The Piedmontese district is covered with towns, vil- lages, monasteries, &c. and is well peopled, notwithstanding the danger of such a situation; but the fertility of the soil tempts people to inhabit that country; and their superstitions confidence in the saints, with the propensity mankind have to despise danger which they do not see, render them as secure there as in any other place. Here, Sir William Hamilton observes, they keep their vines low, contrary to the custom of those who inhabit Mount Vesuvius; and they produce a stronger wine, but not in such abundance: here also many terrible eruptions have burst forth; particularly one in 1609. At the foot of the mountain raised by that eruption, is a hole, through which Sir William Hamilton descended, by means of a rope, into several subterraneous caverns, branching out, and extending much farther than he chose to venture; the cold there was excessive, and a violent wind extinguished some of the torches. Many other caverns are known in this and the other regions of Aetna; particularly one near this place, called La Spelonca della Palumba, (from the wild pigeons building their nests there). Here Mr Brydone was told that some people had lost their senses, from having advanced too far, imagining they saw devils and damned spirits.
In this region the river Acis, so much celebrated by the poets, in the fable of Acis and Galatea, takes its rise. It bursts out of the earth at once in a large stream, runs with great rapidity, and about a mile from its source throws itself into the sea. Its water is remarkably clear; and so extremely cold, that it is reckoned dangerous to drink it: it is said, however, to have a poisonous quality, from being impregnated with vitriol; in consequence of which cattle have been killed by it. It never freezes, but is said often to contract a greater degree of cold than ice.
The following additional particulars relating to the eruptions, magnitude, scenery, and products of this celebrated volcano, are chiefly collected from the Voyage Pittoresque of M. Houel, who appears to have surveyed it with greater accuracy than any former traveller.
The form of Mount Aetna is that of a cone, very broad at the base, which is more than 40 miles in circumference. From the bottom you ascend ten leagues before reaching its summit on the south side; and on any of the other sides, the way being not so straight, would be considerably longer. Aetna is entirely composed of substances that have been discharged from the volcano in its various explosions.
It appears from the quantities of marine bodies deposited all over the under part of Aetna, that it must have been once covered by the sea to at least one half of its present height. The whole island of Sicily, and the greatest part of Mount Aetna, have been, in our author's opinion, formed under water. But the period when the eruptions from this volcano first commenced, the manner in which the sea subsided, and the precise time at which it fell so low as its present level on the shores of Sicily, are facts concerning which we have no certain knowledge.
The general principle, however, Mr Houel thinks may be regarded as undeniable. When this mountain stood half under water, the currents of the ocean would gradually accumulate upon it large masses, both of its own productions, such as shells, and bones of fishes, and of various other matters, which would be intermixed with the volcanic matters discharged from the focus of the burning mount. In a long series of ages these strata of heterogeneous matters would naturally become so considerable, as to form the enormous mass of mountains with which the volcano is now surrounded. The currents of the ocean might often convey the volcanic matters to a considerable distance from the volcanic focus. And there are mountains at no small distance from Aetna, which seem to have been produced in this manner. Those of Carlini, at the distance of 15 leagues, consist chiefly of a mixture of pozzolana with calcareous matters. At Lintini, and in places around it, there are distinct beds of pozzolana, scorie, and real lava, as well as others in which all these matters are blended together in a mass of calcareous matter. At Palazzolo, about 24 miles from the city of Syracuse, the sides of the hills having been cut by the streams which run down them, in many places to a considerable depth, display huge masses of lava, and extensive beds of pozzolana. In the neighbourhood of Noto there are also volcanic productions to be found.
At Pachino, where the island of Sicily forms an angle, there is a range of hills extending for several miles, which consist all of pozzolana.
The province of Val di Noto is more homogeneous in the matters of which its soil consists, than the two other dales of Sicily. These, in every hill which they contain, exhibit a vast variety of different matters. So amazing, indeed, is that variety, that they may be considered as exhibiting a collection of specimens of all the different materials which enter into the composition of the globe. In those two dales few volcanic productions have been yet observed. But it is not to be inferred for this reason that they contain but few. They may be hereafter discovered in great plenty. In the volcano of water at Maccalubbe, between Aragona and Girginti; in the baths of Castellamare, near Alcamo and Segestè; in the baths of Termini; in the isles of Lipari; in the hot waters of Ali, between Messina and Taormina, by the lake in the valley of Caltagirone; in all these places, which comprehend the whole circumference of Sicily, the influence of the volcano of Aetna is, in some measure, felt. Nay, it would even seem, that in these places there are so many volcanic craters. All of these are so disposed as to show that they existed prior not only to the volcanic matters, but to the other substances intermixed with them.
The waters of the sea have, in former times, risen much higher than at present. But how they retreated, or whether they are to continue stationary at their present height, we know not. For more than 2000 years, during which Sicily has been inhabited, and has had cities and harbours, the sea has not been observed either to recede or encroach in any considerable degree.
When the sea subsided from Mount Aetna, the mountain must have been covered over with such matters as the sea usually deposits; consequently with calcareous matters. A part of those matters would be indurated by the action of the atmosphere, while the rest would be carried down by the rain waters, and again conveyed into the ocean. The torrents of rain water which pour down the sides of Mount Ætna have furrowed its sides, by cutting out for themselves channels; and they have removed from its summit, and are still removing to a further distance, all the extraneous bodies upon it. In many places, they flow at present over a channel of lava, having cut through all the matters which lay above it: still, however, there remain in many places both calcareous matter and other marine productions, which show that this volcano has been once covered by the waters of the ocean. But these are daily wasting away; not only the rains, but men likewise, who carry them off as materials for lime and for building, conspire to deface them.
No fewer than 77 cities, towns, and villages, are scattered over the sides of Ætna. They are most numerous on the south side, where the temperature of the air is milder than on the north. Reckoning those cities, towns, and villages, one with another, to contain each 1200 or 1500 souls, the whole number of the inhabitants of Mount Ætna will then be 92,400, or 115,500. But it is certainly much more considerable.
Plate IV. fig. 1. exhibits a view of the north-east side of the mountain, taken at sea. The lower part presents to the eye very extensive plains entirely covered with lava of different thickness, on which vegetation has not yet made any progress. The nearer the shores the more barren is the ground; while the fertility of the soil increases as we advance farther inwards. The mountain is everywhere full of vast excavations; which our author considers as a proof, that instead of increasing in bulk it is actually in a state of decay and diminution. The vast torrents of lava, which overspread the sides of it from time to time, he considers as insufficient to repair the waste occasioned by rains, rivulets, and torrents flowing down from the summit. Unless the eruptions, therefore, become more frequent than they have been for some time past, he supposes that, by degrees, the height of the mountain must be reduced to that of the surrounding beds of lava. He had not an opportunity of measuring the altitude of Ætna himself; but he observes, that it had been done by the celebrated M. de Saussure, who found the elevation to be 10,036 feet. This was done on the 5th of June 1773, at 20 minutes after seven in the morning. The height of the barometer on the most elevated part at the brink of the crater was 18 inches 11 1/2 lines; which, by the necessary corrections, is reduced to 18 inches 10 1/2 lines. At the same time the mercury at Catania, placed only one foot above the level of the sea, stood at 28 inches 2 1/2 lines; which must be reduced to 28 inches 1 1/2 lines, on account of the necessary correction for the thermometer.
From Giana our author had an opportunity of contemplating the vast number of calcareous mounts scattered over that part of Ætna; which (he says) "are nothing more than fragments, the slender remains of those enormous masses which have been deposited all around the base of Mount Ætna; and are a very curious monument of the revolutions which this mountain has undergone." They are of a true calcareous nature; and the inhabitants are accustomed to supply themselves with limestone from them. They also use stones of which these mounts are composed for the purposes of building; as the lava is so hard that it cannot be cut without the greatest difficulty, and they have no other stone in these parts.
Leaving this place, our author travelled over several extensive plains of lava, covered on each side of the way with stunted trees, but without any cultivation: the lava being of that kind which is very unfavourable to the growth of vegetables. Arriving at St Leonardo, he observed the course of the eruption of water which happened in 1755.
This water took its course down the west side of the Particello mountain: and the channel which it cut for itself is still visible. The eruption of water from burning mountains is still much less frequent than that of lava or half vitrified solid matters, ashes, &c. though that of water, and even mixed with the shells of marine animals (though we are not told whether it was salt or not), has sometimes been observed in other volcanoes, particularly Vesuvius. The eruption we now speak of happened in the month of February 1755. It was preceded by an exceedingly thick black smoke issuing from the crater, intermixed with flashes of fire. This smoke gradually became thicker, and the bursts of flame more frequent. Earthquakes and subterraneous thunder convulsed the mountain, and struck the inhabitants of the adjacent parts with the utmost terror. On Sunday the second of March, the mountain was seen to emit a huge column of smoke, exceedingly dense and black, with a dreadful noise in the bowels of the earth, accompanied also with violent flashes of lightning. From time to time there were loud cracks, like the explosions of cannon; the mountain appeared to shake from its foundations; the air on that side next Mascali became very dark, and loud peals of thunder were heard. These seemed to issue from two caverns, considerably below the summit, on the side of the mountain, and were accompanied with violent blasts of wind like a tempest.
