a maritime county in the northern extremity of Ireland, in the province of Ulster, situate between 54.26. and 55.12.16. N. Lat. and 5.47. and 6.52. W. Long. It comprises, according to the Ordnance survey, an area of 745,177 acres or 1164 square miles, of which 503,288 are arable, 176,335 uncultivated, 10,358 in plantations, 1908 in towns, and, including a portion of Lough Neagh, 53,288 under water. In addition to the above, the county with the town of Carrickfergus contains 16,700 acres, or 26 square miles; of which 12,483 are arable, 4088 uncultivated, and 129 in the town, making the total area of the county 761,877. Antrim presents a considerable line of coast to the northern Ocean, by which it is bounded on the north, and the Irish Channel, which forms its eastern boundary; Carrickfergus Bay, or Belfast Lough, and the River Lagan, divide it from the county of Down. The winding shores of Lough Neagh and Lough Beg, together with the River Bann, form its boundaries on the west until the River Bann touches the liberties of Coleraine, which then complete the western boundary. In superficial extent Antrim is exceeded by eight other counties in Ireland, but the extensive county of Cork alone supports a more numerous population.
In 1584-5, the county was divided by the lord-deputy, Sir John Perrot, into eight baronies; but of late years, by the subdivision of six of the old baronies into upper and lower, it has been divided into fourteen baronies, viz., Antrim, Lower and Upper; Bellfast, Lower and Upper; Cary Dunluce, Lower and Upper; Glenarm, Lower and Upper; Kilconway, Massareene, Lower and Upper; Toome, Lower and Upper. There are also smaller divisions, as parishes, granges, manors, and townlands. The number of parishes, and parts of parishes, is 75, all of which are in the diocese of Connor, except the parish of Aghalee, in the barony of Upper Massareene, which is in Dromore diocese. There are seven poor-law unions in the county,—Antrim, Ballycastle, Ballymena, Ballymoney (partly in Londonderry county), Lisburn (partly in Down county), and Larne. There is a revenue police-station at Ballymoney, and 21 const-guard stations, with 145 officers and men. The headquarters of the constabulary force, which consists of 229 officers and men, are at Ballymena, the county being divided into six districts. Antrim is in the Belfast military district, the headquarters of which, and also of the county militia, are at Bellfast. The fishery districts are Ballycastle and Carrickfergus, comprising 121 miles of maritime boundaries, which in 1852 had 764 registered vessels, employing 2468 men and boys. The amount of property valued under the Act 6th and 7th Will. IV., cap. 84 (Griffith's valuation), was £479,934, and the net annual value of property rated to the poor is £702,917. The county sends six members to the imperial parliament, two for the shire,—constituency, in 1851, under 13th and 14th Vict., c. 69, 8207; two for Belfast borough,—constituency 2697; and one for each of the boroughs of Carrickfergus and Lisburn, constituencies, 720 and 188.
The assizes, formerly held at Carrickfergus, are now held at Bellfast, which has recently been proclaimed the county town. Quarter-sessions are held at Antrim, Ballymena, Ballymoney, Bellfast, and Carrickfergus. There are three savings-banks in the county, Belfast, Gracehill, and Lisburn, Antrim, the deposits in which amounted in 1851 to L.116,424, a sum exceeding that deposited in the savings-bank of any other county in Ireland except Cork. The principal towns are—Belfast, population in 1851, 100,300; Carrickfergus, 3543; Antrim, 2324; Ballymena, 6136; Larne, 3076; and Lisburn, 6569.
