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KAMTSCHATKA

Volume 11 · 7,965 words · 1815 Edition

slands have greatly increased the trade of Kamtschatka, and rendered it an important part of the Russian commerce.

The face of the country throughout the peninsula is chiefly mountainous. It produces in some parts birch, poplars, elders, willows, underwood, and berries of different sorts. Greens and other vegetables are raised with great facility; such as white cabbage, turnips, radishes, beet root, carrots, and some cucumbers. Agriculture is in a very low state, owing chiefly to the nature of the soil and the severe frosts: for though some trials have been made with respect to the cultivation of grain, and oats, barley, and rye, have been sown, yet no crop has ever been procured sufficient in quantity or quality to answer the trouble of raising it. Hemp, however, has of late years been cultivated with great success.—Every year a vessel belonging to the crown sails from Ochotsk to Kamtschatka laden with salt, provisions, corn, and Russian manufactures; and returns in June or July of the following year with skins and furs.

Many traces of volcanoes have been observed in this peninsula; and there are some mountains which are in a burning state at present. The most considerable of these is situated near the middle of the peninsula. In 1762, a great noise was heard issuing from the inside of that mountain, and flames of fire were seen to burst from different parts. These flames were immediately succeeded by a large stream of melted snow water, which flowed into the neighbouring valley, and drowned two natives who were there on a hunting party. The ashes and burning matters thrown from the mountain were spread over a surface of 300 versts. In 1767 was another discharge, but less considerable. Every night flames of fire were observed streaming from the mountain; and considerable damage was done by the eruption which attended them. Since that year no flames have been seen; but the mountain emits a constant smoke.

Kamtschatka is divided by the Russians into four districts; and the government of the whole is dependent upon, and subject to, the inspection of the chancery of Ochotsk. The whole Russian force stationed in this peninsula amounts to no more than 300 men. The present population of Kamtschatka is very small, amounting to scarce 4000 souls. Formerly the inhabitants were more numerous; but in 1768, the smallpox carried off 5368 persons. There are now only about 700 males in the whole peninsula who are tributary, and a few more than 100 in the neighbouring islands, called the Kurile Isles, who are subject to Russia. The fixed annual tribute consists in 279 sables, 464 red foxes, 50 sea otters with a dam, and 38 cub otters. All furs exported from Kamtschatka pay a duty of 10 per cent. to the crown; the tenth part of the cargoes bought from the neighbouring islands is also delivered into the customs.

Many of the natives of Kamtschatka have no fixed habitations, but wander from place to place with their herds of reindeer; others have settled habitations, and reside upon the banks of the rivers and the shores of the Penchinsk sea, living upon fish and sea animals, and such herbs as grow upon the shores: the former dwell in huts covered with deer skins; the latter in places dug out of the earth. The natives are divided into three different peoples, namely, the Kamtschatkans, Kamtschat-Koreki, and Kuriles. The Kamtschatkans live upon the south side of the promontory of Kamtschatka: the Koreki inhabit the northern parts on the coast of the Penchinsk sea, and round the eastern ocean almost to the river Anadır, whose mouth lies in that ocean almost in 68° N. Lat.: the Kuriles inhabit the islands in that sea, reaching as far as those of Japan. The Kamtschatkans have this particular custom, that they endeavour to give every thing a name in their language which may express the property of it; but if they do not understand the thing quite well themselves, then they take a name from some foreign language, which perhaps has no relation to the thing itself; as, for example, they call a priest bogbog, because probably they hear him use the word bogbog, “God;” bread they call brightatin angsh, that is Russian root; and thus of several other words to which their language is a stranger.

It appears probable, that the Kamtschatkans lived formerly in Mongolia beyond the river Amur, and made one people with the Mongals; which is farther confirmed by the following observations, such as the Kamtschatkan having several words common to the Mongal Chinese language, as their terminations in ong, ing, oang, chin, cha, ching, kfi, kfung; it would be still a greater proof, if we could show several words and sentences the same in both languages. The Kamtschatkans and Mongals also are both of a middling stature, are swarthy, have black hair, a broad face, a sharp nose, with the eyes falling in, eyebrows small and thin, a hanging belly, slender legs and arms; they are both remarkable for cowardice, boasting, and slavishness to people who use them hard, and for their obstinacy and contempt of those who treat them with gentleness.

