Home1815 Edition

SKYE

Volume 19 · 2,015 words · 1815 Edition

one of the greatest of the Western islands of Scotland, so called from Skianach, which in the Erle dialect signifies winged, because the two promontories of Valernef and Toternish, by which it is bounded on the north-west and north-east, are supposed to resemble wings. The island lies between the thire of Rois and the western part of Lewis. According to the computation of Mr Pennant, Dr Johnson, and Dr Campbell, it is 60 miles in length, and nearly the same in width where broadest; according to others it is 50 miles in length, and in some places 30 broad. The island of Skye was formerly divided between two proprietors; the southern part belonged to the laird of Macleod, said to be lineally descended from Leod son to the black prince of Man, but part of this division has fallen into other hands: the northern district is the property of Lord Macdonald, whose ancestor was Donald, king or lord of the isles, and chief of the numerous clan of Macdonalds, who are counted the most warlike of all the Highlanders. Skye is part of the shire of Inverness, and formerly belonged to the diocese of the Isles: on the south it is parted from the main land by a channel three leagues in breadth; though, at the ferry of Glenelg, it is so narrow that a man may be heard calling for the boat from one side to the other. Skye is well provided with a variety of excellent bays and harbours.

The face of the country is roughened with mountains, some of which are so high as to be covered with snow on the top at midsummer; in general, their sides are clothed with heath and grass, which afford good pasturage for sheep and black cattle. Between the mountains there are some fertile valleys, and the greater part of the land towards the sea-coast is plain and arable. The island is well watered with a great number of rivers, above 30 of which afford salmon; and some of them produce black mussels in which pearls are bred, particularly the rivers Kilmartin and Ord. Martin was assured by the proprietor of the former, that a pearl hath been found in it valued at 20l. sterling. Here is also a considerable number of fresh-water lakes well stored with trout and eels. The largest of these lakes takes its denomination from St Columba, to whom is dedicated a chapel that stands upon a small isle in the middle of the lake. Skye likewise affords several cataracts, that roar down the rocks with great impetuosity. That the island has been formerly covered with woods, appears from the large trunks of fir and other trees daily dug out of the bogs and peat-marches in every part of the country.

From the height of the hills, and proximity of the sea, the air seldom continues long of the same temperature; sometimes it is dry, oftener moist, and in the latter end of winter and beginning of spring cold and piercing; at an average, three days in twelve throughout the year scarcely free from rain, far less from clouds. These, attracted by the hills, sometimes break in useful and refreshing flowers; at other times suddenly bursting, pour down their contents with tremendous noise, in impetuous torrents that deluge the plains below, and render the smallest rivulet impassable; which, together with the stormy winds so common in this country in the months of August and September, frequently blast the hopes, and disappoint the expectations, of the husbandman. Snow has been often known to lie on the ground from three to seven weeks; and on the highest hills, even in the middle of June, some spots of it are to be seen. To this various temperature of the air, and uncertainty of weather, the fevers and agues, headaches, rheumatisms, colds, and dysenteries, which are the prevailing distempers, may be ascribed. That it is far, however, from being unwholesome, is sufficiently evinced by experience; for the inhabitants are, in general, as strong and healthy, and arrive at as advanced an age, as those who live in milder climates, and under a serene sky. The gout is scarcely known in this island.

The soil is generally black, though it likewise affords clay of different colours; such as white, red, and blue, and in some places fuller's earth. It is, however, much less adapted for agriculture than for pasture, and seldom, unless, in very good years, supplies itself with a sufficiency of provisions. Yet, though the soil is not very fertile or rich, it might with proper management be made to produce more plentiful crops. But the generality of the farmers are so prejudiced in favour of old customs, and indeed so little inclined to industry, that they will not easily be prevailed on to change them for better; especially if the alteration or amendment proposed be attended with expense. Therefore, with respect to improvements in agriculture, they are still much in the same state as they were 20 or 30 years ago. Ploughs, on a new and improved model, that in comparison to the advantages derived from them might be had at a moderate expence, have lately been introduced into several districts around, where their good effects are manifest in improving the crops and diminishing the labour of man and beast; but the laird of Raasay and one other gentleman are the only persons in Portree that have used them. The cafsroim, a crooked kind of space, is almost the only instrument for labouring the ground used among the ordinary class of tenants. The average crops of corn are 8000 bolls.

When Mr Knox visited this island in 1786, the number of inhabitants amounted to 15,000; but between 1790-98, according to the Statistical History of Scotland, the population is only 14,470.

Various minerals are found in Skye, but none have been wrought to any advantage. Near the village of Sartle, the natives find black and white marcasites, and variegated pebbles. The Appleglen, in the neighbourhood of Lochfallart, produces beautiful agates of different colours: stones of a purple hue are, after great rains, found in the rivulets: crystal, of different colours and forms, abounds in several parts of the island, as well as black and white marble, freestone, lime-stone, and talc: small red and white coral is found on the southern and western coasts in great abundance. The fuel consists chiefly of peat and turf, which are impregnated with iron ore; and coal has been discovered in several districts; but it does not appear to be worth working.

