a county in the province of Connaught, in Ireland, is bounded on the north by the counties of Mayo and Roscommon; on the east by those of Roscommon, King's County, and Tipperary; on the south by the county of Clare and by Galway Bay; and on the west by the Atlantic Ocean.
Its name is generally supposed to be derived from Gal, a stranger, or Gael, a merchant, and Iv, a territory, indicating a country inhabited by foreigners, or frequented by merchants. In the time of Ptolemy it was inhabited by the Auteri. In a later period it was divided into the districts of Clanconow, Hy-Maine, Maghullen, Lianlach, Hy-Fiaccin-Aidne, afterwards Clanrickard, and Hy-Tartagh. In the commencement of the sixteenth century it was portioned out amongst a number of families or septs, of which the principal were the O'Flahertys and O'Maleys in the west; the Burkes and Berminghams in the north; the O'Nughtens, O'Kellys, and O'Dalys in the east; and the O'Heynes, the O'Maddens, and the O'Shaughnessys in the north. It was made shire-ground by Elizabeth in 1589, and is now divided into seventeen baronies, of which Ballymore and Dunmore are in the north; Athenry, Clare, Duncollin, and Tyquin, in the centre; Killian, Kilconnel, and Clonmacnoon, in the east; Longford, Loughrea, Leitrim, and Kiltartan, in the south; and Arran, Ballynahinch, Moycullen, and Ross, in the west. These are subdivided into a hundred and six parishes, and nine parts of parishes, the remaining parts of which are in some of the adjoining counties.
According to the ecclesiastical divisions of Ireland, the county contains a hundred and sixteen parishes, of which forty-nine are in the archdiocese of Tuam, thirty-seven in the diocese of Clonfert, twenty in Kilmodanagh, eight in Elphin, and two in Killala. The episcopal seats of the first three of these sees are in this county. The archdiocese of Tuam extends also over a large portion of Mayo and Roscommon, comprehending a space of seventy-seven miles by sixty-three, being the largest see in the country in extent of surface. The bishop's lands, whence he derives the greater part of his income, are estimated at 49,281
acres, and his revenue is returned as amounting to £5549 per annum. In the town of Tuam there is a neat but small cathedral, which is used as the parish church. The Roman Catholic archbishop has just completed another cathedral, which is one of the most splendid fabrics for religious worship in Ireland. The see of Ardagh, in the county of Longford, is united to Tuam. The diocese of Clonfert, founded at the close of the sixth century, and extending into the county of Roscommon, is in the southeastern part of the county. Its lands, together with those of Kilnaedagh, which were united with it in 1602, amount to 6555 acres, but no return of the amount of its income is extant. Part of the bishop's emoluments arises from what are called the quartar pars, being a portion, generally a fourth, of the tithes of certain parishes. The cathedral, which is also the parish church of Clonfert, is an ancient and capacious structure; the bishop's palace is in its immediate neighbourhood. The cathedral of Kilnaedagh is now the church of one of the parishes which constitute the deanery. According to the new episcopal arrangements, the dioceses of Killala and Achonry are to be united with Tuam on the next vacancy, and those of Clonfert and Kilnaedagh with that of Killaloe.
Galway is naturally divided by Lough Corrib into two great divisions, differing from each other in several striking points. The eastern division, which comprehends all the county except the four western baronies, rests on a limestone base, is convertible into good tillage land, and is, generally speaking, level; the western, comprehending the three last-named baronies (for that of Arran is a cluster of islands at the mouth of Galway Bay), has a substratum of granite, and is barren, rugged, and mountainous. The southern part of the former of these divisions is supposed by some to be a continuation of the Golden Vale of Limerick, so celebrated for its fertility, and produces the finest wheat, except in the region of the Slieveboaghta Mountains, which form part of the boundary between this county and Clare. The northern part of the same division is also rich pasture and tillage ground, and beautifully diversified with hill and dale. Some of the intermediate country is comparatively barren; but those parts which would not repay the expense of tillage form excellent pasturage for sheep, which is the great staple commodity of the county.
