the capital of the English county of the same name, is situated at the junction of the river Cherwell with the Isis, which about eight miles lower down receives the waters of the Thame, and then becomes the Thames, a contraction of Thame-Isis. It is fifty-five miles from London by the High Wycombe road, and fifty-eight by Henley. It is pleasantly situated on ground rising gently from the rivers which almost surround it, and its immediate vicinity smiles with fertile and verdant meadows; beyond which, on the east, south, and west sides, it is bounded by an amphitheatre of hills, and on the north the view is extended over a rich district in the highest state of cultivation. The air is pure and salubrious; and from the neighbouring heights, the city, with its spires, and domes, and towers, presents an impressive spectacle of all that is lovely in nature, magnificent in art, and sacred in antiquity.

The locality of Oxford is favourable for intercourse with the whole of the kingdom. It is nearly in the centre of England; and good lines of road pass through it from almost every quarter. Its vicinity supplies most of the first necessaries of life with facility; and though formerly the enormous price of fuel was the subject of serious complaint, that evil has been remedied by a canal which joins the Grand Junction Canal at Braunston, in Northamptonshire, and has proved a great advantage to the city, by conveying the coals of Staffordshire at a cheap rate, whilst the capital expended in the undertaking has become a very lucrative investment to those who embarked money in the project. Besides the canal, Oxford has water communication by the river Thames with both sides of the kingdom. The Thames and Severn Canal unites these two rivers through the Stroud Canal, and thus goods may be conveyed downwards to Oxford from Bristol, Gloucester, Worcester, and Birmingham, and upwards from the mouth of the Thames near the metropolis of the empire.

The city, properly so called, was formerly surrounded by walls, considerable portions of which still remain. It is of an oval form, and about two miles in circumference. The municipal limits, which are now made co-extensive with the parliamentary boundary, comprehends the whole or part of twenty parishes, the extreme extent of the borough each way being now about three miles. Four principal streets, broad and well built, cross each other at the centre; but the communications between these streets are rather narrow. The High Street is generally admired, as well for its length as for the number and the magnificence of the buildings on both sides of it; the effect of which is much heightened by its curvature, which at every advance opens up new views of architectural grandeur. In this street is the entrance to the market, which is well stored with provisions of every kind, equal in quality to any in the kingdom. The town-hall is a fine building, serving the purpose which its name expresses, as well as that of a county-hall; and the assizes, the county-sessions, the election for city and county members, as well as public meetings, are held in it. It was built in 1754, at the expense of Mr Rowney, then member for the city; but has been since considerably improved by the united funds of the county and the city. It is one hundred and thirty-five feet in length by thirty-two feet in breadth, and is the apartment in which, in the year 1814, the freedom of the city was presented to George IV., the emperor of Russia, the king of Prussia, and many other distinguished personages. Adjoining to this edifice is the council-chamber, for meetings of the city council, which is adorned with portraits of eminent persons and benefactors. The corporation now consists of a mayor, ten aldermen, and thirty councillors, with a recorder, and justices of the peace appointed by the crown. The city returns two members to the House of Commons. These, before the Reform Act, were elected by the freemen; but the ten-pound householders are now added to them. Oxford is a county of itself. The county-jail, a large building, was erected upon the site of the ancient castle about thirty years ago; but, besides the county-jail, there is a city prison and a bridewell. The remains of the original tower of the fortress, and a large magazine for storing provisions for the garrison, are still preserved. Some have pretended to trace the origin of Oxford to remote antiquity; but their speculations can only be looked upon as fanciful conjectures. No credit can be given to any statement respecting it previous to the reign of Alfred. In 727, a monastery was founded at Oxford, or, as it was originally called, Oxenford, dedicated to the Holy Trinity. The habitations of the laity attracted to the neighbourhood were probably the origin of the town; and as the clergy, previous to the Conquest, were the sole depositories of learning, and the only teachers to whom the people could look for instruction, and as every monastery became more or less a kind of school, it is not improbable that the educational department of the monastery was the germ of the University of Oxford.

