**Good Hope**, or **Cape of Good Hope**, a promontory of Africa, with a town and a considerable territory, now subject to Britain. It is situated in the country of the Hottentots: for an account of whom, see the article **HOTTENTOTS**.
The Cape of Good Hope has been generally esteemed the most southerly point of Africa, though it is not truly so. In Phillips's Voyage to Botany Bay*, we are told, that the land which projects farthest to the south is a point to the east of it, called by the English Cape Loganlus; a name corrupted from the original Portuguese das Aguilhas which, as well as the French appellation des Aiguelles, is descriptive of its form, and would rightly be translated Needle cape.
On approaching the cape, a very remarkable emi- Good Hope, hence may in clear weather be discovered at a considerable distance; and is called the Table-mountain from its appearance, as it terminates in a flat horizontal surface, from which the face of the rock descends almost perpendicularly. In the mild or summer season, which commences in September, and continues till March, the Table Land or Mountain, is sometimes suddenly capped with a white cloud, by some called the spreading of the Table-cloth. When this cloud seems to roll down the steep face of the mountain, it is a sure indication of an approaching gale of wind from the south-east; which generally blows with great violence, and sometimes continues a day or more, but in common is of short duration. On the first appearance of this cloud, the ships in Table Bay begin to prepare for it, by striking yards and top-masts, and making everything as snug as possible.—A little to the westward of the Table Land, divided by a small valley, stands on the right-hand side of Table Bay a round hill, called the Sugar Loaf; and by many the Lion's Head, as there is a contiguity from it contiguous to the sea, called the Lion's Rump; and when you take a general view of the whole, it very much resembles that animal with his head erect. The Sugar Loaf or Lion's Head, and the Lion's Rump, have each a flag staff on them, by which the approach of ships is made known to the governor, particularizing their number, nation, and the quarter from which they come. To the eastwards, separated by a small chasm from the Table Land, stands Charles's Mount, well known by the appellation of the Devil's Tower, or Devil's Head; and so called from the violent gusts of wind supposed to issue from it when it partakes of the cap that covers the Table Land, though these gusts are nothing more than a degree of force the wind acquires in coming through the chasm. When this phenomenon appears in the morning, which is by no means so frequent as in the evening, the sailors have a saying, as the Devil's Tower is almost contiguous to the Table Land, that the old gentleman is going to breakfast; if in the middle of the day, that he is going to dinner; and if in the evening, that the cloth is spread for supper. Table-mountain rises about 3567 feet above the level of the sea; the Devil's Tower, about 3368; and the Lion's Head, 2764. In the neighbourhood of the latter lies Constantia, a district consisting of two farms, wherein the famous wines of that name are produced.
The above-described high lands form a kind of amphitheatre about the Table-valley, where the Cape-town stands. This is situated at the bottom of the middle height, or Table-mountain; and almost in the centre of the Table Bay, so called from that mountain.—This bay, it is observed in Phillips's Voyage, "cannot properly be called a port, being by no means a station of security; it is exposed to all the violence of the winds which set into it from the sea; and is far from sufficiently secured from those which blow from the land. The gusts which descend from the summit of Table-mountain are sufficient to force ships from their anchors, and even violently to annoy persons on the shore, by destroying any tents or other temporary edifices, which may be erected, and raising clouds of fine dust, which produce very troublesome effects. A gale of this kind, from the south-east, blew for three days successively when Captain Cook lay here in his first voyage; at which time, he informs us, the Good Hope Resolution was the only ship in the harbour that had not dragged her anchor. The storms from the sea are still more formidable; so much so, that ships have frequently been driven by them from their anchorage, and wrecked at the head of the bay. But these accidents happen chiefly in the quadrae monsonum, or winter months, from May 14th to the same day of August; during which time few ships venture to anchor here. Our fleet arriving later, lay perfectly unmolested as long as it was necessary for it to remain in this station.—False Bay, on the south-east side of the Cape, is more secure than Table Bay during the prevalence of the north-west winds, but still less so in strong gales from the south-east. It is, however, less frequented, being 24 miles of very heavy road distant from Cape Town, whence almost all necessaries must be procured. The most sheltered part of False Bay is a recess on the west side, called Simon's Bay."
Mr White, in his Journal of a Voyage to New South Wales, thus describes Cape Town. From the shipping, he observes, "the town appears pleasantly situated, but at the same time small; a deception that arises from its being built in a valley with such stupendous mountains directly behind it. On landing, however, you are surprised, and agreeably disappointed, to find it not only extensive, but well built, and in a good style; the streets spacious, and intersecting each other at right angles with great precision. This exactness in the formation of the streets, when viewed from the Table Land, is observed to be very great. The houses in general are built of stone, cemented together with a glutinous kind of earth which serves as mortar, and afterwards neatly plastered and whitewashed with lime. As to their height they do not in common exceed two stories, on account of the violence of the wind, which at some seasons of the year blows with great strength and fury. For the same reason thatch has been usually preferred to tiles or shingles; but the bad effects that have proceeded from this mode when fires happen, has induced the inhabitants in all their new buildings to give the preference to slates and tiles. The lower parts of the houses, according to the custom of the Dutch nation, are not only uncommonly neat and clean in appearance, but they are really so; and the furniture is rather rich than elegant. But this is by no means the case with the bed-rooms or upper apartments; which are very barely and ill furnished. The streets are rough, uneven, and unpaved. But many of the houses have a space flagged before the door; and others have trees planted before them, which form a pleasant shade, and give an agreeable air to the streets.