The western division is divided into the three districts of Connemara, Tar-Connought, and Joyce's Country, which correspond in boundary with the three modern baronies of Ballynahinch, Moycullen, and Ross. The name of Connemara is, however, often applied to the whole district, and signifies the Bays of the Ocean. Its highest mountains are the group of Benbolia, or the Twelve Pins, which occupy a space of about five square miles, midway between Lough Corrib and Aghris Point, the most western projection of the county. Knockenihiggen, the highest of these, is 2400 feet high. The cliff to the south of Glen Ina presents a naked perpendicular cliff 1200 feet in elevation, over which a considerable sheet of water is precipitated. But this district, although mountainous, is not an elevated country; the surface of most of it is not a hundred feet above the level of the sea, rising from the edge of Galway Bay, in a gently sloping plain, to a height of not more than three hundred feet, where there are some hills about seven hundred feet high. Joyce's Country, more northwards, is an elevated tract, with flat-topped hills of from 1800 to 2000 feet high, with deep narrow valleys lying between them.
The rivers are few and small. The Suck, the largest, rises in Roscommon, and forms the eastern boundary, passing by Athleague and Ballynasloe, till it joins the Shannon at Shannon harbour. This latter river then forms part of the boundary to Mount Shannon. The Suck is joined by the Shevin and Ahascragh rivers. The Blackwater, which forms part of the northern boundary between Galway and Mayo, discharges itself into Lough Corrib. Near Shruil it sinks at once into the ground through an open called a shallow, and, after a short underground course, bursts forth again through several springs. The Carnanart passes through the southern baronies, and falls into Galway Bay. The Ballynahinch rises in the Twelve Pins Mountains, and after a short but rapid course empties itself into Birterbuy Bay.
The lakes are numerous. Lough Corrib extends from Galway town northwards thirty miles, affording a large scope for inland navigation. It communicates with the sea by the Galway river, but as its level is fourteen feet above high-tide mark, the fall is such as to prevent a water passage by the river from the bay to the lake. An attempt made to connect them by a canal having failed, is still pointed out under the name of Lynch's Folly. The lake is studded with many islands, some of them thickly inhabited. Near it is Lake Ross, which, with some smaller lakes, receives a large supply of water from streams, but has no visible outlet. In Connemara are a number of lakes extending nearly twenty miles from Lough Corrib to the sea, besides several others in other parts. About twenty-five of these are more than a mile in length each, and there are upwards of an hundred of a smaller diameter. The principal are lakes Ina, Derryclare, Ballynahinch, Poulagopple, and Fca. Lough Reagh, at the town of the same name, is more remarkable for scenic beauty than extent. Besides these perennial lakes, there are several low tracts which are covered with water during a great part of the year; they are called Turloughs. The largest is Turloughmore, extending from Tuam nearly to Clare Galway. Another of large size is near Rahasane. A few sheep are grazed on them during four months in summer, but they are unprofitable in winter. They are mostly of easy drainage; the main obstacle being the conflicting rights of the proprietors of the soil.
Galway enjoys the advantage of a very extended line of sea-coast, indented by numerous and safe harbours. Commencing at Killery Bay in the north, which separates the counties of Galway and Mayo, the first bay on the western coast is Ballynakill, capable of accommodating large ships, and sheltered by Truchelum or Heath Island. Next in succession is Cleggan Bay, having Ennisbofin in its offing. From Cleggan to Aghris Cape, the most western point of the county, the shore is a low granite, outside of which are Crua, High and Friar Islands, and Oney Island on its south. Streamstown is a narrow inlet, within which are the inhabited islands of Tarbert and Innisturk. Ardbear harbour divides itself into two inlets, the northern of which is terminated by the rising village of Cliden; the latter has a fine salmon fishery. Mannin Bay, though large, is but little frequented by shipping. From Slyne Head the coast turns eastward to Roundstone Bay, having its entrance protected by the islands of Innisnee and Innishacken; here the whole British navy could lie in safety. Next in order is Birterbuy Bay, deep and safe, and near it is the island of Crumakeely. Between it and Kilkerran Bay, the next in order eastwards, are the islands of Mason, Mynish, and Fynish, all inhabited; Elannacduara and Cruanakeely, now a deer park. Kilkerran Bay has a most productive kelp shore of nearly a hundred miles, including its islands of Anughvane, Garomma, Lettermore, Lettermullen, Knappagh, and Furnish, yet its mouth is but eight miles broad. Between Garomma and the main-land is Greatman's Bay, and close to it Costello Bay, the most eastern of those in Connemara. Next is the harbour of Galway, at the mouth of the River of Galway, having the village of Claddah on its western bank, inhabited by a most industrious and singular tribe of fishermen, by whom the town and neighbouring country is chiefly supplied with fish. At Oranmore the coast turns southwards, and presents the harbours of Rynville, Ardfry, Ballynacourty, Stradbally, Killeen or New Arran, Kinvarra, and Duras, where the county joins that of Clare. The whole of this coast, from Greatman's Bay eastward, together with the northern shore of Clare, to Blackhead, comprehends the Bay of Galway, the entrance of which is protected by the three islands of Arran, forming a distinct barony, and remarkable as well for many relics of ancient pagan and monastic institutions, as for the singular mode of life of the inhabitants.