In the course of thirty years, between 979 and 1009, the town was thrice consumed by fire; and during the contests between the Danes and Saxons, it often suffered severely. It was the occasional residence of King Edmund, surnamed Ironside, who was murdered there; of Canute the Great, who repeatedly held parliaments in it; and of Harold, surnamed Harefoot, who was crowned and died in Oxford.

The inhabitants having refused to open their gates to William the Conqueror, he obtained entrance by force, and levied a heavy tax on the townsmen as a punishment for their resistance; and the better to restrain their rebellious spirit, he built and fortified a strong castle on the west side of the town, near the river.

The successors of the Conqueror frequently made Oxford the place of their residence, and several of them were munificent patrons of its schools. In the contest between King Stephen and the Empress Maud, the latter, having taken shelter in the castle, was besieged in it by the king in person, and only escaped by stratagem the day before it surrendered.

In 1177, the princes and chief lords of Wales did homage here for their territories and estates to Henry II. This monarch resided, during a great part of his reign, in the palace of Beaumont, which was built in the north suburbs by Henry I. In this palace Richard Coeur-de-Lion was born; and here King John passed many of his troubled hours. Richard I. was a great promoter of learning, and gave especial encouragement to Oxford, which was the place of his birth. Many new halls or schools were established under his patronage, and by means of funds furnished from his private exchequer. To such a pitch had he raised the reputation of Oxford, that in the succeeding reign its schools were attended by not less than three thousand students; but in the year 1209 this prosperity was sadly overcast, and the town, as a seat of education, threatened with total destruction. A student, whilst engaged in some manual exercise, accidentally killed a woman belonging to the town, and, being alarmed for the consequences, took to flight. The mayor and burgesses surrounded the hall to which the supposed murderer belonged, and demanded that he should be delivered up. They were informed that the accused student had fled; but this answer by no means appeased the clamours of the multitude, who seized three students, entirely unconnected with the affair, and hanged them without trial or inquiry. The teachers and scholars, justly enraged at this barbarous outrage, unanimously quitted Oxford, and betook themselves to Cambridge and other places; and they did not return till the humbled inhabitants had repeatedly applied for pardon, and expressed the deepest contrition for their conduct.

In the reign of Henry VIII. Oxford was elevated to the rank of a city, and that of a bishop's see; and it was at Oxford that Archbishop Cranmer, and Bishops Ridley and Latimer, were executed as heretics, by order of Queen Mary, in October 1555.

In the year 1577, the plague raged with dreadful mortality in the town. During the trial of a popish bookseller, accused of circulating mischievous pamphlets, nearly all the persons present were suddenly seized with sickness; and within forty hours upwards of three hundred died, amongst whom were the chief baron, the high sheriff, several justices of the peace, and most of the jurors. When the plague broke out in London, King James withdrew this city for safety; but the dreadful scourge visited Oxford not long afterwards, and made such awful devastation that the scholars fled from the University, and the citizens shut up their shops; and not a living creature, besides nurses and corpse-bearers, was to be seen in the streets, which were covered with grass, even in the market-place.

During the struggles between Charles I. and his parliament, the king, in consequence of the disaffection of the citizens of London, removed his court to Oxford; being well assured of the loyalty of the townsmen, and the inviolable allegiance of the university. The melancholy winter of the year 1646 was spent by the unfortunate monarch within the walls of Christ-Church; where he assembled a parliament of his diminished and disheartened adherents, and where he wrote his memorable letter to Lord Digby, in which he declared, "if I cannot live as a king, I will die as a gentleman." Though the city was strongly fortified, and considered as a post of great importance by both parties, it never happened, during the war, to be the scene of any great military transaction; but the negotiations for peace between Charles and the republican party were chiefly carried on at Oxford.

