Abyssinia, a large country on the eastern coast of Africa, and the chief of the native kingdoms of that continent, is bounded on the east by the Red Sea, on the north and west by the barren sands of Nubia, on the south by unknown ranges of desert, and barbarous kingdoms. The country itself is diversified by many chains of high and rugged mountains. The loftiest appears to be that of Lamalmon, which, with the mountains of Samen to the west, and other branches stretching in various directions, nearly cover all Tigre or Northern Abyssinia. These mountains are of various shapes, and tost about in a confusion so wild, that Bruce, with some exaggeration, has compared some of them to pyramids pitched on their bases. The assertion made by the early missionaries, that the Alps and Pyrenees are but molehills in comparison, has proved to be a ridiculous hyperbole; but snow does actually fall on some of the more lofty pinnacles—a fact which, under the tropics, indicates a very great elevation. In the west, the mountains of Gojam are not nearly so high, but cover a great extent of territory. They are inhabited by the Agows, a primitive pastoral race, who worship the Nile.
In our climates, great ranges of mountains render a region picturesque indeed in its appearance, but naked and unfertile. It is quite otherwise beneath the burning suns of the tropic. Exposed to their influence, soils of the greatest natural fertility soon become parched and arid: they must be watered and even inundated, ere crops can cover them. Fortune under this latitude is the country which, like Abyssinia, is filled with storehouses of water, which, formed in the mountains, are thence diffused over every part of its surface. Thus its numerous plains and valleys are not surpassed in fertility by any region in the world. Rice, the great Asiatic grain, has not been introduced; but on many parts of its varied surface, wheat, barley, and other grains of the temperate climates, are copiously raised. The low and hot grounds are chiefly covered with teff, a weak herbaceous plant with a thin stalk, and grains not much larger than the head of a pin, out of which is made the bread in general use throughout the kingdom. A black bread for the poorest classes is made from a still coarser grain called focussa. The horses are strong and beautiful, and the herds numerous, among which is a species of oxen with horns of monstrous length, introduced by the Galla. Bees swarm on all the hills, and Abyssinia is a land flowing with excellent honey. The nobler animals of prey, the lion, and the tiger, are scarcely known; but ferocious and untameable hyenas haunt in crowds the scenes of slaughter which the country too often presents: they roam by night through the cities, and enter even the houses. The buffalo is here wild and furious, roaming through the most lonely and unfrequented tracts. Along the banks of the rivers, amid the copious moisture there afforded, and the rank vegetation to which it gives rise, those huge animals, the elephant, the rhinoceros, the river-horse, and the crocodile, toss their unwieldy bulk. All the ravages committed by them, however, are trivial when compared with what Abyssinia suffers from swarms of locusts, which here, as in other parts of the East, appear sometimes in close array like regular armies, and in a few days devour the harvest of provinces.
The numerous waters of Abyssinia unite in two great rivers, which though they do not, as some have supposed, constitute the Nile, reach and swell the channel of that Abyssinian great river. All the western mountains are drained by the Tacazze, which rolls for a great part of its course through deep valleys, choked with luxuriant vegetation, and tenanted only by wild beasts and human savages. It then penetrates the sands of Nubia, and joins the Nile in the district of Berber. The numerous streams of Gojam unite in forming the Dembea, a great lake in the heart of the kingdom, out of which flows the Azergue, or Blue River, which many of the moderns have obstinately held to be the main stream of the Nile. Bruce, indeed, on viewing its sources, announced himself as having accomplished the object of an arduous journey, by discovering the springs of that famous river. It is now, however, considered to be a clear point, that when the Blue River, after taking a semicircular sweep through Abyssinia, and passing its precincts, meets the Abiad, or White River, the latter, coming from sources far to the west and in the interior of Africa, is a much deeper and greater stream, and entitled to be considered as the real Nile, to which the other is only a tributary.
Abyssinia, though thus mountainous, does not contain many mineral productions; for the gold, of which a good deal passes through it, is brought from countries farther in the interior. It has, however, on its frontier a great plain, about four days' journey across, covered entirely with salt. There is generally a depth of two feet of perfectly pure and hard salt on the surface; below, the mineral is coarser and softer. Both the digging for the salt and the carrying it off are very dangerous operations, from the vicinity of barbarous plundering tribes, always ready to attack those employed, who must therefore be associated in numerous and well-armed bodies.
Abyssinia was evidently included by the ancients under that wide territory to which they gave the name of Ethiopia, and which includes all Africa south of Egypt, and of the mountain range of Atlas. It formed no part, however, of the celebrated Ethiopia, whose capital was Meroe. This region, involved in dim religious mystery, which conquered Egypt, and which Cambyses vainly sought to conquer, comprised the territory along the Upper Nile now known by the name of Nubia. Abyssinia, barred by lofty mountains, by forests, marshes, and deserts, is not recorded as having ever been reached by any land expedition. Neither Petronius, when sent by Augustus against Queen Candace, nor Probus in his expedition against the Blemmyes, arrived even at Meroe; and consequently did not make an approach towards Abyssinia. Herodotus indeed mentions the isle of the Exiles, on which a numerous body of deserters from Psammetichus, king of Egypt, were settled by the Ethiopian monarch. As that historian, however, evidently understands this isle, by which, according to the practice of antiquity, he means a region inclosed by river-channels, to extend along the Nile, which river he understood to come from the west, it would appear that this description must have pointed either to Sennar, or some region on the Bahr-el-Abiad, and could comprehend no part of the modern Abyssinia. The only slight notices which the ancients gleamed respecting that country, were obtained by the way of its coast, situated on the Red Sea.
It is a firm article in the national creed of Abyssinia, that the Queen of Sheba, who came from the remotest south to listen to and admire the wisdom of Solo- Abyssinia. mon, was their queen; and that it was Abyssinia which furnished the splendid and costly presents which she brought to Jerusalem. They add with equal confidence, that her majesty returned pregnant by that great monarch, and brought forth a son, Menilek, whose posterity, though with some interruption, continued to rule over Abyssinia; the monarchs of which country thus boast themselves to be of the race of Solomon. This genealogy, however deeply rooted in Abyssinian conviction, does not seem tenable on any rational grounds. The two leading features were the profusion of aromatics and the numerous camels. But the camel is an animal decidedly Arabian, has never been naturalized in Abyssinia, nor is at all suited to the rugged surface of that country; and even if an Abyssinian queen had possessed a stock of these animals, she would have had no convenience, or even possibility, in that era of navigation, of transporting them across the Arabian Gulf. The abundance of spices is equally foreign to the rugged soil of Abyssinia, and characteristic of that of Saba, or the happy Arabia of the classic writers, to which, indeed, every indication points as identical with the Sheba of Scripture. The commerce between Sheba and Judea is often mentioned in the sacred writings, and always as a land intercourse, carried on by camels, and in numerous caravans. It may be observed, also, that the inspired writers nowhere give the least hint of that species of intimacy between Solomon and her majesty, upon which the Abyssinians found this genealogical claim.
Strabo has given some notices of Abyssinia, not in connection with Egypt or with Africa, but with Arabia, as forming the western coast of the Arabian Gulf. It would be difficult, and not very edifying, to verify the successive chain of his positions; but we may recognise already the leading features which distinguish modern Abyssinia; the vast herds and huntings of the elephant; the extreme rudeness of many among the native tribes, living in caves under the shelter of trees; the prevalence of barbarous and dissolute manners; the use of blood as an article of diet; copious libations of hydromel among the higher ranks, and of an infusion of grain among the lower. He represents them as wrapping pieces of flesh in skins, and swallowing both together; probably an erroneous version of the custom of wrapping slices of meat in teff cakes, and stuffing them down in huge mouthfuls. After a long range of this coast came another, producing incense, aromatics, and even a species of cinnamon. This coast, evidently that of Berbera, terminated in the Southern Horn; the region beyond which was unknown to Strabo, and to Artemidorus, from whom his information was chiefly derived.
An important series of early Abyssinian history has been disclosed by a very slight and casual circumstance. An Egyptian monk, named Cosmas Indicopleustes, having penetrated into Abyssinia, was employed by Elesbaan, the king, to copy two inscriptions on a chair and small column of white marble, which had been erected at the port of Adulis. One of these inscriptions commemorates conquests made in Asia by Ptolemy Euergetes, king of Egypt; the other relates conquests which extended over the greater part of Abyssinia, the provinces of which are mentioned almost under their modern names. Such extensive dominion obtained by Euergetes in this part of Africa excited considerable surprise, especially as no hint of it had been given in any of the Greek writers. Mr Salt copied at Axum a tablet, in which similar exploits, almost in the same terms, are ascribed to Aeizanes, king of the Axumites; and considering the silence of ancient authorities, and that such an extent of Egyptian conquest was rather improbable, he inclines to believe that the second inscription of Cosmas, the commencement of which Abyssinia had been obliterated, related not to Euergetes, but to Aeizanes, and was only a repetition of the Axum inscription. Dr Vincent, however, still adhered to the opinion which makes Ptolemy the subject of both these inscriptions, and consequently supposed him to have made the conquest of Abyssinia.
Some notices respecting the early state of Abyssinia are found in the work entitled Periplus of the Erythrean Sea, written by Arrian, a merchant of Alexandria, and intended seemingly as a coasting guide for the merchants of that capital. In this work Adulis, situated near the modern Masuah, is described as the great emporium of this region, the trade of which consisted chiefly in the exportation of fine ivory, and rhinoceros' horns; in return for which, they imported wine, oil, and many manufactures and luxuries produced in the Roman empire. The ivory was brought chiefly from Coloe, situated three days' journey in the interior; while five days beyond was Axum, the metropolis, and a city of great magnificence, as its ruins still attest. The coast beyond Adulis, forming now the territory of the Baharnegash, was ruled by a prince called Zoskales, who is described as highly polished and intelligent, and as giving the most hospitable reception to the strangers who visited this coast. Abyssinia appears thus by its intercourse with Egypt to have acquired a degree of improvement and refinement which it lost at a subsequent period.
The first event in the modern history of Abyssinia was the introduction of Christianity by Frumentius, in the fourth century. That religion was then embraced by the court and a great proportion of the inhabitants; and the church of Abyssinia has since, with a short interval, during which the Romish religion prevailed, continued subject to the patriarch of Alexandria, and has observed the peculiar doctrines and ritual of the Alexandrian church. Soon after this period reigned Elesbaan, the most powerful and only conquering prince that ever occupied the throne of Abyssinia. Involved by religious antipathies in hostility with the Sabaeans or Homrites, on the opposite coast of Arabia Felix, he invaded, and appears to have made himself completely master of that country. He assembled next a formidable force, with which he advanced and laid siege to the already sacred city of Mecca. Tradition represents his army as partly mounted upon elephants, from which this expedition was termed the war of the elephant. According to the Arabian historians, a miraculous shower of stones destroyed the Ethiopian army; and we may probably conclude that famine and disease, in this barren and dreary region, thinned its ranks, and compelled it to a disastrous retreat.
Notwithstanding this check, the Ethiopian monarchs appear to have held sway over a considerable part of Abyssinia, till the time when the rise of the religion of Mahomet, and its diffusion by force of arms, changed the face of the East. The Mahometans boast that they established their faith in Abyssinia; but no tradition or history of that country gives any countenance to the assertion, nor does its present state exhibit the least vestige of such a change. It appears, however, that they were driven before this torrent of fanatical conquest out of all their possessions in Arabia; that Islamism even crossed the sea, and established itself in Adel and other territories, by which Abyssinia is closely hemmed in, and with whose people she was ever after involved in rooted hostility, both religious and political.