Although in outward appearance they resemble the other inhabitants of Siberia, yet the Kamtschatkans differ in this, that their faces are not so long as the other Siberians; their cheeks stand more out, their teeth are thick, their mouth large, their stature middling, and their shoulders broad, particularly those people who inhabit the sea coast.

Both men and women plait their hair in two locks, binding the ends with small ropes. When any hair starts out, they sew it with threads to make it lie close; by this means they have such a quantity of lice, that they can scrape them off by handfuls, and they are nasty enough even to eat them. Those that have not natural hair sufficient, wear false locks, sometimes as much as weigh 10 pounds, which makes their head look like a haycock. But many of the women already wear their hair, and are nearly dressed in the same manner as the Russians, whose language is the most prevalent. It may be said in praise of the Russians, that though they have established a despotic government in this rude climate, it is tempered by a mildness and equity which prevent its inconveniences from being felt. The taxes levied on the Kamtschatkans are so trifling, that they may be regarded only as a mark of gratitude to the sovereign. La Perouse considered the people of this peninsula as the same with those of the bay of Caftries, their mildness and probity being similar, and their persons very little different.

Their trade is almost entirely confined to procure the immediate necessaries and conveniences of life. They sell the Koreki fables, fox and white dog skins, dried mushrooms, and the like, in exchange for clothes made of deer skins and other hides. Their domestic trade consists in dogs, boats, dishes, troughs, nets, hemp yarn, and provisions; and this kind of barter is carried on under a great show of friendship; for when one wants any thing that another has, he goes freely to visit him, and without any ceremony, makes known his wants, although perhaps he never had any acquaintance with him before: the host is obliged to behave according to the custom of the country, and give his guest what he has occasion for; but he may afterwards return the visit, and must be received in the same manner. They fill almost every place in heaven and earth with different spirits, and offer them sacrifices upon every occasion. Some carry little idols about them, or have them placed in their dwellings.

It is very diverting to see them attempt to reckon above ten: for having reckoned the fingers of both hands, they clasp them together, which signifies ten; then they begin with their toes, and count to twenty; after which they are quite confounded, and cry, Metcha? that is, Where shall I take more? They reckon ten months in the year, some of which are longer and some shorter; for they do not divide them by the change of the moon, but by the order of particular occurrences that happen in those regions. They commonly divide our year into two, so that winter is one year and summer another: the summer year begins in May, and the winter in November. They do not distinguish the days by any particular appellation, nor form them into weeks or months, nor yet know how many days are in the month or year. They mark their epochs by some remarkable thing or other; such as the arrival of the Russians, or the first expedition to Kamtschatka.

If any one kills another, he is to be killed by the relations of the person slain. They burn the hands of people who have been frequently caught in theft; but for the first offence the thief must restore what he hath stolen, and live alone in solitude, without expecting the affluence of others. They have no disputes about their land or their huts, every one having land and water more than sufficient for his wants. They think themselves the happiest people in the world, and look upon the Russians who are settled among them with contempt. However, this notion begins to change; for the old people who are confirmed in their customs drop off, and the young ones being converted to the Christian religion, adopt the customs of the Russians, and despise the barbarity and superstition of their ancestors. The Greek religion has been established among them without persecution or violence. The vicar of Paratounka is the son of a native by a Russian woman. The people have insured themselves to the extremes of heat and cold, by going into vapour baths, coming out covered with perspiration, and then rolling themselves in the snow.

In every ostrog or large village, by order of her imperial majesty, is appointed a chief, who is sole judge in all cases except those of life and death; and not only those chiefs, but even the common people, have their chapels for worship. Schools are also erected in almost every village, to which the Kamtschatkans send their children with great pleasure; by this means it is to be hoped that barbarity will be in a short time rooted out from amongst them.