The last parliament which met in this city was convened by Charles II. in 1681, and lasted only seven days. The party spirit and turbulence displayed, not only by the populace, but by the representatives, compelled the king to order its premature dissolution, to prevent the passing of a bill for banishing and excluding from the throne his brother, the Duke of York, afterwards James II.

Oxford has the transcendent glory of being the cradle of the Reformation. Wickliffe, whose name will be venerated by all who value the truths of Christianity, and the progress of the human mind, was warden of Canterbury College; and it was here that he read those lectures on divinity which shook to its foundation that spiritual despotism which held Europe in thraldom, and here he first inculcated those truths which form the basis of religious liberty.

The University contains twenty colleges and five halls. Merton College, the oldest in point of legal establishment, was founded by Walter de Merton, bishop of Rochester, who established it by charter, dated 7th January 1264. It consists of three courts. The chapel, which is situated at the west end of the outer court, is a fine specimen of old English architecture. The tower and gate of the outer court were constructed in the early part of the fifteenth century; and the whole of the other part was rebuilt in 1589. The second, or large inner court, exhibits a mixed style of architecture; the third, or small court, is the oldest, and is supposed to have been built at the same time with the library, which forms its south and west sides. This is the oldest library in the University, and possesses many valuable manuscripts and early printed books. In the hall of this college Queen Elizabeth was entertained at dinner on her visit to the University in 1592.

University College is said to have owed its origin to King Alfred; but it is ascertained that it was founded by the University, with funds left by William of Durham, in 1249. It stands on the south side of the High Street, and consists of two quadrangular courts, which were built at various times between the years 1634 and 1675.

Baliol College was projected by John de Baliol, father of the unfortunate king of Scotland, in 1263; but, in consequence of his sudden death, it was only founded in 1282, by his widow, Dervorguilla. The architecture is very irregular; none of the present buildings are of earlier date than the fifteenth, and the east and south-east sides were rebuilt in the beginning of the eighteenth century. The court of the quadrangle is one hundred and twenty feet by eighty; there is also belonging to the college an area on the north-west, containing lodgings for the students, and a new building fronting the street one hundred and eight feet in length.

Exeter College was founded in 1315, by Walter de Stapleton, bishop of Exeter. It has been built at various times, and forms one extensive quadrangle, nearly a hundred and thirty-five feet square. The architecture of this College is of an uniform and simple character. The whole of the west front has recently been renewed with Bath stone, and a handsome new building erected, facing Broad Street.

Oriel College was founded in 1326, by Adam de Brom; and shortly after was taken under the protection of Edward II. It consists of a quadrangular range of buildings, with two ranges on the east and west sides of the garden, between which is the library, an elegant modern building, from a design by Wyatt.

Queen's College was founded by Robert de Eglesfield, and obtained a charter from Edward III., dated the 18th January 1340. The present buildings are of modern erection; they consist of two courts, divided by the hall and chapel, in an oblong form, three hundred feet in length by two hundred and twenty in breadth. The library, which contains about 18,000 volumes, is a magnificent room, a hundred and twenty-three feet by thirty.

New College. The foundation-stone of this college was laid by William of Wykeham, for his scholars of Winchester College, in the year 1380; but the buildings were not completed till 1386. As originally projected by the founder, they consist of a spacious quadrangle, including the chapel, hall, and library. A range of cloisters, extending a hundred and forty-six feet by a hundred and five, with the area within, were consecrated in 1400, as a burial-place for the college. The chapel is one of the finest buildings in the University, and is exceedingly beautiful and chaste in its interior decorations.

Lincoln College was founded by Richard Fleming, bishop of Lincoln, in 1427, and completed by Bishop Rotherham. The chief buildings compose two quadrangular courts. The larger, which contains the library and hall, was built soon after the founder's death; but the smaller, in which is situated the chapel, whose old painted glass windows are the finest in Oxford, was not built till two centuries afterwards.

