The great peninsula of India is divided into several extensive kingdoms, which are partitioned into subordinate states of different denominations. Some were powerful sovereignties, enjoying a distinguished rank in the scale of nations, and subsisting during many centuries in splendour, as the empire of the Moguls; while others, as the Mysore, constituting the dominions of Hyder Ali, and his son Tipoo Saib, were of more recent formation, and owed their aggrandizement to the weakness of their neighbours. Bejapour is a large province in that part of India called the Deccan, extending from the 15th to the 19th degree of north latitude, and intersected by the 75th degree of east longitude, passing nearly through its centre. It is calculated to be 350 miles in length, by at least 200 in breadth, and thus is about equivalent to England in size. This province is bounded on the north and east by the provinces of Arungabad and Beeder, on the south by North Canara and the river Toombudra, and on the west by the sea. The western coast, for the space of 200 miles, is denominated Concan, forming a subordinate district, which has been long noted for the piracy of its inhabitants, who find secure retreats in the numerous bays and inlets on the shore, and a ready market for their plunder.

Bejapour is watered by many fine rivers, of which the principal are the Toombudra, Krishna, Beemah, and Gutpurba. The last exhibits a tremendous cataract, perpendicularly precipitated from a rock 174 feet high; where the river, during the rains, is 507 feet wide. A great range of mountains, being the continuation of the western Ghauts, traverses the province 40 or 60 miles from the sea, through which are several passes of long and painful ascent, leading to the more level parts of the country. Their height intercepts the passage of the clouds, and numerous streams pour down from them, which, in the wet season, are swelled into irresistible torrents, spreading over the plains; but where low and smooth, they are crossed by travellers in large round baskets, covered with hides, as a substitute for boats.

The fertility of the soil is various; but except in the rocky and mountainous places it is in general sufficient to afford an ample subsistence to the inhabitants. Nevertheless, they are sometimes visited by famine, resulting as much from the injuries of warfare as the effects of climate. Provisions are both cheap and plentiful. The horses reared on the banks of the river Beemah are highly esteemed, and constitute the best cavalry of the Mahrattas, who are eminently distinguished for that kind of military force.

The population of the province is calculated at 7,000,000; of which, about a twentieth part is supposed to consist of Mahometans; the great body follow the doctrines of Brahma. They affect observance of their religious customs in the utmost purity; they totally abstain from animal food, and some of them even scruple to subsist on roots. But they are said, notwithstanding, to be rather in disrepute among their own tribes in different parts of India. It is undoubted, however, that there are some devotees in the peninsula, who, far from crediting that all things are created for the use of mankind, reject every species of subsistence but milk, that nothing more gross may form in their intestines. Cows, it is well known, are objects of veneration, and in some places, beef is never used except by certain lower tribes of Hindoos; but particular towns have the privilege of killing beef for sale. Religious prejudices are carried to such an extraordinary height in India, that the lowest ranks of those sects which pique themselves on purity, would refuse to eat with sovereigns whom they did not esteem of an origin equally pure. Widows in Bejapour burn themselves with the bodies of their husbands, and a year never elapses without witnessing some of these horrible sacrifices; the offspring of the most barbarous principles of delusion. Bramins are found in this territory weak enough to maintain, that the ground they occupy is so sacred that it will bear only a particular species of shrub, which, in the fervour of their zeal, they have consecrated. It is likely that the Mahometan religion was much more in observance formerly than at the present date, from the number of mosques seen in various stages of decay.

There are many large towns and celebrated cities in this province, which was once a great and independent kingdom. Of these, the principal are Bejapour, Poonah, Satarah, Hubely, Huttany, Punderpoor, Darwar, and Meritch, for the most part populous and wealthy places. Bejapour is a city of such immense extent, that, were we not in possession of recent observations, what has been said regarding it might be supposed altogether fabulous. It is situated on a fine plain, in a fertile country, and now rather resembles the ruins of several separate and detached towns, than the remains of a single city. Its name, in the native language, signifies impregnable; and it may be said to consist of three cities contained within each other. The exterior is encompassed by a wall many miles in circuit, fortified by capacious towers of hewn stone, at intervals of 100 yards, and secured by a ditch and rampart. The interior, or second city, which is the fort, is not less than eight miles in compass; and the third or innermost, contained in it, is the citadel or strong-hold, which is a mile in circumference. But the whole are approaching to a state of decay, although the massy materials of which they are composed will long resist the ravages of time. The natives affirm, that, when the city was in its full splendour, it contained, according to authentic records, 984,456 houses, and 1600 mosques or temples. How far the former number is exaggerated we have no means of determining; the latest visitors are of opinion that the number of mosques and temples may have been as stated. Without supporting the affirmation of the natives, we may observe, that some great cities of the east are, in fact, an assemblage of towns and villages encompassed by a common wall, and even include gardens and cultivated fields. Besides, with regard to Bejapour, we learn, that, in the year 1689, when invested by Aurungzebe at the head of his army, 15,000 cavalry could encamp between the fort and the city wall. A mile and a half distant from this, a town, called Toorvee, has been built from part of the remains of the city, amidst magnificent piles of ruins.