The earliest known inhabitants were of Celtic origin, and the names of the townlands or subdivision, supposed to have been made in the thirteenth century, are pure Celtic. In addition to the intrusion of the Danish marauders, who infested all the eastern part of Ireland, Antrim was exposed to the inroads of the northern Scots, who ultimately effected permanent settlements here. The antiquities of the county consist of cairns, mounts, or forts, remains of ecclesiastical and military structures, and round towers. The principal cairns are—one on Colin mountain, near Lisburn; one on Slieve Truc, near Carrickfergus; and two on Colinward. The cromlechs most worthy of notice are one near Cairngramney, to the north-east of the old road from Belfast to Templepatrick; the large cromlech at Mount Druid, near Ballintoy; and one at the northern extremity of Ireland, Magree. The mounts, forts, and intrenchments, are very numerous. There are four round towers in the county; one at Antrim 95 feet high (of which part only is standing), in the churchyard of Armoy, about four miles from Ballycastle; one on Ram island in Lough Neagh 43 feet high, a portion of which has evidently fallen; and the fragment of one between Lisburn and Moira, near the old church of Trummary. Of the ecclesiastical establishments enumerated by Archdall, there are some remains of those of Bonamargy, Kells, Glenarm, Glynn, Muckanore, and White Abbey. The noble castle of Carrickfergus, together with some additions, is the only one in perfect preservation. There are, however, remains of other ancient castles, of which the most interesting is the old castle of Dunluce, remarkable for its great extent and romantic situation.
A large proportion of the surface of the county consists of mountains and bogs. The mountains, occupying about one-third of the area of the county, stretch from south to north, terminating on the northern shore in abrupt and almost perpendicular declivities; they attain their greatest elevation near the coast, having a gradual descent inland, so that many of the principal streams have their source near the sea and flow thence into Lough Neagh. The eastern portion of the county is mountainous, nearly destitute of wood and abounding in bogs, which, from their situation appear irreclaimable; this character also, in some measure, applies to the northern portion, and it is computed that about 120,000 acres are incapable of improvement. On the western side of the mountain range, the valleys expand to a considerable width and are of great fertility, especially that of Six-mile-water, stretching towards the town of Antrim and the beautifully undulating surface of the valley of the Lagan. As it approaches the River Bann, the inclination of the mountainous region becomes less rapid, and is occupied by turf bogs susceptible of improvement. In the southern part of the barony of Toome, and along the shores of Lough Neagh, lies the most extensive level tract of well cultivated and fertile land within the county. From Belfast to Carrickfergus, and from thence to Larne between the mountain range and the sea, are tracts of very fertile land. The most remarkable ranges of cliffs are those of perpendicular basaltic columns (see Giant's Causeway), which extend for many miles along the northern shore, and are most strikingly displayed in Fair Head and the Giant's Causeway.
Lough Neagh, the largest lake in the United Kingdom, and, excepting Lake Ladoga, Lake Vener, and the Lake of Geneva, the most extensive in Europe, is principally in the county of Antrim. It is about 20 miles in length, 12 in breadth, and 80 miles in circumference, comprising 98,255 statute acres, of which 50,025 are in Antrim, and the remainder in the counties of Armagh, Down, and Londonderry. Its greatest depth is 45 feet; and, according to the Ordnance survey, it is 48 feet above the level of the sea at low water. The lower River Bann, which is obstructed by weirs and rocks, being the only outlet for the waters of the lake, the surrounding country is injuriously inundated in winter. The waters of Lough Neagh are supposed to possess petrifying powers, but it is probable that these exist in the soil, as petrifications are only found in the lake near the shore, and are also found at considerable heights inland. It is connected with Belfast, Newry, and Coal Island by means of canals. North of Lough Neagh, and connected with it by a narrow channel, is Lough Beg or "the small lake," containing 3145 acres, partly in the county of Antrim. This lake is generally 15 feet lower than Lough Neagh, and contains 4 small islands, one of which, Ram Island, belongs to Antrim. Its banks are more diversified and pleasing than those of Lough Neagh, which, owing to the want of wood, are monotonous.
The Rivers Bann and Lagan, both of which rise in the county of Down and form the southern and western boundaries of the county of Antrim, are the only rivers of importance. The rivers strictly belonging to the county, none of which are navigable, mostly rise in the mountains near the coast, and run into Lough Neagh. They are generally rapid streams, peculiarly valuable as furnishing water-power for turning the numerous corn, flour, and cotton mills established on their banks. Surrounded by a wild and troubled sea, about 7 miles from the northern coast off Ballycastle, lies the Island of Rathlin, 6½ miles in length and 1½ in breadth, of similar basaltic and limestone formation with the mainland in that district. It contains 3399 acres, one-fourth of which is arable, and in 1851 was inhabited by 783 persons, inhabiting 130 dwellings. On the northern coast of the island are some vestiges of a castle, said to have afforded refuge in 1306 to Robert Bruce, who, according to the legend, learned in this place a lesson of indomitable perseverance under difficulties, whilst observing the continued exertions of a spider in the construction of its web.
