See ISATIS, BOTANY Index; see also DYEING.
The preparation of woad for dyeing, as practised in France, is minutely described by Altruc, in his Memoirs for a Natural History of Languedoc. The plant puts forth at first five or fix upright leaves, about a foot long and fix inches broad: when these hang downwards, and turn yellow, they are fit for gathering: five crops are gathered in one year. The leaves are carried directly to a mill, much resembling the oil or tan mills, and ground into a smooth paste. If this process was deferred for some time, they would putrefy, and send forth an insupportable stench. The paste is laid in heaps, pressed close and smooth, and the blackish crust, which forms on the outside, reunited if it happens to crack: if this was neglected, little worms would be produced in the cracks, and the woad would lose a part of its strength. After lying for fifteen days, the heaps are opened, the crust rubbed and mixed with the inside, and the matter formed into oval balls, which are pressed close and solid in wooden moulds. These are dried up on hurdles: in the sun, they turn black on the outside; in a close place, yellowish, especially if the weather be rainy. The dealers in this commodity prefer the first, though it is said the workmen find no considerable difference betwixt the two. The good balls are distinguished by their being weighty, of an agreeable smell, and when rubbed, of a violet colour within. For the use of the dyer, these balls require a farther preparation: they are beat with wooden mallets, on a brick or stone floor, into a gross powder; which is heaped up in the middle of the room to the height of four feet, a space being left for paling round the sides. The powder, moistened with water, ferments, grows hot, and throws out a thick fetid fume. It is shovelled backwards and forwards, and moistened every day for twelve days; after which it is stirred less frequently, without watering, and at length made into a heap for the dyer.