GOETEMALA, or, as it is sometimes called, GUALTIMALA, is an extensive dominion of Spain, in North America, lying between the Caribbean Sea and the Pacific Ocean, and abounding with rivers, which empty themselves into both seas. It is about 750 miles in length, on the frontier towards the Pacific Ocean; but, on account of the various indentations, the extent of coast it presents to the Caribbean Sea is nearly twice as long. Its breadth varies very considerably, being in some parts not more than seventy miles, and in others exceeding four hundred. Its western boundary is the river Huasaculco, which runs to the Gulf of Mexico; and a line drawn from the source of that river due south to the bay of Tecantepec. These limits divide it from the province of Oaxaca, in Mexico. It is divided, on its eastern frontier, from the provinces of Veraguas and Costa-rica, in the viceroyalty of New Granada, by a line beginning a little to the eastward of Carthago, and terminating at the head of Golfo Dolce, in the Pacific Ocean. As the whole country is an isthmus, its other boundaries are the two seas which have already been stated to wash its shores.

This territory is called a Captain-Generalship, as distinguishing it from a Viceroyalty, which, though it gives to the delegated governor a higher title, confers no greater degree of authority. The Captain-general of Guatemala is commander of the army, the navy, the revenue, and police; and the same system of government prevails as in the other Spanish dominions, as is described under the article GRANADA, NEW. The inhabitants are the same classes as are there noted, with a small variation in their relative numbers. The Indians who live in their own towns are mixed with Europeans, and more numerous than in any other Spanish province; and the number of the mixed races less. There are few negro slaves; nor do the white Creoles bear so large a proportion to the whole number of inhabitants as in the viceroyalty of New Granada. The European settlers, on the other hand, are a more numerous body, in proportion to the whole. The total number of inhabitants which people this extensive country, on a surface of 26,150 square leagues, amounts, according to the most accurate calculation, to about 1,350,000. Thus the human beings do not amount to more than one to each eleven hundred acres of land. In the more populous countries of Europe, such as England, France, and Belgium, the average rate may be estimated at one person to four acres; thus maintaining a density of population, when compared with Guatimala, as 270 to 1. If the whole of Guatemala were as well peopled as England, it would contain more than 36,000,000 of human beings; and, as the nature of its productions is such as to afford a greater portion of food, according to the extent of the land, than any European soil; and farther, as the cultivation of the soil would improve the climate, the population, at some distant period, may very far outnumber the proportion which exists in any part of the ancient world.

Guatemala, like the other possessions of Spain in North America, is forbid, by the scarcity of harbours, and the impediments at the mouths of its various broad and deep navigable rivers, from becoming a country of extensive commerce. It does not possess, either in the Caribbean Sea or in the Pacific Ocean, a port capable of receiving a large ship; and hence there is no other than a coasting trade, by which some of its surplus produce is disposed of to the neighbouring colonies. This circumstance has been a check to cultivation, and prevented that increase of wealth which other provinces have experienced. The face of the country, generally speaking, is covered with mountains; none of which, however, are so high as to enter the regions of perpetual frost

* For a more detailed account of these two insurrections, the reader may consult Eton's Survey, and the Annual Register for 1770. and snow. We are very imperfectly acquainted both with their directions and elevations. A chain of mountains runs through the provinces of Veragua and Nicaragua; but, whether they are disjointed and broken, as the course of the rivers would indicate, or form a continuous cordillera, has not yet been accurately investigated. The valleys between them enjoy a rich soil, and produce, with little effort, all the tropical fruits in full perfection. The sides of the mountains yield excellent wheat, barley, and the other grains of Europe, whilst vast plains are covered with cattle, in almost a state of nature. The principal food of the inhabitants, however, is maize; and as it is of all crops the most fluctuating in its produce, sometimes a considerable surplus is afforded; and, at other seasons, scarcity, and even famine, are felt.

Guatemala is more visited by earthquakes, and abounds more in volcanos, than any other portion of the American continent. The volcanos are, in general, in a state of eruption; but, when the eruptions are suspended in any of them, the inhabitants consider it an indication of earthquakes, and usually find themselves soon afflicted by those visitations.