These terrible phenomena continued and increased; Ætna seemed ready to swallow up at once all those materials which it had been for so many years disgorging, or rather about to sink at once into the bowels of the earth from whence it appeared to have been elevated. The prospect was far beyond any idea that can be given by description of this tremendous scene. The inhabitants were alarmed beyond measure; the sight of the flames driven by the winds against the sides of the mountain, the shocks of the earthquake, and the fall of rocks, struck the imagination with a horror not to be conceived. During this dreadful commotion, an immense torrent of water was emitted from the highest crater of the mountain. The whole summit of Ætna was at that time covered with a thick coating of snow. Through this the boiling water directed its course eastward; and, in its passage, met with frightful precipices. Over these it dashed with the utmost violence, adding its tremendous roaring to the complicated horrors of this awful scene. The snow, melting instantaneously as the boiling torrent advanced, increased its destructive power by augmenting its quantity, while the mischievous effects of the heat were scarce diminished, by reason of the immense quantity of boiling liquid which continued to pour from the summit of the mountain.
This boiling torrent having dashed its awful cata- reached the cultivated plains, which it overflowed for a number of miles. Here it divided itself into several branches, forming as many deep and rapid rivers; which, after several other subdivisions, discharged themselves into the sea.
Though the mountain continued to discharge water in this manner only for half an hour, the ravages of it were very terrible. Not only those of common inundations, such as tearing up trees, hurrying along rocks and large stones, took place here, but the still more dreadful effects of boiling water were felt. Every cultivated spot was laid waste, and every thing touched by it was destroyed. Even those who were placed beyond the reach of the torrent, beheld with inexpressible horror the destruction occasioned by it; and though the alarming noises which had so long issued from the mountain now ceased in a great measure, the shocks of earthquakes and the violent smoke which continued to issue from the mountains, showed that the danger was not over. Two new openings were now observed, and two torrents of lava began to make their way through the snow.
On the 7th of March a dreadful noise was again heard in the bowels of the mountain, and a new column of very thick and black smoke began to issue from it. A horrid explosion of small stones succeeded; some of which were carried as far as the hills of Mas-cali, and great quantities of black sand to Messina, and even quite over the strait to Reggio in Calabria. On the shifting of the wind to the northward this sand reached as far as the plains of Agosta. Two days after the mountain opened again, and a new torrent of lava was discharged; which, however, advanced very slowly towards the plain, moving only at the rate of a mile in a day. It continued to flow in this manner for six days, when every thing appeared so quiet, that the Canon Recupero set out to view the changes which had taken place.
That gentleman's design was to trace the course of the dreadful torrent of water above mentioned. This he was very easily enabled to do by the ravages it had made; and, by following the channel it had cut all the way from the sea to the summit of the volcano, he found that this immense quantity of water had issued from the very bowels of the mountain. After issuing from the crater, and increasing its stream by passing through and melting the snow which lay immediately below the summit, it destroyed in an instant a fine and extensive forest of fir-trees. All of these were torn up by the violence of the current, though many were no less than 24 or 30 inches in diameter. He observed that the great stream had, in its descent, divided itself into four branches; and these had again subdivided themselves into several smaller ones, easily distinguishable by the quantity of sand they had deposited. Afterwards reuniting their streams, they formed many islands, and rivers 900 feet in breadth, and of a depth which could not easily be determined. Proceeding farther down, and still forcing its way among the beds of old lava, the channel of the waters was widened to 1500 feet, until it was again contracted in the valleys as before. Every object which stood in the way of this tremendous torrent was moved from its place. Enormous rocks were not only hurried down, but several of them moved to more elevated situations than those they formerly occupied. Whole hills of lava had been removed and broken to pieces, and their fragments scattered along the course of the river, and the valleys were filled up by vast quantities of sand which the waters had deposited. Our author observed, that even at the time he visited the mountain, about ten years after the eruption, the whole side of it still bore the marks of this deluge.
On M. Houel's arrival at Jaci Catena, he inquired for the physician of the place; it being customary for strangers to do so who want to learn anything concerning the curiosities of the country, as the physicians there are generally those who have any pretensions to literature. By this guide he was shown a well which they call Holy Water. There is a flight of steps from the surface of the ground to that of the well. This well itself is 20 feet wide and 40 feet deep. It is supplied by three different springs, each of which is said to have a peculiar taste. The physician informed our author, that one of them resembled milk in its taste; another tasted like soap; and the third had the taste of common water: but our author, after tasting each of them, could not find any remarkable difference.
In his way to La Trizza, our author discovered some very ancient baths with stoves. They had been built here on account of a spring of warm sulphureous water, supposed to be excellent for the cure of cutaneous disorders; and for which purpose they are still made use of. They are now called the Springs of St Venera, of whom there is an image here. The fountain from which they flow is on a level with the surface of the ground. The water tastes very disagreeably of sulphur; and deposits a quantity of white impalpable powder, adhering to herbs and stones over which it passes. This substance our author calls the cream of sulphur; though it is probably a selenitic substance formed by the decomposition of the sulphur, and the union of its acid with some calcareous matter which held it in solution before.
From this place our author proceeded to the sea-port Basaltic of Trizza, a small place, which with the adjacent country contains only about 300 inhabitants. Off the harbour of this place is a basaltic rock, which seems to be only the remains of a much larger one destroyed by the action of the air. All round are long ranges of basaltes, the species of which are very various.
The rocks of the Cyclops stand round the small harbour of La Trizza; and from this view we perceive a number of rocks of very different heights. All of them appear more or less above water, though some are so low that they cannot be seen without approaching very near; and this circumstance renders the harbour inaccessible to vessels of any considerable burden, at the same time that, by reason of the depth of the sea, it is impossible either to cut or unite them by a mole. The principal of these rocks is the extremity of an island, one half of which is composed of lava placed on a basaltic base; over this is a crust of pozzolana, combined with a kind of white calcareous matter of a pretty hard and compact consistence; and which, by the action of the air, assumes the appearance of knotty porous wood. On this subject our author observes, that "the rock at some former period, had become so hard as to split, and the clefts were then filled up with a very hard matter which was porous on all sides like scoria. That matter afterwards split also; leaving large interstices, which in their turn have been filled up with a kind of compound yellow matter. The island appears to have been formerly inhabited, but is at present destitute both of inhabitants and of culture, only the people of La Trizza feed a few goats upon it."
To the southward of the harbour of La Trizza we observe several fragments of basaltes, both in the form of needles, and in that of prismatic columns of a very regular form, and which may be easily separated from one another. From the position in which these fragments are disposed, it appears that the mass to which they belong must have suffered some very violent shock; otherwise such huge rocks could never have been broken, overturned, and scattered in directions so very different from their original positions. In one of these ruins there are some parts harder than the rest, which withstand the action of the air, while the intervening spaces yield to it, and appear to be thus destroyed. In some others this effect is much more remarkable; because the columns happen to be much farther advanced towards a state of dissolution, the parts of which they consist being already disjointed; and in each of those which project we perceive a fissure: which shows that each of these parts may be divided into two. "They are indeed (says our author) actually divided, and display a convexity issuing from a concavity, like a pile of hats placed one upon another, when they are removed one by one; which is a very curious singularity."
Continuing his journey still southward, our author arrived at the promontory of the Castel d'Aci. This is the most singularly curious of all that are in the neighbourhood of Ætna. The ancient mass of it is in enclosed between two bodies of lava of a more modern origin. These compose the rocks on which Castel d'Aci is situated, and which lie under the soil of the adjacent country. Beyond that city are the immense plains of the lower part of Ætna. These gradually rise till they reach the summit, which is hid among the clouds. The promontory is almost entirely composed of basaltes, the interstices of which are filled up with a yellowish matter, which seems to be a clay nearly of the same nature with that formerly taken notice of in the island of La Trizza. It also covers the mass of basaltes, and has produced both the superior and anterior parts of the promontory. Here our author saw a number of women employed in washing webs of cloth in the sea; and takes notice of the dexterous method they have of lifting it up in folds, and packing it on their heads in bundles, without receiving any assistance. At the foot of this promontory are many curious basaltic rocks.
All along the eastern side of Mount Ætna the soil is broken, but filled with beautiful varieties of basaltes, highly worthy of observation. Indeed, according to our author's opinion, there is no volcano in Europe so rich as Ætna in basaltes, nor where so many curious figures of it are to be seen.