The climate, though moist, variable, and exposed to frequent and violent gales from the west, is mild and salubrious. The country is subject to no diseases except those incident to a population not attentive to domestic neatness, and frequently in a state of great destitution. Frost or snow seldom remains long on the western coast, and cattle of every description continue unhoused during the winter.
The boundary line between the limestone and granite district is easily discernible to an intelligent eye, by the diminution of the verdant hue which marks the latter. The high road from Galway to Oughterard nearly marks the division. All the country to the north and east of this limit is limestone, all to the south and west granite, excepting some detached masses of primitive limestone between Oughterard and Clifden, and some scattered portions of other minerals, of great variety of appearance. The component rock of Benbola is quartz, in general distinctly stratified, or at least schistose. The position of its beds is various. Towards the western shore they are vertical, easily splitting by intervening mica plates, and affording a good building stone. Limestone occurs in some places along the foot of these mountains, where also is some green serpentine, which is conveyed to Galway and elsewhere for ornamental purposes. Round the basis of this group are also gneiss and mica slate, with bands of hornblende and primitive mica. Along the north side of Lough Corrib to Ballynakill the mica slate and hornblende rise into mountains, and the limestone disappears. From Lough Mask to Killary Bay is a transition country of greenstone and granaeckake slate, covered by the old red sandstone or conglomerate. The hill of Glan on the shore of Lough Corrib exhibits, in a small compass, all the formations which occur in the district. The western end is quartz; the north-eastern side mica slate; the middle is penetrated by beds of mica slate, containing hornblende and granular mica covered by thick beds of pyritous greenstone. On the south and east are granite and syenite, which runs under the sandstone, conglomerate towards Oughterard, and this again passes under the flextz limestone, which, passing Lough Corrib, occupies the greater part of Connaught and Leinster. Along the borders of the flextz limestone is a series of vast caverns, usually traversed by subterraneous rivers, a phenomenon which, though not of unfrequent occurrence in limestone countries, is peculiarly striking here. The succession of the stratified rocks may be distinctly seen at the water-fall at Oughterard. A fine gritstone, highly valued for making mill-stones, is raised near Dunmore. Crystaline sand, of a superior quality for scythe boards, occurs at Lough Coutra; and mowers come for it from great distances. Lead has been found near Lough Corrib and other parts of Connemara, manganese at Slieve-an-tur in the south. Iron was raised at Woodford, and smelted until the timber was exhausted. The mountains of Slieveboghta, which separate Galway from Clare, are siliceous. A beautiful black marble, without spots or flaws, and susceptible of a high polish, is raised near the town of Galway in large quantities, particularly for chimney-pieces. Mineral spas, mostly chalybeate, are abundant. That at Kingston was pronounced by Kirwan to be one of the best in Europe. At the village of Quose is a well which instantly kills poultry that drink of it. A spa at Oughterard draws many invalids to that town. Others at Athenry, Woodbrook, Rathglass, Killimore, and Abbert, are equally prized in their respective neighbourhoods.