From this time we are reduced to the dim lights of Abyssinian tradition, which appear, however, to record a remarkable revolution. The Mahometan conquest had byssinia. driven before it a considerable number of Jews, who, amid the calamities of their country, had established themselves in different parts of Arabia. They sought refuge in Abyssinia, where they became numerous and powerful, and even established an independent dominion in the province of Samen. Judith, a Jewish princess, possessed of more than manly courage, and ruthless ambition, conceived the design of usurping for herself and her country the entire sovereignty of the kingdom. Availing herself of the singular custom of immuring the whole royal family on the top of a mountain, she gained possession of this post, and made a general massacre of all those who could advance any claim to the throne. The infant king, however, was carried off by some faithful adherents, and conveyed to Shoa, where his authority was acknowledged; while Judith reigned for forty years over the rest of the kingdom, and transmitted the crown to her posterity. In 1268, however, the house of Solomon, as it was called, (chiefly, it is said, through the influence of Tecla Haimanout, a monk highly revered for sanctity,) was restored in the person of Icon Amlac.
From the time of Icon Amlac the Abyssinians appear to have kept regular annals, and record a list of successive kings. Mr Bruce has even drawn up from these annals a somewhat detailed history of Abyssinia. But a narrative containing only the contests of these barbarous tribes, mingled with superstition and fable, and illuminated by few traits of honour and generosity, is little calculated to edify or interest. For a long time it was diversified chiefly by the wars with Adel, a country situated along the coast of the Arabian Gulf. The Adelians had embraced the Moslem creed, so that national antipathies were heightened by religious bigotry, which rages so fiercely in uninformed minds. The war was therefore carried on with excessive fury, each party signalizing their victory by burning towns and villages, and making a general massacre of the people. After a contest of several centuries, Adel appears to have been completely humbled, and is no longer mentioned among the enemies of Abyssinia. Violent dissensions then arose on the subject of religion. The Romish faith was introduced by a succession of missionaries from Europe; and several of the kings not only embraced, but endeavoured to impose this religion by violence upon their subjects. This gave rise to civil wars, which did not terminate even after the missionaries had been banished, the Catholic system abolished, and the nation had been replaced under the spiritual sway of the Patriarch of Alexandria.
About two centuries ago, Abyssinia began to suffer from a new and formidable enemy, by which she has ever since been more and more hardly pressed. From the southern interior regions the Galla, a negro and Pagan race of the most uncoth and savage aspect, and surpassing in ferocity even the Abyssinians themselves, began a series of desolating inroads, sparing neither age nor sex. For a long time they succeeded only in desultory incursions, and were uniformly routed in the open field; but at last, taking advantage of the dissensions in which the kingdom was still plunged, they insinuated themselves into the service of different chiefs, and acquired a degree of discipline which rendered them truly formidable. They have thus finally succeeded in overrunning all the central and finest portions of the kingdom, and leaving to the native rulers only two detached and severed portions.
After this rapid sketch of Abyssinian history, it will be progress of discovery. a more interesting object to trace the steps by which the country was penetrated and explored by Europeans, and their observations on the peculiar and striking features of nature and society which it presents.
About the year 330, an ecclesiastic named Frumentius, who had been travelling with his relation, Meropius, a Abyssinian Tyrian philosopher, and who, at an island in the Red Sea, had become acquainted with some Abyssinians, represented to Athanasius, the patriarch of Alexandria, the wish of these people to have Christianity introduced into their country. Frumentius was accordingly consecrated Bishop of Axum by the patriarch, and appears to have made many converts among the Abyssinians. But as Constantine the Roman Emperor had embraced Arianism, and was at variance with the patriarch of Alexandria, he was desirous to recall Frumentius, either that he might appoint an Arian bishop, or that Frumentius might be re-consecrated by one of that persuasion. With this view he wrote a letter to the monarch of Abyssinia. By whom this letter was conveyed is not certain, though it is probable that it was by a person named Theophilus, who travelled into that country about A.D. 333. The only notice which remains of the journey of Theophilus is given by Philostorgius (Hist. Eccl.), and it is very meagre. Theophilus found the descendants of some Syrians in Abyssinia, sprung, he supposes, from a Syrian colony planted there in the time of Alexander the Great.
In the year 533, the conquests of the Abyssinians in Arabia, and the warm professions of friendship which they held out to the Roman empire, induced Justinian to send an embassy into that remote country, with the hope of persuading its sovereign to employ his forces then in Arabia against the Persian monarch. At this period the Abyssinians were acquainted with the arts of navigation, and had recently imbibed the spirit of trade, and acquired the sea-port of Adule, from which they penetrated along the African coast, as far as the equator, in search of gold, emeralds, and aromatics. For this important commission Justinian selected Nonnous, descended from a family of ambassadors. He took the route of the Nile, from which he crossed to the Red Sea, and landed at the port of Adule. Though the distance of this place from Axum, at that period the residence of the sovereigns of Abyssinia, is only fifty leagues, yet the winding passes of the mountains which lie between them detained Nonnous fifteen days. He was received with great pomp and favour by the Abyssinian monarch, Amula, or Ameda; but we are not very distinctly informed as to the fate of his mission. Of his original narrative, some extracts only are preserved in the Bibliotheca of Photius, and in the Chronographia of John Malala. From these, among other particulars, we learn that Nonnous saw, in his passage through the forests which intervene between Adule and Axum, an immense number of wild elephants; and that the Abyssinian monarch gave audience in an open field, seated on a lofty chariot drawn by four elephants superbly caparisoned, and surrounded by his nobles and musicians. In his hand he held two javelins, and a light shield; his clothing was a linen garment and fillet; and though thus imperfectly covered, he displayed a profusion of gold chains, collars, and bracelets, adorned with pearls and precious stones. Nonnous represents Axum as large and populous. In detailing his passage over the mountains of Taranta, he remarks the great contrast of the seasons on different sides of it; from Ave to the coast, it was summer and harvest time; whereas from Ave to Axum, and the rest of Abyssinia, it was winter. The truth of this observation is amply confirmed by Mr Salt.
About the same period Cosmas, surnamed Indicopleustes, or the Indian Navigator, visited Adule. It was the design of this author, in publishing his work entitled Topographia Christiana, to confute the heretical opinion that the earth is a globe, and offer proofs that it was a flat oblong, as represented in the Scriptures. His voyage Abyssinia was performed A. D. 522, and his book published at Alexandria A. D. 547. Photius, to whom we are indebted for many curious extracts from works now lost, gives some interesting passages from it; and the complete work was published by Montfaucon, at Paris, in 1707, in the Nova Collectio Patrum, tom. ii. The most valuable part of it has been published in French and Greek, by Melchisidec Thevenot, in his Relations de Divers Voyages Curieux, non encore publiées ou traduites, Paris, 1682. To this author we are indebted for the Adulic inscriptions. It appears that Elesbaan, king of the Axumites, had ordered the governor of Adule to send him a copy of these inscriptions; and the governor employed Cosmas, who happened to be there at that time, and one Menas, a merchant, for that purpose. Till Mr Salt examined these inscriptions, during his first journey, they had always been regarded as forming only one; though in this view their meaning was not very clear, and they were at variance with authenticated history; but he satisfactorily proved, that instead of being a single inscription, referring exclusively to Ptolemy Euergetes, there were two distinct inscriptions, one of which refers to Ptolemy, and the other to the affairs of Abyssinia. The former inscription, among other things, mentions that Ptolemy and his father were the first that brought elephants from the Troglodytes and Ethiopia.
Besides the interesting information which Cosmas affords respecting the port and inscription of Adule, he particularly describes the trade of the Axumites along the African coast of Barbary or Zingi, and as far as Trapobane, Ceylon; and mentions, that every other year the king of Axum sent several persons of distinction to traffic with the natives of Agow for gold, which they bartered for cattle, salt, and iron. The journey commonly occupied six months. He represents the fountains of the Nile as in the vicinity of Agow, which sufficiently points it out as the country of the Agows mentioned by Peter Paez, who travelled in Abyssinia in the beginning of the seventeenth century.
Respecting Abyssinia, the notices of travellers are few and very meagre, from the time of Cosmas and Nonnous, to the conclusion of the fifteenth century. We find it mentioned by Marco Polo, and by Ibn El Wardi, an Arabian author; and some slight notices, particularly of the religious missions into that country, till the year 1500, are supplied by Renaudot, from the Coptic writers, in his Historia Patriarcharum Alexandrinorum, Paris, 1713.
At the close of the fifteenth century, the Portuguese missions into Abyssinia commenced: they originated in rather a singular circumstance. John II. king of Portugal was extremely anxious to discover the residence of Prester John, who had long been represented in Europe as a Christian sovereign of great power, ruling somewhere in the centre of Asia. For this purpose, John sent Peter Covilham and Alphonso or Michael de Payva into Asia: the latter soon died, but the former, during his abode on the western coasts of the Red Sea, hearing much of the Abyssinian emperor, and of his being a Christian, concluded that he had found the object of his search. He immediately conveyed this information to his own court, and proceeded himself to Shoa, then the residence of the Negush, or monarch of Abyssinia. He was received and treated with great kindness and respect; but, according to the usual policy of the Abyssinian court at that period, he was not permitted to leave the country. An account of his residence is given by Damian Goez, in his Legatio Magni Indorum Presb. Joan. ad Emanuel Lusitaniae, Antwerp, 1552. King Emanuel, who was desirous of maintaining an intercourse with the sovereign of Abyssinia, (not less from commercial and political than religious motives,) sent an embassy into that country in the year 1520. At the head of this embassy he placed the famous Edward Galvan, who had been secretary of state, and ambassador in France, Germany, and Rome. The selection of such a man points out the importance which Emanuel attached to this mission. But unfortunately, Galvan, being extremely old, was unequal to the fatigues of so long and dangerous a journey, and died soon after the embassy entered the Red Sea. In his stead Rodriguez de Lima was appointed; and Francisco Alvarez, who had been chaplain to Galvan, was continued in the same office by Rodriguez. Their journey from the coast of the Red Sea was long and troublesome, on account of the heat of the climate and the badness of the roads; but they arrived at the Abyssinian court on the 12th of April 1520, where they were received with much splendour and courtesy by the Emperor David. They were detained in Abyssinia six years, from various causes; and on their departure, the emperor requested Rodriguez to leave behind him his physician, John Bermudez, and a painter of his retinue, with which request the ambassador complied. Alvarez wrote a minute account of Abyssinia, of which there are several editions,—that published by himself at Lisbon in 1540; a Spanish translation from the Portuguese, published at Antwerp in 1557; an Italian translation from the Portuguese manuscript, published by Ramusio in his Collection of Voyages, lib. i., (which differs materially from the Lisbon edition); a French translation in 1558; and an English translation, in Purchas's Collection of Voyages. The value and accuracy of this author's statements have been differently appreciated; but it seems probable that several fabrications were published in his name; for Damian Goez asserts that he had seen a journal written by Alvarez, very different from most of the published works.1 In some respects, the description which he gives of Abyssinia is extremely valuable. No European traveller, since his time, has visited Angot, Amhara, and Shoa; the first a region occupied by the Pagan Galla, and bordering with some barbarous tribes near the Red Sea. This traveller visited Axum a short time before it was almost totally destroyed by the Turkish invasion, and he describes it as a large and beautiful place. According to him, none of the cities of Abyssinia contained more than fifteen hundred houses; a statement with which the assertion of Bruce, that Gondar, when he was there, contained ten thousand families, can hardly be reconciled.