The climate, on the eastern side of Guatemala, is generally unhealthy; the inhabitants are much afflicted with intermittent and bilious fevers, and very much subject to fluxes; but, on the coast of the South Sea, the climate is more salubrious; as, indeed, is throughout the whole extent of America. On the coasts of Guatemala, in the Pacific Ocean, they are subject to continual storms of wind, accompanied with deluges of rain, in the months of August, September, and October; and, in January and February, they are visited by most tremendous hurricanes from the north-east, and from the east-north-east. The humidity of the atmosphere, during the first of these periods, is not considered injurious to health; but that, and the tempests in the latter period, alike render the coasts inaccessible, or at least highly perilous, to all shipping.

Costa-rica, the southernmost province of Guatemala, adjoins the province of Veragua, in the vice-royalty of New Granada; it is about 150 miles in length, and in breadth about 140 miles. It derived its name from the rich mines which the first discoverers imagined to exist in it, but their expectations have not been realized. Some gold is found, but only by washing the sands in the mountain torrents. A very rich silver mine, called Tisingal, is worked, though, from the scarcity of labourers, the want of capital felt by the adventurers, and the inhospitable country in which it is situated, its product is but small. It is, however, reported to be equal in richness of ore, and in extent of veins, to the celebrated mine of Potosi in Peru, but the sanguine reports of the proprietors have been insufficient to draw to it the requisite capital and labour.

The whole province is mountainous, and covered in most parts with thick forests, and its agriculture is very inconsiderable. The far greater portion of the inhabitants are the Indian tribes, who, though subject to Spain, and reduced under her religion, live in their own towns under the government of the native chiefs, who account to the Alcaldi, appointed by the Captain-General, for the tribute exacted from them, and for their obedience to the laws.

Cartago, the capital of the province, is called a city, but though the residence of the governor, and a bishop's see, it does not now contain, from having much declined of late, more than two thousand souls. It is distant from the Caribbean Sea, and from the port of the same name, about thirty miles. A very inconsiderable trade is carried on by small craft with Chagre and Portobello; its exports consist partly of dried meat and hides, and some honey and bees'-wax, the latter of which are produced in large quantities. Nicoya, the only other town, is near the Pacific Ocean in a bay of that name. It is more populous and more healthy than Cartago, and carries on a coasting trade with Panama, to which place it sends wheat, maize, salt, honey, wax, and some cocoa, and receives in return the few productions of Europe which it demands.

