Home1815 Edition

PERFUME

Volume 16 · 552 words · 1815 Edition

denotes either the volatile effluvia from any body affecting the organ of smelling, or the substance emitting those effluvia; in which last sense the word is most commonly used. The generality of perfumes are made up of musk, ambergris, civet, rose and cedar woods, orange-flowers, jessamines, jonquils, tuberoses, and other odoriferous flowers. Those drugs commonly called aromatics, such as storax, frankincense, benzoin, cloves, mace, &c. enter the composition of a perfume; some are also composed of aromatic herbs or leaves, as lavender, marjoram, sage, thyme, hyssop, &c.

The use of perfumes was frequent among the Hebrews, and among the orientals in general, before it was known to the Greeks and Romans. In the time of Moses perfumes must have been known in Egypt, since he speaks of the art of the perfumer, and gives the composition of two kinds of perfumes (Exod. xxx. 25.), of which one was to be offered to the Lord upon the golden altar which was in the holy place; and the other was appointed for the anointing of the high priest and his sons (ibid. 34., &c.) as also of the tabernacle, and all the vessels that were used in divine service.

The Hebrews had also perfumes which they made use of in embalming their dead. The composition is not known, but it is certain that they generally made use of myrrh, aloes, and other strong and astringent drugs, proper to prevent putrefaction (John xix. 40.). See the article Embalming.

Besides the perfumes for these purposes, the Scripture mentions other occasions whereon the Hebrews used perfumes. The spouse in the Canticles (i. 3.) commends the scent of the perfumes of her lover; and her lover in return says, that the scent of the perfumes of his spouse surpasses the most excellent odours (id. iv. 10—14.). He names particularly the spikenard, the calamus, the cinnamon, the myrrh, and the aloes, as making a part of these perfumes. The voluptuous woman described by Solomon (Prov. vii. 17.) says, that she had perfumed her bed with myrrh, aloes, and cinnamon. The epicures in the book of Wisdom (ii. 7.) encourage one another to the luxuriant use of odours and costly perfumes.

Isaiah (liv. 9.) reproaches Judea, whom he describes as a spouse faithless to God, with being painted and perfumed to please strangers, "Thou wentest to the king with ointment, and didst increase thy perfumes." Ezekiel (xxiii. 41.) seems to accuse the Jews with having profaned the odours and perfumes, the use of which was reserved to sacred things, by applying them to their own use.

They came afterwards to be very common among the Greeks and Romans, especially those composed of musk, ambergris, and civet. The nardus and malobathrum were held in much estimation, and were imported from Syria. The unguentum nardinum was variously prepared, and contained many ingredients. Malobathrum was an Indian plant. Perfumes were also used at sacrifices to regale the gods; at feasts, to increase the pleasures of sensation; at funerals, to overpower cadaverous smells, and please the manes of the dead; and in the theatres, to prevent the offensive effluvia, proceeding from a crowd, from being perceived.

Since people are become sensible of the harm they do to the head, perfumes are generally diffused among us; however, they are still common in Spain and Italy.