The Encyclopaedia contains some account of the settlement and subsequent improvement of Calcutta; and in the present article, which is compiled from the works of recent writers, we have endeavoured to comprehend whatever is most useful and interesting in the description of this celebrated city.

Calcutta is situated upon the river Hooghly, which forms the western channel of the Ganges, and though not the principal, is the only one of its numerous branches which is navigable for large vessels. The town is 100 miles from the mouth of the river, the navigation of which is difficult and often dangerous, on account of its numerous sand-banks, many of which are continually shifting their situation. Vessels drawing more than seventeen feet water cannot, except at spring-tides, ascend with safety above Diamond Harbour, where the vessels of the East India Company usually load and unload. This is about sixty miles below Calcutta, and passengers are conveyed to the city in smaller vessels or in boats. The country, from the mouth of the Hooghly to Diamond Harbour, is dreary in the extreme; the banks of the river are high, and the adjacent land, on each side, which is perfectly flat, forms a complete wilderness of timber and brushwood, the haunt of tigers, and of other beasts of prey. Advancing up the river, the scene gradually improves; the country becomes more and more cultivated, the shipping and the bustle on the river increase, and the beautiful country-seats on its banks announce the approach to the capital. The city, with its numerous spires and other public edifices, presents, at a distance, a striking appearance, and, on landing, the magnificence of the buildings command the admiration of all strangers. The town and suburbs extend along the left or eastern bank of the river above six miles, but varying much in breadth at different places. In the middle of it, and very near the landing-place, is an immense square, each side of which extends above a quarter of a mile, and the centre is occupied by a large tank or open reservoir of water, for the supply of the town. This square, together with the adjacent buildings and those towards the south, forms, what is properly termed, the town of Calcutta, the residence of the European inhabitants and of the natives of distinction. To the south, along the bank of the river, lies the Black Town, which is occupied entirely by the lower classes of inhabitants, and is rather considered as part of the suburbs; and about a quarter of a mile to the north stand Fort-William, and the barracks, which form, on this side, a great ornament to the city. The intermediate space, which is an extensive open plain, is termed the Esplanade. The citadel of Fort-William, which was begun by Lord Clive in 1757, after the battle of Plassey, is the strongest and most regular fortress in India, but the works are so extensive, that they would require at least 9000 or 10,000 men, with 600 pieces of cannon, to defend them. On the west of the Esplanade stands the government-house, built by the Marquis Wellesley, which is the largest and most splendid building in Calcutta. It is the residence of the Governor-General, where he holds levees, and transacts all the government business; it also contains magnificent apartments for public entertainments. The other principal buildings are a town-house, with public rooms, which, though handsome, are too confined for the climate, and for the number of inhabitants; the hospital and jail, which are situated on the Esplanade; two English churches, the one of which is a plain building, but the other has an elegant appearance; also a Scottish church, which is newly finished; and, besides these, there are various churches belonging to the professors of almost every religion in the world. Portuguese, Greeks, Armenians, Hindoos, and Mahomedans, all enjoy here the most perfect toleration.

The customhouse faces the river, and forms part of the west side of the great square. It is built upon the site of the old fort, which was taken in 1757 by Surajah Dowlah. Near to it is the famous Black Hole, which is now converted into a warehouse; and before the gate stands the monument which has been erected to commemorate the unfortunate persons who perished there. It is surrounded by an iron-railing, but it has been struck with lightning, and has since been allowed to go to decay. In front of the customhouse is the quay, which has been of essential service to the numerous shipping which there load and unload. On the west side of the river, and in a beautiful situation, stands the botanic garden, at a bend to which it gives the name of Garden Reach. It contains a splendid collection of plants from every quarter of the globe, and is laid out with great taste, but more with a view to practical utility than scientific arrangement. Above the garden there is an extensive plantation of teak. Horse-racing having been discouraged by government, the course, which was to the south of the town, is now converted into a ride; but the practice still continues at Barrackpore, sixteen miles up the river, where the fashionable society of Calcutta assemble to partake of the amusement. The south side of the great square is occupied by the writers' buildings, which make but an indifferent appearance. They form the residence of this class of the Company's servants who are newly arrived from Europe, and who are students at the college of Fort-William. The private houses in Calcutta, in the central or genteel part of the town, are built, mostly, after the European fashion, but modified to the nature of the climate, and to the magnificence of eastern manners. In a line with the government-house, is a range of elegant buildings, ornamented with large verandahs, and another, at right angles with it, called Chouringce, formerly occupied by native huts. These houses are built of brick, covered with a species of stucco called Chunam. They are all separated from each other, every one having attached to it a considerable piece of enclosed ground, in the middle of which it is situated. The approach is by a flight of steps, under a large portico. The architecture is Grecian, and the profusion of columns, porticos, and verandahs, gives them more the air of palaces than of private houses. To this part of Calcutta the Black Town forms a striking contrast. It has been already described in the Encyclopaedia, but has been considerably improved by the widening of the streets, the filling up of ponds, and by tiling instead of thatching the houses, by which means the danger from fire has been much diminished.

