Home1815 Edition

PISA

Volume 16 · 1,202 words · 1815 Edition

a large town of Tuscany in Italy, situated on the river Arno, 52 miles from Florence. It was a famous republic, till subdued, first by the duke of Milan, and then by the Florentines in the year 1406. Before it lost its freedom, it is said to have contained near 150,000 inhabitants, but now it has not above 16,000 or 17,000. It was founded we are told by the Pisans of Peloponnesus, and afterwards became one of the 12 municipia of Tuscany. Its neighbourhood to Leghorn, which is now the chief port in the Mediterranean, though formerly of little or no note for trade, has contributed greatly to the decay of Pisa, which, however, begins to lift up its head again, under the auspices of the present grand duke, who has made it his winter residence. Between Pisa and Leghorn is a canal 16 Italian miles in length.—Its territory is very fruitful; abounding in corn, wine, and fruit, and fine cattle. The houses are well built, and the streets even, broad, and well paved; but in many places overrun with grass. The university is well endowed, and has able professors, but is not in a very flourishing condition. The exchange is a flately structure, but little frequented. The grand duke's galleys are built, and commonly stationed here. This city is also the principal residence of the order of St Stephen, and the see of an archbishop. The cathedral, a large Gothic pile, contains a great number of excellent paintings and other curiosities. This church is dedicated to St Mary; is very advantageously situated in the middle of a large piazza, and built out of a great heap of wrought marble, such as pillars, pedestals, capitals, cornices, and architraves, part of the spoils which the Pisans took in their eastern expeditions, when the republic was in a flourishing condition. The roof is supported by 76 high marble pillars of different colours, and finely gilt. Both the church and the cupola are covered with lead. The choir is painted by good hands, and the floor is mosaic work. The brazen doors are curiously wrought with the history of the Old and New Testament, by Bonanno, an ancient statuary. The chapel of St Rainerius is richly adorned with gilt metals, columns of porphyry, and fine paintings. In the middle of the nave of the church you see two brazen tombs, raised upon pillars. The marble pulpit was carved by John Pifano, and the choir by Julian da Majana. Joining thereto is the altar, over which is preserved a hollow globe or vessel of marble, wherein they kept the sacrament for the new-baptized, according to the opinion of Father Mabillon. In the square before the church, you see a pillar upon which is the measure of the ancient Roman talent. In the same square with the dome, stands the baptistery, a round fabric supported by flately pillars, and remarkable for a very extraordinary echo.

On the north side of the cathedral is the burying-place, called Campo Santo, being covered with earth brought from the Holy Land. This burying-place is inclosed with a broad portico, well painted, and paved with grave stones. Here are a great many ancient tombs, among the rest that of Beatriz, mother of the countess Mathilda, with marble basso-relievos, which the Pisans brought from Greece, where you see the hunt of Meleager, which assisted Nicholas of Pisa in the restoration of sculpture. The walls of the Campo Santo are painted by the best masters of their times. Giotto has drawn six historical pieces of Job; and Andrea Orgagna has given a fine piece of the last judgment. Under the portico there is a decree of the city, ordering the inhabitants to wear mourning a year for the death of Caesar. Near the church you see a steeple in the form of a cylinder, to which you ascend by 153 steps; it inclines 15 feet on one side, which some ascribe to art, but others to the sinking of the foundation. Its inclination is so great that a plumb-line let fall from the top touches the ground at the distance of almost 15 feet from the bottom. It was built by John of Iniprucc and Bonanno of Pisa, in 1174. Near this steeple is a fine hospital, dependent on that of St Maria Nuova in Florence.

The steeple of the church of the Augustinians is also very fine, being an octagon, adorned with pillars, and built by Nicholas of Pisa. In the great market-place there is a statue of Plenty, by Pierino da Vinci. In the church of St Matthew, the painting of the ceiling by the brothers Melani, natives of this city, is an admired performance. The church of the knights of St Stephen, decorated with the trophies taken from the Saracens, is all of marble, with marble steps, and a front adorned with marble statues. In the square there is a statue of Cosmo I. upon a very fine pedestal. Contiguous to the church is the convent or palace of the knights, which is worth seeing, as also the churches Della Madonna and Della Spina; the last of which was built by a beggar, whose figure you may see on the outside of the wall. It is pretended that one of the thorns of the crown which was placed on our Saviour's head is preserved here. Belonging to the university there is a great number of colleges, the chief of which is the Sapienza, where the professors read their public lectures; next to which are the colleges Puteano, Ferdinando, Ricci, and others. Besides the public palace, and that of the grand duke, there are several others with marble fronts, the finest of which is that of Lanfranchi, which, with the rest along the banks of the Arno, makes a very fine appearance.

There is here a good dock, where they build the galleys, which are conveyed by the Arno to Leghorn. They have a famous aqueduct in this town, consisting of 5000 arches, which conveys the water from the hills at five miles distance. This water is esteemed the best in Italy, and is carried in flasks to Florence and Leghorn. The neighbouring country produces great store of corn and wine, but the latter is not much esteemed. They have very good butter in this neighbourhood, which is a scarce commodity in Italy. The city for its defence has a moat, walls, a castle, fort, and citadel; the last of which is a modern work. The Arno is of a considerable breadth here, and has three bridges over it, one of them of marble: two leagues below the town it falls into the sea. The physic-garden is very spacious, contains a great number of plants, and is decorated with waterworks: over the door leading into it are these words, Hic Argus sed non Briareus est: i.e. "Employ the eyes of Argus, but not the hands of Briareus." The air is said to be unwholesome here in summer, on account of the neighbouring marshes. Many buffaloes are bred in the neighbouring country, and their flesh is commonly eaten. Between Pisa and Lucca are hot baths. E. Long. 10° 17'. N. Lat. 43° 43'.