M. Houel having spent some more time in visiting the basaltic columns around the foot of the mountain, set out from Aci to visit the famous chesnut tree for an hundred horses which we have already mentioned. In his way thither he passed through the villages of Fortezza, Mangamo, St. Leonardo, St. Matteo, and La Macchia. The landscapes of each of these places by itself are extremely beautiful; but the country between them is a frightful wild desert, presenting to the eye nothing but extensive plains of black lava, which at a distance have the appearance of vast quantities of pit-coal. The roads became rougher as they advanced; but the adjoining fields assumed a more pleasing aspect. The reason of this is, that the torrents of lava (by which the plains are rendered unfit for vegetation for a great number of years) have rolled rapidly down the more steep sides of the mountain without destroying the fertility of the soil.
Travelling through very difficult roads, and often incommodeed with dangerous precipices, our author at last arrived at the celebrated chesnut tree, which was the chief object of this journey. He observes, that, Great all over this side of the mountain, the chesnut trees thrive very well, and are carefully cultivated by the inhabitants. They are worked into hoops for casks, and a considerable trade is carried on in this article. The Partirele great one which he came to visit, exceeds the size of other trees so much, that it cannot fail to excite the greatest admiration. It has its name from the following circumstance. Jean of Arragon spent some time in Sicily on her way from Spain to Naples. While here, she visited Mount Ætna, attended by her principal nobility; and happening to be overtaken by a storm, they took shelter under this tree, whose branches were sufficiently extensive to cover them all. By others, however, this story is treated as a mere fable.
According to our author's account, this chesnut tree is 160 feet in circumference, which is less than Mr. Brydone's account of it, but quite hollow within: which, however, affects not its verdure; for the chesnut tree, like the willow, depends upon its bark for subsistence, and by age loses its internal part. As the cavity of this enormous mass is very considerable, the people have built a house in it, where they have an oven for drying nuts, almonds, and chesnuts, &c. of which they make conserves. They frequently supply themselves with wood from the tree which encircles their house, so that it seems likely, in a short time, to go to ruin through the thoughtless ingratitude of its inhabitants, to whom it gives protection.
It has been thought that this tree was composed of a number of others grown together; but our author is of a different opinion. For he supposes that the bark and outer part of the wood have been rent asunder, and that by a natural motion the divided parts of the bark seeking to reunite, or rather to shelter themselves from the action of the external air, are bent inwards so as to form circular ares, which may indeed be taken for so many different trees, though they appear properly to belong to the same trunk.
Besides this, there is abundance of other trees in the neighbourhood very remarkable for their size. Our traveller was shown a number of young trees of the same species, all very beautiful and straight, and almost as smooth as polished marble. One of these was 38 feet in circumference, and there was a number of others nearly of the same size. Among these there were seven standing together, which have received the name of the seven brethren. Another is denominated minated the ship, from the general figure of its top, which has some slight resemblance to a ship. Its diameter is 25 feet, so that the circumference cannot be less than 75. In these extensive forests, however, there are chestnut trees of every age and size.
Our author's next visit was paid to a snow grotto, being one of those magazines, where that article, so necessary in the hot climate of Sicily, is preserved for use. In his way thither he visited the forest of pines; which is so much surrounded by rocks and precipices, that it is scarcely accessible; and vast numbers of the trees are dying of old age. Some of the neighbouring peasants, however, now and then attempt to carry them off. Our author saw one of them at this work. It was drawn by oxen, who were yoked to it by a chain connected with the beam by an iron cramp. But the extreme roughness of the road made the tree leap and bound in such a manner, that the poor creatures were every moment in danger of having their legs broken, or being hurled over precipices along with their driver; accidents which happen not unfrequently, and which render this occupation less generally practised than otherwise it would be.
The snow grotto is but lately formed, by the action of the waters under the beds of lava carrying away the stratum of pozzolana below them. It is situated on a mount named Finocchio, which, though of very considerable size, is only a protuberance on the side of Etna. It has been repaired in the inside at the expense of the knights of Malta, who have hired this, as well as several other caverns in the mountain, for the purpose of holding snow, which they have still more occasion for in their island than the inhabitants of Sicily. There are two openings above, at which they throw in the snow; and flights of steps have been cut to these as well as in the internal parts. A considerable extent of ground is levelled and enclosed with high walls above the grotto; so that when the wind, which at this elevation blows with great violence, carries the snow down from the higher parts of the mountain, it is stopped and detained by the walls of this enclosure. It is then thrown into the grotto, where the thickness of the beds of lava which cover it prevents any impression from the summer heat. When the season for exportation comes on, the snow is put into large bags, and pressed into them as close as possible. Thus it is rendered compact and heavy, and likewise runs less risk of being affected by the heat. It is then carried out upon men's shoulders, and conveyed to the shore on mules. Before it is put into the bags, the lumps of snow are carefully wrapped up in leaves, which is another preservative; at the same time that the fresh congelation of the little which melts, unites the masses so together, that our author informs us he has seen pieces of the snow preserved in this manner which looked like the fairest and most transparent crystal.
Our author's next excursion was to Mount Rosso, or the Red Mountain, which is one of the mouths of Etna, and through which it discharges from time to time great quantities of lava, sand, ashes, &c. It is the most celebrated of all the numerous mouths which have opened on the side of the mountain, though it has become so noted only for having poured forth the matter of the great eruption in 1669, and which is the most remarkable of any recorded in history.
"When a new crater (says our author) is formed on Mount Etna, it is always in consequence of some shock that is powerful enough to break the arches of its caverns. Doubtless it is inconceivable that there should be any agent endowed with such force; but when such a fracture is once made, it is necessarily very large, and the surface of the ground above cannot but be broken in several different places at considerable distances from one another. The matter which is discharged always issues from the principal opening and those adjoining to it. None of these mouths, however, continue open, excepting that which is directly in the line in which the matter is discharged; the lava soon choking up those which are in a more oblique direction."
Our author went down one of these openings with torches; but could not reach the bottom, and was obliged to return on account of the extreme cold. The descent was extremely difficult, and became more so in proportion as he advanced. This crater is of an oval form, and the opening through which he descended was in one extremity: but he was tempted to think that the crater which rises above it had been formed of matter discharged by another mouth: or perhaps it might have had a more centrical opening, through which the stones, sand, &c. which form the crater were discharged.
Four of the mouths of this mount appear to be composed of a reddish pozzolana, which has procured it the name of the Red Mountain; but when we ascend the pyramids, or rather funnels which they form, we find them composed of different-coloured layers of sand. Some of these are of a bluish-gray colour, others of a fine yellow, and some of a kind of green formed by a mixture of gray and yellow, while others are of red colour. A great number of small crystals, black schoerls, and granites are found among them, as well as pieces of scoria, which had been discharged by the volcano in the form of a thick and glutinous matter. All these mouths have internally the form of a funnel, and their shape is nearly that of a mutilated cone or round pyramid. This is the natural and unavoidable consequence of the perpendicular fall of the pulverized matter which the volcano discharges from the orifice at the bottom. The sides of the craters are not all of one height; the parts to the east and west being considerably higher than the intermediate summits, because the currents of the ashes passed alternately from east to west, and fell upon these sides in greater quantities than on the others; which circumstance has given to the volcano the appearance of having two summits.
M. Houel, having finished his observations on Monte Convent of Rosso, returned to the convent of Nicolosi, which is now only a house for the entertainment of travellers described. The Benedictines of Catania, to whom it belongs, visit this place only when in an ill state of health, as the purity of the air renders it very salutary to the human constitution. A solitary brother, however, resides here to take care of the house, and to superintend the cultivation of the neighbouring plains. Those fathers once possessed an extensive and very fertile tract of land in this neighbourhood; but the eruptions of Etna have rendered it totally incapable of cultivation. This house stands at a very considerable height, being no less than 2496 feet above the level of the sea. Set- ting out from this place three hours before day, our traveller directed his course towards the Grotto of the Goats. In his way thither, he passed over several plains of lava, some of them ancient and others more modern: but the roads were extremely rough and dangerous; or rather, as our author expresses himself, there was no track or path meriting the name of a road. In two hours they reached the Regione Sylvosa, where an immense forest surrounds the mountain, and which has undoubtedly been planted by the hand of nature: for there the ground is so high, so full of precipices, and so entirely uninhabitable, that no human being could ever think of making plantations on it; nor is it to be supposed that the winds could take up seeds from the plains to sow them on such a lofty situation.
