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SURF

Volume 20 · 688 words · 1815 Edition

is a term used by seamen to express a peculiar swell and breaking of the sea upon the shore. It sometimes forms but a single range along the shore, and at others three or four behind one another extending perhaps half a mile out to sea. The surf begins to assume its form at some distance from the place where it breaks, gradually accumulating as it moves forward till it gain, not uncommonly, in places within the limits of the trade-winds, a height of 15 or 20 feet, when it overhangs at top, and falls like a cascade with great force and a prodigious noise. Countries where surfs prevail require boats of a particular construction very different from the greater part of those which are built in Europe. In some places surfs are great at high, and in others at low water; but we believe they are uniformly most violent during the spring-tides.

It is not easy to assign the cause of surfs. That they are affected by the winds can hardly be questioned; but that they do not proceed from the immediate operation of the wind in the places where they happen, is evident from this circumstance, that the surf is often highest and most violent where there is least wind, and vice versa. On the coast of Sumatra the highest are experienced during the south-east monsoon, which is never attended with such gales as the north-west. As they are most general in the tropical latitudes, Mr Marlden, who seems to have paid much attention to the subject, attributes them to the trade-winds which prevail at a distance from shore between the parallels of 30 degrees north and south, whose uniform and invariable action causes a long and constant swell, that exists even in the calmest weather, about the line, towards which its direction tends from either side. This swell, when a squall happens or the wind freshens up, will for the time have other subsidiary waves on the extent of its surface, breaking often in a direction contrary to it, and which will again subside as a calm returns, without having pro-

(A) When the Abyssinian slaves are promoted to any office under the Mogul government, they are called Siddees. duced on it any perceptible effect. Sumatra, though not continually exposed to the south-east trade-wind, is not so distant but that its influence may be presumed to extend to it; and accordingly at Poo lo Pefang, near the southern extremity of the island, a constant southerly sea is observed, even after a strong north-west wind. This incessant and powerful swell rolling in from an ocean, open even to the pole, seems an agent adequate to the prodigious effects produced on the coast; whilst its very size contributes to its being overlooked. It reconciles almost all the difficulties which the phenomena seem to present, and in particular it accounts for the decrease of the surf during the north-west monsoon, the local wind then counteracting the operation of the general one; and it is corroborated by an observation, that the surfs on the Sumatran coast ever begin to break at their southern extreme, the motion of the swell not being perpendicular to the direction of the shore. This explanation of the phenomena is certainly plausible; but, as the author candidly acknowledges, objections may be urged to it. The trade-winds and the swell occasioned by them are remarkably steady and uniform; but the surfs are much the reverse. How then comes an uniform cause to produce unsteady effects?

In the opinion of our author it produces no unsteady effects. The irregularity of the surfs, he says, is perceived only within the remoter limits of the trade-winds. But the equatorial parts of the earth performing their diurnal revolution with greater velocity than the rest, a larger circle being described in the same time, the waters thereabout, from the stronger centrifugal force, may be supposed more buoyant; to feel less restraint from the sluggish principle of matter; to have less gravity; and therefore to be more obedient to external impulses of every kind, whether from the winds or any other cause.