one of the Hebrides, or Western Islands of Scotland, lying opposite to Knapdale in Argyleshire, is supposed to be about 34 miles long and 10 broad. It is the most rugged of all the Hebrides; and is composed chiefly of vast mountains, naked, and without a possibility of cultivation. Some of the south and western sides only are improvable, and in good seasons as much bear and oats are raised as will maintain the inhabitants; though by the distillation, as Mr Pennant supposes, of their grain, they sometimes want. Bear produces four or five fold, and oats threefold. Sloes are the only fruits of the island; besides the berries of the mountain-ash, from which an acid for punch is obtained, and a kind of spirit is also distilled. Necessity hath instructed the inhabitants in the use of native dyes. Thus the juice of the tops of heath boiled supplies them with a yellow; the roots of the white water lily with a dark brown; those of the yellow water iris with a black; and the galium verum, ru of the islanders, with a very fine red, not inferior to madder. On the hills is some pasture for cattle; and the produce, when Mr Pennant visited the island, amounted to about 300 or 400 head of black cattle, sold annually at 3l. each; in 1803, the number of black cattle annually exported amounted to 500, which bring, at an average 8l. each; and about 1000 sheep, which bring 1l. each; but goats are less numerous than formerly: about 100 horses are also sold annually. The other animals of Jura are about 100 flags; though these must formerly have been much more numerous, as the original name of the island was Deir-ay, or the isle of deer, so called by the Norwegians on account of the abundance of deer found in it. Here also Mr Pennant had some obscure account of a worm that, in a less perilous degree, resembles the FURIA infernalis of Linnaeus. The fillan, a little worm of Jura, small as a thread, and not an inch in length, infatuates itself under the skin, causes a redness and great pain, flies swiftly from place to place; but is cured by a poultice of cheese and honey. Of the mountains of Jura, those from their shape called the pops, are the most remarkable. There are only three very large ones: the biggest called Beinn-an-oir, or the mountain of gold, lies farthest to the north; the second is called Beinn-sleunta, or the hallowed mountain; and the third, Beinn-a-chaolais, or the mountain of the sound, is the least of the three. Mr Pennant Pennant ascended the first with great labour and difficulty. It is composed of vast stones covered with moss near the base; but all above bare, and unconnected with each other. The whole, he says, seems a cairn, the work of the sons of Saturn. The grandeur of the prospect from the top abundantly made amends for the fatigue of ascending the mountain. Jura itself afforded a stupendous scene of rock, varied with innumerable little lakes. From the west side of the hill ran a narrow stripe of rock terminating in the sea, and called the slide of the old hag. To the south appeared Ilay extended like a map beneath his feet; and beyond that the north of Ireland; to the east two other islands, Cantyre, Arran, and the frith of Clyde bounded by Ayrshire; an amazing tract of mountains to the northeast as far as Benlomond; Skarba finished the northern view; and over the western ocean were scattered Colonfay and Oranfay, Mull, Iona, and its neighbouring isles; and still further, the long extents of Tirey and Col, just apparent. The other paps are seen very distinctly, but all of them inferior in height. Mr Banks and his friends mounted that to the south, and found the height to be 2359 feet; but this is far overtopped by Beinn-an-oir. The stones of this mountain are white, a few red, quartzy, and composed of small grains; but some are brecciated, or filled with crystalline kernels of an amethystine colour. The other stones of the island are, a cinereous slate, veined with red, and used here as a whetstone; a micaceous sandstone; and between the small isles and Arfin, a micaceous quartz rock-flute. On the west side of the island there is an anchoring place called Whitfarlan; towards the north end is a bay called Da'ly Gaul; and on the same coast is formed another riding place for vessels among several small isles. Between the north end of Jura and the small isle of Skarba, there is a famous whirlpool, called Cory Bhrecan, from Breacan son to a king of Denmark, who perished in this gulf. His body being cast ashore on the north side of Jura, was buried in a cave, and his grave is still distinguished by a tombstone and altar. In this vortex, which extends about a mile in breadth, the sea begins to boil and ferment with the tide of flood, increasing gradually to a number of whirlpools, which, in the form of pyramids, spout up the water, with a great noise, as high as the mast of a small vessel, agitated into such a foam as makes the sea appear white even at the distance of two leagues. About half-flood the violence begins to decrease, and continues to do so till about half an hour after high water: then it boils as before, till within an hour of low water, when the smallest fishing boat may cross it without danger.

Jura is furnished with many rivulets and springs of excellent water, and the air is remarkably healthy; its salubrity being increased by the high situation, perpetually fanned by breezes. It is, however, but ill peopled; and did not contain above 700 or 800 inhabitants at the time it was visited by Mr Pennant. The number in 1805 has increased to 1100. The women are prolific, and very often bear twins. The inhabitants live to a great age, and are liable to few distempers. Men of 90 can work; and there was living in Pennant's time a woman of 80, who could run down a sheep. The inhabitants are all Protestants, but addicted to some superstitions. The parish is supposed to be the largest in Great Britain, and the duty the most dangerous and troublesome: it consists of Jura, Oranfay, Colonfay, Skarba, and several little isles divided by narrow and dangerous sounds; forming a length of not less than 60 miles; supplied by only one minister and an assistant.

The very old clans of Jura are the Macduffs and the Macraines; but it seems to have changed masters more than once. In 1549, Donald of Cantyre, Macguillayne of Doward, Macguillayne of Kinlochty, and Macduffie of Colonfay were the proprietors; Maclean of Mull had also a share in 1586. Mr Campbell of Jura, and Mr Macneil of Colonfay, are now (1807) the only proprietors of this island; but by far the greatest part belongs to the former.

Jura is also the name of a chain of mountains in Switzerland, beginning in the canton of Zurich, extending from thence along the Rhine into the canton and bishopric of Basle, stretching into the canton of Soleure and the principality of Neuchatel, and branching out towards the Pays de Vaud; separating that country from Franche Compte and Burgundy, and continued beyond the Genevan territories as far as the Rhone. Many elevated valleys are formed by different parts of this chain in the country of the Pays de Vaud; among which one of the most remarkable is the valley of the lake of Joux, on the top of that part of the chain named Mont Joux. It contains several populous villages, and is beautifully diversified with wood, arable land, and pasture. It is watered by two lakes; the largest of which is that of Joux already mentioned. This has one shore of a high rock covered with wood; the opposite banks forming a gentle ascent, fertile and well cultivated; behind which is a ridge covered with pines, beech, and oak wood. The smaller lake, named Bremet, is bordered with fine corn fields and villages; and the stream which issues from it is lost in a gulf named Entonnoir, or the Funnel, where the people have placed several mills which are turned by the force of the falling current. The river Orbe issues from the other side of the mountain about two miles from this place; and probably owes its origin to the subterraneous stream just mentioned. The largest lake is supplied by a rivulet which issues from the bottom of a rock, and loses itself in it. The valley contains about 3000 inhabitants, remarkable for their industry. Some are watchmakers; but the greatest number employ themselves in polishing crystals, granites, and marcasites. The country is much infested with bears and wolves. In ascending to this place there is a very extensive prospect of great part of the Pays de Vaud, the lake of Geneva, and that of Neuchatel, which from that high point of view appear to be nearly on a level; though M. de Luce found the latter to be 159 feet above the level of the lake of Geneva.