This tract of country extends along the western coast of India, from Cape Comorin to the river Chandragiri, in lat. 12. 30. north. The British province of Malabar is a particular portion of this tract, which is situated between the 10th and 13th degrees of north latitude. To the north it is bounded by the province of Canara, to the south by the rajah of Cochin's territories, to the west by the ocean, and to the east by the chain of the Western Ghauts, below which the country lies, extending about 200 miles along the sea-coast. The country may be divided into two portions, the first of which borders the sea-coast, and consists of a poor sandy soil, seldom above three miles wide, and in general not so much. Low branches of hills extend from the Ghauts to a considerable distance to the westward, and sometimes even to the sea. The strip of country bordering upon the sea is well adapted for the cultivation of rice; and it is remarkably intersected by inlets of the sea, which often run for great lengths parallel to the line of coast, receiving the various mountain-streams, and communicating with the ocean by different narrow and shallow openings. In other places, the fresh water, as it descends from the mountains into the low lands within the downs upon the sea-coast, in the rainy season, totally overflows them, as the water has no issue, and must consequently stagnate until it evaporates. By this natural irrigation the lands are fitted for some particular qualities of rice. There are a few mountain streams and rivers; and the distance of the mountains from the sea is too insignificant for the formation of any large river. By far the most extensive portion of Malabar lies in the vicinity of the Ghaut Mountains, and consists of low hills separated by narrow valleys, which are in general extremely fertile, being the receptacles of the fine particles of mould carried down from the hills, and which stop when they can be carried no farther. The hills have mostly level summits, which are bare in many parts, especially towards the north, and expose to the view large surfaces of naked rock, with remarkably steep sides; but they are seldom of any considerable height. They are in general very industriously cultivated; their sides, which possess the best soil, being formed into terraces. The valleys are in most cases watered by rivulets which carry off the superfluous water; and where there is no issue, it overflows the adjacent lands. The upland is barren, and the cultivation much neglected; and it is in the valleys and extensive ravines, and upon the banks of the rivers, that the inhabitants chiefly reside. Dr Buchanan mentions that some parts of the country which he passed through in this province were the most beautiful he had ever seen, being equal to the finest parts of Bengal, but the trees were loftier, and the palms more numerous. In many places the rice-grounds are interspersed with high swells, that are crowded with houses; whilst the view to the north is bounded by naked rocky mountains, and to the south by the lofty forests of the Travancore hills. The climate is moist; the low country of Malabar, as well as the whole region which lies under the Western Ghauts, becomes excessively hot in the month of February; and the vapours and exhalations are so thick, that it is difficult to distinguish objects at the distance even of five miles. These vapours may be viewed from the mountains, where the cold is very severe. The moisture collected increases with the heat; and in March and April a prodigious quantity is accumulated, and floats in the atmosphere, sometimes ascending nearly to the tops of the mountains, where it is checked or condensed by the cold; but, descending immediately after, it is again rarefied by the heat of the lower atmosphere, into vapour, before it reaches the earth. At the setting in of the western monsoon, the whole is condensed into rain, which falls very heavily, partly in the low country, and partly in the mountains; and a small portion escapes and is blown across Mysore. These heavy rains serve to bear away the soil, and leave nothing but loose stones and sand upon the hills. The country abounds in lofty forests, which are sometimes intermixed with corn-fields and plantations of fruit-trees. The teak is produced in great abundance, mostly about Manarhaut; but it is too remote from any navigable river to be transported with a profit from the place of its growth. Sandal-wood is also exported from Malabar, though it is not the produce of the country; at least such as is found within the limits of Malabar is not of a good quality, being entirely devoid of smell; but, growing as it does immediately to the eastward of the Western Ghauts, all that is produced towards the sources of the Cavery naturally comes to Malabar, which affords the nearest ports that can be found for its exportation. The palm is produced in the greatest abundance about Palighaut, and with proper care an excellent spirit might be extracted from it. These forests, unlike those in India, are the private property of the landholders, who have exercised the right of selling and mortgaging the trees to Moplay merchants. This right is interfered with in a manner equally oppressive and impolitic by the surveyor of forests, an officer appointed with a view to preserve them. Sir Thomas Munro, with his usual enlightened views, remonstrated against his interference with the proprietors of the forests, and pointed out its prejudicial effects upon the interests of all parties concerned, and the grievance was to a certain extent redressed. Cocoa-nut trees abound in the province. Black pepper is produced abundantly in Malabar, and forms the chief export by Europeans, who usually purchase about five eighths of all that is produced, and carry it principally to Europe directly, or to Bombay and China. The remainder is chiefly exported by native traders to the Bay of Bengal, Surat, Cutch, Sinde, and other countries in the north-west of India; and a considerable quantity finds its way to the Arabian ports of Muscat, Mocha, Hodeida, and Aden. They use scarcely any horses, asses, swine, sheep, or goats, in Malabar; and such as are required for the use of the inhabitants are imported from the east. They have a small breed of cattle and buffaloes; but even these are but little used in the transportation of goods, which are usually carried by porters. Poultry have been introduced into the country by the Europeans; and common fowl may be had in abundance. In many parts field labour is performed by slaves, who are the absolute property of their lords, and may be sold at pleasure. But a husband and wife cannot be separated, though parents may be taken from their children. The country is distinguished by the neatness of its villages, which are superior to any in India. They are built of mud, which is neatly smoothed, and are either white-washed or painted; and are much embellished by the beauty and elegant dresses of the Brahmin girls. The villages, as well as the bazaars, are the work of foreigners, the aboriginal natives of Malabar living in detached houses surrounded with gardens. The higher ranks use little clothing, but are remarkably clean in their persons; and all ranks are free from cutaneous distempers, excepting the very lowest castes of slaves.