Under the name of ostrog is understood every habitation consisting of one or more huts, all surrounded by an earthen wall or palliato.—The huts are built in the following manner: they dig a hole in the earth about five feet deep, the breadth and length proportioned to the number of people designed to live in it. In the middle of this hole they plant four thick wooden pillars; over these they lay balks, upon which they form the roof or ceiling, leaving in the middle a square opening which serves them for a window and chimney; this they cover with grass and earth, so that the outward appearance is like a round hillock; but within they are an oblong square, with the fire in one of the long sides of the square: between the pillars round the walls of their huts they make benches, upon which each family lies separately; but on that side opposite to the fire there are no benches, being designed for their kitchen furniture, in which they dry their victuals for themselves and dogs. In those huts where there are no benches, there are balks laid upon the floor, and covered with mats. They adorn the walls of their huts with mats made of grass. They enter their huts by ladders, commonly placed near the fire hearth; so that, when they are heating their huts, the steps of the ladder become so hot, and the smoke so thick, that it is almost impossible for a stranger to go up or down without being burnt, and even stifled to death; but the natives find no difficulty in it; and though they can only fix their toes on the steps of the ladder, they mount like squirrels; nor do the women hesitate to go through this smoke with their children upon their shoulders, though there is another opening through which the women are allowed to pass; but if any man pretend to do the same, he would be laughed at. The Kamtschatkans live in these huts all the winter, after which they go into others called balagans; these serve them not only to live in during the summer, but also for magazines. They are made in the following manner: Nine pillars, about two fathoms long, or more, are fixed in the ground, and bound together with balks laid over them, which they cover with rods, and over all lay grass, fastening spars, and a round sharp roof at top, which they cover with bramble, and thatch with grass. They fasten the lower ends of the spars to the balks with ropes and thongs, and have a door on each side, one directly opposite to the other. They make use of the same kind of huts to keep their fish, &c., till winter comes on, when they can more easily remove it; and this without any guard, only taking away the ladders. If these buildings were not so high, the wild beasts would undoubtedly plunder them; for notwithstanding all their precaution, the bears sometimes climb up and force their way into their magazines, especially in the harvest, when the fish and berries begin to grow scarce.

The southern Kamtschatkans commonly build their villages in thick woods and other places which are naturally strong, not less than 20 versts from the sea; and their summer habitations are near the mouths of the rivers; but those who live upon the Penschinska sea and the eastern ocean build their villages very near the shore. They look upon that river near which Kamtschatka's village is situated as the inheritance of their tribe.

In order to kindle fire, they use a board of dry wood with round holes in the sides of it, and a small round stick; this they rub in a hole till it takes fire; and instead of tinder they use dry grass beat soft. These instruments are held in such esteem by the Kamtschakans, that they are never without them, and they value them more than our steel and flints; but they are excessively fond of iron instruments, such as hatchets, knives, or needles; nay, at the first arrival of the Russians, a piece of broken iron was looked upon as a great present; and even now they receive it with thankfulness, finding use for the least fragment, either to point their arrows, or make darts, which they do by hammering it out cold between two stones. As some of them delight in war, the Russian merchants are forbid to sell them any warlike instruments; but they are ingenious enough to make spears and arrows out of the iron pots and kettles which they buy; and they are so dexterous, when the eye of a needle breaks, as to make a new eye, which they will repeat until nothing remains but the point.

The Kamtschakans make their boats of poplar wood; but the Kuriles not having any wood of their own, make use of what is thrown on shore by the sea, and is supposed to come from the coasts of Japan, China, or America. The northern inhabitants of Kamtschatka, the settled Koreki and Tschukotkoi, for want of proper timber and plank, make their boats of the skins of sea animals. They sew the pieces together with whale's beards, and caulk them with moss or nettles beat small. These boats hold two persons; one of which sits in the prow, and the other in the stern. They push them against the stream with poles, which is attended with great trouble: when the current is strong, they can scarcely advance two feet in ten minutes; notwithstanding which, they will carry these boats, fully loaded, sometimes twenty versts, and when the stream is not very strong, even thirty or forty versts. The larger boats carry thirty or forty pood; when the goods are not very heavy, they lay them upon a float or bridge resting upon two boats joined together. They use this method in transporting their provisions down the stream, and also to and from the islands.

Their clothes for the most part are made of the skins of deer, dogs, several sea and land animals, and even of the skins of birds; those of different animals being frequently joined in the same garment. They make the upper garment after two fashions; sometimes cutting the skirts all of an equal length, and sometimes leaving them long behind in form of a train, with wide sleeves of a length to come down below the knee, and a hood or caul behind, which in bad weather they put over their heads below their caps; the opening above is only large enough to let their heads pass; they sew the skins of dogs feet round this opening, with which they cover their faces in cold stormy weather; and round their skirts and sleeves they put a border of white dog skin; upon their backs they sew the small shreds of skins of different colours. They commonly wear two coats; the under coat with the hair side inwards, the other side being dyed with alder; and the upper with the hair outwards. For the upper garment they choose black, white, or speckled skins, the hair of which is most esteemed for the beauty of its colour.

