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SEGOVIA

Volume 19 · 1,025 words · 1815 Edition

an ancient city of Spain, of great power in the time of the Caesars, is built upon two hills near the banks of the Arayda in Old Castile. W. Long. 3. 48. N. Lat. 41. o. It is still a bishop's fee, and is distinguished for some venerable remains of antiquity. In the year 1525 the city contained 5000 families, but now they do not surpass 2000, a scanty population for 25 parishes; yet, beside 27 churches and a cathedral, there are 21 convents.

The first object in Segovia that attracts the eye is the aqueduct, which the singular situation of the city renders necessary. As it is built upon two hills, and the valley by which they are separated, and extends considerably in every direction, it was difficult for a part of the citizens to be supplied with water. The difficulty was removed, according to the opinion of the learned, in the reign of Trajan, by this aqueduct, which is one of the most astonishing and the best preserved of the Roman works. In the opinion of Mr Swinburne, who surveyed it in 1776, and who seems to have given a very accurate account of the curiosities of Segovia, it is superior in elegance of proportion to the Pont du Gard at Nimes. It is so perfectly well preserved, that it does not seem leaky in any part. From the first low arches to the reservoir in the town, its length is 2400 Spanish feet; its greatest height (in the Plaza del Azo- bejo at the foot of the walls) is 104; it is there composed of a double row of arches, built of large square stones without mortar, and over them a hollow wall of coarser materials for the channel of the water, covered with large oblong flags. Of the lower range of arcades, which are 15 feet wide by 65 high, there are 42. The upper arches are 119 in number, their height 27 Spanish feet, their breadth seventeen, the transversal thickness, or depth of the piers, eight feet.

The cathedral is a mixture of the Gothic and Moorish architecture. The inside is very spacious, and of majestic simplicity. The windows are well disposed, and the great altar has been lately decorated with the finest Grenadan marble. But it is to be regretted, that in this cathedral, as well as in most others of Spain, the choir is placed in the middle of the nave. The church is nearly upon the model of the great church of Salamanca, but it is not so highly finished.

The alcazar, or ancient palace of the Moors, stands in one of the finest positions possible, on a rock rising above the open country. A fine river washes the foot of the precipice, and the city lies admirably well on each side on the brow of the hill ; the declivity is woody, and the banks charmingly rural; the snowy mountains and dark forests of Saint Ildefonso compose an awful back-ground to the picture. Towards the town there is a large court before the great outward tower, which, as the prison of Gil Blas, is so well described by Le Sage, that the subject requires no farther explanation. The rest of the buildings form an antique palace, which has seldom been inhabited by any but prisoners since the reign of Ferdinand and Isabella, who were much attached to this situation. There are some magnificent halls in it, with much gilding in the ceilings, in a semi-barbarous taste. All the kings of Spain are seated in state along the cornice of the great falcon; but it is doubtful whether they are like the princes whose names they bear; if that resemblance, however, be wanting, they have no other merit to claim. The royal apartments are now occupied by a college of young gentlemen cadets, educated at the king's expence in all the sciences requisite for forming an engineer. The grandmaster of the ordnance resides at Segovia, which is the head establishment of the Spanish artillery.

The mint is below the alcazar, a large building, the most ancient place of coinage in the kingdom. The machines for melting, stamping, and milling the coin, are worked by water: but there is reason to believe that Seville has at present more business, as being nearer the source of riches, the port of Cadiz, where the ingots of America are landed.

The unevenness of the crown of the hill gives a wild look to this city. Most of the streets are crooked and dirty, the houses wooden and very wretched; nor do the inhabitants appear much the richer for their cloth manufactory. Indeed, it is not in a very flourishing condition, but what cloth they make is very fine.

The country about Segovia has the reputation of being the best for rearing the kind of sheep that produces the beautiful Spanish wool; but as those flocks wander over many other parts of the kingdom, Segovia seems to have no exclusive title to this reputation. Segovia (says Mr Townend, whose valuable travels will be read with much pleasure) was once famous for its cloth made on the king's account; but other nations have since become rivals in this branch, and the manufacture in this city has been gradually declining. When the king gave it up to a private company, he left about 3000l. in trade; but now he is no longer a partner in the business. In the year 1612 were made here 25,500 pieces of cloth, which consumed 44,625 quintals of wool, employed 34,189 persons; but at present they make only about 4000 pieces. The principal imperfections of this cloth are, that the thread is not even, and that much grease remains in it when it is delivered to the dyer; in consequence of which the colour is apt to fail. Yet, independently of imperfections, so many are the disadvantages under which the manufacture labours, that foreigners can afford to pay 3l. for the arroba of fine wool, for which the Spaniard gives no more than 20s. and after all his charges can command the market even in the ports of Spain.