The inhabitants of Galway are not distinguished by any striking peculiarities from those of the rest of the province. It is known that, on the settlement of Ireland after the Restoration, great pains were taken to remove to Connaught such of the native Irish as had been allowed to retain their property, in somuch that many proprietors of this description, who had resided in other provinces, were compelled to exchange their properties for lands in it supposed to be of equal value with what they were forced to surrender. They were also prohibited from settling in any of the corporate towns, or within a mile of the sea-coast, the boundary of which was called the mile-line. Thus cooped up, and debarred all opportunities of intermixing with strangers, it is not surprising that they have retained many peculiarities of appearance and manners. But these peculiarities are not confined to this county. One very remarkable variety of the species is exhibited in the fishermen of Claddagh. This village is supposed to have been the germ of the now populous and once commercial town of Galway. The inhabitants form a community of about 1100 souls, who intermarry among one another, and jealously resist the residence of strangers. The men are all fishermen. This is their sole occupation. They are governed by a mayor, elected by themselves, whose only mark of office is the white sail of his boat, and a flag at its mast-head; but to him they pay implicit deference. He regulates the time of the sailing of the fishing fleet, and its movements when at sea. At home the women are mistresses; the moment the boats' cargoes are unloaded, the whole is transferred to them; they make the sales and spend the produce, their husbands being fully satisfied with the liberal allowance of spirits and tobacco they receive from them; but on their fishing expeditions no ardent spirits are suffered in their boats; their stock then consists solely of potatoes, oatmeal bread, fire, and water. Their language is Irish, which they speak with a harsh discordant accent. Literary education is almost unknown among them. The dress of the men consists of three flannel vests under a fourth of white dimity, a blue rug jacket, and blue plush breeches never fastened at the knees, blue worsted stockings, a horizontal-brimmed hat, and a red silk neckerchief. Among the women, the matron's dress is a blue mantle, a red body gown and petticoat, and a silk handkerchief on the head. Unmarried women are known by their muslin caps trimmed with the richest lace; ribbons are not worn. Females of all ages are remarkable for attention to neatness, both in their persons and household. It is scarcely necessary to add, that their religion is almost exclusively Roman Catholic, there being but one or two exceptions. Marriages are generally preceded by an elopement, and followed by a boisterous merry-making. The possession of a boat, or at least a share of one, is deemed the qualification requisite to justify a young man in taking upon himself the charge of a family. The great village festival is celebrated on St John's day in midsummer, when all the young men of the village march through Galway in uniform white jackets, with silken sashes, and flowers in their hats, carrying flags and standards with fanciful devices, and preceded by two or three of the most arch wags among them, disguised as mummers. The day terminates with bonfires, dancing, and village merriment. St Patrick's day is also a season of peculiar festivity, which continues for two or three days.
The population of the county was as follows at the periods stated in the under-cited authorities:
| Year | Population | |------|------------| | 1760 | De Burgo...82,188 | | 1792 | Beaumont...142,000 | | 1812 | Parliamentary return...261,000 | | 1821 | Do...309,599 | | 1831 | Do...394,287 | According to these calculations, the population has increased with extraordinary rapidity, having nearly tripled in the course of forty years.
Notwithstanding its great extent and proportionate population, the county sent but eight members to the Irish parliament; two for the county at large, and two each for the boroughs of Galway, Athenry, and Tuam. By the act of Union the number of borough members was reduced to three, two for the county and one for the town of Galway. By the reform act this number was increased to four; the county and town now returning two members each. The constituency previously to the disfranchisement of the forty-shilling freeholders was the most numerous of any county in Ireland. The changes produced on its numbers by the Catholic relief act, and by the reform act, will best appear by the following table:
| Year | L.50 | L.20 | L.10 | 40s. | Total | |------|------|------|------|-----|-------| | 1829 | 828 | 274 | 950 | 32,655 | 34,107 | | 1830 | 897 | 299 | 1812 | ... | 3,008 | | 1831 | 326 | 191 | 2540 | ... | 3,057 |
From the population returns of 1821, and those of the commissioners of education in 1824-26, the state of education was as follows:
| Year | Boys | Girls | Sex not ascertained | Total | |------|------|-------|---------------------|-------| | 1821 | 7,690| 3161 | ... | 10,851| | 1824-26 | 11,874 | 6487 | 463 | 18,824 |
Of the number of pupils stated in the latter return, 1471 were of the established church, and 17,090 Roman Catholics. The number educated by grants of public money was 1600, of those educated by the contributions of societies or individuals 3626, and of those who paid for their instruction 18,598. The average proportion of Protestants to Catholics, estimated from the relative numbers of the children of each persuasion receiving scholastic instruction, was as 1 to 11½ nearly.