Men and women without distinction use the above-mentioned garments, their dress only differing in their under clothing and in the covering of their feet and legs. The women have an under garment, which they commonly wear at home in the house, consisting of breeches and a waistcoat sewed together. The breeches are wide like those of the Dutch flippers, and tie below the knee; the waistcoat is wide above, and drawn round with a string. The summer habits are made of dressed skins without hair; their winter garment is made of deer or stone-ram skins with the hair on. The undress or household habit of the men is a girdle of leather with a bag before, and likewise a leathern apron to cover them behind; these girdles are sewed with hair of different colours. The Kamtschakans used formerly to go a hunting and fishing during the summer in this dress; but now this fashion is changed, and they wear linen shirts, which they buy from the Russians.

The covering of their feet and legs is made of skins of different sorts: in the summer time, during the rains, they wear the skins of seals with the hair outwards; but their most common covering is the skin of the legs of the rein deer, and sometimes of the legs of other beasts, the shaggiest they can find, to preserve them against the cold. But the buckskins which both the Cossacks and Kamtschakans use in their finest dress are made in the following manner: the sole is of white seal skin, the upper part of fine white leather, the hind quarters of white dog skin; what comes round the legs is of dressed leather or dyed seal skin; the upper parts are embroidered. These buckskins are so extraordinary, that if a bachelor is observed to wear them, he is immediately concluded to be upon a scheme of courtship.

They wear the same sort of caps as the people of Yakutsk. In summer they have a fort of hats of birch bark tied about their head. The Kuriles use in the summer time caps made of plaited grass. The women's head dress is the periwigs that we formerly mentioned; and these were so dear to them, that when they came to be Christians they were with difficulty prevailed upon to quit this dress for one more decent; however, at present, round the Russian settlements, all is entirely changed, the women wearing shirts, ruffles, waistcoats, caps, and ribbands; which change nobody now complains of except the very old people. The women do all their work in mittens; they formerly never washed their faces, but now they use both white and red paint: for white paint they make use of a rotten wood; and for red a sea plant, which they boil in seals fat, and rubbing their cheeks with it, make them very red. They dress most in the winter time, especially when they either receive or pay visits.

The common clothes for a Kamtschatan and his family will not cost him less than 100 rubles; for the coarsest worsted stockings, which cost in Russia 20 kopecks, cannot be bought here for less than a ruble; and all other things are sold in the same proportion. The Kuriles are more able to buy good clothes than the Kamtschakans: for they can purchase for one sea beaver as much as the Kamtschakans can for twenty foxes; and one beaver costs the Kuriles no more trouble than five foxes do the Kamtschakans; for he must The Kamtschatkans divide their fish into six parts; the sides and tails are hung up to dry; the back and thinner part of the belly are prepared apart, and generally dried over the fire; the head is laid to four in pits, and then they eat it like salt fish, and esteem it much, though the stink is such that a stranger cannot bear it; the ribs and the flesh which remain upon them they hang up and dry, and afterwards pound for use; the larger bones they likewise dry for food for their dogs; in this manner all these different people prepare the yokola, which is their principal food, or, one may say, household bread; and they eat it for the most part dry.

Their second favourite food is caviare, or the roes of fish, which they prepare three different ways. They dry the roe whole in the air; or take it out of the skin which envelopes it, and spreading it upon a bed of grass, dry it before the fire; or, lastly, make rolls of it with the leaves of grass, which they also dry. They never take a journey or go to hunting without dry caviare; and if a Kamtschatkan has a pound of this, he can subsist without any other provision a great while; for every birch and alder tree furnishes him with bark, which with his dried caviare makes him an agreeable meal; but they cannot eat either separately, for the caviare sticks like glue to the teeth; and it is almost impossible to swallow the bark, chewed ever so long by itself. There is still a fourth method, which both Kamtschatkans and Koreki use in preparing their caviare: the first, having covered the bottom of a pit with grass, they throw the fresh caviare into it, and leave it there to grow four; the Koreki tie theirs in bags, and leave it to four; this is esteemed their most delicate dish.

There is a third sort of diet, called by the Kamtschatkans chaprikhi, which is prepared in this manner: in their huts, over the fire-place, they make a bridge of stakes, upon which they lay a heap of fish, which remains there, until the hut becomes as warm as a bagnio. If there is no great thickness of fish, one fire serves to dress it; but sometimes they are obliged to make two, three, or more fires. Fish dressed in this manner is half roasted half smoked, but has a very agreeable taste, and may be reckoned the best of all the Kamtschatkan cookery: for the whole juice and fat is prepared with a gradual heat, and kept in by the skin, from which they may when done enough be easily separated; and as soon as it is thus dressed, they take out the guts, and spread the body upon a mat to dry: this they afterwards break small, and putting it into bags, carry it along with them for provision, eating it like the yokola.