Nicaragua, the next province to Costa-rica, is extended along the Pacific Ocean, approaching only to the Caribbean Sea, or a small part of its eastern extremity. The most remarkable feature of this province is the beautiful lake, which occupies a large portion of its western side. The lake of Nicaragua is about two hundred miles in length, and one hundred and sixty in breadth at the middle, which is the widest part. The depth of water is generally about forty fathoms. It is interspersed with some beautiful islands, and its navigation affords great facilities to the communication between different parts of the province. This lake is worthy of notice, as being, perhaps, the easiest way by which a communication could be opened between the Gulf of Mexico and the Pacific Ocean; a communication by which the intercourse and commerce of Europe with the western side of America, and with Asia, would be greatly facilitated. This project has often been contemplated, but, probably for political reasons, has not been put in execution, by Spain, the only power that could effect it. By the river St Juan, which runs into the Caribbean Sea, vessels drawing eight or nine feet water frequently pass from the lake of Nicaragua to Chagre, to Portobello, and to Port Omoa. It is indeed only during the rainy season that vessels of such a draft can pass, but it is at all times navigable by canoes and large boats. Towards the latter part of the American war, General Dalling, then Governor of Jamaica, equipped an expedition for the purpose of taking possession of the entrance to this lake. Two men, afterwards distinguished, though in very different ways, were employed in it. Nelson, the great commander, then a lieutenant, was with the naval part, and Colonel Despard, afterwards executed for a silly but treasonable plot, conducted the land forces. They had considerable aid from some of the Musquito Indians, who, as soon as they had entered the river St Juan, assisted in tracking the boats in which the troops and stores were embarked. Having ascended about seventy miles, the expedition was interrupted by the fort of St Bartholomew, which, however, after some opposition, was taken. As they proceeded, the rain being incessant, the men became sickly, and a flux destroyed several. The great number of Indians that accompanied the expedition, though useful as guides and as towers, were found an incumbrance when provisions began to grow scarce. The inhabitants removed whatever aliment they could; and the want of food, and the increase of sickness, at length compelled the adventurers to return to their ships, which they effected, though not without the loss of nearly half their men. The result of this expedition, however disastrous, has proved the possibility of ascending to this great lake. Some obstacles to complete navigation exist, which might be easily removed. The lake is navigable for vessels of the largest size to its western shore, where it is separated from the Pacific Ocean by an isthmus not more than fourteen or fifteen miles across. The nature of this isthmus is not very accurately ascertained; but some travellers have asserted that it is nearly level in many parts, and that channels in which streams already run, demonstrate the practicability of cutting a canal, which would accomplish this great object. It is clear, from the current of the river St Juan, that the lake of Nicaragua is higher than the Caribbean Sea. Whether the level of the Caribbean Sea is higher than the Pacific, is a problem yet unsolved; but be that as it may, there can scarcely be a doubt that if a channel was once opened, the impetus with which the trade winds drive the water towards the Gulf of Mexico, would increase any opening that was once made, and in a short period give sufficient passage to a vast body of water. On the eastern side of the isthmus the tide does not rise more than twelve or fourteen inches, whilst on the western shore it rises from fourteen to sixteen feet.

The climate of this province is generally healthy, the soil is fruitful, and the aspect of the country so pleasing, that the first discoverers denominated it "El paraíso de Mahomo," or Mahomet's paradise. The air is perfumed with odoriferous plants, there is a constant verdure, from the moisture of the climate, and the greatest profusion of beautiful flowers.

Its vegetable productions are hemp, flax, cotton, sugar, with dyeing and medicinal woods and gums. Its mines produce some silver, but the working of them is not very extensive. A small quantity of gold is found by washing in the rivers; but the mineral productions are of trifling importance. The inhabitants increase rapidly, and have some few manufactures; the most celebrated goldsmiths and jewelers of America are said to reside here.

The city of Leon, containing a population of about 6000 souls, is the capital of the province. It is on the side of a fresh water lake of its own name, to the north-west of the lake of Nicaragua. It is the see of a bishop, and has some handsome churches and convents. It is not a place of much commerce, being removed from the sea. The nearest port is Realejo, on the Pacific Ocean, from whence its exports for Panama are shipped. The river Realejo is capable of containing large fleets, but, having a bar, it is difficult of entrance, even for the small vessels that carry on the trade of the western sides of America. Pitch, tar, and cordage, are sent from it to Panama, and sometimes even to Guayaquil.

Granada, sometimes called Nicaragua, is the town of next importance. It is at the south-east extremity of the lake, and depends principally for its prosperity on the intercourse it maintains by the lake with the other parts of the province. The nopal plants in the vicinity of this city furnish some cochineal, but it is inferior to that produced in the province of Oaxaca in Mexico. The only other town of note is St Juan, at the mouth of the river of that name, which runs from the lake to the eastern sea. It is a small place, mostly inhabited by Indians, and very unhealthy.

The province of Honduras, to the northward and westward of Nicaragua, is 390 miles in length, and 150 in its greatest breadth. On its eastern and northern side it is bounded by the Caribbean Sea, to which it presents a front of low and marshy land, intersected with innumerable streams, which communicate a humidity to the atmosphere highly prejudicial to human life.