These majestic forests of Ætna afford a singular spectacle, and bear no resemblance to those of other countries. Their verdure is more lively, and the trees of which they consist are of a greater height. These advantages they owe to the soil wherein they grow; for the soil produced by volcanoes is particularly favourable to vegetation, and every species of plants grows here with great luxuriance. In several places, where we can view their interior parts, the most enchanting prospects are displayed. The hawthorn trees are of an immense size. Our author saw several of them of a regular form, and which he was almost tempted to take for large orange trees cut artificially into the figures they represented. The beeches appear like as many ramified pillars, and the tufted branches of the oak like close bushes impenetrable to the rays of the sun. The appearance of the woods in general is exceedingly picturesque, both by reason of the great number and variety of the trees, and the inequality of the ground, which makes them rise like the seats in an amphitheatre, one row above another; disposing them also in groups and glades, so that their appearance changes to the eye at every step; and this variety is augmented by accidental circumstances, as the situation of young trees, among others venerable for their antiquity; the effects of storms, which have often overturned large trees, while stems shooting up from their roots, like the Lernæan hydra, show a number of heads newly sprung to make up that which was cut off.
About three hours after the departure of our travellers from St Nicholas, they reached the Grotto of the Goats. It is formed by a bed of lava, which having flowed over a pile of sand and pozzolana while in a fluid state, settled and cooled in that situation; and the sand or pozzolana being afterwards carried off by the filtration of water through the lava, a void space has been left, which the torrents have gradually enlarged to its present size.
This grotto stands about 5054 feet above the level of the sea, according to the calculations of M. de Saussure. It affords a retreat for those travellers who visit the summit of Ætna, who generally refresh themselves by taking a repast and making a fire at the entry, for which there is plenty of dry wood at hand; while the sand serves for a bed to repose on. Here our author and his company supped, and about midnight set off for the summit. They had the advantage of the moon-light; and our author advises all those who intend to visit the top of Ætna, to take such a time for their journey as may enable them to enjoy this advantage. As they advanced beyond the Grotto of the Goats, the trees became gradually thinner. In a short time they were so thin, that they might readily be counted; and, proceeding still farther, only a very few Ætna were seen scattered here and there, whose beauty and size were diminished seemingly in proportion to their numbers. A few clumps of trees and some tufts of odoriferous herbs were now only to be seen; and in a little time these also became thinner, assuming a withered or stunted appearance. There they are nothing but the languishing remains of an abortive vegetation; and a few paces further even this disappeared, and the eye was presented only with barren sand.
Having now got above the region of the trees, they Snowy entered the third, which our author denominates the region of snow and sterility. The wind became more brisk and keen as they advanced, so that they could scarce keep their hats upon their heads; and our author lost his, though tied on with a handkerchief. Here they were frequently obliged to cross considerable streams of water formed by the melting of the snow. In general the surface was sufficiently hard to bear them; but our author's mule once sunk up to her belly, and was not extricated without great difficulty.
Having at last overcome all difficulties, they arrived at the large plain on the summit of Ætna, and in the summit of which is the crater of the volcano. It is en, of Ætna entirely composed of lava, cinders, ice, and snow; and has been styled, ironically as our author thinks, Monte Frumente. Here the wind continued to blow with Wind excessive violence; and our author informs us, that in order to have any notion of its keenness, we must be accustomed to feel it on some very elevated station, as it is impossible to judge from what we feel at inferior altitudes. They took shelter behind a lump of lava, the only one which appeared in the whole plain, and, which our author says, would seem designed expressly for the shelter of travellers. Here they lay, wrapped up in their cloaks, for an hour: but as soon as it was day, so that they could distinguish the place where the sun was to rise, they got up and advanced towards the ruins of the building known by the name of the Philosopher's Tower. The wind still blew so violently, that after an effort of four minutes they fell down exhausted: but the extreme cold obliging them again to get up, they made a second attempt; and after several intermissions of this kind, at last accomplished their design. They were surprised, however, to find nothing but the corner of a wall not more than two feet high, consisting of two rows of unpolished stones; great part of it having been probably buried by the sand and other matters discharged by the mountain. Here, being sheltered from the wind, and the day advancing, they began to enjoy the glorious prospect which every moment became more extensive. At the rising of the sun, the horizon was serene, without a single cloud.
"The coast of Calabria (says our author) was as yet undistinguishable from the adjoining sea; but in a short time a fiery radiance began to appear from behind the Italian hills, which bounded the eastern part of the prospect. The fleecy clouds, which generally appear early in the morning, were tinged with purple; the atmosphere became strongly illuminated, and, reflecting the rays of the rising sun, appeared filled with a bright effulgence of flame. The immense elevation of the summit of Aetna made it catch the first rays of the sun's light, whose vast splendour, while it dazzled the eyes, diffused a most cherishing and enlivening heat, reviving the spirits, and diffusing a pleasant sensation throughout the soul. But though the heavens were thus enlightened, the sea still retained its dark azure, and the fields and forests did not yet reflect the rays of the sun. The gradual rising of this luminary, however, soon diffused his light over the hills which lie below the peak of Aetna. This last stood like an island in the midst of the ocean, with luminous points every moment multiplying around, and spreading over a wider extent with the greatest rapidity. It was as if the universe had been observed suddenly springing from the night of non-existence. The tall forests, the lofty trees and extensive plains of Aetna, now presented themselves to view. Its base, the vast tracts of level ground which lie adjacent, the cities of Sicily, its parched shores, with the dashing waves and vast expanse of the ocean, gradually presented themselves, while some fleeting vapours, which moved swiftly before the wind, sometimes veiled part of this vast and magnificent prospect." In a short time everything was displayed so distinctly, that they could plainly recognize all those places with which they were before acquainted. On the south were seen the hills of Camerata and Trapani; on the north, the mounts Pelegrino and Thermini, with the celebrated Enna, once crowned with the temples of Ceres and Proserpine. Among these mountains were seen a great many rivers running down, and appearing like as many lines of glittering silver winding through a variety of rich and fertile fields, washing the walls of 28 cities, while their banks were otherwise filled with villages, hamlets, &c. rising among the ruins of the most illustrious republics of antiquity. On the south and north were observed the rivers which bound by their course the vast base of Mount Aetna, and afford a delightful prospect to the eye; while at a much greater distance were seen the islands of Lipari, Alicudi, Felicocide, Parinacia, and Stromboli.
Having enjoyed for some time the beauty of this magnificent prospect, our author set about making a draught of the place from which the view was taken; and at length accomplished it, notwithstanding the great impediments he met with from the wind. Among the objects which he delineated on this occasion, the Philosopher's Tower was one. It seems, he says, not to be very ancient; neither the materials of which it consists, nor the mode of architecture, bearing any resemblance to those of the Greeks and Romans. The surrounding plain seems to consist entirely of a black sand intermixed with pieces of scoria, which have been formerly thrown out by the volcano. Beyond that plain, which rises gently, appears a cone, the summit of which is the volcanic crater. When viewed from the south side, on which they stood, this crater seems to consist of a number of small hills. Into these it was broken by the emission of the boiling torrent in the year 1755. When discharged from the crater, these waters spread towards the right, and at the distance of a mile eastward fell in a cascade from a prodigious height.
The violence of the wind beginning now to abate a little, the travellers set out for the very summit, in order to take a view of the great crater; in which journey (our author says) it would be difficult to make people, who have never engaged in such enterprises, comprehend all the obstacles they had to encounter. This cone (the little mountain mentioned by Sir William Hamilton) is composed of ashes, sand, and pozzolana, thrown up at different times by the volcano. The materials are so loose, that the adventurous traveller sinks about mid-leg at every step, and is in constant terror of being swallowed up. At last, when the summit is reached, the sulphureous exhalations, which are continually emitted from the pores of the mountain, threaten suffocation, and irritate the fauces and lungs in such a manner as to produce a very troublesome and incessant cough. The looseness of the soil, which gives way under the feet, obliges the traveller, every now and then, to throw himself flat on his belly, that so he may be in less danger of sinking. In this posture our author viewed the wide unfathomable gulf in the middle of the crater; but could discover nothing except a cloud of smoke, which issued from a number of small apertures scattered all around, and accompanied with a kind of noise. Another and more dreadful Horrid sound, however, issues from the bowels of the volcano, noises issue and which, according to our author, "strikes the heart from the with terror, so that all the strength of reason is necessary to prevent the observer from flying with precipitation from such a dreadful place." Several travellers who had visited this cone before him, were so terrified by these dreadful sounds, that they fled with the utmost haste till they arrived at the foot of the mountain.
Our author compares these sounds to a discharge of cannon in the wide abyss; the noise of which is re-bellowed throughout all the caverns, and produces a sound perhaps the most alarming that can be imagined; and during the short space in which he listened, several of these discharges were heard to follow one another almost uninterruptedly.
This dreadful noise, our author, with very great probability, supposes to be occasioned by the explosions of the internal fire, or, as he calls it, the focus of the volcano: which, striking against the sides of these immense caverns, the sounds produced are re-echoed through their cavities, and probably multiplied in an extraordinary manner; so that what would be only a slight explosion in the open air, occasions a sound more tremendous than the loudest thunder. To such as are convinced of this, and have sufficient courage to resist the first impressions which these sounds must unavoidably occasion, they will in a short time not only appear exceedingly sublime, but by their variety, even somewhat agreeable. "They enable us (says our author) to form some conception of the space through which they must pass before they reach the ear, and of the vast extent and width of the hollows of the mountain."