The fort is approached from one side, through a neat small town on the south-west. The ditch, originally a formidable obstacle, is excavated from the rock on which it stands. The curtain or wall is of great height, probably 40 feet, entirely composed of huge stones, strongly cemented together, and frequently ornamented with sculptures of lions and tigers. It is flanked by numerous great towers, built of similar materials, and some with ornaments resembling a cornice at the top. The fort has seven entrances, five of which are in use, and the other two are shut. On the south-west side it is entered by three gates, near to the innermost of which is a tank, or artificial pond, about 300 feet long, by 225 broad, environed by steps descending to the water, and surrounded by an inclosure of fine stone houses, through which it is reached by an arched passage 50 feet wide. Several distinct towns are contained within that part called the fort, with neat bazars or market-places; and there are many splendid edifices, on which all the embellishments of eastern taste and magnificence have been lavished.

Among the first which claims admiration, is a great mosque, commenced by Mahomet Adil Shah, king of Bejapour, who died in the year 1660, and continued by his successors. The main body extends 291 feet by 195, and there is a wing projecting from each end 219 feet long by 45 broad, including together, with the main body, a large reservoir and a fountain. Five lofty arches spread along the whole extent of the eastern front, under the centre of which are a few steps leading up into the building. The interior is richly ornamented with passages from the Koran, with the names of God, Mahomet, or the Caliphs, in relief; the groundwork enamelled, and the letters polished or gilt. In a mausoleum, 153 feet square, the body of the Shah reposes. There are circular buildings on the external angles, which, as well as the wall, rise about 100 feet high. Its grand entrance is very lofty, and highly adorned with sculptured inscriptions, and other ornaments. This sepulchral chamber is surmounted by a great dome, whose internal diameter is 117 feet, a vault under the centre of which contains the royal remains. But the dome is much neglected, and shrubs and weeds find root in it, which must occasion premature decay. The whole is executed in a style of plain and simple grandeur.

Without the fort, in the exterior city, there is a mosque of still larger dimensions, and the mausoleum of Ibrahim, another king of Bejapour, who seems to have completed it about the year 1620. The mosque is 390 feet in length, by 156 in breadth. Fronting it, at the distance of 40 yards, is the mausoleum, 57 feet square, inclosed by two virandas, the inner 13 feet broad and 22 feet high, the outer 20 feet broad by 30 in height, supported by seven arches in each face, which are beautifully ornamented above. The sides of the chamber are sculptured in the most elaborate manner with flowers on a blue ground resembling enamel, and sacred passages, as before, in relief, cut out of a black stone, and polished as highly as a mirror. The doors are studded with gilt knobs, and the doorways are adorned with a variety of ornaments exquisitely executed. Around the southern entrance, there is a mystical tetrastich, signifying that the cost of the edifice was equivalent to L. 700,000, and it is said that 6533 workmen were employed on it 36 years, 11 months, and 11 days. Six graves are enclosed by the sepulchral chamber, which are always covered with a fine white cloth. Above it is a cupola: and the mosque is surmounted by another immense dome, supported on arches. The whole edifice is finished with a profusion of ornaments in the highest style of embellishment. There is also in Bejapour the tomb of Aurungzebe's queen, who was mother of his favourite son, consisting simply of beautiful white marble.