All-Souls College was founded in 1437, by Archbishop Chicel. It consists of two spacious courts, the one opening into the High Street, and the other into the court where the Radcliffe Library is situated. The latter quadrangle, which was erected in the beginning of last century, is a hundred and seventy-two feet in length by a hundred and fifty-five in breadth; the buildings are in the mixed Gothic style of architecture, and very handsome. On the south side is a beautiful chapel, with an altarpiece by Raphael Mengs. The library, which is on the south side, is a hundred and ninety-eight feet in length by thirty-two and a quarter in breadth, and forty feet in height, and contains above 110,000 volumes.

Magdalene College was founded by William of Waynflete, bishop of Winchester, under a license dated the 18th July 1457. It is situated on the east side of the city, near the Cherwell, and is one of the finest ranges of buildings in the University. On the side fronting the High Street there is a finely-proportioned tower, a hundred and forty-five feet in height. The chapel is a beautiful Gothic structure, which has recently been restored, in good taste. Magdalene College being bound by its statute to entertain the kings of England and their sons when at Oxford, it has frequently been the scene of royal festivity. Edward IV. and Richard III. were both entertained here by the founder. Prince Arthur paid a visit to this college in 1496; and in 1605 James I. held his court within its walls, on which occasion Henry prince of Wales was admitted a member of the society. In 1649, Oliver Cromwell, Fairfax, and other officers of the parliamentary army, had a sumptuous dinner provided for them here, and afterwards played at bowls in the college green.

Brazen-Nose College was founded by William Smyth, bishop of Lincoln, in concert with his friend Sir Richard Sutton. The buildings were begun in 1569, and occupied the site of several halls, amongst which was Brazen-Nose Hall, whence the new foundation derived its name. It consists of an extensive quadrangle, a smaller court on the south, a range of buildings called the New Buildings, and the principal's lodgings. The front of this college forms the west side of Radcliffe Square.

Corpus Christi College was founded and endowed in the year 1516, by Richard Fox, bishop of Winchester. The building, which stands to the east of Christ-Church, originally consisted of one large quadrangle, with a chapel, hall, and library; but various additions have since been made. The altar-piece in the chapel is the Nativity by Rubens. The library contains some curious printed books and manuscripts.

Christ-Church College is indebted for its origin to the munificence of Cardinal Wolsey, who commenced it in 1524, under the designation of Cardinal College, upon a scale of magnificence far surpassing that of any of the other founders; but upon his disgrace Henry VIII. seized the revenues. In 1532 Henry was induced to grant the college a charter, and directed that it should be called King Henry VIII.'s College; but about twelve or thirteen years afterwards Henry converted the college into a cathedral church, translating to Oxford the episcopal see of Oseney; and thus it became an ecclesiastical endowment, with a foundation for children annexed to it. Besides the cathedral, the buildings consist of two spacious quadrangles, with two smaller courts; and in the tower, which rises from the gateway in the centre of the principal front, is suspended the bell called "Great Tom." The cathedral is supposed to have been completed about 1180, but parts of it are of much earlier date. The hall built by Wolsey, with its roof of richly carved oak, ornamented with the armorial bearings of Wolsey and Henry VIII., is a fine specimen of his magnificent taste.

Trinity College was founded in 1554, by Sir Thomas Pope, who purchased for this purpose the extensive buildings of Durham College. This college formerly consisted chiefly of a low quadrangle, with hall, library, and chapel. In 1664, extensive additions were made, and soon afterwards a new court of three sides was built by Sir Christopher Wren.

St John's College was founded and endowed in 1557, by Sir Thomas White, a citizen and merchant of London. It consists of two quadrangles, and has in front a wide terrace and a row of lofty elms. The inner court was built in 1635, from a design by Inigo Jones.