In the year 1538, Bermudez was sent back to Portugal, as ambassador from the Abyssinian monarch; and after a short abode at Lisbon, he was ordered to return by the way of Goa, and take from that place some troops to reinforce the Abyssinian, who at this period had been compelled to take shelter from the Moors in the mountainous part of his kingdom. The reinforcement was landed at Massowa, and after a difficult journey through the mountainous passes and defiles, they joined the emperor. Bermudez published an account of his journey at Lisbon in 1565. There are also editions of it published at the same place in 1569 and 1615, which are very scarce. It was translated into English by Purchas (Pilgrims, l. vii. c. vii. p. 1149), and from thence into French by La Croze, (Christianisme d'Ethiopie, p. 92-265.) But the greater part of his work relates to the victories, defeat, and death
1 The translation of Ramusio was made from a manuscript supplied by Goez. of the Portuguese general, Christopher de Gama; and is principally valuable from the description which he gives of some, otherwise little known, parts of the country, which he visited in the course of the war.
In the year 1556, Ignatius Loyola, at the urgent request of an Abyssinian priest called Peter, who had visited Rome, projected a new mission into Abyssinia, and by his influence with the king of Portugal, persuaded him to send an ambassador and a patriarch along with the missionaries. They went first to Goa, where they learned that an entrance into Abyssinia by the Red Sea would be extremely difficult and dangerous, if not quite impracticable, as the Turks carefully guarded the sea-coasts with their ships. In consequence of this intelligence, it was resolved that the ambassador and the patriarch should not attempt the journey; and of the missionaries only one arrived in Abyssinia. An account of this mission was published in 1615;1 it contains a great deal of curious information, but ought to be read, like all the other accounts of the Jesuit missionaries, with great caution.
From this period, till the close of the sixteenth century, Abyssinia was extremely difficult of access, in consequence of the Turks having exclusive possession of the sea-coast. At length, in 1589, Philip II. of Spain, anxious to renew the alliance between the two courts, sent a letter to the Abyssinian monarch by an Italian bishop, John Baptista, and a person of the name of Lewis de Mendoza, who was then settled at Diu, and was well acquainted with the commerce of the Red Sea. The bishop died during his journey, but Mendoza penetrated into Abyssinia, delivered his letter, and carried back one from the emperor to Philip. In consequence of his success, Mendoza was sent on a second mission, and sailed from Goa in February 1589, accompanied by Antonio de Montserrat, a Catalonian, and Peter Pacz, a Spaniard. In their voyage they were shipwrecked and taken prisoners. This circumstance proved of great advantage to Pacz, who, being a man of considerable talents, and of great activity of mind, as well as zeal, spent the seven years of his captivity in making himself a perfect master of the Arabian language. In consequence of the intelligence of their misfortune reaching Goa, two other missionaries were dispatched for Abyssinia; Abraham de Georgii, a man of great learning and courage, and a thorough master of all the eastern languages, and Melchior de Silva, by birth an Indian: only the latter, however, arrived in Abyssinia, the former having been taken and beheaded by the Mahometans. In the mean time, Peter Pacz having been ransomed, found means to penetrate into Abyssinia, where he soon gained an ascendancy over the mind of the emperor. He is the first European who visited what the Abyssinians deem the sources of the Nile. He died in that country in the year 1622; and his manuscript, detailing the affairs of Abyssinia from the year 1556 to his death, was transmitted to Rome, where it is said to be still preserved. The only extract which has been printed from it relates to his journey to the sources of the Nile, and is given by Kircher in his Ædipus Ægyptiacus. Pacz was succeeded, in 1623, by Father Emanuel D'Almeida, who travelled from Massowa, by Adejada, across the plain Serawc, and partly along the course of the Mareb, till he arrived at the monastery of Fremona, the usual residence of the missionaries. He was succeeded by another of the society of Jesuits called Antonio de Angelis, who was Abyssinia-famous for his skill in the Amharic language. In 1624, Alphons Mendez was sent patriarch into Abyssinia. He arrived at Fremona on the 21st of June in that year; but, on account of the dangerous travelling through Tigré at that season, he was obliged to stay there till the October following, when he went to the residence of the emperor, by whom he was received with great pomp. His behaviour, however, was not such as to render him long a favourite; and he was ordered to retire to Fremona. Scarcely had he arrived there, before he received a fresh order to leave the kingdom; and, not immediately complying, he was conducted to Massowa. He wrote the history of Abyssinia in Latin, a French translation of which was printed at Lisle in 1633.2 During the residence of Mendez in this kingdom, Peter Heyling of Lubeck, a Lutheran, well versed in the Arabic, ingratiated himself into the favour of the Abuna, or metropolitan bishop of Abyssinia at Alexandria, and visited that country along with him; and he continued for several years, being highly esteemed by the court and the clergy, both on account of his skill and success in medicine, and his knowledge of the oriental languages, and of polemic divinity. Respecting the cause and period of his return there is some obscurity. Mendez asserts that he was ordered to leave the kingdom; whereas Ludolphus asserts that the emperor was very unwilling to part with him. He did not live to revisit Europe, having been put to death on his return, either by the Arabs or by the bashaw of Suakem. An account of his life, and the few particulars which he transmitted to his friends respecting Abyssinia, were published in German, in the year 1724, along with an epitome, in the same language, of Geddes's Ecclesiastical History of Ethiopia. From the character and attainments of Heyling, in connection with the opportunities of observation and information which he enjoyed, there is no doubt that, had he lived to return to Europe, he would have added considerably to the stock of knowledge at that time possessed regarding this country.
In the suite of Alphons Mendez was Father Lobo, who, during the greater part of the nine years that he resided in Abyssinia, was rector of the college of Fremona. His description of that country, and history of his travels, though simple and succinct, is much superior in clearness and accuracy to the relations of any of the travellers who had preceded him. Lobo resided for some time in the province of Damot, near the sources of the Nile. It has been supposed, though we imagine, erroneously, that A short Relation of the river Nile, of its Source and Current, by an Eye-witness, which was first published in 1668, and afterwards republished by Dr Rotheram in 1791, was procured at Lisbon from Lobo himself. This account of the sources of the Nile differs in some respects from the account given in Le Grand's translation of Lobo. His work was originally published in Portuguese, but it is much better known in the French translation of Le Grand, and in the English translation by Dr Johnson.
In 1660, Father Tellez, at the request of the society of Jesuits, published his General History of Abyssinia under the following title: Historia Geral de Ethiopia Alta, ou Preste Ioan, &c. Coimbra, 1660, folio.3 In compiling this work, he had the advantage of consulting all the relations which the missionaries had drawn up, as well as the an-
1 De Æthiopie Patriarchis, J. N. Barreto et Andrea Oviedo, P. N. Godigno. Lugduni, 1615. 2 Relation du Révérendissime Patriarche d'Ethiopie, Dom. Alphons Mendez, touchant la conversion des ames qui s'est faite en cet Empire. 3 An abridged translation of this work, entitled Travels of the Jesuits in Ethiopia, was published in the second volume of Knapton's New Collection of Voyages and Travels, Lond. 1711. Abyssinia. nual letters which they had sent to the college of Jesuits at Lisbon; and, as is noticed in the title-page, the relation of Emanuel d'Almeyda is here abridged.
The Portuguese having lost their credit and influence in Abyssinia by the haughty behaviour of Mendez, the French resolved to use their endeavours to establish themselves in that country; and for this purpose Louis XIV. wrote a letter to the father of the emperor, who was then on the throne, which reached him, though by what means we are not informed. At the same time instructions were sent to M. Maillet, the French consul at Cairo, to second the plans of his court; and accordingly, having learned that the emperor was ill, he dispatched Poncet, a physician, to cure him. Along with Poncet was sent, by the influence of the Jesuits, Father de Brevedent, a man particularly conversant in astronomy. They embarked on the Nile on the 10th of June 1698, and arrived within a day and half's journey of Gondar on the 3d of July of the following year. Here the father died, and Poncet, having rested himself till the 21st of the same month, set out for Gondar. He particularly describes the public audience which was granted him by the emperor, and his rich and splendid attire. Respecting the latter, and also in what he says concerning Gondar, his accounts are considerably at variance with the relations of the Portuguese missionaries: hence the fidelity of his work has been called in question, especially by Le Grand, though on no sufficient grounds. Having succeeded in curing the Abyssinian monarch, he set out from Gondar in the summer of 1700, by the way of Massowa, and arrived safe in France, where he published a distinct account of his journey. A translation of it is given in Lockman's Travels of the Jesuits. The learned works of Ludolphus—Historia Ethiopica, Francof. 1681; Commentarius in Historiam Ethiopicam, Francof. 1691; and Relatio Nova, &c. 1693, must not be passed over: for though he chiefly compiled them from the writings of the Portuguese missionaries already mentioned, he was enabled to add considerably to their stock of information, by means of his great knowledge of the Ethiopian language,—by his conversations with Gregory, an intelligent and liberal Abyssinian priest, whom he invited from Rome to the court of Saxe-Gotha,—and by the report of Morat, an Armenian merchant, who had often been in Abyssinia. The Theologia Ethiopica of Gregory is published in Fabricius's Lux Evangelii.
In 1750, three Franciscans succeeded in penetrating as far as Gondar. From this time, Abyssinia was not reached by any European traveller, till the journey of Bruce.
At the time when Mr Bruce entered Abyssinia, it was rent by civil war. The king Yasous, otherwise popular, had married a Galla princess, an unpopular step, in consequence of which an inveterate prejudice against her, her family, and the king himself, became rooted in the mind of the Abyssinians. The eldest son, after succeeding to the throne, having died, not without suspicion of poison, was succeeded by Ioas, the son of this Galla queen; but the evident preference which he showed for his relations belonging to this hated race, excited a violent discontent, which issued in the rebellion of Marian-Barea, governor of the great province of Be-gender. The king was obliged to call in the aid of Suhul Michael, the almost independent governor of Tigré. Michael immediately obeyed the call, and soon crushed Marian-Barea, who sought refuge among the Galla, by whom he was killed. Michael himself, however, now the real master of the kingdom, could not brook the ascendancy of the king's Galla favourites; and having involved himself in a quarrel with Fasil, the most powerful among that body, both parties took arms. Michael gained a complete victory, after which he put the king to death, and substituted in his place Hannes, an old man, brother to the late monarch, in whose name he administered the affairs of the kingdom with absolute sway. He had before increased his power by marrying Ozoro Esther, widow of Marian-Barea, and reckoned the greatest beauty in the kingdom. Such was the state of affairs when Mr Bruce entered Abyssinia; and as it is to him chiefly that we are indebted for what we know of the remarkable features of that country, it must be interesting to introduce here at some length the particulars of his journey.