This city, as we have already seen, is equally distinguished by its fortifications. Indeed, everything here appears on a gigantic scale; and among the most remarkable objects, may be enumerated some enormous cannon, said to be twelve in number, deposited in different places. Many more were originally employed in its defence. Three of these are particularly described; the first, contained in a great tower on the south-east side of the fort, is a Malabar gun composed of iron bars hooped together, and hammered smooth; its dimensions are as follows:

<table> <tr> <th>Length,</th> <th>21 Feet</th> <th>5 Inches.</th> </tr> <tr> <td>Diameter at the breech,</td> <td>4</td> <td>5</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Diameter at the muzzle,</td> <td>4</td> <td>3</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Calibre,</td> <td>1</td> <td>9</td> </tr> </table>

The second gun, which is of the same construction, and called in the language of the country the Far-flyer, is contained in a lofty tower near the western side of the fort; its dimensions are,

<table> <tr> <th>Length,</th> <th>30 Feet</th> <th>3½ Inches.</th> </tr> <tr> <td>Circumference at the breech,</td> <td>9</td> <td>2</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Circumference at the muzzle,</td> <td>7</td> <td>7</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Calibre,</td> <td>1</td> <td>1</td> </tr> </table>

But the third is of brass, and fixed on a great iron ring inserted in the ground, and grasping its trunions, in the manner of a swivel. It is contained in a tower still larger than the former, on another side of the fort, and its dimensions are not inferior, though in none of the modern proportions;

<table> <tr> <th>Length,</th> <th>14 Feet</th> <th>1 Inch.</th> </tr> <tr> <td>Diameter at the breech,</td> <td>4</td> <td>10½</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Diameter at the muzzle,</td> <td>4</td> <td>8</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Circumference in the middle,</td> <td>13</td> <td>7</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Calibre,</td> <td>2</td> <td>4</td> </tr> </table>

This enormous gun is called Mookl e Meidan, or the Sovereign of the Plains, and it would carry an iron shot of 2646 lbs. It is beautifully wrought with several ornamental devices, particularly about the muzzle, and its polish is almost equal to that of glass. Several Persian and Arabic inscriptions appear upon it in elegant characters, one of them, according to English travellers, purporting that it was cast by Aurungzebe, the famous Mogul emperor, on his conquest of the city in 1689; but we observe that some eastern historians affirm that he only substituted this inscription on crazing a previous one, and that during the siege of Bejapour, the shot of Mook e Meidan damaged the mosque and mausoleum of Ibrahim Adil Shah. This gun had a companion of equal size, called Kurk e Bedjlee, or Thunder and Lightning, which was carried to Poonah, and is supposed to have been melted down. Probably no European cannon of equal size are known; Mons-Meg, a celebrated gun, now in the Tower of London, whither it was removed from Edinburgh Castle, is only of 20 inches calibre, and tapers downwards.

The inner fort or citadel, though a mile in circuit, is compared to a speck in the space occupied by the outer one. It is a place of great strength, consisting of a curtain, frequent large towers, a ditch, and covert way; the whole composed of massy materials, well constructed. The ditch, which was formerly supplied with water, is in most parts 100 yards wide, but the rubbish now filling it precludes any calculation of its original depth. The citadel itself is gained through several gates; but within it is a heap of ruins; and only one edifice, a beautiful small mosque, is in completerepair. Here were the palaces of the kings; the front of one of which is formed of three arches; that in the middle 87 feet wide. It has been observed, that all the arches in the remains of Bejapour are Gothic, except those in the remains of a fine black stone palace in the citadel, built by Ibrahim Shah, where they are elliptic.

These are only a few of the public edifices contained in this extensive place, situated amidst piles of ruins, which appear at the interval of miles. A minute and accurate traveller has remarked, "that none of the buildings here described, the palaces in the fort excepted, have in them any wood; they are in general constructed of the most massy stone, in so durable a style, that one is almost induced to suppose, that the rudest hand of time, unaided, could scarcely have effected such destruction, nor could it seem that such ponderous gates were reared by the hands of men. The massy materials of some, the minute exquisite workmanship, and still greater durability of others, the ingenuity of the projectors, the skill of the artists, everything, indeed, that adorns the science of architecture are here united in so many instances, that the mind can scarcely realize the grandeur and magnificence of the objects that are in every direction scattered so profusely. On the other hand, such mountains of destruction, noble even in ruins, dictate the idea, that it proceeded, not from the ordinary revolution of time and things, but that they were rent from their foundation by some violent convulsion of nature." Until very lately, the most inaccurate opinions prevailed in Europe regarding the site and extent of Bejapour, which was better known by the name of Visiapour.