The eastern part of the county produces the best wheat, the growth of which requires the preparatory culture of potatoes. Oats are frequently sown after potatoes in moory soils less adapted for wheat. Manure is generally abundant, but most so in the western districts, which do not admit the growth of wheat. The flat shores of the bays there are formed of coralline sand, and the quantities of sea-weed thrown up after storms affords a copious supply of vegetable manure. Limestone gravel and marl is to be had in most other parts. When this substance is applied to reclaimed bog, the admixture of animal manure, however small the quantity, is said to render it much more effective. When a sufficient quantity of manure for potatoes cannot be had, the usual practice is to pare and burn the surface, for which purpose a broad and sharp spade, with a considerable bend in the blade to prevent the necessity of stooping, is made use of. Potatoes are still planted in ridges by the small farmers, who make much use of spade culture, particularly in the upland districts, where the ruggedness of the surface is unfavourable to the application of the plough. They also pay great attention to the weeding of their crops. When sea-weed is used for potato ground, it is previously dried, but used fresh in preference to being thrown up in heaps to putrefy. In many places on the sea-shore fine early potatoes are raised in several feet of sea-sand, manured with sea-weed, which is succeeded by barley. Oxen are little used in husbandry, excepting by a few extensive farmers. The plough is clumsy and defective. The fences most in use are formed of the stones collected from the surface, and raised to the height of five or six feet in dry walls, broad at base, and narrowing upwards. Thrashing-mills are uncommon; carts are not generally employed, as the small cars are cheaper in construction, and more easily worked in the mountainous parts. Slide-cars are still in use in some places, as being the only kind fit to draw loads down steep hills. The chief markets for grain are Galway, Loughrea, Tuam, Ballynasloe, Gort, Eyrecourt, and Mount Bellew. Flour-mills are numerous. Those parts of the eastern district less fitted for grain are employed in pasturage. Heathy sheep-walks occupy a very large tract between Monivoe and Galway. An extensive range from Athenry, stretching to Galway Bay at Kinvarra, is also chiefly occupied by sheep. Tracts of coarse moory ground are attached to many farms, which only require draining, a practice little known or encouraged to repay the labour of tillage amply.
A breed of small hardy horses is raised in Connemara; but, in consequence of the introduction of stallions of large size, it is declining. The breed of black cattle is chiefly long-horned. A great improvement has taken place in sheep as to the carcass, but to the deterioration of the fleece. Some of the old stock of red deer are occasionally seen, and hunted down or shot. The great fairs for cattle and wool are held at Ballynasloe, in May and October. Dairies on an extensive scale are unknown; but excellent butter is made in the neighbourhood of Galway. In Connemara cows are very frequent with the cottage farmers.
Manufactures are not carried beyond the demand caused by the domestic consumption of the people. Coarse friezes, flannels, and blankets are made in all parts, and sold largely in Galway and Loughrea. Connemara has been long celebrated for its woollen stockings. They are knit by the hand, and have a softness and elasticity superior to that of the woven article; but they are slight, and therefore give but little wear. The fineness of the wool is one great cause of their excellence. The women adhere to a very primitive practice in the manufacture. When about to commence a pair, the operator goes to the mountain, clips off from the living animal the quantity she deems sufficient, and works it up. Hence it is nowadays uncommon to see a sheep with one side shorn, or a part of the neck and shoulders bare of wool, according to the judgment or fancy of the stocking knitter. Coarse linen, of a narrow breadth, called bundle linen, is also made for home consumption; but sufficient attention to the spinning and reeling of the yarn, and to the weaving of the cloth, is wanting to entitle it to appear to advantage in foreign markets. Coarse sacks of tow, for packing wool and bacon for exportation from the great provision marts of the south, are in much demand. The manufacture of finer linens and diapers was attempted, but with little success. That of kelp is one of the great sources of profit on the western shores. It was introduced about the year 1700. At first the kelp sold as low as from 14s. to 16s. a ton, but rose progressively until it advanced to L16 a ton in 1810; but since that time it has fallen, both on account of the increased supply from other quarters, and from negligence or fraud in the preparation of the homemade article. The price is now about L4 the ton, and the quantity manufactured about 10,000 tons. Of the minor manufactures, marble is wrought for domestic and sepulchral purposes in Galway. Coarse pottery and tobacco pipes are made in the same town, and at Creggs and Dunsandle. Felt hats and coarse straw bonnets are made in several places. Feathers are brought in great quantities from the islands of Arran, where they are procured from the puffins and other sea-fowl that frequent the cliffs on the coasts. They are caught by men trained to the practice, who are let down at night from the projecting crags above, by means of a rope tied round their waist, to the haunts of the birds; and on supplying themselves with all they can capture, they are hauled up again in the morning. Sea fowls' eggs are collected in large quantities in the same manner.