The Kamtschatkans have a dish which they esteem very much, called kuigul: it is fish laid to grow four in pits; and though the smell of it is intolerable, yet the Kamtschatkans esteem it a perfume. This fish sometimes rots so much in the pits, that they cannot take it out without ladies; in which case indeed they use it for feeding their dogs.

As for the flesh of land and the larger sea animals, they boil it in their troughs with several different herbs and roots; the broth they drink out of ladles and bowls, and the meat they take out upon boards, and eat in their hands. The whale and sea horse fat they also boil with roots.

There is a principal dish at all their feasts and entertainments, called felaga, which they make by pounding all sorts of different roots and berries, with the addition of caviare, and whale and seal fat.

Before the conquet, they seldom used any thing for drink but plain water, unless when they made merry; then they drank water which had stood some time upon mushrooms. At present they drink spirits as fast as the Ruffians. After dinner they drink water: and when they go to bed at night, let a vessel of water by them, with the addition of snow or ice to keep it cold, and always drink it up before morning. In the winter time, they amuse themselves frequently by throwing handfuls of snow into their mouths; and the bridegrooms, who work with the fathers of their future brides, find it their hardest task to provide snow for the family in summer time; for they must bring it from the highest hills, be the weather what it will, otherwise they would never be forgiven.

The Kamtschatkans commonly travel in sledges drawn by dogs. The animals used for this purpose differ very little from the common house dogs; they with dogs are of a middling size, of various colours, though there seem to be more white, black, and gray, than of any other. In travelling, they make use of those that are castrated, and generally yoke four to a sledge. They drive and direct their dogs with a crooked stick about four feet long, which they sometimes adorn with different coloured thongs; this is looked upon as a great piece of finery. They drive their sledge fitting upon their right side, with their feet hanging down; for it would be looked upon as a disgrace for a man to fit down at the bottom of the sledge, or to make use of any person to drive him, nobody doing this but the women. It is very difficult to travel in these sledges; for unless a man keeps the exact balance, he is liable every moment from the height and narrowness of them to be overturned: in a rugged road this would be very dangerous, as the dogs never stop till they come to some house, or are entangled by something upon the road; especially in going down steep hills, when they run with all their force, and are scarcely to be kept in; for which reason, in defending any great declivity, they unyoke all the dogs except one, and lead them softly down. They likewise walk up hills; for it is as much as the dogs can do to drag up the sledge empty.

After a deep snow, before it has been hardened by a frost, there is no travelling with dogs till a road be made, which is effected by a man going before upon snow shoes, whom they call brodovskika. The snow shoes are made of two thin boards, separated in the middle, bound together at the ends, and with the fore part bent a little upwards. The brodovskika, having one of these shoes upon each foot, leaves the dogs and sledge, and going on clears the road for some way; then returning, leads forward the dogs and sledge so far as the road is made; a method which he must continue till he comes to some dwelling house. This is very laborious; and it happens so often, that no driver ever sets out without his snow shoes. When a storm of driven snow Kamtschatkans snow surprizes them, they are obliged with all haste to seek the shelter of some wood, and stay there as long as the tempest lasts, which sometimes is a whole week. If they are a large company, they dig a place for themselves under the snow, and cover the entry with wood or brambles. Sometimes they hide themselves in caves or holes of the earth, wrapping themselves up in their furs; and when thus covered, they move or turn themselves with the greatest caution lest they should throw off the snow, for under that they lie as warm as in their common huts: they only require a breathing place; but their clothes must not be tight or hard girt about them, for then the cold is unendurable. Another danger attending travellers is, that in the severest frost several rivers are not quite frozen over; and as the roads for the most part lie close upon the rivers, the banks being very steep, scarce a year passes without many being drowned. A disagreeable circumstance also to those who travel in these parts, is their sometimes being obliged to pass through copses, where they run the risk of having their eyes scratched out or their limbs broken; for the dogs always run most violently in the worst roads, and, to free themselves, very often overturn their driver. The best travelling is in the month of March or April, when the snow is turned hard or frozen a little at top; however, there is still this inconvenience attending it, that sometimes travellers are obliged to lodge two or three nights in desert places; and it is difficult to prevail upon the Kamtschatkans to make a fire either for warming themselves or dressing victuals, as they and their dogs eat dried fish, and find themselves so warm wrapped in their furs, that they want no other heat; nay, all the people in this climate bear cold so well, that they sleep in the open air as sound as others in a warm bed, and awake next morning perfectly refreshed and alert. This seems to be so natural to all here, that some of them have been seen to lie down with their backs uncovered against a fire, and notwithstanding the fire has been burnt out long before morning, they continued to sleep on very comfortably, and without any inconvenience.