Poonah, the capital of the formidable empire of the Mahrattas, also stands in this province; at a place where the rivers Moota and Moola meet, and form a united stream called Moota-moola. Unlike the former, it is an open and defenceless city, occupying a superficial area of about two miles square, and washed on the north by the river Moota; there about 600 feet wide, but shallow in the dry season. A bridge across it was commenced some time ago by the Peshwa, or Mahratta chief; but the decease both of himself and his successor having followed, the undertaking was abandoned as displeasing to the gods. The streets here are named after mythological personages venerated by the Hindus, adding the termination warry to their proper appellation; and the divinities, with their monstrous and grotesque appendages, are sometimes painted on the exterior of the houses. There is an ancient castle in Poonah, surrounded by lofty strong walls, with only one entrance, and protected by four round towers, wherein some members of the Peshwa's family reside; but he occupies another residence, and, not long since, he had directed a palace to be erected by British architects. The population of Poonah is estimated at 100,000 souls. Formerly, the Mahrattas, on invasion of a hostile force, did not consider the preservation of so defenceless a place of importance to their power, and they have themselves destroyed it, retiring to Poorunder, a fortress on a mountain, about 18 miles distant, where the archives are deposited, and where some of the principal officers usually reside. Its prosperity is said to have been retarded by great assemblages of people who convoke for the purpose of celebrating some religious festivals, and marking their retreat, when these are over, by indiscriminate pillage and depredation. Poonah is 98 miles from Bombay.

Punderpour is a flourishing and populous city, 86 Pundermiles south-east of Poonah, situate in a fertile and pleasant country, on the river Beemah, by which it is sometimes inundated. Though not of great extent, it is regularly and well built; the streets are broad, paved, and adorned with many handsome houses, the first storey consisting of stone, and the second of red brick, which has a very agreeable effect. The Peshwa and most of the principal members of the Mahratta government have elegant mansions in Punderpour, whither they retire as a relaxation from the fatigues of business. Besides native products, many articles of European manufacture are to be obtained here, as the merchants have connections with those of Bombay.

Among other towns in the province of Bejapour, Hubely and there are two of considerable size, called Hubely Huttany, and Iluttany. The appearance of the former, which is situate in a district well wooded and watered, and in a high state of cultivation, bespeaks industry and comfort. An extensive inland traffic is carried on by its inhabitants, and a commercial intercourse is conducted with the east, principally through the medium of Goa, whence, in return for sandal-wood and elephants' teeth, they receive raw silk, cotton, and woollen stuffs. The bankers, who are rich and numerous, extend their transactions to Hyderabad, Seringapatam, and Surat; and the markets are so well attended, that the streets are scarcely passable from the crowd. There are two forts here, now very defenceless, from nearly being environed by houses; but the town has frequently been an object of competition between contending powers. Huttany is inclosed by a wall and ditch, and also has a fort, which is incapable of standing a siege. In the year 1679, it was taken from the Mahrattas, and the enemy proposed to sell all the inhabitants for slaves; but this was not carried into execution. It is now large and populous, carrying on a great manufacture of silk and cotton; and an extensive trade in these articles, and also in grain, with the north of India and elsewhere. The natives are celebrated for their courtesy to strangers, whom they apparently are desirous of impressing with a high opinion of their wealth.

There are many strong forts in the province, smaller, and thence more capable of protracted resistance, than those already named. Such is Darwar, or Haserabad, a place of great strength, inclosed by a wall and ditch. In the year 1790, it was besieged by the united forces of the British and Mahrattas, amounting to 40,000 men, and surrendered by capitulation, chiefly from scarcity of provisions. This fort stands in a territory called Darwar, which is particularly subject to whirlwinds, advancing in the figure of an immense column, with irregular motion, great noise, and considerable rapidity. Clouds of dust are carried up by the column, which is 20 or 30 feet in diameter at the base, to a greater height than the eye can reach. Sometimes tents are beat down in its progress; and the only dress of their inmates swept half a mile away, while a close pursuit is necessary to recover it. Satarah, a strong hill fort and tower, stands at the summit of a declivity ascending several miles, distant 16 leagues from Poonah. Its name, according to some, signifies a star, being the form in which it is built; or, according to others, 17 walls, 17 towers, and 17 gates, with which it is said to be provided. It is accessible only by a very narrow path, admitting a single person at a time. In the year 1651, it was taken from the sovereign of Bejapour by the founder of the Mahratta empire; and here the descendant of the captor is still imprisoned. It should be understood that the Peshwa who is invested with the real authority, is only the representative of the head of the Mahrattas, while the sovereign enjoys nothing but nominal power, and is kept in a situation of restraint. But the Peshwa must nevertheless be invested in office by him, and he receives some external demonstrations of authority, though deprived of liberty, and is otherwise slenderly provided for.