Having for some time contemplated this awful spectacle, our author wished to measure the crater by walk-to walking round it, but found this impossible. On the north round the side the surface is hard and smooth, the ashes having been so far dissolved by the moisture deposited by the smoke as to cement into one uniform mass. This is sometimes dissolved even into a fluid state, in such a manner as to run down the sides of the cone; so that, after several attempts, he was at last obliged to abandon his design.
Fig. 2. exhibits a view of the crater of Ætna taken on the brink of the east side. The fore ground (aa) of the figure is one division of the crater. Beyond it are two eminences b and c, higher than that on which some human figures are represented. All the three form a triangle nearly equilateral; but, when viewed from any considerable distance, only two of them can be seen; for which reason the Sicilians have termed the mountain bicorne, or double-horned.
The smoke, as represented in the figure, issues from all quarters, either from chinks or holes scattered over the whole crater. But the situation of the principal mouth is in the midst of the three eminences. Its diameter, when our author visited this mountain, was only about 60 feet, and so filled with smoke, that nothing remarkable could be discovered. From the height d, the rock situated on the left side of the print, and on which the human figures are represented, all the way to the rock e on the right, the distance is no more than 900 feet. Our author observed, that the cone is not exactly in the middle of the plain, but is situated more towards the north than the south. He did not attempt to cross the central valley f, on account of the looseness of the ground, and that there was no object apparently worthy of the risk he must run in so doing. At the nearest view he took, it was only observed that there was snow lying in several parts of it, though the heat which otherwise prevailed seemed to be very intense.
The smoke which issues from the crater of Ætna is generally carried in a direction from south to north; and, as it brings along with it a considerable quantity of water, the latter, condensed by the cold winds, runs down the side of the mountain in plentiful streams, and often leaves pretty permanent marks of its course. In this manner he accounts for the great eruption of water in 1755, which he supposes to have been occasioned only by an unusual quantity of water falling into the burning focus of the mountain, there rarefied into steam, and afterwards condensed by the coldness of the atmosphere.
Like other travellers to Mount Ætna, this gentleman found the wind blowing from the south, and he is of opinion, that a south wind blows here more frequently than any other, as he did not observe any channels cut by the water on any other side than the north. He had several opportunities of making this observation, having frequently visited the top of Ætna, and always paid attention to the crater. The sand on the east and west sides was always loose, while that on the north was compacted into a solid body. The three summits were of a later date than the rest of the crater, having been probably thrown up by some eruption which had burst it asunder. The black spots on the fore ground represent a number of hillocks about the size of mole-hills, from which a sulphureous vapour constantly issues, and by which the adjacent ground is tinged of an ochre colour. This vapour issues from the crevices with a kind of hollow whistling noise; which, with the volcanic thunder, smoke, and noxious smell, render it very disagreeable to stay here even for a few moments.
The smoke is represented in the figure precisely as it appeared on the day that he ascended, which was very warm. But it does not always rise in this manner; for when the cold is very intense, it collects into a body, and thickens around the edge of the crater: on which occasion it is condensed into water, which diffuses itself around the edge of the crater, and mixing with the ashes converts them into a kind of clay. The cold Intense on the top of this mountain is so intense, that travellers very often find their clothes insufficient to protect a south them; and it is remarkable that such intense cold is always produced by a south wind. The day that our author took his draught, the wind blew faintly from the north.
The base of Mount Ætna, according to M. Houel's Account observations, consists of alternate layers of lava and marine substances, which have been deposited successively at the one upon another. These alternate layers extend to an unknown depth. They must needs go as far down as the level of the stratum of lava which was discharged by the volcano at its first origin. The last deposited by the sea is a range of calcareous mountains of a considerable height, and which are placed on a basis of lava. Beneath that layer of lava is another of sea pebbles, which are well known to be rounded by their attrition against one another by the motion of the waves. This layer is of a considerable depth, and lies upon a yellowish rock consisting of a species of indurated sand. The river Simeto flows over this rock, which it has cut away considerably. That part which is at present the bed of the river is much higher than the base of Ætna that is on a level with the sea; and not the least thing occurs to suggest an idea of what has been the primary base of the volcano. The marine substances, already taken notice of, lie nearly in a horizontal direction, more or less so according to the nature of the surface on which they have been deposited.
Ætna abounds very much with springs, fountains, and even rivers of considerable magnitude. Our author has computed, that if all the water flowing down the sides of this mountain were collected, it would fill the channel of a river 36 feet broad and 6 in depth. Many of the springs afford fine salt; some are very pure, and others are impregnated with noxious substances; while others are remarkable for their use in dyeing particular colours.
"It is worthy of notice (says our author), that where streams of water, some of them more copious, others more scanty, are seen to issue at all different degrees of height, from the base to the summit of the mountain, Even in summer, when very little rain falls for three or four months, or when perhaps for that space there is no rain at all, and for three of which, at least, there is not an ounce of snow melted; even then a great number of rivulets continue to flow down the sides of Ætna; and at the same time a number of streams, external and subterraneous, each of them several feet wide, are, according to the accounts of the country people, plentifully supplied with water.
"As the trifling quantity of snow which is melted here even in the midst of summer, and the still smaller quantity deposited by the clouds, would be totally insufficient to supply those streams, and must be all absorbed by the earth for the support of vegetation, those streams must proceed from some other cause, whose effects are more copious and permanent. ÆTNA.
PLATE IV.
Fig. 1.
Fig. 2.
Engr'd by R. Scott
Published by A. Constable & Co Edin. 1820. ment. This cause is the evaporation of those aqueous particles which arise from the constant ebullition at the bottom of the volcanic focus. These issuing out at the great crater, and at innumerable chinks in the sides of the mountain, are soon condensed by the cold of that elevated region of the atmosphere, and, percolating through the earth, give birth to those numerous streams in question.
"A volcano, according to my ideas, cannot subsist without water; nor can water occupy a place in any volcanic focus without being changed into vapour. But before that water can make its appearance, except in the form of smoke, it must have filled the whole volcanic cavern, and must have been forcibly pressed by the action of the fire against its sides: it must next have condensed, and assumed the form of water; in which state it must have penetrated through the inclined layers of sand and pozzolano which intervene betwixt the different strata of lava; for these strata lie one above another, and are full of chinks, in such a manner as to present to the eye an appearance pretty much resembling that of the inside of a tiled roof."
It has been a question, Whether the eruptions of Mount Etna were more frequent in ancient than in modern times? At first it seems impossible to give a precise answer to such a question; but when we consider, that the matter in the volcanic focus was then greater in quantity than at present, in proportion to the space which it occupied; that the cavities were then sooner filled with vapour; and that the centre of the focus was then less remote, we will not hesitate to pronounce, that in earlier times the eruptions were more frequent as well as more copious.
The first symptom of an approaching eruption is an increase of the smoke in fair weather: after some time, a puff of black smoke is frequently seen to shoot up in the midst of the white, to a considerable height. These puffs are attended with considerable explosions: for while Vesuvius was in this state, Sir William Hamilton went up to its top, which was covered with snow: and perceiving a little hillock of sulphur, about six feet high, which had been lately thrown up, and burnt with a blue flame on the top, he was examining this phenomenon, when suddenly a violent report was heard, a column of black smoke shot up with violence, and was followed by a reddish flame. Immediately a shower of stones fell; upon which he thought proper to retire. Phenomena of this kind, in all probability, precede the eruptions of Etna in a much greater degree.—The smoke at length appears wholly black in the day-time, and in the night has the appearance of flame; showers of ashes are sent forth, earthquakes are produced, the mountain discharges volleys of red-hot stones to a great height in the air. The force by which these stones are projected, as well as their magnitude, seems to be in proportion to the bulk of the mountain. Signor Recupero assured Mr Brydone, that he had seen immensely large ones thrown perpendicularly upwards to the height of 7000 feet, as he calculated from the time they took to arrive at the earth after beginning to descend from their greatest elevation. The largest stone, or rather rock, that was ever known to be emitted by Vesuvius, was 12 feet long and 45 in circumference. This was thrown a quarter of a mile; but much larger ones have been thrown out by Mount Etna, almost in the proportion in which the latter exceeds Vesuvius in bulk. Along with these terrible symptoms, the smoke that issues from the crater is sometimes in a highly electrified state. In this case, the small ashes which are continually emitted from the crater, are attracted by the smoke, and rise with it to a great height, forming a vast, black, and to appearance dense, column; from this column continual flashes of forked or zig-zag lightning issue, sometimes attended with thunder, and Thunder sometimes not, but equally powerful with ordinary lightning. This phenomenon was observed by Sir William Hamilton in the smoke of Vesuvius, and has also been taken notice of in that of Etna; and where this electrified smoke hath spread over a tract of land, much mischief hath been done by the lightning proceeding from it.