The wild birds of all sorts most common in the country, are, solan geese, gulls, cormorants, cranes, wild geese, and wild ducks; eagles, crows, ravens, rooks, cuckoos, rails, woodcocks, moor-fowl, partridges, plover, wild pigeons, and blackbirds, owls, hawks, snipes, and a variety of small birds. In mild seasons, the cuckoo and rail appear in the latter end of April; the former disappears always before the end of June; the latter sometimes not till September. The woodcock comes in October, and frequently remains till March. The tame forts of fowl are geese, ducks, turkeys, cocks, pullets, and tame pigeons.

The black cattle are here exposed to all the rigours of the severe winter, without any other provender than the tops of the heath and the alga marina ; so that they appear like mere skeletons in the spring; though, as the grass grows up, they soon become plump and juicy, the beef being sweet, tender, and finely interlarded.—The amphibious animals are seals and otters. Among the reptiles may be reckoned vipers, afs, frogs, toads, and three different kinds of serpents; the first spotted black and white, and very poisonous; the second yellow, with brown spots; and the third of a brown colour, the smallest and least poisonous.

Whales, and caribans or sun-fish, come in sometimes to the sounds after their prey, but are rarely pursued with any success. The fishes commonly caught on the coast are herrings, ling, cod, skate, haddock, mackerel, lythe, fye, and dog-fish. The average price of ling at home is 13l. 13s. per ton; when sold, one by one, if fresh, the price is from 3d. to 5d.; if cured, from 5d. to 7d. The barrel of herrings seldom sells under 10s., which is owing to the great difficulty of procuring salt, even sometimes at any price; and the same cause prevents many from taking more than are sufficient for their own use.

The kyle of Scalpe teems with oysters, in such a manner, that after some spring-tides, 20 horse-loads of them are left upon the sands. Near the village of Bernfhill, the beach yields mussels sufficient to maintain 60 persons per day; this providential supply helps to support many poor families in times of scarcity.

The people are strong, robust, healthy, and prolific. They generally profess the Protestant religion; are honest, brave, innocent, and hospitable. They speak the language, wear the habit, and observe the customs that are common to all the Hebrides. The meconium in new-born infants is purged away with fresh butter: the children are bathed every morning and evening in water, and grow up so strong, that a child of 10 months is able to walk alone: they never wear floes or stockings before the age of eight or ten, and night-caps are hardly known; they keep their feet always wet; they lie on beds of straw or heath, which last is an excellent restorative: they are quick of apprehension, ingenious, and very much addicted to music and poetry. They eat heartily of fish; but seldom regale themselves with flesh-meat: their ordinary food consists of butter, cheese, milk, potatoes, coiwort, brochan, and a dish called oon, which indeed is no other than the froth of boiled milk or whey raised with a stick like that used in making chocolate.

A sort of coarse woollen cloth called cloe, or caddoes, the manufacture of their wives, made into short jackets and trousers, is the common dress of the men. The philibeg is rarely worn, except in summer and on Sundays; on which days, and some other occasions, those in better circumstances appear in tartans, a bonnet, and short hose, and some in a hat, short coat, waistcoat, and breeches, of Scotch or English manufacture. The women are in general very cleanly, and so excessively fond of drefs, that many maid-servants are often known to lay out their whole wages that way.

There are two fairs held annually at Portree, to which almost every part of Skye sends cattle. The first is held in the end of May, and the second in the end of July. The fair commonly continues from Wednesday till the Saturday following. The commodities which are fold in these are horses, cows, sheep, goats, hides, butter, cheese, fish, and wool. The cattle fold in these fairs swim over to the main land through a mile or half a mile of sea. Thousands of these are yearly exported, at from 2l. to 3l. each. Many of them are driven to England, where they are fatted for the market, and counted delicious eating.

In Skye appear many ruins of Danish forts, watch-towers, beacons, temples, and sepulchral monuments. All the forts are known by the term Dun; such as Dun-Skudborg, Dun-Derig, Dun-Skerinefs, Dun-David, &c.

SKY-Colour. To give this colour to glass, set in the furnace a pot of pure metal of fritt from rochetta or barilla, but the rochetta fritt does best; as soon as the metal is well purified, take for a pot of twenty pounds of metal fix ounces of brafs calcined by itself; put it by degrees at two or three times into the metal, stirring and mixing it well every time, and diligently skimming the metal with a ladle: at the end of two hours the whole will be well mixed, and a proof may be taken: if the colour be found right, let the whole stand 24 hours longer in the furnace, and it will then be fit to work, and will prove of a most beautiful sky colour.