The only landing-place is at the east end of the town, where there is a wooden quay running some paces into the sea, with several cranes on it for the convenience of loading and unloading the scows that come alongside. To this place excellent water is conveyed by pipes, which makes the watering of ships both easy and expeditious. Close to the quay, on the left hand, stands the castle and principal fortress; a strong extensive work, having excellent accommodations for the troops, and for many of the civil officers belonging to the company. Within the gates, are the principal stores; which are spacious as well as convenient. This fort covers and defends the east part of the town and harbour..." Good Hope, bour, as Amsterdam fort does the west part. The latter, which has been built since Commodore Johnston's expedition, and whereon both French and Dutch judgment have been united to render it effectual and strong, is admirably planned and calculated to annoy and harass ships coming into the bay. Some smaller detached fortifications extend along the coast, both to the east and west, and make landing, which was not the case before the late war, hazardous and difficult. In a word, Cape Town is at this time fortified with strength, regularity, and judgment. It consists of 1145 houses, inhabited by about 5500 whites and people of colour, and 10,000 blacks.
There are two churches in the town; one large, plain, and unadorned, for the Calvinists, the prevailing sect; and a smaller one for the Lutherans. The hospital, which is large and extensive, is situated at the upper end of the town, close to the company's garden; where the convalescents reap the benefit of a wholesome pure air, perfumed with the exhalations of a great variety of rich fruit trees, aromatic shrubs, and odorous plants and flowers; and likewise have the use of every production of it.
The territory round the Cape is distinguished by three chains of mountains, running parallel to one another and to the coast. The first chain, called Lange Kloof, or Long Pass, runs parallel to the southern coast, at the distance of from 20 to 60 miles, widening towards the west. The second chain, called Zwarte Berg, or Black Mountain, is considerably higher and more rugged than the first, and consists often of double or triple ranges. The belt interposed between the Zwarte Berg and the Lange Kloof is nearly of the same breadth as that between the Lange Kloof and the sea, and is considerably more elevated. Beyond the Zwarte Berg, at an interval of 80 or 100 miles, rises the Nieuweldts Gebirg, the highest chain in southern Africa, and the summits of which are generally covered with snow. Its elevation is supposed to be 10,000 feet. The belt or plain interposed between the last ridges is more elevated than any of the former, so that southern Africa forms as it were a succession of terraces rising above one another. The plain next the sea is covered with a deep and fertile soil, watered by numerous rivulets, well clothed with grass and with a beautiful variety of trees and shrubs. Rains are frequent, and from its proximity to the sea, it enjoys a more mild and equable temperature than the interior and remoter parts of the colony. The second terrace contains a considerable proportion of well watered and fertile lands, but these are mixed with large tracts of the arid desert called Karroo. The third terrace, called the Great Karroo, is composed of a vast plain 300 miles in length, and nearly 100 in breadth, the soil of which is of a hard and impenetrable texture, and destitute almost of any trace of vegetation.
It is obvious, from this outline, that a large portion of the settlement must be devoted to complete and hopeless sterility. The Karroo, of which the greatest part of the second, and the whole of the third and largest belt is composed, is quite unoccupied by man or animal. Only a few shrivelled and parched plants occasionally meet the eye, faintly extending their half withered fibres along the ground. The surface consists of clay, thinly sprinkled over with sand, and is scarcely ever moistened with a shower of rain. The hills, which sometimes break the surface of these plains, are equally destitute of plants as the plain beneath. The upper regions of all the chains of mountains consist of masses of naked sandstone. Mr Barrow, in short, concludes, that seven-tenths of the settlement for a great part of the year, and a large proportion of it at all times, is destitute of the least appearance of verdure. The climate of the Cape is besides subject to various disadvantages. It is deluged with rain during the cold season; while, in the hot months, scarcely a shower falls to refresh the earth. During this season also a dry wind blows, having the pernicious effects of the African sirocco, blasting vegetation, and relaxing the human frame. Tempestuous winds are besides extremely common, and often uproot trees and destroy the crops. There are, however, many spots about the Cape of extreme fertility. But the want of roads, or other means of transporting commodities, renders the good soil often of no value. The Cape town is supplied with grain from places generally at more than one and less than three days' journey distant. Beyond that, ground can only be applied to the purpose of grazing with advantage.