Amongst the relics of antiquity are the round towers of Ardrahan, Ballygaddy, Kilbannon, Kilmacduagh, Medlick, and Murrough. The last-named of these is of very small dimensions; that of Kilmacduagh, which is still fifty feet high, inclines seventeen feet from the perpendicular. Rath are numerous, and several cromleachs are still to be seen in good preservation. The ruins of monastic buildings are also numerous. That of Knockmoy, about six miles from Tuam, contains the monument of O'Connor, one of the kings of Ireland. It is adorned with fresco paintings, which are still in a state of some preservation. Ancient castles are likewise numerous; some have been kept in repair, and are still inhabited; but by much the greater number are in ruins. The castle of Tuam, built in 1161 by Roderic O'Connor, king of Ireland, is said to have been the first building of this description of stone and mortar in Ireland. The remains of a round castle, a form of building very uncommon in the military architecture of the country, is to be seen between York and Kilmacduagh.
county town, is also a county in itself, having an exclusive local jurisdiction, which extends two miles on every side except the south. It stands on the northern shore of the Bay of Galway, on the eastern bank of the river of the same name, and is enclosed on the land side by the baronies of Clare, Dunkellin, and Moycullen. It is supposed by some to be the Nagnata or Naguata of Ptolemy. It certainly was considered a position of much importance from the earliest period, as in the divisions of the island into north and south, at first made by the descendants of Heremon, and afterwards repeated by Conn and Eogan, it was fixed upon as the eastern extremity of the line of demarcation, which proceeded eastwards to Dublin. Little, however, is known of it until after the arrival of the English, at which time it was under the protection of O'Flaherty, who possessed the adjoining district to the west. On the extinction of the native dynasty of the O'Connors, the town fell into the hands of the De Burgos, the head of a branch of which, under the name of M-Wil- liam Eighter, long governed it by magistrates of his own appointment. After it had been secured by walls, which began to be built in 1270, it became the residence of a number of enterprising settlers, through whom it attained a position of much commercial celebrity. Of these settlers the principal families, fourteen in number, are still known by the name of the Tribes of Galway. Their names are preserved in the following distich:
Athy, Blake, Bolkin, Browne, Deane, Darcey, Lynch, Joyce, Kirwan, Martin, Morris, Skerrett, French.
The tribe whose name is not included in the rhyme was called Ffont. These families became so closely connected by intermarriages, that dispensations are frequently requisite for the canonical legality of marriages among them at present. The town rapidly increased from this period in wealth and commercial rank, in this respect far surpassing the rival city of Limerick. Richard II. granted it a charter of incorporation with liberal privileges, which was confirmed by his successor. It had the right of coining by act of parliament; but there is no evidence to show that it exerted the privilege. Another charter, granted in 1545, extended the jurisdiction of the port to the islands of Arran, permitted the exportation of all kinds of goods except linens and woollens, and confirmed all the former privileges. The commercial prosperity of the town, which had been steadily advancing under the protecting favour of the government, received its first check from an unfavourable decision of the Court of Chancery, respecting the prisage of wine; a toll paid by every sea-port to the head of the Ormond family, in right of his office of chief butler to the king, and from the payment of which Galway claimed an exemption which had been hitherto acquiesced in. Wine was the great staple of commerce. The payment of prisage, which consisted of two pipes of wine from every vessel discharging at the port, was a heavy drawback upon its profits. But soon after, its municipal privileges were extended by a charter from James I., whereby the town, and a district of two miles round in every direction, were formed into a distinct county, with exclusive jurisdiction and a right of choosing its own magistrates. During the civil wars of 1641, the town took part with the Irish, and was surrendered on articles to the parliamentary forces under Sir Charles Coote; after which the ancient inhabitants were mostly driven out, and their property given to adventurers and soldiers, chiefly from England. On the accession of James II. the old inhabitants entertained sanguine hopes of recovering their former rights. But the successes of King William soon put an end to their expectations; and the town, after undergoing another siege, again capitulated to the force brought against it by General Ginkel, on condition of a safe conduct for the garrison to Limerick, pardon and the protection of property and civil rights to the townsmen, and the free exercise of their religion in private. The penal statutes passed by Queen Anne against the Roman Catholics in general rendered the latter clause of the capitulation nugatory, and exposed that portion of the population which stood in need of its protection to much hardship, particularly on the breaking out of the rebellions of 1715 and 1745 in Scotland. During the period of volunteering, Galway embodied a corps of eight companies; and in the subsequent insurrection in 1798, the merchants, at an hour's notice, furnished General Hutchinson with fifteen hundred guineas, to enable him to join Lord Lake at Castlebar, whether the yeoman company of the town accompanied him, and took part in the battle at that place. In the beginning of the present century the walls were thrown down, and buildings erected on their site. Several streets have also been carried out eastwards, to which the name of the New Town is given.