The country being intersected by many rivers, and bounded by a high wall of mountains, was protected by these natural obstacles against the torrent of Mahommedan invasion which desolated other parts of India; and it was not till 1766, when it was invaded by Hyder Ali, that it was subjected to a foreign yoke. Hence the original manners and peculiar customs of the Hindus have been preserved here in much greater purity than in other parts of India. Besides the Hindus, who form the great proportion of the inhabitants, the population consists of Moplays or Mahommedans, Christians, and Jews. The Hindus are divided into the following castes; namely, Namuries, or Brahmins; the Nairs of various denominations; the Teers or Tiaras, who are cultivators of the land, and freemen; the Malears, who are musicians and conjurors, and also freemen; and, lastly, the Patiars, who are slaves or bondmen. Of these castes, the most remarkable are the Nairs, the pure Sudras of Malabar, who all lay claim to be born soldiers, though they are of various ranks and professions. There are altogether eleven ranks of Nairs, who form the militia of Malabar, under the Brahmins and rajas. They are proud and arrogant to their inferiors; and, in former times, a Nair was expected instantly to cut down a cultivator or fisherman who presumed to defile him by touching his person, or a Patiar who did not turn out of his road as a Nair passed. It is a remarkable custom amongst this class, that a Nair never cohabits with the person whom he calls his wife. He gives her all proper allowances of clothing and food; but she remains in her mother's or brother's house, and cohabits with any person or persons she chooses, of equal rank; so that no Nair knows his own father; and the children all belong to the mother, whose claim to them admits of no doubt. This state of manners also prevails in the neighbouring countries of Travancore, Bednowe, and Canara.

As in Malabar, the ancient Hindu state of property and manners prevails, almost the whole land, cultivated and uncultivated, belongs to individuals, and is held by a right which conveys a full and absolute property in the soil. There are many traditions and conjectures respecting the origin of landed property in those countries; and upon this subject a very full detail will be found in Mr Thackeray's report on the land tenures and assessments in Malabar, in which he, along with Colonel Munro and others, strongly contends, that in the southern parts of India, namely, in Malabar, Tanjore, Trichinopoly, &c., the private right of property in the soil has been established from time immemorial. "The occupants of the land," says one of the collectors of the revenue in Southern India, "by whatever name distinguished, have the right of selling, bestowing, devising, and bequeathing their lands, in the manner which to them is most agreeable." The succession to property, in consequence of the extraordinary customs of the Nairs, depends on the mother, about whom there can be no mistake, though the father is frequently uncertain.