When these dreadful appearances have continued sometimes four or five months, the lava begins to make its appearance. This is a stream of melted mineral matters, which in Vesuvius commonly boils over the top, but very seldom does so in Etna; owing to the great weight of the lava, which long before it can be raised to the vast height of Mount Etna, bursts out through some weak place in its side. Upon the appearance of the lava, the violent eruptions of the mountain generally, though not always, cease; for if this burning matter gets not sufficient vent, the commotions increase to a prodigious degree.—In the night-time the lava appears like a stream of fire, accompanied with flame; but in the day-time it has no such appearance: its progress is marked by a white smoke, which by the reflection of the red-hot matter in the night assumes the appearance of flame.
We shall close this article with an enumeration of all the different eruptions from Mount Etna which are found upon record.
1. The first mentioned in history, is that of which Diodorus Siculus speaks, but without fixing the period at which it happened. That eruption, says he, obliged the Sicani, who then inhabited Sicily, to forsake their eastern, and retire to the southern part of the island. A long time after that, the Sicilians, a people of Italy, migrated into Sicily, and took up their abode in that part of the island which had been left desert by the Sicani.
2. The second eruption known to have issued from this volcano, is the first of the three mentioned by Thucydides; of none of which he fixes the date, mentioning only in general, that from the arrival of the first Greek colonies that settled in Sicily (which was in the 11th Olympiad, and corresponds to the 734th year before the Christian era, to the 88th Olympiad, or the year 425 before Christ, Etna at three different times discharged torrents of fire. This second eruption happened, according to Eusebius, in the days of Phalaris, in the 56th year before the Christian era. The assertion of Eusebius is confirmed by a letter from that tyrant to the citizens of Catania, and the answer of the Catanians (if, after Bentley's Dissertations against their authenticity, any credit be due to the Epistles of Phalaris). But Diodorus gives both these pieces.
3. The third, which is the second of the three mentioned by Thucydides, happened in the 65th Olym- piad, in the 477th year before the Christian era, when Xantippus was archon at Athens. It was in this same year the Athenians gained their boasted victory over Xerxes's general Mardonius near Plataea. Both the eruption of the volcano and the victory of the Athenians are commemorated in an ancient inscription on a marble table which still remains. An ancient medal exhibits a representation of an astonishing deed to which that eruption gave occasion. Two heroic youths boldly ventured into the midst of the flames to save their parents: their names, which well deserved to be transmitted to future ages, were Amphionmus and Anapius. The citizens of Catania rewarded so noble a deed with a temple and divine honours. Seneca, Silius Italicus, Valerius Maximus, and other ancient authors, mention the heroism of the youths with just applause.
4. The fourth eruption, the third and last of those mentioned by Thucydides, broke out in the 88th Olympiad, in the 425th year before the Christian era. It laid waste the territory of Catania.
5. The fifth is mentioned by Julius Obsequens and Orosius, who date it in the consulship of Sergius Fulvius Flaccus and Quintus Calpurnius Piso, nearly 133 years before the Christian era. It was considerable; but no peculiar facts are related concerning it.
6. In the consulship of Lucius Aemilius Lepidus and Lucius Aurelius Orestes, in the 125th year before the Christian era, Sicily suffered by a violent earthquake. Such a deluge of fire streamed from Ætna as to render the adjoining sea into which it poured absolutely hot. Orosius says, that a prodigious quantity of fishes were destroyed by it. Julius Obsequens relates, that the inhabitants of the isles of Lipari ate such a number of those fishes, as to suffer, in consequence of it, by a dis temper which proved very generally mortal.
7. Four years after the last mentioned, the city of Catania was desolated by another eruption, not less violent. Orosius relates, that the roofs of the houses were broken down by the burning ashes which fell upon them. It was so dreadfully ravaged, that the Romans found it necessary to grant the inhabitants an exemption from all taxes for the space of ten years, to enable them to repair it.
8. A short time before the death of Caesar, in the 43d year before Jesus Christ, there was an eruption from Mount Ætna. Livy mentions it. It was not distinguished by any thing extraordinary. It was afterwards considered as an omen of the death of Caesar.
9. Suetonius, in the life of Caligula, mentions an eruption from Mount Ætna which happened in the 45th year after the Christian era. The emperor fled on the very night on which it happened, from Messina, where he at that time happened to be.
10. Carrera relates, that in the year 253, there was an eruption from Mount Ætna.
11. He speaks of another in the year 420; which is also mentioned by Photius.
12. In the reign of Charlemagne, in the year 812, there was an eruption from Ætna. Geoffroy of Viterbo mentions it in his Chronicle.
13. In the year 1269, on the 4th February, about day-break, there was an earthquake in Sicily, which was felt as far as Reggio, on the opposite side of the strait. Catania was reduced by it to ruins; and in that city more than 15,000 souls perished. The bishop, with 44 monks of the order of St Benedict, were buried under the ruins of the roof of the church of St Agatha. Many castles in the territories of Catania and Syracuse were overturned; new rivers burst forth, and ancient rivers disappeared. The ridge of the mountain was observed to sink in on the side next Taormino. The spring of Arethusa, so famous for the purity and sweetness of its waters, then became muddy and brackish. The fountain of Ajo, which rises from the village of Saraceni, ceased to flow for two hours; at the end of which the water gushed out more copiously than before. Its waters assumed a blood colour, and retained it for about an hour. At Messina, the sea, without any considerable agitation, retired a good way within its ordinary limits; but soon after returning, it rose beyond them, advanced to the walls of the city, and entered the streets through the gates. A number of people who had fled to the shore for safety were swallowed up by the waves. Ludovico Aurelio relates, that the vines, corn, and trees of all sorts, were burnt up, and the fields covered over with such a quantity of stones as rendered them unfit for cultivation.
14. Twelve years after this, in the year 1281, a dreadful eruption issued from Ætna on the east side. Streams of fire ran down the declivity of the mountain, and encircled the church of St Stephen, but without burning it.
Nicholas Speciale, who relates, though he did not see, this event, was witness to another conflagration on Ætna 48 years after this, in the year 1329, on the 23d of June, of which he has given a description.
15. On that day, says he, about the hour of vespers, Ætna was strongly convolused, and uttered dreadful noises; not only the inhabitants of the mountain, but all Sicily, were struck with consternation and alarm. On a sudden, a terrible blaze of fire issued from the southern summit, and spread over the rocks of Mazzara, which are always covered with snow. Together with the fire, there appeared a great deal of smoke. After sunset, the flames and the stones that issued out with them were seen to touch the clouds. The fire making way for itself with the most furious impetuosity, burnt up or reduced to ruins all those structures which the piety of former times had consecrated to the Deity. The earth yawning, swallowed up a great many springs and rivulets. Many of the rocks on the shore of Mascali were shaken and dashed into the sea. A succession of these calamities continued till the 15th of July, when the bowels of Ætna were again heard to rebe low. The conflagration of Mazzara still went on unextinguished. The earth opened near the church of St John, called Il Paparinecca; on the south side fire issued from the gap with great violence: to add to the horrors of the day, the sun was obscured from morning to evening with clouds of smoke and ashes, as entirely as in an eclipse. Nicholas Speciale went towards the new-opened crater, to observe the fire and the burning stones which were issuing from the volcano. The earth rebe lowed and tottered under his feet; and he saw red-hot stones issue four times successively in a very short space from the crater, with a thundering noise, the like of which, he says, he had never before heard. In a few days after this, all the adjacent fields were burnt up by a shower of fire and sulphureous ashes; and both birds and quadrupeds being thus left destitute of food, died in great numbers. A great quantity of fishes likewise died in the rivers and the contiguous parts of the sea. "I cannot think (says he) that either Babylon or Sodom was destroyed with such awful severity."—The north winds, which blew at the time, carried the ashes as far as Malta. Many persons of both sexes died of terror.
16. Scarce had four years elapsed after this terrible event, when Ætna made a new explosion, and discharged volleys of stones, causing the neighbouring fields to tremble. This happened in the year 1333.
17. Forty-eight years after this, on the 25th of August 1381, an eruption from Ætna spread its ravages over the confines of the territory of Catania, and burnt up the olive yards in the neighbourhood of that city.
18. In the year 1444, 63 years after the last eruption, a torrent of lava issued from Ætna and ran towards Catania. The mountain shook; and the shocks were so violent, that several huge masses of rock were broken from its summit, and hurled into the abyss with a tremendous noise.
19. After this Ætna was scarce at rest for 18 months or two years. On Sunday the 25th of September 1446, about an hour after sunset, an eruption issued from the place, called La Pietra di Mazzarra. This eruption was soon over.