Though building materials are abundant in the neighbourhood of Calcutta, house-rent is not moderate. This is owing partly to the high interest of money, and partly to the constant repairs which are required, from the casting of the wood in this hot climate, and from the ravages of insects, particularly the white ants. Though the wood-work of a house appear externally quite sound, it often turns out upon examination to be completely excavated or honey-combed by these insects, which assemble in incredible numbers, wherever they can find an entrance.

The houses here, which are known under the name of taverns, are greatly inferior in respectability to those in Europe. They are, with the exception of two or three particular houses, resorted to only by the lowest company, and strangers who are enticed into them are exposed to every species of imposition, and frequently to total ruin. A European, on his first landing, is surrounded by numerous dangers and inconveniencies, which he finds it extremely difficult to escape. These are so well described in the East India Vade-Mecum, by Captain Thomas Williamson, that we shall extract the following passages, for the instruction of such of our countrymen as propose to visit those distant regions.

"The tavern-keeper, under the plausible pretext of aiding towards the completion of the youth's wishes, never fails to inquire whether the gentleman has any friends in town? or even in the country? If affirmatively answered, 'mine host' feels himself tolerably secure of his money: but will probably assert, that the friend in town is out of the way, and will not be back for some days. Should the gentleman be totally destitute of friends, then comes the rich harvest. Imposition following imposition, swell the bill; which, if appearances warrant forbearance, is kept back as long as possible, under the pleasing assurance of perfect confidence: but, in the end, a catalogue of items is produced, which never fails to alarm, if not to ruin, the unsuspecting victim!"

"If, unhappily, the guest should so far lower himself as to associate with the ordinary company of the common drinking-room, he is irretrievably gone. Quarrels, riots, and ineptitude, must follow; in all probability rendering him subject to the notice of the police. Should his face ever be seen at that office, it would be next to impossible that he should be admitted into any respectable circle. What with lodging, dinners, wines, &c. of the worst description, but all rated at the highest prices, he must be a fortunate wight who escapes under a gold mohur (i.e. two guineas) per day: in general, double that sum is charged; so that a person starts at the rate of L. 1000 per annum, at least; while, in all probability, no established, or even apparent, provision exists, whereby he may be maintained."

"To state the evil, without pointing out the remedy, would be next to useless; but, when I suggest the means of avoiding those difficulties, or any portion of them, attendant on arrival in a foreign land, it must be understood, that I consider the stranger to be possessed of pecuniary means: that is, that he can pay his way. Without this, he can do nothing; and must undergo all the afflictions and miseries attendant upon despised poverty, in every part of the globe. It may be proper to point out in this place, that what might here appear to be liberal calculations, would not suit the East; where every article of European manufacture bears so enormous a price, where house-rent is so expensive, and where it is indispensably necessary to retain so many servants. The first thing to be done (setting a letter of recommendation out of the question) should be to report arrival at the Secretary's Office, depositing the certificate of the Court of Directors' licence to proceed to India; without which, the party is considered as an alien, and scarcely considered as entitled to British protection. This does not arise from ill-will on the part of government, or of the inhabitants; but from that strict attention the politics of the country imperiously demand to be paid to the several characters, and descriptions, of persons residing within our territory.

"The above relates equally to all persons in the civil or military branches; the certificate granted at the India House must be produced, in order to identify the party; but if it should have been lost, he himself, together with the commander who received the order for taking him on board, must attend, to make affidavit to that effect, before the appointment can be admitted upon the registers in India.