The bay of Avatcha is described by M. Peroufe as the finest, most convenient, and the safest that is to be met with in any part of the world. The entrance is narrow, the bottom is mud, and excellent holding ground. Two vast harbours, one on the eastern, and the other on the western side, are capable of containing all the ships of the French and English navy. The village of St Peter and St Paul is situated on a tongue of land, which forms a little port behind the village, in which three or four vessels might be laid up for the winter. It is found to be in N. Lat. 53° 1' E. Long. 156° 30' from Paris.

**Islands in the sea of Kamtschatka.** So many of these have been discovered by the Russians, that the existence of almost a continued chain of islands between the continents of Asia and America is now rendered extremely probable. Many further discoveries of great importance to science, however, remain yet to be made. The principal islands already known are the Kurile islands, which stretch south-west towards the coasts of China or Japan, and are almost uninhabited; those called Beering's and Copper islands, the Aleutian islands, and Fox islands, or Lyffe Ostrova, lie almost directly east, stretching nearly to 230° of longitude east from Ferro. The Kamtschatka-first project of making discoveries in that tempestuous sea which lies between Kamtschatka and America was set on foot by Peter the Great of Russia. Captains Beering and Tschirikoff were employed in the undertaking; the former of whom was shipwrecked and died on the island which is still called by his name. As this lies at no great distance from Kamtschatka, the inhabitants of the latter soon ventured over to it, as the fowls and other animals of that kind were accustomed to resort thither in great numbers.

Mednoi Ostroff, or Copper island, which lies in full copper sight of Beering's island, was next visited. This island derives its name from the great quantity of copper with which the north-east coast of it abounds, the only fief which is known to the Russians. It is washed up by the sea, and covers the shores in such abundance that many ships might be loaded with it. Perhaps an India trader might make a profitable voyage from thence to China, where this metal is in high demand. This copper is mostly in a metallic or malleable state, and many pieces seem as if they had formerly been in fusion. The island is not high; but has many hillocks, each of which has the appearance of having formerly been a volcano. With this kind of hillocks all the islands in the sea of Kamtschatka abound, insomuch that not a single island, though ever so small, was found without one; and many of them consisted of nothing else. In short, all the chain of islands above mentioned may without any stretch of imagination be considered as thrown up by some late volcanoes. The apparent novelty of everything seems to justify this conjecture; nor can any objection be derived from the vegetable productions with which these islands abound; for the summer after the lower district of Zutphen in Holland was gained from the sea, it was covered over with wild mustard.—All these islands are subject to frequent and violent earthquakes, and abound in sulphur. We are not informed whether any lava is found upon them; but a partly-coloured stone as heavy as iron, probably a lava, is mentioned as being found there. From this account it is by no means improbable that the copper above mentioned has been melted in some eruption.

Beering's island is situated east from Kamtschatka, in Beering's the 18th degree of longitude; and Copper island about one degree more to the eastward, and in the latitude of the Aleutian islands. The former is from 70 to 80 versts long, and stretches from north-west to south-east in the same direction as Copper island. The latter is about 50 versts in length. About 300 versts east by south of Copper island lie the Aleutian islands; of which Attak is the nearest: it is rather larger than Beering's island, and stretches from west to south-east. From thence about 20 versts eastward is situated Semithi, extending from west to east; and near its extremity another small island. To the south of the strait which separates the two latter islands, and at the distance of 40 versts from both of them, lies Shimiya in a similar position, and not above 25 versts in length. All these islands lie between 54 and 55 degrees of north latitude.