20. In the following year, 1447, on the 21st of September, there was another, with a good deal of fire; but this eruption was likewise of short duration.
21. Ætna now ceased to emit fire, and that for a considerable time. The neighbouring inhabitants not only ascended to the summit of the mountain, but even, if we may credit accounts, went down into the fiery gulf, and believed the volcanic matter to be now exhausted: But on the 25th of April 1536, near a century from the slight eruption in 1447, a strong wind arose from the west, and a thick cloud, reddish in the middle, appeared over the summit of the mountain. At the very same instant a large body of fire issued from the abyss, and fell with the noise and rapidity of a torrent along the eastern side of the mountain, breaking down the rocks, and destroying the flocks and every other animal that was exposed to its fury. From the same crater, on the summit of the mountain, there issued at the same time a stream of fire more terrible than the other, and held its course towards the west. It ran over Bronte, Adrana, and Castelli. It consisted entirely of sulphur and bitumen. On the same day the church of St Leon, which stood in a wood, was first demolished by the shocks of the earthquake, and its ruins after that consumed by the fire. Many chasms were opened in the sides of the mountain; and from those issued fire and burning stones, which darted up into the air with a noise like that produced by a smart discharge of artillery. Francis Negro de Piazzza, a celebrated physician, who lived at Lentini, wishing to have a nearer view of the eruptions, and to make some observations which he thought might be of consequence, was carried off and burnt to ashes by a volley of the burning stones. This conflagration of Ætna lasted some weeks.
22. In less than a year, on the 17th of April 1537, the river Simeto swelled so amazingly as to overflow the adjacent plains, and carry off the country people and their cattle and other animals. At the same time, the country around Paterno, the neighbouring castles, and more than 500 houses, were destroyed by the ravages of the river; and most of the wood was torn up by the roots by violent blasts of wind. These ravages of the elements were followed by Ætna, which on the 11th of the following month was rent in several places, disclosing fiery gulfs, and pouring out a deluge of fire in more terrible torrents than those of the preceding year. They directed their course towards the monastery of St Nicholas d'Areana; destroyed the gardens and vineyards; and proceeding onwards towards Nicolosi, burnt Montpellieri and Fallica, and destroyed the vineyards and most of the inhabitants. When the conflagration ceased, the summit of the mountain sunk inward with such a noise, that all the people in the island believed the last day arrived, and prepared for their end by extreme uncation. These dreadful disturbances continued through the whole year, more especially in the months of July and August, during which all Sicily was in mourning. The smoke, the noise, and the shocks of the earthquake, affected the whole island; and if Filotes may be believed, who relates this event, many of the Sicilians were struck deaf by the noise. Many structures were demolished; and among others the castle of Corleone, though more than 25 leagues distant from the volcano.
23. During the succeeding 30 years there was no disturbance of this nature. At the end of that space, Sicily was alarmed by a new eruption from the mountain. Ætna discharged new streams of fire, and covered the adjacent country with volcanic ashes, which entirely ruined the hopes of the husbandman.
24. In the year 1579, Ætna renewed its ravages; but no particular account of the damage which it did upon this occasion has been transmitted to us.
25. Twenty-five years had elapsed, when Ætna, in the month of June 1603, flamed with new fury. Peter Carrera affirms that it continued to emit flames for the space of 33 years, till 1636, without interruption, but not always with the same violence. In 1607, the streams of lava which flowed from it destroyed the woods and vineyards on the west side of the mountain. In 1609, they turned their course towards Aderno, and destroyed a part of the forest del Pino, and a part of the wood called la Sciambrita, with many vineyards in the district Costerna. These torrents of lava continued to flow for three months. In the year 1614, a new effort of the subterraneous fire opened another crater, from which fire was discharged on Randazzo, in the district called il Piro. The fire continued to flame for 10 or 12 years longer.
26. The same Peter Carrera relates, that a dreadful conflagration happened in the year 1664, of which he himself was witness. It happened on the 13th of December, and lasted without interruption, but with different degrees of violence, till the end of May 1678. But in 1669 the inhabitants of Nicolosi were obliged to forsake their houses, which tumbled down soon after they left them. The crater on the summit of Ætna had not at this time a threatening aspect, and every thing there continued quiet till the 25th of March; but on the 8th of that month, an hour before night, the air was observed to become dark over the village la Pedara and all that neighbourhood; and the inhabitants of that country thought that an almost total eclipse was taking place. Soon after sunset, frequent shocks of earthquakes began to be felt; these were at first weak, but continued till day-break to become more and more terrible. Nicolosi was more affected than any other tract of country on that side of Ætna; about noon every house was thrown to the ground; and the inhabitants fled in consternation, invoking the protection of heaven. On the 10th of March a chasm several miles in length, and five or six feet wide, opened in the side of the mountain; from which about two hours before day, there arose a bright light, and a very strong sulphureous exhalation was diffused through the atmosphere.
About 11 in the forenoon of the same day, after dreadful shocks of earthquake, a crater was opened in the hill called des Noisettes, from which there issued huge volumes of smoke, not accompanied with fire, ashes, or stones, but with loud and frequent claps of thunder, displaying all the different phenomena with which thunder is at different times attended. And what was very remarkable, the chasm was formed on the south side, between the top and the bottom of the mountain. On the same day another chasm was formed two miles lower, from which issued a great deal of smoke, accompanied with a dreadful noise and earthquake. Towards the evening of the same day, four other chasms were opened towards the south, in the same direction, accompanied during their formation with the same phenomena, and extending all the way to the hill called la Pusara.
About twelve paces beyond that, another of the same kind was formed. On the succeeding night, a black smoke, involving a quantity of stones, issued from this last chasm; it discharged at the same time flakes of a dark earth-coloured spongy matter, which became hard after they fell. There issued from the same gulf a stream of lava, which held its course into a lake called la Hardia, six miles from Montpellieri, and on its way thither destroyed many dwelling houses and other buildings in the neighbouring villages.
On the next day, March 12th, this stream of fire directed its course towards the tract of country called Malpasso, which is inhabited by 800 people: in the space of 20 hours it was entirely depopulated and laid waste. The lava then took a new direction, in which it destroyed some other villages.
The mount of Montpellieri was next destroyed with all the inhabitants upon it.
On the 23d of the same month, the stream of fire was in some places two miles broad. It now attacked the large village of Mazzalucia; and on the same day a vast gulf was formed, from which were discharged sand or ashes, which produced a hill with two summits, two miles in circumference, and 150 paces high. It was observed to consist of yellow, white, black, gray, red, and green stones.
The new mount of Nicolosi continued to emit ashes for the space of three months; and the quantity discharged was so great as to cover all the adjoining tract of country for the space of 15 miles; some of these ashes were conveyed by the winds as far as Messina and Calabria; and a north wind arising, covered all the southern country about Agosta, Lentini, and even beyond that, in the same manner.
While at that height on Nicolosi so many extraordinary appearances were passing, the highest crater on the summit of Ætna, still preserved its usual tranquillity.
On the 25th of March, about one in the morning, the whole mountain, even to the most elevated peak, was agitated by a most violent earthquake. The highest crater of Ætna, which was one of the loftiest parts of the mountain, then sunk into the volcanic focus; and in the place which it had occupied, there now appeared nothing but a wide gulf more than a mile in extent, from which there issued enormous masses of smoke, ashes, and stones. At that period, according to the historian of this event, the famous block of lava on Mount Frumento was discharged from the volcanic focus.
In a short time after, the torrent of fire, which still continued to flow, directed its course towards Catania with redoubled noise, and accompanied with a much greater quantity of ashes and burning stones than before. For several months many most alarming shocks of earthquakes were felt: and the city was threatened with destruction by the torrent of fire. In vain they attempted to turn or divert its course; the lava rose over the walls, and entered by an angle near the Benedictine convent on the 11th of June following. This awful event is related by Francis Monaco, Charles Mancius, Vincent Auria, and Thomas Thedeschi.
A description of the lava issuing from Mount Ætna in 1669 was sent to the court of England by Lord Winchelsea, who at that time happened to be at Catania in his way home from an embassy at Constantinople. Sir W. Hamilton gives the following extract of it. "When it was night, I went upon two towers in divers places; and I could plainly see, at ten miles distance, as we judged, the fire begin to run from the mountain in a direct line, the flame to ascend as high and as big as one of the greatest steeples in your Majesty's kingdoms, and to throw up great stones into the air; I could discern the river of fire to descend the mountain, of a terrible fiery or red colour, and stones of a paler red to swim thereon, and to be some as big as an ordinary table. We could see this fire to move in several other places, and all the country covered with fire, ascending with great flames in many places, smoking like a violent furnace of iron melted, making a noise with the great pieces that fell, especially those that fell into the sea. A cavalier of Malta, who lives there, and attended me, told me, that the river was as liquid, where it issues out of the mountain, as water, and came out like a torrent with great violence, and is five or six fathom deep, and as broad, and that no stones sink therein."