"Such as appertain to the civil service, being always strongly recommended, and often finding many old acquaintances of their families on the spot, require but little advice; nor does the cadet stand much in need of instruction, as to the manner in which he should provide himself with a home. All he has to do, is to wait upon the town-major, at his office in Fort-William, when he will receive the necessary order for his admission into the Cadet Corps, at Barasat, about sixteen miles from Calcutta.

"He who has not these advantages, must do the best his circumstances may afford; he will find temperance to be not only cheap, but indispensable; for, if he should act so indiscreetly at the outset as to injure his health, a thousand privations, and a certain increase of difficulties, must follow. The first point must necessarily be to get under cover. This will not be found so easy, as those who have never quitted England may suppose. It will be after much research, that a small house will be had, and then only the bare walls; for no such thing is known in India as a furnished house to be let; and lodgings are, if possible, still more out of the question. Fortunately, there are, among the European shopkeepers in Calcutta, some most respectable characters; men distinguished for their urbanity, philanthropy, and generosity. Application should be instantly made to one of these firms, for aid and advice. The case should be candidly stated; and, in order to insure confidence, a deposit of money should be made, either with them, or at one of the banks. The consequences will be, that, in a few hours, some small tenement will be obtained, either on hire, or granted as a temporary accommodation, and the whole of the articles really necessary will be provided, at . Calcutta. some one or other of the auctions which daily take place within the central parts of the town."

Calcutta is the great emporium of the east. By means of the Ganges, and its tributary streams, it has an uninterrupted water communication with the whole of the north of Hindostan, on the one hand, and with the whole of Europe, Africa, America, and great part of Asia, on the other. Thus advantageously situated for commerce, it trades extensively with almost every country in the world, and numbers of vessels of every form and description are constantly arriving or departing from the river, which, in the vicinity of the town, presents the busiest scene imaginable. Numerous dock-yards have also been established, in which are built vessels of great burden and of admirable construction. Piece-goods, shawls, indigo, silk, sugar, opium, and rum, are the staple commodities of export. Treasure is imported from all quarters. From London, the imports consist principally of articles of consumption for the European inhabitants, consisting of porter, ale, confectionaries; and, generally, of all the finer manufactures.

In 1808 a bank was established at Calcutta, under the name of the Calcutta Bank. Its capital amounts to 50 lacks of rupees, of which ten were subscribed by Government, and the remainder by individuals. There are twelve Insurance Companies. Several newspapers are published weekly. The charitable institutions are numerous. Of these the principal are two schools for the education and maintenance of the children of Europeans in the military service of the Company, one for the children of officers, and another for those of privates; a free school at which about 100 children are educated, and a native hospital or infirmary. The Asiatic Society still continues its sittings, and publishes its Transactions, which contain much interesting matter concerning the history, literature, languages, and antiquities of Asia. An Auxiliary Bible Society has also been established at Calcutta.

The Supreme Court consists of a Chief-Justice and two puisne judges, all nominated by the Crown. Its jurisdiction extends to all British subjects in India, and to all civil actions between natives, or between natives and Europeans. Criminal cases are tried in this Court by a jury, consisting exclusively of British subjects; as also all criminal charges against the Company's servants, and all civil actions in which the Company, or any of its servants, are concerned; but it takes no cognizance of the land revenues. The law practitioners attached to this Court are fourteen attorneys, and six barristers.

The College of Fort William, for the education of the junior servants of the East India Company, which promised at one time to be so great an establishment, is now reduced to a few lecture rooms in the Writers' buildings. It was begun in 1804 by the Marquis Wellesley, then Governor-General, and its object was to remedy the evils which had arisen from the ignorance of the Company's servants; to fill, if possible, the important situations of the Empire with men of learning, talents, integrity, and moderate habits; and along with a just administration of government, to spread the influence of literature, science, and the Christian religion, over the eastern world.

The arrangements of the institution seemed well adapted in many respects for this purpose. But the extensive nature of the plan did not meet the views of the Court of Directors, and in June 1802, their instructions were received for its abolition; the period of which, however, the Governor-General delayed for various reasons till December 1803, having, in the meantime, addressed to the Directors a strong defence of the institution. In January 1804, instructions were received to continue it on its original footing. The institution accordingly proceeded with new vigour. All promotion to the service was made through the college, and was regulated entirely by the merit of the students, among whom an unexampled emulation in literary pursuits had arisen. In four years from the time of its establishment, one hundred original volumes in the oriental languages and literature had been published, and the plan of translating and printing the Scriptures in all the languages of the east had made great advances. In 1805, the students of the establishments of Madras and Bombay were separated from those of Calcutta; in consequence of this reduction of the extent of the college, the duties of the Provost and Vice-Provost were united by a minute of the Governor and Council in one person, under the title of Provost; and in January 1807, the offices of Provost and Vice-Provost were abolished; the Professorships were restricted to three,—those of the Hindostance, Bengalee, and Perso-Arabic; the period of attendance was reduced to one year, and all control over the private expenses or conduct of the students was given up. On this reduced and limited footing the establishment still continues.

