or SHIRBAZ, a large city of Persia, the capital of the province of Fars, and, at different periods, of the whole kingdom. According to Fraser, the city of Shiraz is situated in the midst of a brown, barren plain, without a village, or any living thing, to relieve it. There were, when he visited the place, only one or two gardens on the wide expanse, which resembled black spots in the desert. He adds, that a nearer view does not present any more favourable ruins and broken ground, impressing the most gloomy ideas. Kinneir, on the other hand, gives a different account of its appearance, which, he says, is pleasing rather than grand, the city being surrounded with many beautiful gardens. The season of the year when Shiraz was visited by the former traveller seems, however, to have been unfavourable for the display of vegetable beauty; and he accordingly observes, that at this time the richer and irrigated spots were burnt up; and to this circumstance may be traced the discrepancy in the accounts of these two writers. All travellers, however, agree in their account of the interior of the city, which has an extremely mean appearance; the houses are small, and the streets narrow and filthy. Every thing within the town marks the total neglect of even the attempt at improvement. The bazaars and maidans or colleges are falling into ruins; the streets are choked with dirt, and with heaps of ruins from decaying houses; their inmates squallid and insolent, crawling forth in a state of rags and wretchedness, which Sir R. Porter says, no pen can describe. The impure state of the water brought into the city affords one among many gross instances of public neglect, more especially considering the abundant supply of this pure element with which the city was furnished in ancient times, and the facility with which the spring at the tomb of Sadi, or the limpid rills of the Rocknabad, might again be introduced and distributed for the supply of the city. The town has six gates, and is divided into twelve districts or parishes, in which there are fifteen considerable mosques, besides many others of inferior note, eleven colleges, fourteen bazaars, thirteen caravanserais, and twenty-six mummumus or baths.
Of the mosques, the Mesjed Ali, built in the khalifat of Abbas, is the most ancient, and the Mesjed No the largest. It was converted from a palace to a mosque by Attabek Shahi, whose son was lying in a dangerous illness, and who, consulting one of the priests, was answered, that for the recovery of his son he must devote to the Almighty that which of all his worldly goods he valued most. The Mesjed Jumeh is likewise an ancient structure; and there are six others of an older date than the time of Kerim Khan. Of the modern mosques the Mesjed Vakeel, the only one built by this prince, is the most beautiful. Of the colleges, one of the earliest was founded by Imaum Kouli Khan. Kerim Khan began a college which he never finished; and another was founded by Haushem, father of Hajee Ibrahim, the vizir of the late king. The great bazaar, or market-place, was built by Kerim Khan, and forms a contrast to the mean appearance of the other parts of the city. It is about a quarter of a mile in length, made of yellow burnt brick, and arched at the top, with numerous sky-lights, which, with its doors and windows, always admit of sufficient light and air, whilst the sun and the rain are completely excluded. The bazaar is allotted to the different traders in the city, all of whom have their separate quarter, in which their shops are extended adjacent to each other on both sides of the building.
Of the caravanserais, the one built by Imaum Kouli Khan, and now in ruins, is the most ancient. There is another old structure, which was restored from a state of great decay, and assumed the name of its second founder, Ali Khan. There are five others; one for the dressers of sheep-skins for caps, another for dyers, and one for Hindoos. Three other caravanserais were added by Kerim Khan, and two others have been since erected. The ark or citadel, in which the governor of Fars resides, is a fortified square of eighty yards. The royal palace within is far from being an elegant structure; and some of its finest ornamental pillars were removed by Aga Mahommmed Khan to adorn his palace at Teheran.
The environs of Shiraz, in its ancient splendour, have furnished a theme for poets, and have been celebrated by Hafiz, the favourite bard of Persia, who was a native of this city, and who is buried in a small garden about half a mile from the town. A monument was erected to his memory by Kerim Khan; it is placed in the court of a pleasure-house which was much frequented by the poet; the building has a small court before it and another behind, and in the centre is an open vestibule, supported by four marble columns, opening on each side into neat apartments. The tomb is placed in the back court, at the foot of one of the cypress trees which he planted with his own hands. It consists of a block of white marble in the form of a coffin, exquisitely carved. One of the poet's odes is inscribed on the marble, and the letters appear as if they had been sculptured with the finest pen, rather than carved with a chisel. Sir R. K. Porter, who visited this tomb ten years after Morier, gives a melancholy account of the decay which has taken place in the interval, from neglect: the spot is no longer held sacred, being covered with promiscuous graves; the trees are gone, and the stone itself, already defaced, will not, unless it be secured from profane hands, long remain the memorial of departed genius. The population of Shiraz has been variously estimated at from 40,000 to 10,000. M. Morier, who was at some pains to make an accurate estimate, says 19,000. The commerce of the city is of some extent, and has been increasing of late years. The principal trade is with Bushire, through whose ports is brought into the country a supply of foreign produce and manufactures, such as sugar, pepper, cinnamon, chintz, glass, hardware, piece-goods, &c. These articles are exported to Yezd and Isfahan, and the manufactures of these cities received in return. The prosperity of Shiraz decayed after the death of Kerim Khan; its commerce was diverted into other channels, and its numerous manufactures perished for want of purchasers. Two, however, have survived, and are prosecuted with diligence and success; one is making glass for windows, bottles, and goblets, which are sold all over the kingdom; the second is the formation of sword-blades and daggers, which are deemed excellent for general use. In the hills which bound the plain of Shiraz, was formerly produced a wine which is celebrated over all the east. Long. 52. 44. E. Lat. 29. 36. N.