d safe, that Columbus, who first discovered it, gave it the name of Porto-Bello, or the "Fine Harbour," which is now commonly used to denote the town. The number of the houses is about 150; most of them of wood, large and spacious, forming one long street along the strand, with other smaller ones crossing it. The governor of the town is always a gentleman of the army, subordinate to the president of Panama; but having under him the commandants of the forts that defend the harbour. At the east end of the town, on the road to Panama, is a place called Guinea, where all the negroes of both sexes, whether slaves or free, have their habitations. This place is very much crowded when the galleons are here, most of the inhabitants of the town quitting their houses entirely for the sake of letting them; while others content themselves with a small part, in order to make money of the rest. The Mulattoes and other poor families also remove either to Guinea, or to cottages already erected near it, or built on the occasion. Great numbers of artificers likewise who flock to Porto-Bello from Panama to work at their respective callings during the fair, lodge in Guinea for cheapness. Towards the sea, in a large tract between the town and Gloria castle, barracks are erected, in most of which the ships crews keep stalls of sweat-meats, and other kinds of eatables, brought from Spain; but at the conclusion of the fair, when the ships put to sea, all these buildings are taken down, and the town returns to its former tranquillity and emptiness. In 1739, the harbour was defended by a castle and two forts; which were all demolished by Admiral Vernon, who, with six ships only, made himself master of this part. The country about Porto-Bello is overrun with mountains and impenetrable forests, except a few valleys, in which are some scattered farms. Among the mountains that surround the harbour is one distinguished by the name of Capira, and by its superior loftiness is a sort of barometer to the country, by foretelling every change of weather. Its top is always covered with clouds, of a density and darkness seldom seen in those of the atmosphere. When these clouds thicken, increase their blackness, and sink below their usual station, it is a sure sign of a tempest; while, on the other hand, their clearness and absence certainly indicate the approach of fair weather. These changes are very sudden and frequent here. The summit of the mountain is scarce ever clear from clouds; and when it happens, it is only, as it were, for an instant. Except in the time of the fair, all the inhabitants of Porto-Bello do not amount to 3000; half of whom are Indians, Mulattoes, or Negroes; the Spaniards of any substance not choosing to reside in a place so extremely unhealthy, and fatal even to the lives of the natives. Ulloa tells us, that the cattle brought down hither from Panama or Cartagena, lose their flesh so fast in the best pastures, as to become scarce eatable: he assures us also, that neither horses nor asses are bred here. The heat, indeed, is excessive; and the torrents of rain are so dreadful, sudden, and impetuous, that one not accustomed to them, would imagine a second deluge was coming. These torrents are also accompanied with frightful tempests of thunder and lightning, the awfulness of the scene being heightened by the reverberations from the mountains, and the shrieks and howlings of multitudes of monkeys of all kinds which inhabit the surrounding woods.
Fresh water pours down in streams from the mountains, some running without the town, and others crossing it. These waters are very light and digestive; qualities which in other countries would be very valuable, but are here pernicious, producing dysenteries, which the patient seldom survives. However, these rivulets, formed into reservoirs, serve the purposes of bathing, which is here found to be very conducive to health.
As the forests almost border on the houses of the town, tygers often make incursions into the streets during the night, carrying off fowls, dogs, and other domestic animals, and sometimes even children have fallen a prey to them. Besides the snares usually laid for them, the Negroes and Mulattoes, who fell wood in the forests of the mountains, are very dexterous in encountering them; and some, for a slender reward, even seek them in their retreats.
The town of Porto-Bello, which is thinly inhabited by reason of its noxious air, the scarcity of provisions, and the barrenness of the soil, becomes, after the arrival of the galleons, one of the most populous towns in the world. He who had seen it quite empty, and every place wearing a melancholy aspect, would be filled with astonishment to see the bustling multitudes in the time of the fair, when every house is crowded, the squares and streets encumbered with bales of merchandise and chests of gold and silver, the harbour full of ships and vessels, some loaded with provisions from Carthagena, and others with the goods of Peru, as cocoa, Jesuit's bark, vicuna wool, and bezoar stones; and this town, at all other times detested for its deleterious qualities, becomes the staple of the riches of the Old and New World, and the scene of one of the most considerable branches of trade in the universe. Formerly the fair was limited to no particular time; but as a long stay in such a sickly place extremely affected the health of the traders, his Catholic majesty transmitted an order that the fair should not last above 40 days; and that, if in that time the merchants could not agree on their rates, those of Spain should be allowed to carry their goods up the country to Peru; and accordingly, the commodore of the galleons has orders to re-embark them, and return to Carthagena; but otherwise, by virtue of a compact between the merchants of both kingdoms, and ratified by the king, no Spanish trader is to lend his goods, on his own account, beyond Porto-Bello. The English were formerly allowed to send a ship annually to this fair, which turned to great account; and, while the affront contract subsisted, either with the English or the French, one of their principal factories was at Porto-Bello.