Jesus College owes its foundation to Dr Hugh ap Rice, or Price. Queen Elizabeth instituted the establishment by charter, dated the 27th June 1571; but though nominally foundress, she bestowed little patronage, and still less property, on the college, the funds having been supplied by Dr Price and the munificence of other individuals. The buildings form two quadrangles, the first measuring ninety feet by seventy, and the second a hundred by ninety. The front towards the street was rebuilt in 1756. Wadham College was projected by Nicholas Wadham; but dying before his plan could be put in execution, his widow founded it in 1613. It consists of one quadrangle about a hundred and thirty feet square. The hall is one of the largest in the University. The Royal Society originated in this college, and its meetings were held in a room over the gateway, from 1652 to 1659.

Pembroke College. Though in the charter, which is dated 1634, King James is called founder, and the Earl of Pembroke the chancellor of the University, yet they contributed little or nothing towards the establishment of this college; the real founders were Thomas Tesdale and Richard Wightwick. It consists of a small neat quadrangle; and the chapel attached to it, which was erected in 1728, is an elegant building of the Ionic order.

Worcester College was founded in 1714, under the will of Sir Thomas Cooks. It is situated upon the western side of the city, near the banks of the Isis. It consists of a range of buildings, having the library, hall, and chapel in the centre, an elegant line of new buildings on the north, and the old buildings on the south side.

Hertford College, anciently Hart Hall, was elevated to the rank of an independent college in the year 1740; but since 1805 no principal could be elected, owing to the nature of the statutes. It has now ceased to exist as a college. The site is occupied, under an act of parliament passed in 1816, by St Mary Magdalene Hall.

The halls were originally the private property of inhabitants of the town, who let them for the use of the students; but after the endowment of colleges, the halls gradually fell into disuse. Five, however, still remain, and the students who belong to them wear the same dress, and have the same university privileges, as the other students; but the halls have no fellowships or scholarships, and whatever property they possess is held in trust by the University. The names of the halls are St Mary's, Magdalene, New Inn, St Alban's, and St Edmund's. There is nothing in their architecture worthy of remark.

The Bodleian, or Public Library, was founded by Sir Thomas Bodley, at the close of the sixteenth century, on the remains of that which was originally established by the Duke of Gloucester. The erection of the present building was begun in 1610. The principal room is in the form of the letter H. The Bodleian is one of the five libraries which, according to act of parliament, receives a copy of every newly-published book. The continual accessions which it has received have rendered it one of the best libraries in Europe. The library is open between Ladyday and Michaelmas from nine in the morning till four in the afternoon, and between Michaelmas and Ladyday from ten in the morning till three in the afternoon. No book can be taken out of the library; and from the liberal nature of the regulations, it is of little use, even to the resident members of the University. The Arundel Marbles are placed in an apartment on the north side of the schools.

The Radcliffe Library is one of the most imposing architectural ornaments of the University. It was founded by Dr Radcliffe, who bequeathed L40,000 for its erection; and the building was executed by Gibbs between the years 1737 and 1749.

The Clarendon Printing-house was erected in 1711, from the profits arising out of the sale of Lord Clarendon's History of the Rebellion, the copyright of which was presented to the university by his lordship's son. It is a massive structure, two stories high. The business of printing for the university was carried on in this building till 1830, when it was removed to the present printing-house, which was commenced in 1826, and ready for use in the following year.

The Theatre was built by Gilbert Sheldon, archbishop of Canterbury, and chancellor of the University in 1669, on the plan of the Theatre of Marcellus at Rome; and the architect was Sir Christopher Wren. It is used for public meetings, for the recital of prize compositions, and occasionally for conferring degrees.

A museum was founded in 1682, by Elias Ashmole. At the extremity of the northern suburbs stands the Observatory; and at the entrance of the city by the London road are the Physic Gardens, which were commenced in 1622 by the Earl of Derby.

