Not far from the south-eastern termination of the Alps there is a lake called Lago di Locarno, or Lago Maggiore, extending above fifty miles in length by five or six in breadth. It contains several islands, amongst which are the Isola Bella and Isola Madre, situated in a large bay towards the west, and designed the Borromean Islands. Towards Switzerland the lake terminates in a canal, which is of much utility for commercial purposes; and near Cesti, which is ten leagues from the city of Milan, it discharges itself into the river Ticino, with a current rapid and dangerous to the navigation of small vessels. The Borromean Islands lie about fifteen miles distant by water from Cesti, and the passage to them displays a succession of curious and interesting objects, some of which are connected with their own history. Amongst these may be mentioned a colossal bronze statue of San Carlo Borromeo, above the small town and port of Arona, which is sixty feet in height, and stands on a pedestal of proportional dimensions. This gigantic image was cast at Milan, and brought hither in pieces. The Borromean Islands are of inconsiderable size, but the artificial decoration they have received has been the admiration of spectators since the middle of the seventeenth century, when both were barren and unprofitable rocks.

About this time Vitaliano, Count Borromeo, a nobleman of illustrious descent, and master-general of the ordnance to the king of Spain, resolving on their embellishment, directed that they should be covered with earth from the neighbouring banks of the lake. His injunctions were fulfilled, and, at an immense expense, the islands were converted into two gardens. Isola Madre appears in ten successive terraces, rising one hundred and thirty feet above the level of the water, each regularly decreasing in size from the base to the summit, which is an oblong surface, seventy feet by forty in extent, paved and surrounded by a balustrade. The whole are environed by gigantic marble statues of gods, goddesses, and horses, or other figures; and the walls are clothed with the finest fruit trees and evergreens, many of which belong to the southern climates. There is, besides, a magnificent palace towards the western end of the island, close to the lake, which almost washes its walls. It is built on arches, which are formed into grottoes, with a floor of Mosaic, representing various objects, and decorated also with shell-work and marble. The palace itself contains a profusion of marbles and paintings; and some flower-pieces, executed on marble, have been particularly admired, as also busts and statues. At the angles of the garden, which has a southern exposure, there are two round towers with lofty chambers adorned with red and white marble; and in the vicinity are groves of laurels, orange-trees, lofty cypresses, and other odoriferous plants, rendering it a delightful retreat. But much of the embellishment is lost by the immediate neighbourhood of a miserable hamlet.

Isola Madre, which is the larger of the islands, is between one and two miles from Isola Bella; it consists of a superstructure of seven terraces, apparently lower, but not less beautiful, than the other. However, it is of equal height in reality, the base being a perpendicular rock, rising considerably out of the water, and on that account not requiring so much covering. Here also there is a palace embellished with paintings and different ornaments; and in the gardens are groves of citrons, cedar, and orange-trees, besides a summer-house close to the lake. But all the decorations, as before, are necessarily on a limited scale, from the size of the island; and it excites the wonder of the spectator, that in a space thus restricted so much has been done. Pheasants were formerly bred in this island, as they were deterred by the vicinity of the water on all hands from attempting to escape. There were some hydraulic exhibitions in Isola Bella, and large cisterns or reservoirs to preserve them in action. When any foreign prince visited these islands in the night, or resided upon them, they were illuminated with various coloured lights. Their decorations were not only completed at an enormous expense, but to keep them in the same state since 1671, about which time they seem to have been finished, the charge has proved equally great. They are frequently called the "Enchanted Islands." Keyser, a learned traveller, says, "these two islands can be compared to nothing more properly than two pyramids of sweetmeats, ornamented with green festoons and flowers." And a later tourist, Coxe, who borrows largely from him, in speaking of the Isola Bella, observes, "if anything justly gives this island the appellation of enchanted, it is the prospect from the terrace. The gradual diminution of the mountains, from the regions of eternal snow to the rich plain; the sinuosity of the lake; its varied banks; the bay of Marzozzo, bounded by vast hills; the neighbouring borough of Palanza, and more distant view of Laveno, the numerous villages, the Isola Madre, and another island sprinkled with fishermen's huts, form a delightful assemblage."

These islands, after passing from the family of Borromeo, appear to have come into possession of the emperor of Germany. More recently, both of them, together with the western coast of the bailiog of Locarno, are said to have been ceded by the empress Maria Theresa to the king of Sardinia, in consideration of the assistance she had derived from him. The whole lake is environed by hills, covered with vineyards, and interspersed with summerhouses; beautiful rows of trees traverse its banks, and the scene is still further embellished by cascades falling from the mountains.