Galway is governed by a mayor, two sheriffs, the free burgesses, and the commons, with a recorder, town-clerk, and other subordinate officers. The mayor is permitted to have a sword of state carried before him. The right of returning members was exercised at an early period. By the act of union the number of representatives was reduced to one; but the other was restored to it by the reform act. The population in 1821 amounted to 27,775, and in 1831 it had increased to 33,120.
In its ecclesiastical arrangements the town formed part of the ancient diocese of Enachdume or Annaghdown, which was incorporated in 1314 with the archdiocese of Tuam. But in 1484 it was erected into an exempt jurisdiction by the name of the wardenship of Galway, to be governed by a warden and eight vicars, chosen by the corporation; the parishes of Furummore, Moycullen, Skreen, and Ballincare, were united to the wardenship. At the Reformation it was deprived of much of its property; and since that time there have been two wardens, a Protestant, nominated by the corporation, and a Catholic, chosen by the ancient inhabitants or tribes.
The town is situated on the extremity of a projecting neck of land, rising with a gentle acclivity between the river and the sea. The space within the walls formed an oval of about 3436 square perches, covered with strongly built houses, chiefly in the antique Spanish fashion, being square, with a court in the centre, and a gateway opening into the street. St Nicholas' Church is the most remarkable building in the town. It is cruciform, 152 feet long by 126 broad, having a steeple rising over the nave, and the side aisles separated from the centre by Gothic pillars. Its interior can accommodate upwards of 5000 individuals. There are several antique monuments in it. The exchange, or tholsel, near the church, consists of an open corridor, 90 feet long by 28 broad, with a front of arches supporting an upper story, in which are apartments for holding the town courts, and for other public purposes. The county court-house is an elegant modern building; having ample accommodations for all the purposes of its erection; near it are the county and town prisons, both modern structures; the former being considered as the best constructed prison in the province. The barracks are small buildings detached from each other. The town has also a county infirmary, in which between 800 and 900 patients are annually relieved, and also a fever hospital. A grammar school, under the board of Erasmus Smith, is in the immediate neighbourhood of the town; and a chartered school was opened in 1750, but closed in the year 1798; the building is now a nunnery. It has been succeeded by a public school for the education of 150 indigent children. The meat and fish markets are convenient, well kept, and plentifully supplied. The small mutton from the island of Arran is peculiarly esteemed for its flavour. The river is crossed by two bridges; the one near its mouth was built in the year 1342, and, after setting at defiance the impetuosity of the current for five centuries, appears sufficient to brave it for as many more; the other, higher up the stream, an elegant modern structure, connects the county court-house and the jail. A literary association, called the Amicable Society, has collected a library of some extent, to which a news-room is attached. There are several charitable institutions for the relief of disease, the maintenance of the aged and impotent, and the care and instruction of orphans.
Galway, though much reduced in the scale of mercantile importance, is still an extensive exporting town, particularly of grain, flour, and kelp. For some years the average export of grain was 4000 tons. Large quantities of flour are manufactured in the town and its vicinity; much of it is transported to Dublin by the canals. The imports are flax-seed, timber, hemp, tallow, iron, and coal. The port duties are little more than sufficient to defray the expenses of the establishment employed in their collection.
Amongst the eminent characters to which this town has given birth were, Patrick Darcy, the author of the argument for the independence of Ireland before the House of Commons in 1641; John Lynch, author of Cambrensis Eversus, and other tracts on the antiquities of the country; Roderic O'Flaherty, author of the Ogygia, who died in 1718; Sir George Staunton, secretary to Lord Macartney in India, and author of the account of that nobleman's embassy to Pekin; Walter Blake Kirwan, celebrated as a popular preacher in Dublin; and Richard Kirwan, the chemist and mineralogist.
The other towns of much notoriety are Ballinasloe, on the borders of Roscommon, the great cattle and wool staple for Ireland, where fairs are held twice a year, in May and in October, at which immense droves of black cattle and flocks of sheep are disposed of; (the grand canal from Dublin terminates here); Athenry, a town of considerable importance in the earlier periods of Irish history; and Loughrea, beautifully situated on the borders of a small lake of the same name.