The account given in the Philosophical Transactions is to the same purpose. We are there told, that the lava is "nothing else than diverse kinds of metals and minerals, rendered liquid by the fierceness of the fire in the bowels of the earth, boiling up and gushing forth forth as the water doth at the head of some great river; and having run in a full body for a stone's cast or more, began to crust or curdle, becoming, when cold, those hard porous stones which the people call sciarri. These, though cold in comparison of what first issues from the mountain, yet retained so much heat as to resemble huge cakes of sea-coal strongly ignited, and came tumbling over one another, bearing down or burning whatever was in their way.—In this manner the lava proceeded slowly on till it came to the sea, when a most extraordinary conflict ensued betwixt the two adverse elements. The noise was vastly more dreadful than the loudest thunder, being heard through the whole country to an immense distance; the water seemed to retire and diminish before the lava, while clouds of vapour darkened the sun. The whole fish on the coast were destroyed, the colour of the sea itself was changed, and the transparency of its waters lost for many months.
While this lava was issuing in such prodigious quantity, the merchants, whose account is recorded in the Philosophical Transactions, attempted to go up to the mouth itself; but durst not come nearer than a furlong, lest they should have been overwhelmed by a vast pillar of ashes, which to their apprehension exceeded twice the bigness of St Paul's steeple in London, and went up into the air to a far greater height; at the mouth itself was a continual noise, like the beating of great waves of the sea against rocks, or like distant thunder, which was sometimes so violent as to be heard 6c, or even 100 miles off; to which distance also part of the ashes was carried. Some time after, having gone up, they found the mouth from whence this terrible deluge issued to be only a hole about 10 feet diameter. This is also confirmed by Mr Brydone; and is probably the same through which Sir William Hamilton descended into the subterranean caverns already mentioned.
27. Some years after this conflagration, a new burning gulf opened in the month of December 1682 on the summit of the mountain, and spread its lava over the hill of Mazzara.
28. On the 24th of May 1686, about ten in the evening, a new eruption burst out from the summit of the mountain on the side contiguous to the hill del Bue. Such a quantity of inflamed matter was thrown out as consumed woods, vineyards, and crops of grain, for four leagues round. It stopped its course in a large valley near the castle of Mascali. Several people from the neighbourhood had ascended a hill between the wood of Catania and the confines of Cirrita, to observe the progress of the lava: but the hill, on a sudden, sunk inwards, and they were buried alive.
29. Aetna was now long quiet; for no less a space of time indeed than one half of the present age. In the year 1755 its eruptions were renewed. It opened near Mount Lepra, and emitted as usual fire and smoke; after which it remained quiet only for eight years.
30. In the year 1763, there was an eruption which continued three months, but with intervals. Aetna was at first heard to rebeIlow. Flames and clouds of smoke were seen to issue out, sometimes silver-coloured, and at other times, when the rays of the sun fell upon them, of a purple radiance: at length they were carried off by the winds, and rained, as they were driven before them, a shower of fire all the way to Catania and beyond it. An eruption soon burst out; the principal torrent divided into two branches, one of which ran towards the east, and fell into a deep and extensive valley.
The flames which issued from this new crater afforded a noble spectacle. A pyramid of fire was seen to rise to a prodigious height in the air, like a beautiful artificial fire-work, with a constant and formidable battery, which shook the earth under those who were spectators of the scene. Torrents of melted matter running down the sides of the mountain, diffused a light bright as day through the darkness of night.
At sunrising the burning lava was observed to have run round some oaks that were still standing unburnt. Their leaves were all withered. Some birds had fallen from their branches, and been burnt to death. Some people cast wood upon the lava, and it was immediately burnt. This lava continued hot, and exhaled smoke for two years. For five years after this, no snow appeared on the summit of Aetna.
31. In the year 1764 a new crater was opened at a great distance from Mount Aetna.
32. In the year 1766 another was opened at the grotto of Paterno: fire, smoke, and an inconsiderable torrent of lava issued out of it.
33. On the 27th of January 1780 a new opening was formed two miles under the last-mentioned crater. On the 28th of February, and the 14th March, the earthquake was renewed on the north side, and accompanied with terrible noises.
Between the 6th of April and the 7th of May the convulsions were again renewed, accompanied with noise as before; a quantity of pumice stones and fine sand was discharged from it.
On the 18th of May the shocks were renewed: on the 23d a new crater was formed on the side of Mount Frumento on the summit of Aetna; and from it a torrent of lava discharged, which spread through the valley of Laudunza. It was 200 paces in breadth. Two other chinks were opened in the mountain near Paterno, and very near one another. The lava issuing from them proceeded, in the space of seven days, six miles; on the 25th it had run nine miles.
A new crater was likewise opened on the 25th; from which a quantity of red-hot stones continued to issue for half an hour, and fell at a very great distance: there proceeded likewise from it a stream of lava; which, in the same space of time, ran over a tract of country two miles in extent.
Several parts of those streams of lava were observed to be cold on the surface, and formed into solid masses, but melted again by a new stream of burning lava, which however did not melt the old lava.
34. The last eruption happened in 1787. From the 1st Account of the 10th of July, there were signs of its approach, the late On the 11th, after a little calm, there was a subterraneous noise, like the sound of a drum in a close place, 1787, and it was followed by a copious burst of black smoke. It was then calm till the 15th, when the same prognostics recurred. On the 17th, the subterraneous noise was heard again: the smoke was more abundant, slight shocks of an earthquake followed, and the lava flowed from behind one of the two little mountains which form AET
Etna, the double head of Etna. On the 18th, while the spectators were in anxious expectation of a more severe eruption, all was quiet, and continued so more than 12 hours: soon after they perceived some new shocks, accompanied with much noise; and the mountain threw out a thick smoke, which, as the wind was westerly, soon darkened the eastern horizon: two hours afterwards a shower of fine black brilliant sand descended: on the east side it was a storm of stones; and, at the foot of the mountain, a deluge of flashes of fire, of scoria and lava.
These appearances continued the whole day; at the setting of the sun the scene changed. A number of conical flames rose from the volcano; one on the north, another on the south, were very conspicuous, and rose and fell alternately. At three in the morning, the mountain appeared cleft, and the summit seemed a burning mass. The cones of light which arose from the crater were of an immense extent, particularly the two just mentioned. The two heads seemed to be cut away: and at their separation was a cone of flame, seemingly composed of many lesser cones. The flame seemed of the height of the mountain placed on the mountain; so that it was probably two miles high, on a base of a mile and a half in diameter. This cone was still covered with a very thick smoke, in which there appeared very brilliant flashes of lightning, a phenomenon which Etna had not before afforded. At times, sounds like those from the explosion of a large cannon were heard seemingly at a less distance than the mountain. From the cone, as from a fountain, a jet of many flaming volcanic matters was thrown, which were carried to the distance of six or seven miles: from the base of the cone a thick smoke arose, which, for a moment obscured some parts of the flame, at the time when the rivers of lava broke out. This beautiful appearance continued three quarters of an hour. It began the next night with more force; but continued only half an hour. In the intervals, however, Etna continued to throw out flames, smoke, ignited stones, and showers of sand. From the 20th to the 22d, the appearances gradually ceased. The stream of lava was carried towards Bronte and the plain of Lago.
After the eruption, the top of the mountain on the western side was found covered with hardened lava, scoria, and stones. The travellers were annoyed by smoke, by showers of sand, mephitic vapours, and excessive heat. They saw that the lava which came from the western point divided into two branches, one of which was directed towards Libeccio; the other, as we have already said, towards the plain of Lago. The lava on the western head of the mountain, had from its various shapes been evidently in a state of fusion; from one of the spiracula, the odour was strongly that of liver of sulphur. The thermometer, in descending, was at 40 degrees of Fahrenheit's scale; while near the lava, in the plain of Lago, it was 140 degrees. The lava extended two miles; its width was from 13 1/2 to 21 feet, and its depth 13 1/2 feet.
These are the most remarkable circumstances we have been able to collect, that might serve to give an adequate idea of this famous mountain. Many things, however, concerning the extent, antiquity, &c., of the lavas, remain to be discussed, as well as the opinions of philosophers concerning the origin of the internal fire which produces so much mischief: but the consideration of these belongs to the general article Volcano, to which the reader is referred.
ETNA salt, Sal Etnæ, a name given by some authors to the sal ammoniae which is found on the surface and sides of the openings of Etna, and other burning mountains, after their eruptions; and sometimes on the surface of the ferruginous matter which they throw out. This salt makes a very various appearance in many cases: it is sometimes found in large and thick cakes; sometimes only in form of a thin powder, scattered over the surface of the earth and stones. Some of this salt is yellow, some white, and some greenish.