The Fox islands are situated east-north-east from the Fox islands. Aleutians: the nearest of these, Atchak, is about 800 versts distant; it lies in 56° north latitude, and extends from west-south-west towards east-north-east. It greatly resembles KAM

Kamchatka resembles Copper island, and is provided with a commodious harbour on the north. From thence all the other islands of this chain stretch in a direction towards north-east by east. The next to Atchak is Amilak, and about 15 versts distant; it is nearly of the same size, and has a harbour on its south side. Next follows Sagagamak, at about the same distance, but somewhat smaller; from thence is 50 versts to Amuchta, a small rocky island; and the latter to Yunakkan, another small island. About 20 versts from Yunakkan there is a cluster of five small islands, or rather mountains, Kigalgift, Kagamila, Tfigulac, Ulaga, and Tana-Unok; and which are therefore called by the Ruffians Pat Sopki, or the Five Mountains. Of these Tana-Unok lies most to the north-east, towards which the western point of Umnak advances within the distance of 20 versts.

Umnak stretches from south-west to north-east; it is 150 versts in length, and has a very considerable bay on the west end of the northern coast, in which there is a small island, or rock, called Adugak; and on the south side Shemalga, another rock. The western point of Aghunalahka, or Unalahka, is separated from the east end of Umnak by a strait near 20 versts in breadth. The position of these two islands is similar; but Aghunalahka is much the largest, and is above 200 versts long. It is divided towards the north-east into three promontories, one of which runs out in a westerly direction, forming one side of a large bay on the north coast of the island; the second stretches out north-east, ends in three points, and is connected with the island by a small neck of land. The third, or most southerly one, is separated from the last mentioned promontory by a deep bay. Near Unalahka towards the east lies another small island called Shirkin. About 20 versts from the north-east promontory of Aghunalahka lie four islands: the first, Akutan, is about half as big as Umnak; a verst further is the small island Akun; a little beyond is Akunok; and lastly, Kigalgia, which is the smallest of these four; and stretches with Akun and Akunok almost from north to south. Kigalgia is situated about the 61st degree of latitude. About 100 versts from thence lies an island called Unmak, upon which a Ruffian navigator (Captain Krenitzin) wintered; and beyond it the inhabitants said there was a large tract of country called Alafisha, of which they did not know the boundaries.

The Fox islands are in general very rocky, without containing any remarkably high mountains: they are destitute of wood; but abound in rivulets and lakes, which are mostly without fish. The winter is much milder than in Siberia; the snow seldom falls before the beginning of January, and continues on the ground till the end of March. There is a volcano in Amuchta, and sulphur is produced on another island; in some others are springs hot enough to boil provisions. Sulphurous flames are also sometimes seen at night upon the mountains of Unalahka and Akutan.

The Fox islands are tolerably populous in proportion to their size. The inhabitants are entirely free, and pay tribute to no one; they are of a middle stature, and live, both in summer and winter, in holes dug in the earth. No signs of religion were found among them. Several persons indeed pass for sorcerers, pretending to know things past and to come; and are accordingly held in high esteem, but without receiving any emolument. Filial duty and respect towards the aged are not held in estimation by these islanders. They are not, however, deficient in fidelity towards each other; they are of a lively and cheerful temper, though rather impetuous, and naturally prone to anger. In general, they do not observe any rules of decency; but follow all the calls of nature publicly and without the least reserve. Their principal food consists in fish, and other sea animals, small shell fish, and sea plants; their greatest delicacies are wild lilies and other roots, together with different kinds of berries. When they have laid in a store of provisions, they eat at any time of the day without distinction; but in case of necessity, they are capable of fasting several days together. They seldom heat their dwellings: but when they are deficient of warming themselves, they light a bundle of hay, and stand over it; or else they set fire to train oil, which they pour into a hollow stone. They feed their children when very young with the coarsest flesh, and for the most part raw. If an infant cries, the mother immediately carries it to the sea side, and, be it summer or winter, holds it naked in the water until it is quiet. This custom, it is said, is so far from doing the children any harm, that it hardens them against the cold; and accordingly they go barefooted through the winter without the least inconvenience. They are also trained to bathe frequently in the sea; and it is an opinion generally received among the islanders, that by these means they are rendered bold and fortunate in fishing.

The men wear shirts made of the skins of cormorants, sea-divers, and gulls; and in order to keep out the rain, they have upper garments of the bladders and other intestines of sea-lions, sea-calves, and whales, blown up and dried. They cut their hair in a circular form quite close to their ears; and shave also a round place on the top. The women, on the contrary, let the hair descend over the forehead as low as the eyebrows, and tie the remaining part in a knot upon the top of the head. They pierce the ears, and hang in them bits of coral, which they get from the Ruffians. Both sexes make holes in the gristles of their noses, and in the under lips, in which they thrust pieces of bone, and are very fond of such kind of ornaments. They mark also and colour their faces with different figures. They barter among one another sea-otters, sea-bears, clothes made of birds' skins and of dried intestines, skins of sea-lions and sea-calves for the coverings of their canoes, wooden malks, darts, thread made of sinews and hair of rein deer.