On the 15th of November 1769, Mr Bruce, with two guides, left Arkeeko, on the eastern coast of Africa, and proceeded southwards for Gondar, the capital of Abyssinia. After an hour's journey, he pitched his tent near a full pit of rain water, where he remained all day; and being detained by some arrangements with his guides, did not finally set out till the evening of the 16th. For the short space they had travelled, the ground was covered with grass broader in the leaf than ours; but in a little time the soil became hard, dry, gravelly, and full of acacia, or Egyptian thorn. On the 17th, they changed their course from south to west, and soon arrived at a range of mountains standing so close to one another, that there was no passage between them except what was worn by torrents; the bed of one of which consequently now became their road. In the evening they pitched their tent at some distance from this torrent, which contained scarcely any water when they left it; but all the afternoon there had been an appearance of rain, with much thunder and lightning at a distance. On a sudden they heard a noise among the mountains louder than thunder; and instantly saw the torrent, swollen immensely by the distant rains, running like a rapid river, and the foremost part of it presenting a body of water about the height of a man. Having run for some time thus violently, the current, no longer supplied by the rains, began to diminish, and by the next morning was entirely gone. Among these mountains the nights are cold even in summer.
On the 18th the journey was resumed, following the bed of the torrent, now almost dry, though the stones were rendered very slippery by the quantity of rain which had fallen. Leaving this disagreeable road, they came to a fine rivulet; which being the first clear water they had seen from the time Mr Bruce left Syria, was exceedingly agreeable. They proceeded along the banks of this river for some time; and soon after leaving it, they came to another of the same kind; but next day were obliged to resume their course in the bed of a torrent. The mountains in this part of the world are excessively rugged and full of precipices, entirely destitute of soil, and covered with loose stones of a black colour. On the side of the torrent in which they marched, however, there grow very large sycamore trees, some of them little less than 7½ feet in diameter. Their branches afforded shelter to an infinite number of birds, many of them without song, but others having notes very different from the European kinds, and peculiar to the continent of Africa. Most of those which had very beautiful colours were of the jay or magpie kind. The trees were loaded with figs; but they came to nothing, by reason of the ignorance of the savages, who knew not the process of caprification. The streams of water themselves, which at this season were found so delightful, run only after October; they appear on the other side of the mountains when the summer rains in Abyssinia are ceasing; at other times no water is to be met with, excepting what is contained in stagnant pools.
On the 20th of November they began to ascend the Abyssinia, high mountain of Taranta. Their road was now exceedingly rugged and uneven, intersected with monstrous gullies and holes made by the torrents, as well as by huge fragments of rocks which had tumbled down. It was with the utmost difficulty that they could carry the astronomical instruments up the hill; in which work Mr Bruce himself, and one of his attendants named Yasine, a Moor, bore a principal share. The only misfortune they met with was, that their asses, being unloaded, and committed to the care of a single person, refused to ascend this barren mountain; and in spite of all that their drivers could do, set off at a brisk trot for the fertile plains below. Luckily, however, they were afterwards recovered by four Moors sent after them, and the journey resumed without any material interruption.
Taranta is so destitute of earth, that there was no possibility of pitching a tent upon it; so that our travellers were obliged to take up their lodging in one of the caves with which it abounds. The under part of the mountain produces in great plenty the tree called holquall, which was here observed in greater perfection than in any other place throughout the whole journey. The middle part produced olives, which bore no fruit; and the upper part was covered with the oxycedras, or Virginia cedar, called arze in the language of the country. On the top is a small village named Halai, inhabited by poor shepherds, who keep the flocks of the wealthy inhabitants of the town of Dixan below. They are of a dark complexion, inclining to yellow; their hair black, and curled artificially by means of a stick, and which our author supposes to be the same with the crisping-pin mentioned Isa. iii. 22. The men have a girdle of coarse cotton cloth, swathed six times round their middle; and they carry along with them two lances, and a shield made of bulls' hides. Besides these weapons, they have in their girdles a crooked knife with a blade about sixteen inches in length, and three in breadth at the lower part. There is here great plenty of cattle of all kinds; the cows generally milk-white, with dewlaps hanging down to their knees; their horns wide like those of the Lincolnshire cattle, and their hair like silk. The sheep are all black, both here and throughout the province of Tigré; having hair upon them instead of wool, like the rest of the sheep within the tropics, but remarkable for its lustre and softness, without any bristly quality. On the top of the mountain is a plain, which, at the time our author was there, they had sown with wheat. The air seemed excessively cold, though the barometer was not below 59° in the evening. On the west side the cedars, which on other parts are very beautiful, degenerate into small shrubs and bushes.
The road down this mountain was for some time not inferior in ruggedness to that by which they had ascended; but as they approached Dixan, it improved considerably. This is the first town on the Abyssinian side of Taranta. It is seated on the top of a hill of a form exactly conical, surrounded by a deep valley like a ditch; and there is no access to it but by a path which winds round the hill. The inhabitants were formerly exterminated by Michael Ras; and the succeeding race were found by Mr Bruce composed of the worst characters from the territories of the Baharnagash and the province of Tigré, on both of which it borders. Here he was in danger from the treachery of his guide Saloome, who wished to have decoyed him into the power of some assassins. Finding that this could not be done, he surrounded Mr Bruce and his retinue with a body of armed men; but they were dispersed by the authority of Hagi Abdelcarder, who had received orders to provide for the safety of the travellers. The only trade carried on here is that of buying and selling slaves, who are stolen from Abyssinia, chiefly by the Abyssinian priests, and sent into Arabia and India.
The next stage was from Dixan to Adowa, capital of the province of Tigré. Leaving Dixan on the 25th of November, they pitched their tent the first night under a large spreading tree called durro, which, Mr Bruce says, was one of the finest he saw in Abyssinia, being about 7½ feet in diameter. They had been joined by some Moors driving 20 loaded asses and two bulls, which in that country are likewise used as beasts of burden. Here, our author says, he recovered a tranquillity of mind which he had not enjoyed since his arrival at Masuah; they were now entirely without the dominions of the naybe, and entered into those of the emperor. Saloome attended them for some way, and seemed disposed to proceed; but one of the company, who belonged to the Abyssinian monarch, having made a mark in the ground with his knife, told him, that if he proceeded one step beyond that, he would bind him hand and foot, and leave him to be devoured by wild beasts.
Being now in a great measure delivered from their fears and embarrassments, the company proceeded on their journey with pleasure, through a much better country than they had hitherto passed. In some places it was covered with wild oats, wood, high bent grass, &c. but in not a few places rocky and uneven. Great flocks of a bird as large as a turkey, called in the Amharic language erhoom, were seen in some places. A large animal of the goat kind, called agazam, was found dead and newly killed by a lion. It was about the size of a large ass, and afforded a plentiful repast. Numbers of kolquall trees were also seen; and the sides of the river Habesh were adorned with a beautiful tree of the same name with the stream. There were in this place also many flowers of various kinds, particularly jessamine. The mountains of Adowa, which they came in sight of on the 5th of December, are totally unlike anything to be met with in Europe; their sides being all perpendicular rocks, like steeples or obelisks of many different forms.
Adowa, though the capital of an extensive province or kingdom, does not contain above 300 houses; it occupies nevertheless a large space, by reason of the inclosures of a tree called wanze, which surround each of the houses. It stands on the declivity of a hill, situated on the west side of a small plain surrounded by mountains. It is watered by three rivulets, which never become dry, even in the greatest heats. A manufacture is carried on here of a kind of coarse cotton cloth, which passes for money throughout all Abyssinia. The houses are built of rough stone cemented with mud; lime being only used in the construction of those at Gondar, and even there it is very bad.
Our traveller was very hospitably entertained at Adowa, by one Janni, with whom he resided during his stay there. Leaving it on the 17th of December, he visited the ruins of Axum, once the capital of the empire. He found 40 obelisks, but without any hieroglyphics. A large one is still standing, but the two largest have fallen. There is also a curious obelisk, of which he gives a figure, with other antiquities which our limits will not allow us to enlarge upon. The town has at present about 600 houses, and carries on manufactures of the coarse cotton cloth already mentioned. It is watered by a small stream which flows all the year, and it is received into a fine basin, 150 feet square, where it is collected for the use of the neighbouring gardens. Its latitude was found by Mr Bruce to be 14. 6. 36. N.
On the 20th of January 1770, our traveller set out from Axum. The road was at first smooth and pleasant, Abyssinia, but afterwards very difficult; being composed of stones raised one above another, the remains, as he conjectures, of a magnificent causeway. As they passed farther on, however, the air was everywhere perfumed by a vast number of flowers of different kinds, particularly Jessamine. One species of this, named agam, was found in such plenty, that almost all the adjacent hills were covered by it; the whole country had the most beautiful appearance; the weather was exquisitely fine, and the temperature of the air agreeable. In this fine country, however, Mr Bruce had the first opportunity of beholding the horribly barbarous practice of the Abyssinians, in cutting off pieces of flesh from the bodies of living animals, and devouring them raw; while at the same time they have the utmost horror and religious aversion at pork of every kind; insomuch that Mr Bruce durst not venture to taste the flesh of a wild boar, just after having assisted in the destruction of five or six.
During the remaining part of the journey from Adowa to Siré, the country continued equally beautiful, and the variety of flowers and trees greatly augmented; but as a report was propagated that Ras Michael had been defeated by Fasil, they now met with some insults. These, however, were but trifling; and on the 22d in the evening they arrived safely at Siré, situated in Lat. 14. 4. 35. N.
This town is still larger than Axum, but the houses are built only of clay covered with thatch; the roofs in the form of cones, which indeed is the shape of all those in Abyssinia. Siré stands on the brink of a very steep and narrow valley, through which the road is almost impassable. It is famous for a manufacture of cotton cloth, which, as already observed, passes as money throughout the whole empire. Beads, needles, antimony, and incense sometimes pass in the same way. The country in the neighbourhood is extremely fine; but the inhabitants, from the low situation, are subject to putrid fevers. On leaving it on the 24th, our travellers passed through a vast plain, where they could discern, as far as the eye could reach, only some few detached hills standing on the plain, covered with high grass, which the inhabitants were then burning. The country to the northward is flat and open. In the way to Gondar, however, lies that ridge of mountains called Samen; of which one named Lamalmon is the most remarkable, and by some supposed to be the highest in Abyssinia. Betwixt Siré and these mountains flows the river Tacazze, which, next to the Nile, is the largest in Abyssinia. Mr Bruce informs us that it carries near one-third of the water which falls on the whole empire; and when passing it he saw the marks of its stream, the preceding year, 18 feet perpendicular above the bottom; nor could it be ascertained whether this was the highest point to which it had reached. The Tacazze has its source in the district of Angot, rising from three sources, like the Nile, in a flat country, about 200 miles to the S. E. of Gondar. It is extremely pleasant, being shaded with fine lofty trees, the water extremely clear, and the banks adorned with the most fragrant flowers. At the ford where they crossed, this river was fully 200 yards broad, and about three feet deep, running very swiftly over a bottom of pebbles. At the very edge of the water the banks were covered with tamarisks, behind which grew tall and stately trees, that never lose their leaves. It abounds with fish, and is inhabited by crocodiles and hippopotami; the former of which frequently carry off people who attempt to cross the river upon blown up skins. The neighbouring woods are full of lions and hyenas. The Tacazze is marked by Mr Bruce in his map as a branch of the Astaboras, which falls into the Nile. The latitude of the ford was found to be 13. 42. 45. N.