Wine and brandy are the staple produce of the Cape. The Constantia wine, raised only on two farms, is pretty much esteemed; but the mode of management is far too rude and slovenly to produce good wine generally; and notwithstanding the encouragement given to the Cape wines, by diminishing the duties, they are not relished in Britain. Some attempts, it is understood, are now making to improve the process of manufacture. Tobacco, aloes, with almonds, and fruits of almost all kinds, succeed extremely well, but are not much cultivated. Attempts are now making to colonize the country round the Cape with British settlers; time can only show whether it will succeed.
The inhabitants of the Cape, though in their persons large, stout, and athletic, have not all that phlegm about them which is the characteristic of Dutchmen in general. The physical influence of climate may in some degree account for this; for it is well known that in all southern latitudes the temper and disposition of the people are more gay, and that they are more inclined to luxury and amusements of every kind, than the inhabitants of the northern hemisphere. The ladies are lively, good natured, and familiar; and from a peculiar gay turn, they admit of liberties that would be thought reprehensible in England, though perhaps they as seldom overstep the bounds of virtue as the women of other countries.
The heavy draft work about the Cape is mostly performed by oxen; which are here brought to an uncommon degree of usefulness and docility. It is not uncommon to see 14, 16, and sometimes 18, in one of their teams; when the roads are heavy, they sometimes, though rarely, yoke 20; all which the Hottentots, Malays, and Cape slaves, have in the most perfect subjection and obedience. One of these fellows places himself on the fore part of the waggon, or, when loaded, on the top of the load, and with a tremendous long whip, which from its size he is obliged to hold in both his Good Hope, his hands, manages these creatures with inexpressible address. When he finds expedition needful, he can make them keep whatever pace he chooses, either trot or gallop, (a gait performed or kept up with difficulty by European oxen), and that with as much ease as if he was driving horses. They likewise manage horses with the same dexterity; and to see one of them driving three, four, five, and sometimes six pair, in hand, with one of these long whips, would make the most complete master of the whip in England cut a despicable figure.
Carriages are not very numerous at the Cape, as the inhabitants in general travel in covered waggons, which better suit the roughness of the country. The governor and some few of the principal people keep coaches, which are a good deal in the English style, and always drawn by six horses.
Its geographical position on the globe is so commanding a feature, that the mere looking at a map, independent of any other information, must show its value and importance in various respects. Its distance from the coast of Brazil is a month's voyage; from the Dutch colonies of Surinam, Berbice, and Essequibo, it is a voyage of six weeks; it is about equally distant from the Red sea, and two months from Coromandel and Malabar. It is half way between Britain and India, in a temperate climate, and productive of every species of refreshment in great abundance.
Considered in the light of a naval station, the importance of the Cape is equally conspicuous. It may serve as a port for refreshing and refitting the ships of the East India Company; a station for ships of war keeping the entrance into the Indian seas, and affording, by its geographical position, a ready communication with every part of the globe. There is no place, in the homeward bound voyage from India, so proper or convenient for East India ships to assemble at for convoy, as the Cape of Good Hope. Their crews might be refreshed with fruits, vegetables, and fresh provisions, at a very reasonable rate. Salt beef for the remainder of the voyage might there be laid in. An establishment for curing salt provisions, would be an incalculable saving, as well as a singular convenience. The moderate expense at which a fleet could here be maintained, is a circumstance that deserves attention. At the Cape a sailor may be furnished his ration of fresh beef or mutton, biscuit and wine, for one-fourth of what the same ration of salt beef costs the government when sent out from Britain.
If a naval establishment was formed at Saldanha bay, many coasting vessels and fishing ships would be constructed in it, as it abounds with every convenience that could be required for building ships, which would be the means of very much increasing the coasting trade.
It is thought also, that were a depot for the southern whale fishery established at the Cape, it might be attended with beneficial consequences. By promoting navigation, the strength and security of the British empire are also promoted, and its very existence as an independent nation is owing to the superiority of its navy. A nation of fishermen implies a nation of seamen, a race of bold and hardy warriors. The cultivation of the fisheries would afford a never-failing supply of men so instructed, increase our conveniency, and promote our commerce.
The colony of the Cape comprehends at least 120,000 square miles; yet the whole population of whites, blacks, and Hottentots, does not exceed 60,000 souls, or a single individual for every two square miles. The rural occupants may be divided into the wine-growers, the corn-farmers, and the graziers. The first, who reside in the immediate vicinity of the Cape, are the most civilized and comfortably situated of the peasantry. Their property is usually about 120 acres in extent, and held in freehold. The corn-boors or farmers, reside generally at the distance of two or three days journey from the Cape. The agriculture is extremely rude. Their plough, an unwieldy machine, drawn by 14 or 16 oxen, does little more than skim the surface. They use almost no manure, and tread out the corn by the feet of horses. The grazier is the least cultivated, and indeed is half a savage. All these classes employ Hottentots, who are not slaves, strictly speaking, but in a condition nearly as bad.
**Good Manners.** See **MANNERS.**