Though the coast is generally unhealthy, and the soil, though luxuriant, scarcely cultivated, yet, in the interior of the province, where the land gradually rises to hills, and thence to mountains, the agriculture is considerable and the soil highly fertile. On some of the more elevated spots wheat and other European grains are raised. Maize is most abundant, yielding three harvests in the year, and vines are cultivated, which produce fruit twice in the year. Black cattle and sheep are abundant. Honey and bees-wax are furnished in considerable quantities. The most abundant produce, however, is that of mahogany, logwood, and other dyeing drugs, and these, indeed, compose almost the whole of its exportable commodities. Mines, both of gold and of silver, exist in this province, but they are worked to a very inconsiderable extent. The number of inhabitants is by no means proportioned to the extent of the province. Many of the Indian tribes which compose its population are not only independent but even hostile to the Spaniards, and are maintained in that hostility by their intercourse with the English settlers, who occupy a small part of the province. The principal town on the Spanish part is Comayaguas, or, as it is sometimes called, Valladolid. It is the seat of the governor and the see of a bishop, and, though situated on a river which runs to the Bay of Honduras, enjoys but little commerce. It inhabitants are not more than 3500, and mostly Indians. Truxillo is a town in a bay of the same name, and of considerable importance. Its commerce has increased during the wars of Europe, from the intercourse between the United States of America, and the whole captain-generalship of Guatemala, having been carried on here. Its situation was favourable for contraband trade, the wants of the interior were increased by the long duration of the war, some understanding probably existed between the governor, the officers of revenue, and the Northern Americans, and hence this city has been increased and enriched considerably.

St Francisco de Omoa is a town, with a well fortified castle, on the sea coast near Truxillo. It has been considered the key of Honduras. The silver from the mines used to be deposited here to be transported to Europe, and it was the principal dépôt for the quicksilver which was required for producing the silver. The legal trade from Guatemala centered here, but, during the war, the contraband transac- tions at Truxillo very far exceeded the lawful commerce, and whilst one place has been increasing the other has diminished. Ómoa, too, has been considered less a place of safety than it was formerly held to be. When the war broke out between Spain and England in 1779, a small expedition of two frigates sailed from Jamaica to attack it; and, by a coup de main, took possession of the fort, with all the treasure it contained, amounting, in bars of silver, in dollars, and in quicksilver, to more than a million of piastres.

Gracias A Dios, another town in the Bay of Honduras, has some commerce, chiefly the export of mahogany and logwood, but the recent wars have injured its trade very materially, and it has gradually gone to decay.

The British settlement within this province deserves to be noticed, and may be properly introduced here. It is on the river Belize, which runs a considerable distance through the country, and is navigated by boats more than 200 miles from its mouth. The town contains not more than 1200 inhabitants. It has always a small garrison of regular troops to defend the entrance of the river.

The English have always claimed a right to the whole of what is called the Muskito shore, and have, at various times, held and relinquished different settlements on its borders; but, of late, their possessions have been confined almost exclusively to the river Belize. The entrance to this river is peculiarly dangerous, from being surrounded with shoals and quicksands, and from the coast being very frequently enveloped in fogs. The ships that carry on the trade are the worst description of vessels that sail from Great Britain, and the loss by shipwreck greater than in any other department of her commerce. The most valuable production of the British settlement, and that which is the principal inducement to maintain it, is mahogany, which grows here to a large size. The felling of these trees is performed by negro slaves, who, in gangs, with a leader called the Finder, penetrate into the thickest of the woods, ascend the lofty trees, and spy out the mahogany. These trees are much dispersed, but are known at a distance by the excessive deep green of their leaves. The tree is generally cut at about ten feet from the ground; the trunks are the most valuable part from their size adapting them to tables, and larger articles of furniture; but the wood in the branches is more richly veined, and more beautiful. The far greater part of the expense of obtaining mahogany is in the labour of conveying the wood from the place of its growth to the river side; after it is once there, the cost of conveying it to the ships, though sometimes at 200 miles distance, is but small. Logwood is another production of this settlement. This tree grows very rapidly, so as to be in a state fit for the purposes of the dyer at the end of five years. The trees are usually, on the spot of their growth, cut into logs about three feet long; and in that state conveyed to Europe, and used for dyeing the most beautiful purple and black colours. Another branch of industry of some importance is the turtle fishery, which is carried on to a considerable extent by the British settlers on this coast. Many of the green turtle taken here are sent to Jamaica, and many furnish banquets for the richer inhabitants of our capital, and our larger sea-port towns. The hawksbill turtles are likewise taken here; the flesh is sometimes eaten by the black colonists; but the principal value is derived from the shell, well known by the common name of tortoise-shell, the export of which is considerable. The attention of the settlers is too much engrossed by their peculiar pursuits, to devote much application to agriculture; but the soil is excessively fertile, and, with little labour, produces all the tropical fruits and vegetables in abundance, especially plantains, bananas, and maize.