Bejapour is therefore a populous and flourishing province, and one which, with its capital, has held a distinguished place in history. Four-fifths of it pertain to the Mahrattas; the remainder to the Nizam. It formerly constituted an independent sovereignty, with the antiquity of which we are not acquainted, farther than that Abou al Muzaffir Eusuff Adil Shah was the founder of the Adil Sha- wee, one of the principal dynasties. The father of this prince, dying in the year 1450, his brother, to obviate all disputes about succession to the kingdom, directed that he should be put to death; but the Sultana his mother, having prevailed on the executioners appointed by this barbarous order to spare her innocent child a single day, studied to devise the means of his preservation. She sent immediately for Khajeh Ummed ud Dien, a merchant accustomed to supply her household, inquiring how many slaves he had for sale; and finding he had five Georgian and two Circassian boys, selected one of the latter who bore the greatest resemblance to her own son. He was strangled, and brought out in a shroud, without any suspicion being excited of the deception. The Sultana then induced the merchant to hasten with the young prince to a secure retreat, out of the Mahometan dominions; and he repaired with his charge to a town in Persia. There the prince attained many accomplishments, and remained until reaching the age of eighteen, when he resolved to revisit Hindostan. He soon obtained an important appointment in one of the courts of that country; and, by a series of good fortune, ascended the throne of Bejapour in the year 1489. His reign was long and prosperous; he patronised learning; encouraged the residence of foreign artists; the kingdom flourished; and his death was deeply regretted as a misfortune by his subjects. The fourth in succession from this prince was Ibrahim Adil Shah, who, attacked by a complication of disorders, put to death the physicians unable to effect his cure; decapitating some, and trampling others under the feet of elephants, which excited such an alarm, that all the survivors fled beyond his boundaries. In the year 1665, the governor of the Deccan was directed to render himself master of Bejapour. The natives were defeated, though they had an army of 80,000 horse, their general was killed, and the survivors pursued within ten miles of the capital. Aurungzebe renewed his invasion in 1668, and besieged the city in person; but the inhabitants defended themselves with great resolution. The country had been laid waste, supplies were intercepted, and so great a body of people confined in a restricted space began to be distressed for provisions. Meantime, the hostile batteries having effected sufficient breaches, preparations were made for an assault; but the inhabitants, apprehensive of the issue, resolved to capitulate, and the king surrendered himself to the Mogul emperor, by whom he was treated honourably; for one of his sisters had been married to a son of Aurungzebe; and his principal officers received marks of distinction. Aurungzebe entered the fort through the breach by which the assault was to have been made, and, repairing to the great mosque, already damaged by his cannon, offered up a thanksgiving for his success. But the internal tranquillity of Bejapour had been previously weakened by the revolt of Sevajee, the founder of the empire of the Mahrattas. They did not view the invasion of the Mogul emperor without jealousy; and, as their own power was constantly augmenting after his decease in 1707, they gradually compelled his successors to withdraw. Descending to a later period, we find that they had been unable to reduce the country to order and quietness; and, after a keen contest between them and the British, which terminated in the year 1804, their whole territory was in a state of anarchy. The authority of the Peshwa was either resisted or denied, and scarcely extend- ed beyond his capital, Poomah. The country was occupied by lawless depredators, and all the subordinate chiefs were rebellious and dissatisfied. It was found expedient for the British government to interpose, and endeavour to restore tranquillity,—a laudable measure, which was in a principal degree effected by the prudence and moderation of Sir Arthur Wellesley, now Duke of Wellington. He preserved many of the chiefs from the vengeance which their leader had resolved to take upon them, and induced them to recognise his authority, in paying the service due. Nevertheless, it is easy to anticipate, that, if their union is preserved, they will steadily resist the approaches of foreign nations towards their territory, and most probably will prove a material obstacle to the further aggrandizement of the British in Hindostan. (s.)