Home1823 Edition

INVERNESS-SHIRE

Volume 11 · 1,446 words · 1823 Edition

a county of Scotland, bounded on the north by Ross-shire; on the east by the shires of Nairne, Murray, and Aberdeen; on the south, by those of Perth and Argyle; and on the west by the Atlantic ocean. Its extent from north to south is above 50 miles; from east to west about 80.—The northern part of this county is very mountainous and barren. In the district of Glenelg are seen the ruins of several ancient circular buildings, similar to those in the Western Isles, Sutherland, and Ross-shire; concerning the uses of which antiquaries are not agreed. In their outward appearance they are round and tapering like glass-houses. In the heart of the wall, which is perpendicular within, there are horizontal galleries going quite round and connected by stairs. These ascend toward the top, which is open. They are all built of stone, without lime or mortar of any kind. They have no opening outward, except the doors and the top; but there are several in the inside, as windows to the galleries. From Bernera barracks, in this district, proceeds the military road to Inverness.

This county is nearly divided by water, so that by means of the Caledonian canal uniting Loch Ness, Loch Oich, Loch Lochy, and Lochiel or Loch Eil, a communication will be opened between the eastern and western seas. This great undertaking, it is expected, will be completed in 1822. In this tract, Fort George, Fort Augustus, and Fort William, form what is called the Chain of Forts across the island. By means of Fort George on the east, all entrance up the frith towards Inverness is prevented; Fort Augustus curbs the inhabitants midway; and Fort William is a check to any attempts in the west. Detachments are made from all these garrisons to Inverness, Bernera barracks opposite to the isle of Skye, and Castle Duart in the isle of Mull.

The river Ness, upon which the capital of the shire is situated, is the outlet of the great lake called Loch Ness. This beautiful lake is 22 miles in length, and for the most part one in breadth. It is screened on the north-west by the lofty mountains of Urquhart and Meallfourvory, and bordered with coppices of birch and oak. The adjacent hills are adorned with many extensive forests of pine; which afford shelter to the cattle, and are the retreat of stags and deer. There is much cultivation and improvements on the banks of Loch Ness; and the pasture-grounds in the neighbouring valleys are excellent.—From the south, the river Fyers descends towards this lake. Over this river there is built a stupendous bridge, on two opposite rocks; the top of the arch is above 100 feet from the level of the water. A little below the bridge is the celebrated Fall of Fyers, where a great body of water darts through a narrow gap between two rocks, then falls over a vast precipice into the bottom of the chasm, where the foam rises and fills the air like a great cloud of smoke.

Loch Oich is a narrow lake, stretching about four miles from east to west. It is adorned with some small wooded islands, and is surrounded with ancient trees. Near this is the family seat of Glengarry, surrounded by natural woods of full grown fir, which extend nine or ten miles along the banks of the river Gary. The waters of Loch Oich flow through Loch Ness into the Inverness-eastern sea.—Loch Lochy transmits its waters in an opposite direction, this being the highest part of the vast flat tract that here stretches from sea to sea. This extensive lake is above ten miles in length, and from one to two in breadth. From the west, the waters of Loch Arkeek descend into this lake. Out of it runs the river Lochy, which about a mile below its issue from the lake receives the Spean, a considerable river, over which there is a magnificent bridge, built by General Wade, about two miles above the place where it falls into the Lochy. These united streams traversing the plains of Lochaber, after a course of five or six miles, fall into Loch Eil.

A few miles to the south-east of Loch Lochy is Glenroy or King's Vale. The north-east end of this valley opens on Loch Spey. A small river passes along the bottom of the vale, accompanied by a modern road. On the declivity of the mountains, about a mile from the river, on either hand, are seen several parallel roads of great antiquity. On the north-west side, five of these roads run parallel and close by each other. On the opposite side there are three other roads exactly similar. These roads are 30 feet broad, all perfectly horizontal, and extend eight or nine miles in length. Their destination or use has baffled the conjectures of antiquaries.—Not far from Fort Augustus soars the pointed summit of Bennevis, which is esteemed the highest mountain in Britain, rising more than 4300 feet above the level of the sea.—In the districts of Moydart, Arasaick, Morer, and Knoydart, there are numerous bays and creeks, along the coast, many of which might be excellent fishing stations.

The southern part of this county is very mountainous, and is supposed to be the most elevated ground in Scotland. From its numerous lakes many streams descend toward both seas. In the extensive district called Badenoch lies Loch Spey, the source of the great river Spey, which proceeding eastward with an increasing stream, enters the shire of Murray at Rothiemurchus, after having expanded into a fine lake. Not far from this is seen the lofty top of Cairngorm; a mountain celebrated for its beautiful rock-crystals of various tints. These are much esteemed by lapidaries; and some of them, having the lustre of fine gems, bring a very high price. Limestone, iron-ore, and some traces of different minerals, are found in the county; but no mines have yet been worked with much success. Its rivers and lakes afford abundance of salmon and trout. The extensive plains which surround the lakes are in general fertile; and the high grounds feed many sheep and black cattle, the rearing and selling of which form the chief trade of the inhabitants.—By the present spirited exertions of the gentlemen in this populous county, the commerce and the industry of the inhabitants have of late been greatly increased; and to facilitate the communication with other parts, application has been made to parliament for leave to levy a tax on the proprietors of land for improving the roads and erecting bridges in this extensive shire. The commonalty in the high parts of the county and on the western shore speak Gaelic; but the people of fashion in Inverness and its vicinity use the English language, and pronounce it with remarkable propriety. The following is a view of the population of the different parishes in the county at two different periods*.

| Parish | Population in 1755 | Population in 1796-1798 | |-----------------|-------------------|------------------------| | Abernethy | 1670 | 1769 | | Alvie | 1021 | 1011 | | Ardersier | 428 | 1298 | | Boleskine | 1961 | 1741 | | Conveith or Kiltarlity | 1964 | 2495 | | Cromdale | 3063 | 3000 | | Croy | 1901 | 1552 | | Daviot | 2176 | 1697 | | Durris | 1520 | 1365 | | Glenelg | 1816 | 2746 | | Inverness | 9730 | 10,527 | | Kilmainivaig | 2995 | 2400 | | Kilmalie | 3093 | 4031 | | Kilmoreack | 2830 | 2318 | | Kingussie | 1900 | 1983 | | Kirkhill | 1360 | 1570 | | Lagran | 1460 | 1512 | | Moy | 1693 | 1813 | | Petty | 1643 | 1518 | | Urquhart | 1943 | 2355 |

Continental part | 46,167 | 48,701 |

Islands:

| Island | Population in 1755 | Population in 1796-1798 | |-----------------|-------------------|------------------------| | Bracadale | 1907 | 2250 | | Diurinish | 2568 | 3000 | | Kilmuir | 1572 | 2065 | | Portree | 1385 | 1983 | | Sleat | 1250 | 1788 | | Snizort | 1627 | 1808 | | Strath | 743 | 1579 |

Sky

| Island | Population in 1755 | Population in 1796-1798 | |-----------------|-------------------|------------------------| | Barry | 11,252 | 14,470 | | South Uist | 1150 | 1604 | | North Uist | 2209 | 3450 | | Harris | 1909 | 3218 | | Total islands | 18,489 | 25,278 |

Total | 65,656 | 73,979 |

Population in 1811, 78,336

See INVERNESS-SHIRE, SUPPLEMENT.