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1 See Journey from Madras, through Mysore, Canara, and Malabar, by F. Buchanan, M. D. vol. ii. p. 347. 2 See Fifth Report of the Select Committee on India Affairs, p. 799. 3 Ibid. p. 831. Extract from the Report of the principal Collector of Tanjore and Trichinopoly. Christianity appears at a very early period to have made considerable progress on the Malabar coast; and there is a greater proportion of persons professing that religion in this than in any other part of India. Three ecclesiastical chiefs, two appointed by the Portuguese church at Goa, and one by the see of Rome, ruled over this establishment, besides the Babylonish bishops who preside over the Nestorian community. Forty-four churches compose at present the Nestorian communion, which has been reduced from 200,000 souls, its amount before the arrival of Vasco de Gama, to about 40,000. The total number of Christians on the Malabar coast, including the Syrians or Nestorians, is computed to amount to 200,000, of whom 90,000 are settled in Travancore. The Jews are estimated at 30,000.

It is supposed that Malabar was, at a very early period, conquered by a king from above the Ghauts. The Nairs may have been established at the same time by the conqueror, or called in by the Brahmins, as a military body, to support the government. In process of time they obtained settlements in the land; and the chiefs, taking every opportunity to aggrandize themselves, became rajahs, and from a remote period continued to govern Malabar like independent princes, until Hyder's invasion in 1760. Tradition, and the general opinion of the inhabitants, contradict the notion that any land-tax existed in Malabar prior to that event. No conclusive evidence is supplied on this subject by the doubtful analogies of the neighbouring states; in some of which, such as Travancore, no land-tax was said to exist, whilst in Canara a regular land-tax has been imposed for centuries. There does not seem to have been any urgent necessity for the establishment of a general land-tax, as there was no army besides the militia, nor indeed any expensive establishments. Hyder subdued the country in 1761, and expelled all the rajahs, except such as conciliated him by immediate submission. Disturbances were occasioned by these proceedings; but he succeeded in establishing his authority, and in 1782 appointed a deputy, who made still further progress in subduing and settling the country. In 1788 Tippoo, his son, proposed to the Hindus to embrace the true faith, and began by levying contributions on his infidel subjects, and forcibly circumcising many of the Brahmins, Nairs, and others. This produced a serious rebellion, which, however, was soon quelled by his vigorous administration; and in the mean time the country was laid waste by these tyrannical proceedings. On the breaking out of the war between Tippoo and the British in 1790, the refractory rajahs and Nairs, who were leading a predatory life in the jungles, were encouraged to join the Company's army. After the war, they were re-instated in their authority; but they made such large claims to independence, whilst they failed at the same time to fulfil their engagements for the payment of the revenue, and were also so tyrannical in their proceedings, that they were finally deprived of all authority, and allowed one fifth of their revenues for the support of their dignity. Many of them, in consequence, had recourse to rebellion; but they were put down by a military force, and some of them punished. Since this period, under the management of the British collectors of revenue, the country exhibits comparative tranquillity, and is said to be advancing in prosperity; though the heavy assessments imposed by the British tend to obstruct its progress.

Under the name of Malabar is distinguished a large tract of country extending along the western coast of India, from Cape Comorin to the river Chandragiri, in lat. 12° 30' north; and the term is frequently erroneously applied to the whole country from Bombay to the southern extremity. The above account applies only to the British province of that name.

Malabar Point, a remarkable promontory of Hindustan, on the island of Bombay, remarkable for a cleft rock, in great repute for its sanctity amongst the numerous Hindus who resort thither for the purpose of being purified from their sins, which is effected by passing through the aperture, which is of considerable elevation, being situated amongst rocks of difficult access, that, in the stormy season, are incessantly washed by the billows. In the vicinity are the ruins of a temple, said to have been blown up by the Portuguese; and a beautiful Brahmin village, built round a fine tank of considerable extent, with broad flights of steps down to the water.