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PAGO

Volume 15 · 1,322 words · 1815 Edition

an island in the gulf of Venice, separated from the continent of Morlachia by a narrow channel. The ancient geographers have left us no description of it: though (as Fortis observes) its form (A), extent, and rich produce, unquestionably deserved it." And this

*(A) Its figure is indeed remarkably irregular, its breadth being in no proportion to its length; for one of the extremities, called Punta di Loni, is above ten miles long, and less than one broad. Almost all the circumference is- this is the more unaccountable, as we know the Romans were well acquainted with it; and on the other islands adjoining to it are many vestiges of buildings, inscriptions, tiles, and hewn stones, all sure signs of Roman habitations. Its ancient name was in all probability Portunata. "This island (says Mr Fortis*) is extended from north to south over against maritime Croatia, or the mountain Murlacca. It is about 50 miles long; its breadth is unequal. One particular circumstance distinguishes it from all the other islands of the Adriatic, and is a large internal salt-water lake 15 miles long from south to north, into which the sea enters by a canal not above a quarter of a mile broad in some places. This lake is frequented by the tunny fish, which, when once in, cannot return again to the sea. There are also two smaller lakes on the island; one near Vlafich, abounding in fish, particularly eels; and one near the hamlet of Slabine.

"In this island the winter is dreadfully cold, and the summer scorchingly hot. Those who have been there in the winter time speak of it as a Siberia quite covered with snow and ice, and always exposed to the cold north wind; I, who was there in the hot season, thought it equal to the most scorching parts of the world. The naked rocks, which not only form the organization, but also the superficies of almost all the island; the narrowness of the valleys; the reverberation of the water of the lake, generally quite calm in summer; multiply the heat so prodigiously among those stones, that the vines, which are planted all round the lake, ripen their grapes by the beginning of August; and the other products that grow there anticipate the usual time of maturity in the same manner. The meteors are exceedingly irregular in the summer time; sudden whirlwinds are frequent, and heavy showers of rain: the last are hurtful to the inhabitants of one part of the island, and are favourable to the cultivation of the opposite end.

"They cultivate neither corn nor oil on this island; but it produces plenty of wine, and an immense quantity of salt. The other products are wool, honey, and a little salt fish. The quantity of wine amounts annually, on a medium, to 40,000 Venetian barrels; and from the hulks, they distil 2000 barrels of rabis or brandy. The salt, in 1663, amounted to 800,000 Venetian flares. The salt-works are well contrived and well kept: they extend along a shallow pool, which forms the eastern extremity of the lake within for four miles in length and about half a mile in breadth. On the sides of this fen the best part of the vines lie; but the upper part of the hills on each side is altogether naked and barren; there is not even a sufficiency of fire-wood, and the inhabitants are obliged to provide themselves elsewhere. The soil at the foot of the hills, where the vines are planted, is full of gravel and small stones; and hence the wine is of good quality. The air is not unhealthful, notwithstanding the vicinity of the salt pits; but the frequent high winds carry off the noxious exhalations. The most considerable product of the island is the salt. The greatest part of the people of Pago live by working in the salt pits, and have a comfortable subsistence regularly paid by the government: it is therefore a very important circumstance for the inhabitants of the city to have a dry summer; and hence the ignorant vulgar look upon rain as a mischief brought upon the country by the force of witchcraft. In consequence of this idea, they elect a friar to exorcise the meteors, and keep the rain off the island. If, notwithstanding the poor friar's endeavours, the summer happens to be rainy, he loses his reputation and his bread; but if two or three dry seasons follow successively, he meets with great reverence and advantage. Part of the salt works belongs to the government, and the rest to private proprietors; they are meliorated every year; and for that end the public lends money to those proprietors who want it, and who without that assistance could not make the requisite improvements.

"Many vestiges of ancient habitations still remain on the island of Pago, as well as of walled places, which either have been destroyed by the incursions of enemies or by time. Historians say that the island was often abandoned by its inhabitants; and indeed it is rather to be wondered at how men ever could resolve to settle in so wretched a country. The small number of inhabitants, after so many years of peace and tranquillity under the Venetian government, evidently proves how little the island is really habitable. The town of Pago was built by the Venetians about 300 years ago; and contains upwards of 2000 inhabitants, and all the rest of the island scarcely 900. The difficulty of access to the city of Pago, and the ill accommodation that strangers meet with, make it very little frequented. Hence the inhabitants are as wild and unpolished as if they lay at the greatest distance from the sea and the commerce of polite people. The gentry, who pretend to show their manners different from those of the vulgar, are truly grotesque figures, both in their dress, behaviour, and insolent pretensions. The ignorance of their clergy is incredible; a priest of the greatest consequence there, and who was thought a man of learning, did not know how Pago was called in Latin. There are two convents of friars in Pago and one of nuns; and several churches, all in very bad order, and ill served. At Terra Vecchia also there is a convent of Franciscan monks; a race of men who, under various names and disguises, infest every place where credulous ignorance can be persuaded to maintain the idle and superstitious. One superstitious custom,

is dismal, without trees or any kind of visible plants or grass, steep, craggy, and uninhabited. On entering the lake through the channel that communicates with the sea, nothing is to be seen either on the right or left but bare hanging rocks, so disguised on the outside by the violent percussion of the waves, that the stratification is hardly distinguishable. In general, the stone of the island is of the same kind as the Ilirian, or breccia; and, besides, there are large strata of blue and yellowish sandstone. The channel, or inward bay of Pago, is not a harbour; on the contrary, it is a very dangerous station, and even inaccessible in winter, when the north wind blows with such fury, that the inhabitants of the town dare not stir out of their houses, and much less the few that are scattered over the country. The sky appears always cloudy in that season, by the thick mist that arises from the repercussion of the waves on that long chain of rough and hollow rocks. custom, amongst a variety of others, exists among their women, and particularly among those who have been married but a short time: if their husband happens to die, they tear their hair out in good earnest, and scatter it on the coffin; and this ceremony is so much consecrated by custom, that no woman, even though she had notoriously hated her husband, would fail in performing it."