We have before mentioned the Musquito Indians. Though usually denominated by that appellation, they are not indigenous, and therefore not entitled to the name of Indians. They are evidently of African origin, as their woolly heads and thick lips demonstrate. The traditionary history of these tribes is, that, in a ship from Africa, the male and female slaves rose on the mariners, and murdered them all; that, not understanding the art of navigation, they were driven by the trade-winds to leeward of all the islands, and at length landed on this coast, where they increased and peopled the country. It is not clearly ascertained at what time this event occurred; but for one hundred and ten years the British have had connections with them, and they have obtained a kind of superiority, which, however, principally consists in the nominal command being conferred on one of their chiefs, by a commission from the Governor of Jamaica. The Spaniards, in their vicinity, when they approached, wished to subject them to their regulations, the resistance to which produced cruel wars, far from being yet terminated. These Musquitos took refuge in the mountains, till they had opportunities of intercourse with the British, from whom they obtained fire-arms. They were then, with the help of these allies, sufficiently powerful to resist the Spaniards, and to keep open the intercourse by several of the rivers. They were more numerous seventy years ago than they are at present. About that period, the small-pox was introduced, which made a sad havoc; and the indulgence in rum has had a similar effect. They are, however, now scattered on the whole coast; and though they have mingled with some of the aboriginal tribes, from which they have derived the name Zambos, yet the mark of their African origin is visible among all of them. The principal stations of these tribes are in the vicinity of Cape Gracias A Dios, where they are said to be capable of mustering fifteen hundred warriors. Attempts have been made by their means to carry on a contraband trade in European goods, with the more populous parts of Guatemala; but it has been found easier to effect the same object by bribing the Spanish governors and officers of revenue, than to trust to the sobriety and honesty of these uncivilized tribes.

Vera-Paz, the next province to Honduras, includes the Gulf Amatique, and the Gulf or Bay of Dolce, within its limits. These inlets are capable of receiving large vessels, and might be made useful channels of commercial intercourse with the South Sea; but it is less known to us than any other part Guatemala. of Guatemala. Vera-Paz is about 120 miles in length, and 70 in breadth. It is very thinly peopled, and very slightly cultivated. The climate is unhealthy, and it rains nine months in the year, so that the lower lands are almost perpetually inundated. Its capital is the town of Coban, or, as it is sometimes called, Vera-Paz. It is built on the banks of a river of the same name, which runs into the sea by the Gulf of Amatique. What little commerce originates in this province is conducted by the gulls to the neighbouring port of Truxillo, and from thence to their respective destinations. Its exports are merely a few dyeing woods, some honey and wax, and a little cocoa.

Chiapa. Chiapa, the next province to Vera-Paz, is wholly inland, as the province of Vera-Cruz, in the vice-royalty of Mexico, is interposed between it and the Caribbean Sea to the north, whilst the province of Guatemala Proper separates it from the Pacific Ocean. It is 250 miles in length from east to west; in its broadest part it is 300 miles, and in its narrowest part 90 miles. The productions of this province are very valuable, consisting of all kinds of wood, cedar, cypress, oak, and walnut, for building houses and ships, as well as logwood and other dyes. It produces abundance of corn, maize, cotton, cocoa, and sugar; and the inferior cochineal, the Grana silvestris, is plentiful. The breed of its horses is highly valued, and the richer inhabitants of the city of Mexico are generally supplied from this district. There are neither mines of gold or silver in the province; and the inhabitants, wanting the seductive pursuit of those attractive metals, have generally directed their attention to the more beneficial labours of agriculture. Although the province of Chiapa does not touch the sea coast, it has an advantage more than equivalent in the great river Tobasco, or Grijalva, which almost encircles it, and affords an excellent outlet for its surplus productions. It also enjoys the navigation of the great river Sumasinta on its eastern frontier, which, after a long course, empties itself into the Gulf of Terminos, between Campeche and Vera-Cruz.