The county of Antrim is of exceeding interest to the geologist, both on account of its peculiar character, and because the arrangement and alternations of strata are so openly disclosed as to enable the geologist to observe the secrets of nature more closely than can be done elsewhere. The peculiarities of the county are the basaltic pillars, the whirlpikes, stupendous walls which cut through the precipices, and without much intermission, line the coast for a length of nearly sixty Irish miles, the basaltic hummocks, generally stratified, scattered over the face of the county, and of various magnitudes, from the gigantic mountain to the most diminutive hillock.
Besides basalt, there are found limestone, gypsum, coal, surturbrand or fossil wood, freestone, and marble. Chalk is not met with in any other part of Ireland. The fossil wood, or wood-coal, in most places, as at Ballintoy and Killymorris, is covered with columns of basalt. In burning it emits a disagreeable smell, resembling that of rotten wood. Notwithstanding the compressed state in which it is found, the bark and knots are quite distinct, and the rings denoting the annual growth of the wood may be counted. In some instances the roots of the trees may be traced. Their heads all lie to the east, and seem as if laid down by a storm. The Antrim coal district is situated in the northern extremity of the county; and in point of geological position, is remarkable from its association with the great basaltic mass which forms the characteristic of the neighbouring scenery, and differs from all the other coal districts in Ireland, as wanting The district extends to the west and south of the magnificent promontory of Fair Head, from Ballycastle to Murlough Bay. The workings at the Ballycastle collieries are probably the oldest in the kingdom. Dr Hamilton, in his letters on the north coast of the county of Antrim, relates that, in 1770, the miners accidentally discovered a passage cut through the rock. It was very narrow, owing to incrustations formed on its sides. On being sufficiently widened, some workmen went through it, and on minute examination this subterranean wonder was found to be a complete gallery which had been driven forward many hundred yards into the bed of coal, branching out into thirty-six chambers, dressed quite square, and in a workmanlike manner. Some remains of the tools, and even of the baskets used in the work were discovered, but in such a decayed state, that on being touched they fell to pieces. No tradition remaining in the neighbourhood of the mine having been anciently worked, the excavation must have been made at a very remote period.
The coal of some of the beds is bituminous, and of others anthracitic, but the quantity now remaining in the district is very small. Petrifications are found in Lough Neagh, and valuable homes are made of the petrified wood. In the white sand on the shores of the lake are found very hard and beautiful stones, chiefly chalcedony, known by the name of Lough Neagh pebbles, susceptible of a fine polish, and often converted into seals and necklaces.
Besides the fish usually found in fresh-water lakes, the char, a species of trout called dollagher, and the pullan, or fresh-water herring, are found in Lough Neagh, and swans, teals, widgeons, herons, bitterns, and several other kinds of birds frequent its shores.
The mineral waters of the county are in the neighbourhood of Antrim, Ballycastle, Belfast, Carrickfergus, and Larne, and may be generally described as chalybeates of various degrees of strength. No thermal springs have yet been discovered; a circumstance the more remarkable, as it is in the vicinity of basaltic or volcanic rocks that thermal waters are most frequently met with. There are thick beds of rock-salt and salt-springs near Carrickfergus. The chief bathing-places are Ballycastle, Cushendun, Cushendun, Glenarm, Port Ballintrae and Portrush. They are exposed to the easterly winds prevalent in spring, but are desirable summer residences. There is much variety of scenery in the county from the low and somewhat monotonous shores of Lough Neagh and the dreary bog and mountain land of the interior, to the wild romantic scenery of the northern coast, and the fantastically beautiful shores about Glenarm. The climate of Antrim is very temperate, and less rain falls than is generally supposed. The rain gauge at Belfast has varied in different years from 20 to 35 inches. The greatest height of the barometer between the year 1796 and 1809 was 31 inches, the lowest 28 inches. The greatest height of the thermometer during that period was 78°80, the lowest 25°. The mean temperature of Belfast is about 50 degrees, or one degree higher than that of London. The phenomenon of the mirage, similar to the Fata Morgana, is often observed in the strait which separates the island of Rathlin from the mainland.