This river was passed on the 26th of January; after Abyssinia, which our travellers entered into the country of Samen; the governor of which, Ayto Tesfos, had never acknowledged the authority of Ras Michael, nor any of the emperors set up by him since the death of Ioas. The country therefore was hostile; but the uncertainty of the event of the war, and the well-known severity of Michael's disposition, preserved our traveller and his company from any insult, excepting a feeble and unsuccessful attempt to extort money. Here Mr Bruce observes that the people were more flat-nosed than any he had hitherto seen in Abyssinia. The path among the mountains was for the most part exceedingly dangerous, having a precipice of vast height close by it which way soever you turn. The mountains appeared of very extraordinary shapes; some like cones; others high and pointed, like columns, pyramids, or obelisks. In one place a village was observed in so dangerous a situation, that scarce the distance of a yard intervened between the houses and a dreadful precipice. The lions and hyenas were very numerous among these mountains, and devoured one of the best mules our travellers had. The hyenas were so bold, that they stalked about as familiarly as dogs, and were not intimidated by the discharge of fire-arms. Their voracity was such, that they ate the bodies of those of their own species which our travellers had killed in their own defence.
On the 7th of February the travellers began to ascend Lamalmon by a winding path scarcely two feet broad, on the brink of a dreadful precipice, and frequently intersected by the beds of torrents, which produced vast irregular chasms. After ascending two hours with incredible toil up this narrow path, they came to a small plain named Kedius or St Michael, from a church of that name situated there. On ascending to the very top of the mountain, where they arrived on the 9th of February, our travellers were surprised to find, that though from below it had the appearance of being sharp-pointed, it was in reality a large plain full of springs, which are the sources of most of the rivers in this part of Abyssinia. These springs boil out of the earth, sending forth such quantities of water as are sufficient to turn a mill. A perpetual verdure prevails; and it is entirely owing to indolence in the husbandman if he has not three harvests annually. Lamalmon stands on the north-west part of the mountains of Samen ; but though higher than the mountains of Tigré, our author is of opinion that it is considerably inferior to those which are situated on the south-east. The plain on the top is altogether impregnable to an army, both by reason of its situation and the plenty of provisions it affords for the maintenance of its inhabitants; even the streams on the top are full of fish. Here the mercury in the barometer stood at 20 1/2 inches.
During the time our travellers remained at Lamalmon, a servant of Ras Michael arrived to conduct them safely to the capital, bringing a certain account of the victory over Fasil; so that now the difficulties and dangers of their journey were over. The country appeared better cultivated as they approached the capital; and they saw several plantations of sugar-canes, which are raised from the seed. In some places, however, particularly in Woggora, great damage is done by swarms of ants, rats, and mice, which destroy the fruits of the earth. Mr Bruce had already experienced the mischief arising from a small species of ant, whose bite was not only more painful than the sting of a scorpion, but which issued out of the ground in such numbers as to cut in pieces the carpets and every thing made of soft materials.
When Mr Bruce approached the capital, he was dressed like a Moor: and this dress he was advised to keep until he should receive some protection from government; his greatest, indeed his only, danger arising from the priests, who were alarmed at hearing of the approach of a Frank to the capital. This was the more necessary, as the emperor and Michael Ras were both out of town. For this reason also he took up his residence in the Moorish quarter of Gondar, a large city, containing not fewer than 3000 houses. The only inconvenience he underwent here, was the not being allowed to eat any flesh: for we have already taken notice of a law made by one of the emperors, that none of his subjects should eat flesh but such as had been killed by Christians; and a deviation from this would have been accounted equal to a renunciation of Christianity itself. Here he remained till the 15th of February; when Ayt Aylo waited upon him, and addressed him in the character of physician, which he had assumed. By this nobleman he was carried to the palace of Koscam, and introduced to the old queen. His advice was required for one of the royal family who was ill of the small-pox; but a saint had already undertaken his cure. The event, however, proved unfortunate; the patient died, and the saint lost his reputation. Our limits will not allow us to give any particular account of the steps by which Mr Bruce arrived at the high degree of reputation which he enjoyed in Abyssinia. In general, his success in the practice of medicine; his skill in horsemanship and the use of fire-arms, which by his own account must have been very extraordinary; his prudence in evading religious disputes; as well as his personal intrepidity and presence of mind, which never once failed him, even in the greatest emergencies; all conspired to render him agreeable to persons of every denomination. By the king he was promoted to the government of Ras-el-Feel, was his constant attendant on all occasions, and was with him in several military expeditions; but never met with any opportunity of distinguishing his personal valour, though he had the command of a body of horse at one of the battles fought at a place named Serbraxos. Thus honoured and employed, he had an ample opportunity of exploring the sources and cataracts of the Bahr-el-Azrek, which he considered the Nile, as well as the geography and natural products of the whole country; obtaining also leave at last to return home.
The truth and accuracy of Mr Bruce's narrative have excited greater controversy than has arisen in regard to any other work of the same description. No book ever passed through a severer ordeal; and some have not even scrupled to represent it as a mass of fiction from beginning to end. Such an opinion is now on all hands admitted to be unfounded. There certainly do appear to be some passages that are highly coloured; nor are there wanting a few adventurous sallies, that seem to have but little foundation in reality. But it is no longer doubted that the events of his journey, and his account of the country and people, are in the main correct.
Mr Salt, though he pointedly exposed the mistakes and exaggerations of Mr Bruce, yet bears ample and willing testimony to the general accuracy of his descriptions and narrative; and records, in more than one instance, the astonishment which the Abyssinians expressed at the knowledge which Mr Bruce displayed of their history and country. Mr Browne and Mr Antes, who had excellent opportunities of comparing Mr Bruce's statements with the accounts given by persons well acquainted with Abyssinia, bear testimony to the general accuracy of his details; and Dr Clarke, while at Cairo, obtained from an Abyssinian Dean, whom he met there, direct and specific evidence in favour of the correctness of some parts of his narrative, which had till then been regarded with suspicion.
The plates given in Mr Bruce's Travels, especially those of Abyssinia, natural history, were early represented as inaccurate; and that they may be so in some of the minutiae is not improbable, as Bruce laid no claim to a scientific knowledge of the subject; but when Dr Clarke showed these plates to the Abyssinian Dean, though he knew not the nature of the book in which they were contained, and the name of Bruce was not mentioned, the latter immediately gave the same appellations, and assigned the same uses as Bruce, to the Ergett-denimo, Eyett el kromé, Emsett, Kolquall, Gergir, Kantuffa, &c. He confirmed the account of the zimb dy, and asserted that he had heard of armies being destroyed by it. When Bruce's map was laid before him, though of course he could not read the names, he pointed out the locality of Gondar, exactly where Bruce had placed it.
A considerable period elapsed between the date of Mr Bruce's travels, and those of Mr Salt, the next European traveller in Abyssinia; and Mr Browne informs us, that, for nine years preceding 1796, there was even no communication between Egypt and that country, probably in consequence of the unsettled state of Sennaar and Nubia.
Mr Salt's first journey into Abyssinia took place in the Mr Salt's year 1805. Having accompanied Lord Valentia in his journeys, travels in the East, and his Lordship being desirous of ascertaining the state of Abyssinia, and the probability of opening a commercial intercourse between it and Britain, and her oriental dominions, Mr Salt undertook the conveyance of some presents from his Lordship to the Ras. An abstract of the most important information contained in both his journeys will afterwards be given; at present we shall confine ourselves to a brief outline of his route. From Massowa he proceeded to Arkecko; and thence southwards, with a little inclination to the west, he passed over Taranta to Dixan. On leaving this place, he proceeded to Antalo, through Abha, Agowma, and Chelicut. At Antalo he found the Ras, and delivered Lord Valentia's presents. From Antalo he made an excursion to Axum, by the route of Mucullah and Adowa, at which latter place he met with Fasilydas, the son of Yasous, formerly king of Abyssinia. At Axum he particularly examined the obelisks, inscriptions, and ruins; he also discovered a Greek inscription fifteen hundred years old, which proves Axum to have been the capital of a people called the Axumites, and gives credibility to the accounts before doubted, of embassies sent to them by the Romans. This inscription fixes the conquest of part of Arabia by the Abyssinians at an earlier period than was hitherto supposed. From Axum Mr Salt returned to Antalo by the road he came; and on his leaving the country, he again visited Axum and Dixan.
Mr Pearce, one of his attendants, was left behind at Antalo; and when Mr Salt arrived in Abyssinia the second time, about five years afterwards, he learned from Mr Pearce, that during his residence in that country he had made an attempt to reach Gondar. For this purpose he set out from Antalo, and directed his course through the province of Wojjerat, a plain inhabited by negroes called Doba, and a district of the Gulla tribe. Soon afterwards he reached the town of Mocurra, and the village of Dufat on one of the high Lasta mountains; his course during the whole of this part of his journey being nearly south. After passing the village of Dufat he arrived at the town of Senare, and visited the sources of the river Tacazze, having before this met with no stream of importance. He now changed his route, following the course of the river, nearly due north, and afterwards north-east to Socota, the reputed capital of Lasta, the district which, before his departure from Antalo, he was advised to pass through, as lying in the most accessible road to Gondar. From Socota Abyssinia, he proceeded northwards along the banks of the Tacazze, and, having crossed it, entered the province of Samen, the mountains of which he ascended till he reached Miskhka, and afterwards descended them to Inchetkaab, where Ras Gabriel resided. Here having learned that Ras Welud Selasse, with whom he had been left by Mr Salt at Antalo, was in danger of being attacked by the Galla, he returned to that town by a more direct route than he pursued in his journey to Inchetkaab. His next excursion was, in company with the Ras, against his enemies, through Lasta; and, the Galla having been defeated, he went into the plains of the Edjow. Next year, engaging again in the campaign, he accompanied the army into Hamazen. He also passed over the salt-plain by Amphila. These were the principal parts of Abyssinia which Mr Pearce had an opportunity of visiting, during the interval between Mr Salt's departure from and return to that country.
Mr Salt, in his second journey, proceeded from the coast of the Red Sea, by the route of Weah, to the foot of the Taranta mountains, which he crossed to Dixan, and thence proceeded to Chelicut. Here he ascertained that it was impracticable to accomplish the immediate object of his journey, the personal delivery of the presents with which he had been intrusted by his Majesty to the emperor of Abyssinia; as that monarch lived entirely neglected, and in fact a prisoner at Gondar, which was in the possession of Guxo, a chief of the Galla, and the decided opponent of Mr Salt's friend, Ras Welud Selasse. Disappointed in this object, he made an excursion to the Tacazze, through the province of Avergale, a distance of sixty miles west from Chelicut; and on his return to the latter town, he made another excursion to Antalo. On finally quitting Chelicut, he passed through the high district of Giralta, whence he descended the steep pass of Atbara, to the banks of the Warre. His route was next to Adowa, over several ridges of hills. From Adowa he made an excursion to Axum, for the purpose of re-examining its ruins and inscriptions. Having accomplished this object, he returned to Adowa, and thence to the sea-coast.
From this brief outline of Mr Salt's two journeys, and of the excursions of Mr Pearce, it will appear that neither of them penetrated so far into Abyssinia as Mr Bruce had done; nevertheless, their narratives are of very considerable value, not only on account of the new information which they supply, but also as they enable us to place more steady confidence in such parts of Mr Bruce's statements regarding Abyssinia as they had the opportunity of verifying; and to ascribe to his Travels their just degree of value and accuracy.
The voyage of Hemprich, Ehrenberg, and their companions, of which we have as yet only a rapid sketch from the pen of M. Humboldt, does not promise to throw much light on the civil and interior state of Abyssinia. It appears that they never passed the barrier chain of mountains, but merely explored that north-eastern face which looks to the Red Sea. Their researches and collections relative to the natural history of this region, as well as of Nubia, and the others to which their journey extended, appear to have been very extensive; but the details have not yet been communicated to the public.