There are two cities in this province, Chiapa de los Indios, and Chiapa de los Espaniolas. The latter, sometimes called Chiapa Real, is the seat of the government, of the courts of justice, and of the bishop of the province. The cathedral is a magnificent building, and there are several rich monasteries. The city was anciently incorporated, and its municipal Cabildo enjoys extensive privileges and considerable wealth. It is not a place of extensive trade, and the inhabitants are more distinguished by their pride and their titles than by their wealth or their knowledge. The other city is about forty miles distant, and much more populous and flourishing. As its name Chiapa de los Indios denotes, its population was originally Indian; but the fertility of the soil, and the advantages of the vicinity to the river Tobasco, have drawn to it numbers of the enterprising and industrious; and its population is said to amount to more than 20,000 souls, whilst its ancient rival can scarcely number 4000.

The air of this province is generally very dry; being, in a great measure, sheltered by the mountains of Yucatan; it has less of the cool air which the tropical winds convey to refresh the temperature of this burning region, and it is in consequence very hot. The remark of Humboldt, "that the healthiness of situations in the equinoctial regions depends less on the ratio of heat than on that of humidity," is illustrated by the state of this district; for, though excessively hot, Chiapa is remarkably healthy, and has furnished as striking instances of longevity as any part of the globe. This province has obtained considerable celebrity from its first bishop, Bartholomew de las Casas, who exaggerated the cruelties of the original European adventurers. In the fanatical office of defender of the Indians, he discovered as much folly as humanity, and first invented the African slave trade; and thus, to cure evils in a great measure imaginary, and certainly heightened in the representation, introduced a system which has become the scourge and the opprobrium of humanity.

The last, but by far the most important, part of all the provinces of this captain-generalship, is Guatemala Proper. It is a narrow border of rich land on the coast of the Pacific Ocean, extending from the province of Nicaragua to Oaxaca, the frontier province of Mexico; being in length about 450 miles. Its capital is St Jago de Guatemala, in 24° 28' north latitude, and 92° 40' west longitude, which is also the capital of the whole government. It is on the river Vacas near the South Sea. The harbour is capable only of admitting vessels of an easy draught of water, and that only at high tides. The city is on a beautiful situation, very well built, and remarkable for the salubrity of its air. It contains about 24,000 inhabitants, among whom are many ancient Creole families, and many rich capitalists. The greater portion of the wealth of the whole kingdom may be said to centre here. It is the residence of the captain-general, who has extensive power and great emoluments. The supreme court of justice, the royal audience, exercises its functions here. It is the seat of an archbishop, has a celebrated university, and those various boards of revenue, police, and commerce, which generally are found in Spanish transatlantic capitals. It was anciently incorporated, and its municipal corporation has extensive power, and enjoys considerable estates. It is in a situation peculiarly exposed to earthquakes, by which it has been considerably distressed. In 1751 it was thrown down, and whilst in ruins a volcano in its vicinity burst over it, and increased the sufferings of the few survivors. It was, however, rebuilt on the same spot, and in the year 1775 experienced a more dreadful concussion; the greater part of the inhabitants were buried in the ruins of their dwellings, and the whole scene of horror equalled, if it did not exceed, any that the history of such convulsions has narrated. After this last calamity the capital was removed to its present situation, about twenty-five miles more southerly, and is become more extensive and beautiful than the former city. Its inhabitants are said to be distinguished by sprightliness, intelligence, and suavity of manners, and the females to possess uncommon beauty. The difficulty of access to markets for the disposal of their valuable produce checked the growth of riches in this district for a long period. In the year 1798 a project was entertained, which has given them a vent, and has augmented the cultivation and the wealth of the province in an extraordinary degree. The captain-general, aided by the Cabildo, began a road through the forest of Tarifa, and thus opened a passage by land from the bay of Tecuantepec in the Pacific Ocean to the river del Passo, which runs into the Huassacualco, and thus empties itself into the Gulf of Mexico. By this vent, which was opened in 1800, the productions of Guatemala have been conveyed to Vera-Cruz on their way to Europe. The effects of it have been to double the produce of the cocoa plantations, and to multiply those of the indigo farms in a fivefold degree. The great kingdom of Mexico has a demand for cocoa far beyond its growth, and by this new vent it has been amply supplied. Indigo is a production better furnished from Guatemala than from any other part of the western world, and now having a secure passage to the best markets, it will probably go on still rapidly increasing. The present mode of conveyance is by mules from St Miguel on the river Chimalapa to the junction of the rivers Saravia and del Passo, and it has been contemplated to cut a canal this distance of six or seven leagues, and thus obtain water carriage the whole way from Guatemala to the Gulf of Mexico. In noticing such projects, it is impossible not to remark, that these new modes of intercourse, though, in the first instance, beneficial only to the Spanish dominions, would become so speedily to the whole civilized world.