When Henry VIII. elevated Oxford to the rank of a bishop's see, he converted the ancient church of St Frideswide into the cathedral. It is built in the form of a cross, with a spire in the middle; and the tower contains ten bells, which formerly belonged to Osney Abbey. The length of the chapel from east to west is a hundred and fifty-four feet. The nave was originally almost double its present length, but was in part taken down by Cardinal Wolsey, to make room for the dwellings of the canons. The length of the transept from north to south is a hundred and two feet. The height of the western part is forty-one feet, and of the choir thirty-seven feet. This building contains monuments of great antiquity. Most of the windows were destroyed in 1651; those that remain, with others since executed, display some historical scenes connected with sacred subjects. It has of late years been thoroughly repaired, and has recently been adorned by a fine statue of Dr Cyril Jackson, long president of the college. It was executed by Chantrey, and is universally allowed to be an admirable likeness.

In noticing the parochial churches of the city, the first to be mentioned is that of St Mary, which, though the public service is partly conducted under the direction of the University, and it is hence called the University Church, does in fact belong to the vicar and the inhabitants of the parish. It is a spacious Gothic structure, finished in the year 1498. The lofty spire, a hundred and eighty feet in height, is a conspicuous object, and the tower contains six large and well-toned bells. In 1828 it was repaired and very highly finished, but in harmony with the original plan.

There are thirteen other parish churches. St Peter's-in-the-East is an interesting edifice, of a very ancient date; and is supposed to have been originally built by St Grymbald, under the patronage of Alfred. St Michael's is of equal dimensions with St Mary Magdalene's, and is said to have belonged to the canons of St Frideswide, before the Norman conquest. The windows are large and pointed. St Martin's, or, as it is more commonly called, Carfax, is the church of the city, at which the mayor and corporation attend divine service. It has been rebuilt within the last fifteen years, upon the site of a structure of great antiquity, and much enlarged. St Peter's-in-the-Bailey, at the west end of the city, was opened for divine service in 1740, and a gallery added to it thirteen years after, at the expense of an individual named Flexney. It is seventy feet in length and thirty-eight in breadth, with a tower containing only two bells. St Aldate's, of great antiquity, is said to have been founded or restored in 1004. It is a venerable pile, consisting of a nave, two aisles, and a chancel, and is about a hundred feet in length. St Ebbe's is a plain, modern church, built in 1817. The church of St Mary Magdalene is a neat stone edifice, eighty-eight feet in length, said to have been founded in 1194, and is remarkable for three uniform pointed windows in a chantry chapel within it, and a parapet of open trefoil work of great beauty. St Giles is an edifice venerable from its age, being furnished with numerous lancet-shaped windows. It is a solid and capacious building; though not sufficiently so for the population of the parish, which has rapidly increased. Holywell Church, so named from a well of great sanctity in ancient times, and near to it, is a small building, with a tower said to have been built in 1464; but the church itself is much more ancient. It has an embattled tower, containing six bells. St Clement's, in the eastern suburb, is a handsome edifice, lately enlarged, owing to the great increase of inhabitants. St Thomas's Church, at the western extremity of the city, was founded by the canons of Osney in 1141. It is about a hundred feet in length, and has lately been much improved. The church or chapel of St John is also the chapel of Merton College; but the parishioners have a part of the north side allotted to them as the place of sepulture, the chaplain of the college reading the burial service. There is also the church of All Saints, in the High Street. Besides these parish churches, there are four places of worship for Protestant dissenters and Wesleyans, and a small but neat chapel for the Roman Catholics. The population amounted in 1801 to 10,534, in 1811 to 11,916, in 1821 to 14,901, in 1831 to 18,436, and in 1833 to 20,411. This does not include those persons resident in the several public buildings comprehended in the University, or in the House of Industry, or the Radcliffe Infirmary. The census is taken at a period of the year when the colleges are not at the fullest, and the absent students, fellows, and professors, are consequently included in the enumerations of other districts. The whole number residing in the university amounted in 1801 to 1171, in 1811 to 1015, in 1821 to 1463, and in 1831 to 1634. The residents in the House of Industry were 219, and those in the Radcliffe Infirmary 145; thus making the whole population at the census of 1831 to be 22,186. The system of education taught in the colleges will be treated of under the article Universities.