It will now be our object to draw, from the narratives of Mr Bruce and Mr Salt, a connected view of the statistics, and of the civil and social condition of this remarkable country.
When Mr Salt was last in Abyssinia, it was divided into three distinct and independent states. Tigré, which was the most powerful, was under the dominion of Ras Welud Selasse, who possessed the monopoly of all the muskets imported, and of all the salt. Tigré comprehends about Abyssinian four degrees of latitude, and the same of longitude; it possesses the sea-coast, is naturally strong, and is inhabited by a warlike people. Its divisions are, 1. Tigré proper; the general character of which is, a range of hills, intersected by deep gullies and cultivated plains. 2. Agamé, which lies to the east of Tigré proper. This division, being level land, at a considerable height above the sea, and consequently enjoying a favourable climate, is rich and fertile. On its eastern frontier, and near the Taltal, it is strong; the salt-plain is in its vicinity. 3. The division of Enderta, to the south of Agamé, is mostly mountainous; its capital is Antalo, in which the Ras resides, on account of its being situated so as to protect the southern provinces from the Galla. 4. To the south of Enderta is the division of Wojjerat; a wild district, full of forests, in which the lion, elephant, and rhinoceros are found. 5. Adjoining to Wojjerat, is the small and low division of Wofila, which borders on the lake Ashangel. Here the Galla are intermixed with the native Abyssinians, and profess the Christian religion. 6. The division of Lasta is rugged, and almost entirely composed of inaccessible mountains. To the north of this there are two mountainous districts; and between them and the Tacazze are two low districts, inhabited by Christian Agows. 7. Farther to the north lies the division of Avergale. It is very narrow, and stretches, for about fifty miles north and south, along the Tacazze. It is inhabited by the Agows. 8. The division of Samen, which is to the east of the Tacazze, is the highest land in Abyssinia. Its mountains run north and south, about eighty miles. 9. Between the northern border of Samen and Tigré proper lies the valuable district of Zemben. 10. Above Zemben, to the west of Axum, is the division of Shiré, the most picturesque part of Abyssinia, abounding in rich valleys, flowery meadows, and shady groves. 11. The last division of Tigré is commonly called the kingdom of the Baharnegash.
The second independent state is that which still retains the name of Amhara. This is almost entirely in the possession of the Galla, whose chief is Guxo, the enemy of Ras Welud Selasse. His power on the west side of the Tacazze is absolute; and it is much strengthened and increased by his connection with the southern Galla. His cavalry are estimated at twenty thousand, chiefly from the district of Begemder. Gondar belongs to him.
The third grand division, which lies in the south of Abyssinia, is now entirely separated from the two others by the Galla: it consists of the united provinces of Shoa and Efát, which are supposed to retain a larger portion of Ethiopian literature and manners than any other part of Abyssinia. Efát lies between the ninth and eleventh degrees of north latitude. It is principally high land, running north and south, and gradually declining on each side into a plain country. Streams flow from both sides of the mountains, and fall into the Nile and Hawush. Two branches of the latter nearly encircle this province. The present ruler is the grandson of Yasou, mentioned by Bruce (but, as Dofter Esther informed Mr Salt, incorrectly) as having visited Gondar while he was there. He resides at Ankober, the capital of Efát. This district is one of the finest in Abyssinia, and in power equal to that of Ras Welud Selasse. Its force is chiefly cavalry, who are very skilful and courageous. The province of Shoa lies on a lower level than that of Efát; there is extremely rich pastureage in its valleys; it contains several large towns, and many monasteries. The district of Walaka and Gondar are dependent on the united provinces of Shoa and Efát.
Of the rivers, the Tacazze rises from three small springs in the plains of Margilla; it is joined by the river Arequa, Abyssinia, which runs through the province of Avergale, in a north-west direction, in the district of Zemben; and it forms one of the larger branches of the Nile. The Bahr-el-Azrek, or Blue River, or Azergue, the chief Abyssinian branch of the Nile, rises from two fountains in Sacala, near Geesh, flows through the lake of Dembea, sweeps, after quitting the lake, in a semicircular direction round the provinces of Damot and Gojam, and unites with the Bahr-el-Abiad, or White River, at Wed Hogela, in latitude 16. N. This river, the real Nile, is supposed to rise in the Jibbel-el-Kumri, or mountains of the Moon. The other rivers are, the Maleg, which joins the Abyssinian Nile, after a parallel course, on the west; the Mareb, which forms the boundary between Tigré and the kingdom of the Baharangash; the Hanazou and Hawush, which flow in an opposite direction, towards the entrance of the Red Sea; and the Jemma. The principal lakes are, Dembea, or Tzana, about sixty miles long, and thirty broad, where most extensive, and in the wet seasons; the lake of Lawasa, in the southern extremity of Abyssinia, a chief source of the Hawush; the lake of Haik, near the rocks of Geshen and Ambazab; and the Ashangel.
The great difference of climate, owing to the vast extent and variety of elevation in different parts of this empire, is very perceptible in its soil and productions. The mountains in many places are not only barren, but altogether inaccessible, except by those who make it their constant practice to climb amongst them; and even by them they cannot be ascended without great difficulty and danger. The shapes of these mountains, as we have already had occasion to observe, are very strange and fantastical; exceedingly different from those of Europe: some resembling towers and steeples, while others are like a board or slate set up on end; the base being so narrow, and the whole mountain so high and thin, that it seems wonderful how it can stand. In the valleys, however, and flat parts of the country, the soil is excessively fruitful, though in the warmest places grain cannot be brought to perfection. Wine is also made only in one or two places; but the greatest profusion of fruits of all kinds is to be met with everywhere, as well as many vegetables not to be found in other countries. There is a vast variety of flowers, which adorn the banks of the rivers in such a manner as to make them resemble fine gardens. Among these a species of rose is met with, which grows upon trees, and is much superior in fragrance to those which grow on bushes. Senna, cardamom, ginger, and cotton, are likewise produced here in great quantities.
Among the rare plants to be met with in Abyssinia, Mr Bruce particularly describes the following:—1. The papyrus, the ancient material for paper; which our author supposes to have been a native of Ethiopia, and not of Egypt, as has been supposed. 2. Balessan, balm, or balsam plant; a tree growing to the height of 14 or 15 feet, and used for fuel along with other trees in the country. It grows on the coast of the Red Sea, among the myrrh trees behind Azab, all the way to Babelmandel. This is the tree producing the balm of Gilead mentioned in Scripture. 3. The sassa, myrrh, and opocalpasum trees. These grow likewise along the coast of the Red Sea. The sassa or opocalpasum is used in manufactures; and, according to our author, resembles gum adragant, probably tragacanth. The tree which produces it grows to a great size, and has a beautiful flower, scarce admitting of description without a drawing. 4. Ensete, an herbaceous plant, growing in Narea, in swampy places; but it is supposed to grow equally well in any other part of the empire, where there is heat and moisture sufficient. It forms a great part of the vegetable food of the Abyssinians. It produces a kind of figs, but these are not eatable. When Abyssinia, used for food, it is to be cut immediately above the small detached roots, or perhaps a foot or two higher, according to the age of the plant. The green is to be stripped from the upper part till it becomes white; and when soft, it affords an excellent food when eaten with milk or butter. 5. Rack is a large tree, growing not only in Abyssinia, but in many places of Arabia Felix. Its wood is so hard and bitter, that no worm will touch it; for which reason it is used by the Arabs for constructing their boats. It grows, like the mangrove, among the salt water of the sea, or about salt springs. 6. Cusso, or Banltsia anthelmintica, is a very beautiful and useful tree, being a strong anthelmintic, and used as such by the Abyssins. 7. Teff is a kind of grain sown generally throughout Abyssinia, and constituting the bread commonly made use of by the inhabitants. They have indeed plenty of wheat, and are as skillful in forming it into bread as the Europeans; but this is only made use of by people of the first rank: however, the teff is sometimes of such an excellent quality, that the bread made from it is held in equal estimation with the finest wheat. From the bread made of this grain a sourish liquor called bouza is prepared, which is used for common drink like our small beer. A liquor of the same kind, but of inferior quality, is made from barley cakes. Some have been of opinion that the use of teff occasions worms; but this is controverted by Mr Bruce. 8. Nook, a plant not to be distinguished from our marigold, either in shape, size, or foliage, is also sown very generally over the country, and furnishes all Abyssinia with oil for the kitchen and other uses.
Our knowledge in this department is considerably increased by Dr Murray's edition of Bruce, and Mr Salt's two journeys. The lehem, or Toberne montana, a tree common near the lake of Dembea, is remarkable for its beauty and fragrance; it grows to a considerable size, the extremities of its branches trailing along the ground, laden with flowers from top to bottom in great profusion, each cluster containing between eighty-five and ninety, open or shut; the fruit is eaten, but has rather a harsh taste. The angual, found near the Tacazze, produces a gum resembling frankincense. The leaves of the gesh, which is very common, are put by the Abyssins into their maize; they are likewise reduced to powder, and mixed with the other materials of which they make sowa. The mergomboy, a species of Solanum, is used as a cathartic; and from the niche, or niege, they extract their vegetable oil: it is a species of Sesamum. These are the principal plants, descriptions and plates of which are given from Mr Bruce's manuscripts and drawings, by Dr Murray. Mr Salt's researches have added eight new genera, and one hundred and twenty-four new species, to botany. Near Shela, a species of narrow-leaved Ficus grows, called by the natives chekunil; the inner rind of the bark of which, having been bruised on a stone, twisted round a stick, and dried, is used as matches for their fire-arms. Near Adowa, Mr Salt found a new and beautiful species of Amaryllis, bearing ten or twelve spikes of bloom on each stem, from one receptacle, as large as those of the belladonna. The corolla is white; each petal is marked down the middle with a single streak of bright purple; it is sweet-scented, like the lily of the valley; the bulbs are frequently two feet under ground. Mr Salt brought this plant to England.
The domesticated animals are oxen. The Galla oxen, or sanga, were not seen by Mr Bruce; and his account of them is not strictly correct, their large horns not being the effect of disease. The largest Mr Salt ever saw was four feet in length, and the circumference at the base twenty-one inches. The horns of one of them are in the Abyssinia. museum of the College of Surgeons in London. The animal itself is of the usual size, and of various colours; it is by no means common in Abyssinia, being brought only by the cafilas, or salt caravans, as a valuable present, from the south. The sheep are small and black; the horses strong and beautiful. Besides these, there are mules, asses, a few camels, and two species of dogs; one of which owns no master, but lives in packs in the villages, like the paria dog in India; the other is kept for game, especially for Guinea fowls, which it catches very expertly.