Indigo and cocoa have been already noticed as important productions of Guatemala. The amount of the indigo prepared was estimated in 1805 at L. 600,000 Sterling, and the cocoa exported, after furnishing abundance to the 30,000 fanegas, or nearly 16,000 tons. A considerable quantity of cochineal is collected; but it is generally inferior to that of Oaxaca, the adjoining province. Sugar is raised sufficient for the domestic consumption, but it will not pay the carriage necessary to convey it to market. Cotton is cultivated to a considerable extent, though but little exported; and the gins used in separating the seed from the wool have not yet been generally used, nor have they any presses, by which to reduce the bulk of that article, and render the expence of its transportation more moderate. Hemp and flax are cultivated sufficiently to supply the demand of the country; but though the soil and climate are admirably calculated for those articles, the difficulty of conveyance is an obstacle to their increase.

The most important place after the capital is San- sonate, containing a population, including the surrounding district, of near 40,000 souls; the town itself, however, does not comprehend more than one-tenth of the inhabitants, the rest are on the plantations near it, and consist principally of Indians and mixed castes. St Salvador, a town of about 5000 inhabitants, is twelve miles from the Pacific Ocean, by means of which it carries on some coasting trade, principally in sugar. There are some other places denominated towns, but they are rather the chief residence of the missionaries employed in converting and regulating the Indians, than well peopled places. Ecclesiastical authority is the principal engine used to keep the untutored Indians in subjection; they are generally submissive to the priests, and readily supply them with those comforts which the country yields, often to the neglect of their own relatives. Many of the priests are natives of the country, but some are Europeans; all, however, are obliged to learn the two most prevailing Indian languages, the Poconche, and the Cacchiquel; for though most of the indigenous inhabitants have been taught some portion of the Castilian tongue, they use it with reluctance, and very rarely in their own separate districts. There is great jealousy between those priests who are natives of the country, and those who arrive from Europe; and though the archbishop and the several bishops, in adjusting such differences as arise, should decide with the greatest equity, yet their judgments are received with suspicion, if not with resistance, by the priests of the Indian race.

Notwithstanding the extent of Guatemala and its numerous population, the advantages which Spain derives from its possession are very trifling. The whole revenue drawn from the inhabitants, with the tax on the Indians, amounts to scarcely sufficient to pay the salaries of the officers of government. It has little or no direct trade with Europe, and the whole amount of its imports does not exceed L. 450,000 Sterling. Its exports amount to about L. 50,000 more, and being principally to Mexico, the region of silver, the balance is paid in that article.

