Home1842 Edition

BUTTON

Volume 5 · 485 words · 1842 Edition

an article in dress, the form and use of which are too well known to need description.

Metal Buttons. The metal with which the moulds are intended to be covered is first cast into small ingots, and then flattened into thin plates or leaves, of the thickness intended, at the flattening mills; after which it is cut into small round pieces proportional to the size of the mould they are intended to cover, by means of proper punches, on a block of wood covered with a thick plate of lead. Each piece of metal thus cut out of the plate is reduced into the form of a button by beating it successively in several cavities, or concave moulds, of a spherical form, with a convex puncheon of iron, always beginning with the shallowest cavity of the mould, and proceeding to the deeper, till the plate has acquired the intended form; and the better to manage so thin a plate, ten, twelve, and sometimes even twenty-four, are formed to the cavities, or concave moulds, at once; often sealing the metal during the operation, to make it more ductile. This plate is generally called by workmen the cop of the button.

The form being thus given to the plates or caps, the intended impression is struck on the convex side, by means of a similar iron puncheon, in a kind of mould engraved en creux, either by the hammer or the press used in coining. The cavity or mould in which the impression is to be made is of a diameter and depth suitable to the sort of button intended to be struck in it; each kind requiring a particular mould. Between the puncheon and the plate is placed a thin piece of lead, called by workmen a hob, which greatly contributes to take off all the strokes of the engraving; the lead, by reason of its softness, easily giving way to the parts which have relief, and as easily insinuating itself into the traces or indentures.

The plate thus prepared makes the cap or shell of the button. The lower part is formed of another plate, in the same manner, but much flatter, and without any impression. To the last or under plate is soldered a small eye, made of wire, by which the button is to be fastened.

The two plates being thus finished, they are soldered together with soft solder, and then turned in a lathe. Generally indeed they use a wooden mould instead of the under plate; and in order to fasten it, they pass a thread or gut across through the middle of the mould, and fill the cavity between the mould and the cap with cement, in order to render the button firm and solid; for the cement entering all the cavities formed by the relief of the other side, sustains it, prevents its flattening, and preserves its bosse or design.