The wild animals are, the elephant, which is hunted by the Shangalla for their teeth: the cave leopard, only found in the interior districts; very shy; its skin is an article of barter: the two-horned rhinoceros, only found in the forests of Wojjerat, and the low land near the Funge; its horns have no connection with the bone of the head, consequently the opinion of Sparman, that they can raise and depress them at pleasure, may be correct. This rhinoceros has no folds in the skin, as the one-horned has; its skin is used for shields; its horns for handles to swords and daggers, and, according to the Abyssinian Dean whom Dr Clarke interrogated at Cairo, as a lining to drinking vessels, being regarded as an antidote to poison. The foremost horn is two feet long, and very large in other respects. The buffalo is very common in the forests of Ras-el-fil; shields are made from its skin with great art. The zebra, in the south chiefly; its mane decorates the collars of the war-horses belonging to chiefs of great rank on days of state. The wild ass is found in some parts; lions occasionally, especially in the sandy districts near the Tacazze. Whoever kills one wears the paw on his shield: the skin, richly ornamented, forms a dress like that worn by the Caffre chiefs. There are several species of leopard, one black, extremely rare, the skin of which is worn only by governors of provinces. The lion-cat, tiger-cat, or grey lynx, and wild-cat, are not uncommon. From the libet, civet is procured, and is an article of commerce. The hyena : Mr Salt remarks that it has a singular cry—three distinct deep-toned cries; then silence for a few minutes, succeeded by the same kind of cry. The hyena and dog seldom fight; they even feed on the same carcass. A small kind of wolf; common fox; sea fox; and jackal. There is a great variety of antelopes, one of which is probably allied to the chamois, being confined to the cold and mountainous district of Samien. Several species of monkey; the wild boar; porcupine; cavy, nearly allied to that of the Cape; a small grey hare, deemed by the natives unclean; squirrel; rats, very numerous in the fields; an undescribed species of lemur, the size of a cat, with a long tail, faintly striped with black and white, with white bushy hair at the end: the hair on the body is long, and of a clear white, except on the back, where there is a large oval spot covered with short deep-black hair. Of this every man in Tigré endeavours, if possible, to have a piece on his shield. The hippopotami are chiefly found in the deep pits, like lochs, between the fords of the Tacazze; they roll and snort like a porpus; they cannot remain longer than five or six minutes under water; their colour is a dusky brown, like the elephant; their usual length sixteen feet. Whips are made of their skin, and used to brush away the flies, which are very troublesome in hot weather: the butt-ends of the whips are ornamented with hair from the tail of the camelopard.
The number of birds in this country is immense. Great numbers of eagles, vultures, hawks, and others of that kind, are met with, and come punctually every year after the tropical rains have ceased. They feed at first upon the shell-fish, which are met with in great quantities on the edges of the deserts, where they had lived in the salt Abyssinian springs, but being forced from their natural habitations when these springs were swollen by the rains, are afterwards left to perish on dry land. When these fail, their next resource is from the carcasses of the large animals, such as the elephant and rhinoceros, which are killed in the flat country by the hunters. Their next supply is afforded by the multitude of rats and field-mice which infest the country after harvest. The vast slaughter of cattle made by the Abyssinian armies, the multitude of persons killed, whose bodies are allowed to rot on the field of battle, &c. furnish them also with another resource. These supplies, however, all fail at the beginning of the rainy season, when the hunters and armies return home, and the vast quantity of water which continually overflows the ground renders it impossible for them to find any other food.
The rarest birds brought home by Mr Salt from Abyssinia are, a new species of Bucco, since called B. Saltii, which clings like the woodpecker to the branches of trees: a variety of the Upupa erythrorhynchos, with a black tail; it feeds on the figs of the Ficus sycomorus : a non-descript species of Merops; a non-descript species of Tanaga, which perches on the backs of the cattle, and feeds on the grubs which infest them in hot weather; the Columba Abyssinica, wild among the daro trees, eaten by the Abyssinians; and the Tringa Senegallia ; the Erodia amphitorsi, allied in some degree to the Ardea Pondiceriana, probably a new genus; and the Cursorius Europaeus, an extremely rare bird, shot on the sandy plains near the Tacazze.
Bees are domesticated in the province of Wojjerat, which is famous for white honey, sold at Antalo. Mr Salt gives a dreadful account of the ravages of the Abyssinian locust.
Little is known respecting the mineralogy of Abyssinia. Near Weah there are low hills of granitic rocks, resting on a bed of micaceous earth. In the district of Tigré the soil is sandy; the rocks, composed of slate, schistus, and granite, lie in perpendicular strata. In the districts of Geraldta and Enderta the strata are rather horizontal. But the salt-plain is the most interesting, not only in a mineralogical, but also in an economical view, as from it the Abyssinians obtain the pieces of salt which they use as money. This plain lies near the country of the Assa Durwa, about fifty miles west of Amphila, on the road to Massowa; it is about four days' journey in extent from north-east to south-west, and is crossed in sandals made of the leaves of a species of palm. The plain is perfectly flat; for the first half-mile the salt is soft; it then becomes hard and crystallized, like ice on which snow has fallen after it has been partially thawed: branches of pure salt occasionally rise above the surface. It is cut with an adze into pieces the shape of a whetstone. For about two feet immediately under the surface it is hard and pure; afterwards it is coarse and softer, till exposed to the air. The employment of cutting the salt is very dangerous, on account of the Galla, who frequently attack the workmen: none, therefore, are employed except the lowest order of the natives, who lie down on their backs, or flee to the mountains, on the approach of the Galla. Salt caravans, called cafilas, are regularly sent for salt from Antalo; and the situation of Balgudda, or protector of these caravans, is of great importance as well as emolument; for on their safe arrival mainly depends the internal and external commerce of the Abyssinians: when they arrive, therefore, they are received with great acclamation and joy. The Galla frequently attack them. The pay of the Balgudda is derived from the duty imposed on the importation of salt—a camel, the usual load of which is two hundred pieces, Abyssinia pays eleven; a mule, carrying eighty, pays nine; an ass pays six.
With respect to the climate, Mr Salt found that the thermometer, in March, April, and May, averaged 70° at Chelicut, 65° at Antalo, 95° on the banks of the Tacazze, and on the mountains of Samen he supposed it to be below the freezing point. He contradicts, from his own observation, Mr Bruce's statement, that snow is not known in Abyssinia. The Samen mountains were covered with snow at the time Mr Salt saw them; and Mr Pearce, in his passage over them, experienced a heavy fall.
Two varieties of wheat are cultivated, of which they make large loaves, either baked or prepared by steam. These, however, are used only at the tables of the great. The teff, which is their usual food, varies in colour from white to black. The Abyssinian Dean informed Dr Clarke that beer, or sowa, was made from selleh, and not from teff; and that it is not made from the latter, is confirmed by the testimony of Michael, Mr Bruce's servant. (Murray's Life of Bruce, 4to. p. 252.) The neug, which is like the raggy of India, is next in esteem to the teff, with which, or with barley, it is mixed to make bread. It is harsh and dry. Two kinds of barley are sown; the black in great quantity, but it is only given to horses and mules. Maize is much cultivated between Galla and Dixan, but not made into bread. The vetch is cultivated for the purpose of mixing it with teff, or forming it with ghee and curds into balls. It is eaten in the morning. The worst grain of every kind is generally used for seed. As almost every man cultivates enough for his family, it is seldom sold. On the low lands there are two crops. The ploughs are rudely made, from the root or branch of a tree; sometimes the shares are of iron. They are drawn by oxen. The land is twice ploughed, afterwards the clods are broken by women; and when the corn is half ripe, it is weeded by men, women, and children, singing as they work: only females reap, and when strangers pass they utter a sharp shrill cry, the Liralect of Syria, where it is used on the same occasion. It is produced by trilling the tongue against the roof of the mouth, without any distinct words, but a constant repetition of the syllable al, uttered with the utmost rapidity. In some parts the grain, when carried, is secured from the weather by means of tanned kid-skins. The plain of Larai near Dixan, resembles the vale of Evesham. It is highly cultivated, and irrigation is practised in it. Cotton is grown near the Tacazze, and sold at Adowa.
Mr Salt's description of a brind feast, though not so highly coloured as that of Mr Bruce, is still sufficient to prove the barbarism of the Abyssinians. The sides of the table are covered with piles of thin cakes made of teff, reaching to the height of a foot, and two feet and a half in diameter; in the middle a row of curry dishes is placed. Near the Ras there are a number of fine wheaten rolls, for his own use, and that of his favourites. The signal to begin the feast is given by his breaking and distributing them: immediately female slaves, having washed their hands, dip the teff into the curry, and serve it to all the guests, except the Ras, who receives his portion from a male slave, and afterwards distributes it among the chiefs, who acknowledge the favour by standing up and bowing. Balls composed of teff, greens, and curds, are next handed about. In the mean time the process of killing the cattle proceeds in the adjoining yard. That process is simple:—the beast is thrown on the ground, and its head separated from the body with a Jamba knife, during which an invocation is always pronounced. The skin is immediately stripped off one side, and the entrails being taken out, are devoured by the attendants. While the fibres are yet quivering, the flesh is cut into large pieces. These are of no regular size; but generally a piece of bone is attached to the flesh, by which it is brought into the dining-room. The chiefs with their crooked knives cut off large steaks, which they divide into long stripes, half an inch in diameter. If they are not pleased with the piece they have got, they hand it to a dependant, who, in his turn, if not pleased, hands it to another, till it comes to one whose taste or rank does not induce or authorize him to reject it. As soon as the first party is satisfied, they rise from the table and give way to others. The last cakes are scrambled for with a great noise. It appears from Mr Salt, that though the chiefs sometimes feed themselves at these feasts, yet more frequently, as Mr Bruce relates, they feed one another.
Mr Pearce witnessed a live meal, when travelling with the Lasta soldiers. Having fasted long, one of them proposed to cut out the shulada: a cow was thrown down, and two pieces of flesh, weighing about a pound, cut from the buttock, which they called the shulada. Whenever Mr Salt mentioned the term, he was always understood. After the pieces were cut out, the wounds were sewed up, and plastered over with cow-dung. The animal was driven on, but killed at the end of the journey. The Abyssinians are very expert in dissecting a cow, as there are always a number of applicants, each of whom claims a right to a particular portion.
The Abyssinians are very fond of pictures. Their churches are full of them; and such chiefs as can afford it ornament their principal rooms with them. They paint their pictures on the surface of the walls, tracing the outline with charcoal; they afterwards go over it with coarse Indian ink; and lastly, introduce the colours, which are excessively gaudy. They exaggerate the size of the eye, and paint all classes with full faces, except the Jews, whom they uniformly paint with side faces.
On their journeys they sing extemporary verses, one person alone composing and singing them at first, after which they are repeated in chorus by the rest.
Their dress consists of a large folding mantle, and close drawers. To these the priests add a vest of white linen next the skin. On their head they wear a small shawl of white cotton, with the crown exposed. Their houses are of a conic form, covered with thatch. In Dixan the houses are flat-roofed, without windows: instead of chimneys, there are pots of earthen ware on the roofs. There are also caves near this place used as dwellings, which are expeditiously made, in a very simple manner—the earth being dug out, and the mortar tempered occasionally with the blade-bone of an ox, and the stones that are used shaped with an adze.
Their principal liquor is called maize, made of honey fermented with barley, and strengthened with the root of the Rhamnus inebrians, called sadoo. The liquor is drunk out of Venetian decanters, called brullies. But the common drink among the lower class is made of the bread left at their feasts, and parched barley; it is called sowa, and is drunk out of horns.
Marriage is generally a civil contract. The female, who is seldom consulted on the occasion, is carried to the house of her husband on his shoulders, or those of his friends. The bride and bridegroom are sometimes seated on a throne of turf, shaded with boughs, round which the relations, &c. dance. The dowry consists of gold, cattle, muskets, and cloth, and is always kept apart, and returned in case of separation. Marriage by civil contract can be dissolved at pleasure; by religious contract it is more sacred, especially when the parties take the sacrament after marriage. Ladies of rank retain their estates and Abyssinia maiden names, and assume great superiority over their husbands. At Dixan they allow the nails on their left hand to grow to a great length, and cover them with cases of leather to preserve them. In some parts it is not uncommon for one man to have several wives; only one, however, is deemed his lawful wife: each has her separate residence.