During the commotions which have agitated many other parts of the Spanish dominions, Guatemala has been very little disturbed; though decided symptoms of insurrection were manifested at the end of the year 1810 and beginning of 1811. The intelligence that the French armies were in possession of Seville and all Andalusia, spread consternation throughout Mexico and Guatemala; in the former, an insurrection, of a most formidable nature, had broken out, by which the north-west part of the viceroyalty, and almost the whole coast of the South Sea, was in a state of resistance to the viceroy.

Morelos commanded this force, and had defeated the royalists in a pitched battle, by which the whole of Oaxaca was open to him, from whence he would naturally have held an intercourse with Guatemala.

At that period, symptoms of turbulence were exhibited in St Salvador by the mulattos of that province. The different mixed castes amounted to 90,000 men capable of bearing arms; the Indians to 65,000. The white population was much more esteemed by the Indians than the mixed Creoles, and though the latter addressed them with promises of abolishing the capitation-tax, and assurances that what they had paid since the imprisonment of Ferdinand should be refunded to them, their adherence to the whites remained unshaken. At first the mulattos committed some excesses at the instigation of leaders who preached equality and liberty in the style of the French Convention. The whites, however, rallied, and Don Josef Ayzinena, an officer of considerable coolness and judgment, having opportunely arrived, they were enabled, without bloodshed, to restore tranquillity. In the province of Nicaragua, symptoms of similar dispositions were discovered at the same period, but the mulattos were a less proportion of the whole population, and, after various meetings, the different parties agreed to refer all matters in dispute to the bishop, and requested him to exercise the sole authority. As tranquillity was thus restored in the two provinces which were most dreaded, the Captain-General, and the royal audience, supported by the Cabildo of St Jago, were enabled to raise a force of white men, to overawe the mulattos, and give confidence to the Indians.

Whilst these agitations were proceeding, the forces of Morelos, happily for the tranquillity of Guatemala, instead of advancing to Oaxaca, directed their operations towards a different quarter, and thus gave time to consolidate the powers of the different governors of its provinces, and secure tranquillity. Two years afterwards, the insurgents gained possession of Oaxaca; but Morelos ascertained that he could make no impression on Guatemala, and that, if he met with any reverse, it could not be easily repaired at that distance from his resources; he therefore left it to enjoy its tranquillity without molestation.

As the knowledge of the geography of Spanish America was very imperfect when the Encyclopedia was published, we have deemed it proper to give the latitudes and longitudes of the most considerable places in Guatemala, according to the most recent authorities.

<table> <tr> <th></th> <th>North latitude.</th> <th>West longitude from Greenwich.</th> </tr> <tr> <td>Amatique,</td> <td>15.23.0</td> <td>89. 0.0</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Chiapa Real,</td> <td>17. 0.0</td> <td>93.23.0</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Chiapa de los Indios,</td> <td>17. 5.0</td> <td>93.53.0</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Valladolid,</td> <td>14.30.0</td> <td>88.19.0</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Cuzcatlan,</td> <td>13.40.0</td> <td>89.20.0</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Gracias A Dios,</td> <td>14.30.0</td> <td>90. 5.0</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Granada,</td> <td>11.15.0</td> <td>86.15.0</td> </tr> <tr> <td>St Jago de Guatimala,</td> <td>14.28.0</td> <td>92.40.0</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Nicoya,</td> <td>10.42.0</td> <td>85.53.0</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Omoa,</td> <td>15.50.0</td> <td>89.53.0</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Realexo,</td> <td>12.45.0</td> <td>87.30.0</td> </tr> <tr> <td>San Salvador,</td> <td>13.40.0</td> <td>89.20.0</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Soconusco,</td> <td>15.28.0</td> <td>94.36.0</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Suchitepec,</td> <td>14.44.0</td> <td>93.36.0</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Truxillo,</td> <td>15.51.0</td> <td>86. 8.0</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Vera Paz,</td> <td>15.50.0</td> <td>91.14.0</td> </tr> </table>

(w. w.)