Their household utensils are square pitchers and large troughs, which they make out of the wood driven ashore by the sea. Their weapons are bows and arrows pointed with flint, and javelins of two yards in length, which they throw from a small board. Instead of hatchets, they use crooked knives of flint or bone. Some iron knives, hatchets, and lances, were observed among them, which they had probably got by plundering the Ruffians.

According to the reports of the oldest inhabitants of Umnak and Unalahka, they have never been engaged in any war, either amongst themselves or with their neighbours, except with the people of Alafisha, the occasion of which was as follows: The son of the toigon Kamtschatkoan or chief of Umnak had a maimed hand; and some inhabitants of Alatka, who came to visit upon that island, fastened to his arm a drum, out of mockery, and invited him to dance. The parents and relations of the boy were offended at this insult: hence a quarrel ensued; and from that time the people have lived in continual enmity, attacking and plundering each other by turns. According to the reports of the islanders, there are mountains upon Alatka, and woods of great extent at some distance from the coast. The natives wear clothes made of the skins of rein-deer, wolves, and foxes, and are not tributary to any of their neighbours. The inhabitants of the Fox islands seem to have no knowledge of any country beyond Alatka, which is one of the most easterly islands yet discovered in these seas, and is probably not far distant from the continent of America.

Feasts are very common among these islanders; and more particularly when the inhabitants of one island are visited by those of the others. The men of the village meet their guests, beating drums, and preceded by the women who sing and dance. At the conclusion of the dance, the hosts invite them to partake of the feasts; after which ceremony, the former return first to their dwellings, place mats in order, and serve up their best provision. The guests next enter, take their places, and, after they are satisfied, the diversions begin. First, the children dance and caper, at the same time making a noise with their small drums, while the owners of the huts of both sexes sing. Next, the men dance almost naked, tripping after one another, and beating drums of a larger size: when they are weary, they are relieved by the women, who dance in their clothes, the men continuing in the mean time to sing and beat their drums. At last the fire is put out which had been kindled for the ceremony. The manner of obtaining fire is by rubbing two pieces of dry wood against each other, or most commonly by striking two flints together, and letting the sparks fall upon some sea otter's hair mixed with sulphur. If any sorcerer is present, it is then his turn to play his tricks in the dark; if not, the guests immediately retire to their huts, which are made on that occasion, of their canoes and mats. The natives who have several wives do not withhold them from their guests; but where the owner of the hut has himself but one wife, he then makes the offer of a female servant.

The hunting season is principally from the end of October to the beginning of December; during which time they kill great numbers of young sea bears for their clothing. They pass all December in feasting and diversions similar to those above mentioned; with this difference, however, that the men dance in wooden masks, representing various sea animals, and painted red, green, or black, with coarse coloured earths found upon their islands.

During these festivals, they visit each other from village to village, and from island to island. The feasts concluded, masks and drums are broken to pieces, or deposited in caverns among the rocks, and never afterwards made use of. In spring they go out to kill old sea bears, sea lions, and whales. During summer, and even in winter when it is calm, they row out to sea, and catch cod and other fish. Their hooks are of bone; and for lines they make use of a string made of a long tenacious sea-weed, which is sometimes found in those Kamtschatka seas near 160 yards in length.

Whenever they are wounded in any encounter, or bruised by any accident, they apply a sort of yellow root to the wound, and fast for some time. When their head aches, they open a vein in that part with a stone lancet. When they want to glue the points of their arrows to the shafts, they strike their nose till it bleeds, and use the blood as glue.

Murder is not punished among them; for they have no judge. The following ceremonies are used in the burial of the dead. The bodies of poor people are wrapped up in their own clothes, or in mats; then laid in a grave, and covered over with earth. The bodies of the rich are put, together with their clothes and arms, in a small boat made of the wood driven ashore by the sea: this boat is hung upon poles placed crosswise; and the body is thus left to rot in the open air.

The customs and manners of the inhabitants of the Aleutian isles are nearly similar to those of the inhabitants of the Fox islands. The former indeed are rendered tributary, and entirely subject to Russia; and most of them have a slight acquaintance with the Russian language, which they have learned from the crews of the different vessels who have landed there.