When a person is seized with a species of fever called Tigré-ter, his relations show him all the gold and silver ornaments, fine clothes, &c. which they can collect, making, at the same time, a dreadful noise with drums and other musical instruments, to drive the devil out; for they believe all diseases come from the devil. When death is at hand, the drums, &c. cease; and when it actually takes place, howling and tearing the hair and skin from the temples ensue. No time is lost in washing the body and fumigating it with incense, after which it is sewed up in the clothes of the deceased, and buried in great haste. When the burial is over, the tosar or feast of the dead commences; an image of the deceased, in rich garments, on his favourite mule, is carried through the town, accompanied by other mules, &c. in gay apparel, and by female hired mourners, crying out, as in Ireland, "Why did you leave us? had you not houses and land?" When the procession returns, cattle are killed, and an immense number of people feasted: a repetition of this feast, at certain intervals, is given by the different relations of the deceased, who vie with one another in profusion and splendour.
When a person is murdered, the criminal is generally given up to the relations of the deceased, who take him to the market-place, and dispatch him with their knives and spears, every relation and friend making a point of striking a blow. When a person accused of any crime is apprehended, he is tied by his garments to another; and it is always considered a sure proof of guilt, if he runs away and leaves his garments behind. The Ras decides disputes; before him each party makes his statement, and stakes a quantity of salt, a mule, slaves, gold, &c. on the veracity of his statement; the party convicted is punished by the forfeiture to the Ras of what he staked. Lands descend from father to son; when there is no son, they go to the brother. All the children and relations have a claim on the property of the deceased; if he has neither, he generally directs it to be sold, and one half to be given to the priests, and the other to the poor.
Their Lent continues fifty-two days, during which they never taste food till after sunset. The chief amusement on the holydays after Lent, among the lower classes, very much resembles the English game of bandy.
On the feast of Epiphany, which, according to the Abyssinians, is the 11th of January, they assemble, in commemoration of our Saviour's baptism, near brooks, into which they jump, after having received the blessing of the priest, leaping, dancing, ducking one another, and shouting. In the performance of baptism three priests are engaged; one with the incense, another with a golden cross, and the third with the consecrated oil from the patriarch of Alexandria. The person to be baptized is first washed over with water, and afterwards crossed on the forehead with some of that element, over which the incense has been waved, and into which the consecrated oil has been dropped. When the person is a Mahomectan, every joint and limb is crossed with the consecrated oil; he is then wrapped in a white linen cloth, and partakes of the sacrament. No unbaptized person is allowed to enter a church. The sacrament is given in both kinds, with new leavened bread, and wine made of a red grape common in some parts of the country. Great numbers of pilgrims, in a yellow dress, with cords round their waists, resort to the rich and beautiful plains of Walasse, where they spend their time, by no means innocently, amidst its retired groves.
The Christians near Dixan are distinguished by a cross on their breast, arm, &c. and a blue silk string round their neck. They say prayers over whatever they eat, drink, receive, or give, and afterwards blow on it, turning their heads to the east. They turn the heads of animals to the west when they kill them. A striking resemblance may be traced between some of the superstitions of the Abyssinians and those which still linger in our own country. The falcon, called goodie-goodie, is never killed by them; and when an Abyssinian sets out on a journey and meets one, he watches it carefully; if it sit still, with its breast towards him till he is past, he regards it as a good omen; if its back is towards him, it is unpropitious; and if it fly away, no motive will induce him to proceed on his journey. It is a prevalent belief, that every worker in iron transforms himself, at night, into an hyena, and preys on human flesh; but if, while thus transformed, he is wounded, the wound remains in the corresponding part of his own body.
The languages spoken in Abyssinia and the neighbouring districts are, a corruption of the Geez, called Tigré, Amharic, Falasha, Gafat, Agow, Tchertech Agow, Shangalla, and Galla. According to Dr Murray, the written Geez is the oldest dialect of the Arabic in existence. The Amharic, the modern language of Abyssinia, is likewise an Arabic dialect, more simple than the Geez in the form of its verbs, but in all other respects the same. The Falasha is spoken by the tribes professing the Jewish religion, who formerly ruled in Dembea, Samen, and near the Angrab and Kahlug; it is one of the ancient Ethiopian tongues, and has no affinity to the Arabic or Hebrew. The language of the Gafat nation is a corrupted dialect of the Amharic.
Respecting the tribes which border upon, or are intermixed with, the Abyssinians, Mr Salt has supplied us with some additional information.
The Jews are very numerous in Gondar and the provinces of Samen and Kuara; they are chiefly employed in building and thatching houses.
The Hazorta tribe inhabit the mountains near Tubbo, and command the only practicable passage into Abyssinia. They are a brave and rude people. Their population is about 5000, over whom there are five chiefs. They possess many cattle, which they seldom kill, but barter with the Abyssinians for grain, being almost entirely ignorant of the art of raising corn. They assist the Abyssinians in getting in their harvests. During the rainy season they go to the sea-side for three, four, or five months, and on their return bring salt, which they exchange for grain with the Abyssinians. When they beat their tom-toms, they clap their hands, and hiss in such a manner, that the sound resembles the quick alternate pronunciation of the letters p t s. Only one person dances at a time, generally a chief; his feet move little, but his body, and particularly his shoulders, is extremely agitated with a kind of writhing gesture.
The name Shangalla (or, according to Bruce, Shankala) is applied by the Abyssinians to the whole race of negroes. One tribe of them were represented to Mr Salt as living three days' journey beyond the Nile, and as having a very imperfect notion of any supreme being. The only species of adoration which they exhibit occurs during a great holyday, when all the people assemble and kill a cow, by stabbing it in a thousand places. They have no priests or rulers, but pay respect to old age; the Abyssinia-old men being allowed to drink first, and take two wives. In their marriages they mutually take each other's sisters. If one of the parties has no sister, he gives one of his female slaves. The women assist the men in ploughing, &c. and have an equal share of the produce of the land. These people are named from some circumstances relating to their birth, as "Born in the night;" or "Born while making boozza;" or from some marks on their bodies. They are buried in their clothes, without ceremony, the relatives feasting on the cattle of the deceased, his wife getting the household furniture, and the sons his arms, land, and agricultural implements. When hunting, they eat whatever they can procure, even an elephant or a rat. They tie the legs of their prisoners, and employ them in making cloth, or manufacturing iron. Those who cannot work, they kill. The Abyssinians consider it as sport to hunt the Shangalla.
There are at least twenty tribes of the Galla, some of whom, entering Abyssinia from the south, have become naturalized, and adopted the manners of the Abyssinians. The tribes out of Abyssinia have little connection with one another, though they speak the same language; each has its own chief, and they are often engaged in mutual hostilities. There are two divisions larger than the rest, one of which, near the Abiad, or White River, retains its natural ferocity: they drink warm blood, adorn themselves with the entrails of animals, and ride on oxen. The Assabee Galla wear garments like the Abyssinians; grease and powder their hair; and cover their arms with bracelets, and with trophies, according to the number of the enemies slain.
The inhabitants of Hamazen differ from the rest of the Abyssinians, being darker and stronger limbed, and more like the Fungé, who live near Sennaar; they fight desperately with two-edged swords. In the province of Wojjerat, also, the men are larger and stouter than the other Abyssinians. They are said to be the descendants of Portuguese soldiers. Their fidelity to their rulers is proverbial. The plain, eight hours' distance from Wojjerat, is inhabited by the Doba, one of the isolated tribes of negroes found in all parts of Africa. They are mentioned by Alvarez, as, in his time, not marrying till they could make oath that they had put to death twelve Christians.
The Agows, who were worshippers of the Nile till the seventeenth century, always fix their residence near the great branches of that river, for whose waters they still retain a veneration so great, that they will supply a stranger with milk, but not with water. Their buildings are without mortar. The houses of the higher ranks are in the form of Egyptian temples. At the earliest dawn of day they assemble before the doors of their chiefs, and chant their prayers.
It has already been mentioned, that one of the objects of Mr Salt's journeys was to ascertain whether Abyssinia was likely to afford any new openings to British commerce. How far this is likely, will best appear from a sketch of the manufactures and commerce of that country. The former are few and contemptible: though cotton grows in many parts, and is of a superior quality, yet they import a considerable quantity from India, which they manufacture into a coarse cloth. As they have no dark blue colour, they unravel the threads of the blue cloth of Surat, and weave them again into their own webs: they procure a black dye from an earth, and red, yellow, and light blue from vegetables. Fine cloth is manufactured at Gondar, and coarse at Adowa; the latter, besides its common use, circulates as money: a coarse piece six-teen cubits long, one and three-fourths wide, is equal to thirty pieces of salt, or 'one dollar; a piece not so coarse, fifty cubits long, sufficient to make a dress for a chief, is equal to twelve dollars. Coarse carpets, from sheep's wool, and the hair of goats dyed red and light blue, are manufactured at Gondar and in Samen. In some parts the sheep-skins are tanned, and worn by the women round their waists, or over their shoulders, whenever they stir out. At Axum, skins are made into parchment, and finished well. Manufactures of iron and brass are common; the former is procured from Sennaar, Walkyat, and Berbera: knives are made at Adowa, and spears at Antalo: highly finished chains of brass are made by the Galla. There are many fairs and weekly markets. At a weekly market near Abha, were exposed for sale, iron, wrought and unwrought, for ploughshares, &c. cattle, horses, skins, cotton, ghee, butter in round balls and very white, &c. It is not infamous, as Mr Bruce asserts, for men to attend the markets.
Through Adowa, there are imported for Gondar and the interior of Abyssinia, lead, block-tin, gold-foil, Persian carpets, raw silks from China, velvets, French broad cloths, coloured skins from Egypt, and glass beads and decanters from Venice. Ivory, gold, and slaves, are the principal exports through Adowa to the coast. A few slaves from Abyssinia reach Cairo, by way of Cossir and Suez; they are esteemed more beautiful than those of Soudan.
In estimating the probability that Abyssinia may afford a new opening for British commerce, there are two circumstances which require particular consideration. There can be no doubt, that, in so far as a more accurate knowledge of the navigation of the Red Sea, and convenient places for landing the goods, are requisite for this object, the journeys of Lord Valentia and Mr Salt have been of great utility; but there can be no communication with Gondar and the interior of Abyssinia, unless we could either form an alliance with the chief who commands there,—in which case we should be exposed to the enmity of the Ras of Tigre, and thus be prevented even from advancing to a short distance from the coast,—or assist the Ras to liberate his sovereign, and replace him on his throne. Direct assistance could not be given, and the result seems very doubtful were we only to furnish the Ras with a supply of arms. In the second place, supposing the communication with Gondar to be open and easy, Abyssinia at present can furnish nothing in exchange for our goods. We could indeed supply them, either from Britain or from our Indian possessions, with most of the articles which they procure from Arabia; especially with India goods and raw cotton from India, for which, as cotton is used for clothing in the greater part of Africa, there must be a great demand: besides, our goods could be sold cheaper, being exempt from the heavy duty imposed on what they now import. But for exchange with us, Abyssinia produces only ivory and gold: the latter in small quantities; the former we can procure cheaper elsewhere.
On the whole, therefore, when we consider that the communication with the interior will probably always be liable to interruption; and that, even if the case were otherwise, no returns could be looked for, except from the increased industry and skill of the Abyssinians, or from regions with which the intercourse is slow and precarious; there seems but little reason to expect that this country will afford any new openings to British commerce.