or CHAMBLET, a stuff composed sometimes of wool, sometimes of silk, and sometimes of hair, especially that of goats, with wool or silk; in some, the warp is silk and wool twisted together, and the woof hair.
The true or oriental camblet is made of the pure hair of a sort of goat, frequent about Angora, and which constitutes the riches of that city, all the inhabitants of which are employed in the manufacture and commerce of camblets. In writers of the middle age we find mention made of stuffs composed of camels' hair, under the denominations of camelletum and camelinum, whence probably the origin of the term; but these are represented as strangely coarse, rough, and prickly, and seem to have been chiefly used among the monks by way of mortification, as the hair shirt of later times.
Figured CAMBELTS are those of one colour, on which are stamped various figures, flowers, foliage, &c., by means of hot irons, which are a kind of moulds, passed, together with the stuff, under a press.
Watered CAMBELTS are those which, after weaving, receive a certain preparation with water, and are afterwards passed under a hot press, which gives them a smoothness and lustre.
Waved CAMBELTS are those on which waves are impressed, as on tabbies, by means of a calender, under which they are passed and repassed several times.