Home1823 Edition

FLORENCE

Volume 8 · 1,444 words · 1823 Edition

the capital of the duchy of Tuscany, and one of the finest cities in Italy. It is surrounded on all sides but one with high hills, which rise insensibly, and at last join with the lofty mountains called the Apennines. Towards Pisa, there is a vast plain of 40 miles in length; which is so filled with villages and pleasure houses, that they seem to be a continuation of the suburbs of the city. Independent of the churches and palaces of Florence, most of which are very magnificent, the architecture of the houses in general is in a good taste; and the streets are remarkably clean, and paved with large broad stones chiseled so as to prevent the horses from sliding. The city is divided into two unequal parts by the river Arno, over which there are no less than four bridges in sight of each other. That called the Ponte dell Trinità, which is uncommonly elegant, is built entirely of white marble, and ornamented with four beautiful statues representing the Seasons. The quays, the buildings on each side, and the bridges, render that part of Florence through which the river runs by far the finest. Every corner of this beautiful city is full of wonders in the arts of painting, statuary, and architecture. The streets, squares, and fronts of the palaces, are adorned with a great number of statues; some of them by the best modern masters, Michael Angelo, Bandinelli, Donatello, Giovanni di Bologna, Benvenuto Cellini, and others. Some of the Florentine merchants formerly were men of vast wealth, and lived in a most magnificent manner. One of them, about the middle of the fifteenth century, built that noble fabric, which, from the name of its founder, is still called the Palazzo Pitti. The man was ruined by the prodigious expense of this building, which was immediately purchased by the Medici family, and has continued ever since to be the residence of the sovereigns. The gardens belonging to this palace are on the declivity of an eminence. On the summit there is a kind of fort, called Belvedere. From this, and from some of the higher walks, you have a complete view of the city of Florence, and the beauteous vale of Arno, in the middle of which it stands. This palace has been enlarged since it was purchased from the ruined family of Pitti. The furniture is rich and curious, particularly some tables of Florentine work, which are much admired. The most precious ornaments, however, are the paintings. The walls of what is called the Imperial Chamber, are painted in fresco, by various painters; the subjects are allegorical, and in honour of Lorenzo of Medicis, distinguished Florence, distinguished by the name of the Magnificent. The famous gallery attracts every stranger. One of the most interesting parts of it, in the eyes of many, is the series of Roman emperors, from Julius Caesar to Galienus, with a considerable number of their empresses arranged opposite to them. This series is almost complete; but wherever the bust of an emperor is wanting, the place is filled up by that of some other distinguished Roman. The celebrated Venus of Medici, which has been removed to Paris, is thought to be the standard of taste in female beauty and proportion, and stood formerly in a room called the Tribunali. The inscription on its base mentions its being made by Cleomenes an Athenian, the son of Apollodorus. It is of white marble, and surrounded by other masterpieces of sculpture, some of which are said to be the works of Praxiteles and other Greek masters. In the same room are many valuable curiosities, besides a collection of admirable pictures by the best masters. There are various other rooms, whose contents are indicated by the names they bear; as, the Cabinet of Arts, of Astronomy, of Natural History, of Medals, of Porcelain, of Antiquities; the Saloon of the Hermaphrodite, so called from a statue which divides the admiration of the amateurs with that in the Borghese villa at Rome, though the excellence of the execution is disgraced by the vulgarity of the subject; and the Gallery of Portraits, which contains the portraits of the most eminent painters (all excelled by themselves) who have flourished in Europe during the three last centuries. Our limits will not admit of a detail of the hundredth part of the curiosities and buildings of Florence. We must not, however, omit mentioning the chapel of St Lorenzo, as being perhaps the finest and most expensive habitation that ever was reared for the dead; it is incrusted with precious stones, and adorned by the workmanship of the best modern sculptors. Mr Addison remarked, that this chapel advanced so very slowly, that it is not impossible that the family of Medicis may be extinct before their burial place is finished. This has actually taken place: the Medici family is extinct, and the chapel remains still unfinished.

Florence is a place of some strength, and contains an archbishop's see and an university. The number of inhabitants is calculated at 80,000. They boast of the improvements they have made in the Italian tongue, by means of their Academia della Crusca; and several other academies are now established at Florence. Though the Florentines affect great state, yet their nobility and gentry drive a retail trade in wine, which they sell from their cellar windows, and sometimes they even hang out a broken flask, as a sign where it may be bought. They deal, besides wine and fruits, in gold and silver stuffs. The Jews are not held in that degree of odium, or subjected to the same humiliating distinctions here, as in most other cities of Europe; and it is said that some of the richest merchants are of that religion.

As to the manners and amusements of the inhabitants, Dr Moore informs us, that besides the conversations, which they have here as in other towns of Italy, a number of the nobility meet every day at a house called the Casino. This society is pretty much on the same footing with the clubs in London. The members are elected by ballot. They meet at no particular hour, but go at any time that is convenient. They play at billiards, cards, and other games, or continue conversing the whole evening, as they think proper. They are served with tea, coffee, lemonade, ices, or what other refreshments they choose; and each person pays for what he calls for. There is one material difference between this and the English clubs, that women as well as men are members. The company of both sexes behave with more frankness and familiarity to strangers as well as to each other, than is customary in public assemblies in other parts of Italy. The opera is a place where the people of quality pay and receive visits, and converse as freely as at the Casino above mentioned. This occasions a continual passing and repassing to and from the boxes, except in those where there is a party of cards formed; it is then looked on as a piece of ill manners to disturb the players. From this it may be guessed, that here, as in some other towns in Italy, little attention is paid to the music by the company in the boxes, except at a new opera, or during some favourite air. But the dancers command a general attention: as soon as they begin, conversation ceases; even the card-players lay down their cards, and fix their eyes on the ballette. Yet the excellence of Italian dancing seems to consist in feats of strength, and a kind of jerking agility, more than in graceful movement. There is a continual contest among the performers, who shall spring highest. You see here none of the sprightly alluring gaiety of the French comic dancers, or of the graceful attitudes and smooth flowing motions of the performers in the serious opera at Paris. It is surprising that a people of such taste and sensibility as the Italians, should prefer a parcel of athletic jumpers to elegant dancers. On the evenings on which there is no opera, it is usual for the genteel company to drive to a public walk immediately without the city, where they remain till it begins to grow duskish.

E. Long. 12. 24. N. Lat. 43. 34.

ancient piece of English gold coin. Every pound weight of standard gold was to be coined into 50 Florences, to be current at six shillings each; all which made in tail 15 pounds; or into a proportionate number of half Florences, or quarter pieces, by indenture of the mint: 18 Edw. III.