bend back over the bars of his jaw, working like pincers.

The management of the curb is too nice a matter to enter on here, farther than to prescribe great caution in the use of it: a turn of the wrist, rather than the weight of your arm, should be applied to it. The elasticity of a rod, when it hath hooked a fish, may give you some idea of the proper play of a horse's head on his bridle; his spirit and his plianceness are both marked by it.

A horse should never be put to do any thing in a curb which he is not ready at: you may force him, or pull his head any way with a snaffle; but a curb acts only in a straight line. It is true, that a horse will be turned out of one track into another by a curb, but it is because he knows it as a signal. When he is put to draw a chair and does not understand the necessity he is then under of taking a larger sweep when he turns, you frequently see him resistive, as it is then called: but put him on a snaffle, or buckle the rein to that part of the bit which does not curb him; and the horse submits to be pulled about, till he understands what is desired of him. These directions suppose your horse to have spirit, and a good mouth; if he has not, you must take him as he is, and ride him with such a bit as you find most easy to yourself.

When you ride a journey, be not so attentive to your horse's nice carriage of himself, as to your encouragement of him, and keeping him in good humour. Raise his head; but if he flags, you may indulge him with bearing a little more upon the bit than you would suffer in an airing. If a horse is lame, tender-footed, or tired, he naturally hangs upon his bridle. On a journey, therefore, his mouth will depend greatly on his strength and the goodness of his feet. Be then very careful about his feet, and let not a farrier spoil them. You will be enabled to keep them from danger, by the directions given under the article FAR-RIERY.

Very few, although practised in riding, know they have any power over a horse but by the bridle; or any use for the spur, except to make him go forward. A little experience will teach them a farther use. If the left spur touches him (and he is at the same time prevented from going forward), he has a sign, which he will soon understand, to move sidewise to the right. In the same manner to the left, if the right spur is closet to him: he afterwards, through fear of the spur, rules for spur, obeys a touch of the leg; in the same manner as a horse moves his croup from one side of the stall to the other, when any one strikes him with his hand. In short, his croup is guided by the leg, as his head is by the bridle. He will never disobey the leg, unless he becomes restive. By this means you will have a far greater power over him; he will move sidewise, if you close one leg to him; and straight forward, if both: even when he stands still, your legs held near him will keep him on the watch; and with the slightest unseen motion of the bridle upwards, he will raise his head, and show his forehead to advantage.

On this use of the legs of the rider, and guidance of the croup of the horse, are founded all the airs (as the riding-masters express themselves) which are taught in the manege; the passage, or side-motion of troopers to close or open their files, and indeed all their evolutions. But the convenience of some degree of this discipline for common use is the reason of mentioning it here. It is useful if a horse is apt to stumble or start. If to the first, by pressing your legs to his flank, and keeping up his head, he is made to go light on his fore-legs, which is aiding and supporting him; and the same if he does actually stumble, by helping him at the very instant to exert himself, while as yet any part of him remains not irrecoverably imprefled with the precipitate motion. Hence this use of the hand and legs of the rider is called giving aids to a horse; for, as to holding up the weight of a heavy unactive horse, by mere pulling, it is as impossible as to recover him when falling down a precipice.

A horse is supported and helped by the hands and legs of his rider in every action they require of him; hence he is said to perform his airs by the aids from his rider.

The same manner is useful if a horse starts. For if when he is beginning to fly to one side, you leg on the side he is flying to, he stops his spring immediately. He goes past what he started at, keeping straight on, or as you choose to direct him; and he will not fly back from anything if you press him with both legs. You keep his haunches under him, going down a hill; help him on the side of a bank; more easily avoid the wheel of a carriage; and approach more gracefully and nearer to the side of a coach or horsemanship. When a pampered horse curves irregularly, and twists his body to and fro, turn his head either to the right or left, or both alternately (but without letting him move out of the track); and press your leg to the opposite side: your horse cannot then spring on his hind-legs to one side, because your leg prevents him; nor to the other, because his head looks that way, and a horse does not start and spring to the side on which he looks. Here it may not be amiss to observe the impropriety of the habit which many riders have, of letting their legs shake against the sides of the horse: if a horse is taught, they are then continually pressing him to violent action; and if he is not, they render him insensible and incapable of being taught. The fretting of a hot horse will hence be excessive, as it can no otherwise be moderated than by the utmost stillness of the seat, hands, and legs of the rider.

Colts at first are taught to bear a bit, and by degrees to pull at it. If they did not press it, they could not be guided by it. By degrees they find their necks stronger than the arms of a man; and that they are capable of making great opposition, and often of foiling their riders. Then is the time to make them supple and pliant in every part. The part which of all others requires most this pliancy is the neck. Hence the metaphor of stiff-necked for disobedient. A horse cannot move his head but with the muscles of his neck: this may be called his helm; it guides his course, changes and directs his motion.

The use of this pliancy in the different parts and limbs of a horse has been already shown in a former section. The present section being directed to the inexperienced horseman, it may suffice to add that his idea of suppleness need only be, that of an ability and readiness in a horse to move every limb, on a sign given him by the hands or legs of his rider; as also to bend his body, and move in a short compass, quick and collected within himself, so as instantly to be able to perform any other motion.