The population of Calcutta, which is stated by Population, some to amount to 500,000, by others to 700,000, is composed of persons from every quarter of the world. British, and other Europeans, Armenians, Persians, Chinese, Hindus, and Mahomedans, are all seen mixing in the streets of this metropolis. The occupations of these various classes are nearly what might be expected in the luxurious capital of a great Empire, and in so great an emporium of maritime commerce. Public officers, lawyers, physicians, merchants, and their families, make up the bulk of the British inhabitants. The natives and foreigners of respectability are mostly engaged in trade, or living upon their property, and the lower classes are principally composed of retail-dealers, mechanics, and servants.

The British merchants form a most respectable Different class of men, and contribute essentially to the pro- Classes of sperity of the settlement; many of them are pos- Merchants, sessed of large fortunes, and live in a style of suit- able splendour. The Armenians are the most numerous body of foreign merchants in Calcutta. They trade extensively to all parts of India and China, are uncommonly diligent and attentive to business, and are considered to have the most minute intelligence from foreign ports of any other body of merchants. The native bankers, agents, and money-dealers, are numerous. Though formerly timorous, the Hindoo now adventures in almost every species of mercantile speculation; and cloths belonging to the native merchants, to the amount of Calcutta L. 1,000,000 Sterling, are generally lying for sale in the warehouses of Calcutta. The native merchants of an inferior class, engross nearly the whole of the retail trade of Calcutta, under the titles of Banians, Sircars, and Writers; and they are generally described as fond of money to excess, and most unprincipled in all their dealings.

The cold season, which lasts from September to April, is generally allotted to amusement and festivity in Calcutta. It is only during part of this season that it is possible to venture abroad in the heat of the day, which, in the rest of the year, is devoted to repose. The hot season begins in April. Every day the heat increases until the middle of June, when the periodical rains begin, and last till August. The weather then being extremely close, is more oppressive, and more unhealthy than before. The thermometer, throughout the year, generally ranges between 75° and 95°, but frequently rises to 100° and 110°.

The markets at Calcutta are open at day-break, and they afford, at very moderate prices, meat of every kind, and poultry, with various kinds of choice fish, fruits, and vegetables; also game, such as wild ducks, partridges, snipes, &c. with various kinds of ortolans. The wild venison is not nearly so good as that of Britain, but the park or stall-fed is equally good. The hare is very different from that of England, being defective in size, strength, and swiftness.

That sudden rise of the waters, termed the Bore, is quite common on the Hooghly, as well as on the other branches of the Ganges. The general cause of this appearance is sufficiently understood, but it is not easy to explain the details. It is common on several of the rivers in England; it is also known on the waters of the Dordogne and Garonne in France, under the name of Mascaret, and in the Amazons in South America, where it is termed the Prorovoco. It is an immense wave, which, in the Hooghly, heads the spring flood-tide, travelling before it, at the rate of 80 miles an hour; and, what is most singular, not occupying the whole breadth of the stream, but ranging along one of the banks, and crossing over to the opposite shore at every considerable bend of the river. It begins about 40 miles below Calcutta, and is felt, but with continually decreasing effect, nearly as far above it. At Calcutta it ranges on the opposite bank. The swell is prodigious; and, on its approach, all the small craft fly for safety to the middle of the river, where, though the swell is still considerable, they are not exposed to the same imminent danger. At Calcutta it often causes an instantaneous rise of the water of five feet.

See Williamson's East India Vade Mecum, 2 vols. 8vo.1810.—Lord Valentia's Travels, 3 vols.4to.1811.—Mrs Graham's Journal of a Residence in India, 4to. 1812.—Hamilton's East India Gazetteer, 8vo. 1815.—Milburne's Oriental Commerce, 2 vols. 4to. 1813.

(0.)