In 1712 the number of dwelling-houses in the county of Antrim was 19,268; in 1726, 18,916; in 1791 the number was 30,314, of which 22,353 paid the tax for one hearth, and the remainder were returned as inhabited by paupers unable to pay. According to the population returns, the county contained in 1813, 42,258 dwelling-houses and 231,548 inhabitants; in 1821, 270,883; in 1831, 325,615; in 1841, 354,153; and in 1851, 352,264, inhabiting 58,281 houses, being a decrease of 1889 persons, and 1084 houses since 1841.
The estates in Antrim are in general freehold, being either immediate grants from the crown, or held under those grants: the only exceptions are the properties held under the see of Connor. Some of the estates are very large. The Marquises of Hertford and Donegal, and the Antrim family, possess the fee of the greater part of the county. The estate of the first includes 11 parishes, containing nearly 80,000 English acres. The other chief proprietors are Lord O'Neill, Viscount Massereene, Captain Packenham, and Lord Templetown. The estate of the last is only leasehold under the Marquis of Donegal.
The farms in Antrim are usually small, but, as in other parts in Ireland, the number of small holdings has for several years been steadily on the decrease. In 1851 there were 395 holdings not exceeding 1 acre; 2443 above 1 and not exceeding 5 acres; 6996 between 5 and 15 acres; 7220 between 15 and 30 acres; and 5796 above 30 acres, making a total of 22,850 holdings, being 361 less than in the previous year.
The principal feature in the tillage system of a great part of the county is the potato fallow. The quantity of potato land is commonly regulated by the manure that can be collected: of late years the culture of potatoes has been much increased by the use of lime. After potatoes, wheat or oats are sown; if the latter, two or three crops are successively taken. When the ground is exhausted, potatoes are again planted, or the land is suffered to rest for a year or two, until it is covered with natural grass, in which state it is termed lea. The sowing of wheat is chiefly confined to the baronies of Belfast, Antrim, and Massereene.
Flax is also sown after potatoes, except in the lower or northern part of the county, and its cultivation is largely on the increase, although it still forms but a small proportion in the general crop. In 1847 the land in the county under the flax crop was 2516 acres, and in 1851, 11,912. The cultivation of wheat, oats, and barley is decreasing, whilst the culture of potatoes and other green crops, meadow and clover land and flax, increases annually. The export of flax from Belfast was in 1850, 1457 tons; in 1851, 4001 tons, and in 1852, 6258 tons, whilst the import of foreign flax has decreased owing to the greatly increased cultivation of flax in Ireland. The extent of land under crops in 1847 was 202,888 acres, and in 1851, 227,453 acres, being an increase of 12 per cent. in four years. In 1851 the number of acres under the several species of crop was as follows:—wheat, 9938; oats, 98,594; barley, 1397; beans, 4614; potatoes, 41,013; turnips, 13,302; mangel-wurzel, and other green crops not previously enumerated 2806; flax, 11,912; meadow and clover, 52,272. The total produce of corn, beans, and pease in 1851 was 78,779 tons, being a decrease of 17,123 tons since 1847; and the number of barrels of potatoes grown in 1851 amounted to 1,746,510, being the largest quantity produced in any county in Ireland excepting the four counties of Cork, Down, Mayo, and Tipperary. The minute subdivision of the land somewhat retards the progress of improvement in agriculture and agricultural implements.
There is now but little natural wood in the county. The woods of Portmore and Glenarm have long since yielded to the axe; and the extensive plantings at Antrim, Templepatrick, Ballyclare, and Clementshill, have shared a similar fate. Many thriving plantations of trees have, however, been planted of late years near noblemen and gentlemen's seats, which already add much to the appearance of the face of the country. The plantations of Lord O'Neill at Shanescastle and Claggan, and those of the late Lord Macartney near Lochguile, are the most extensive. On the Hertford estate, near Lough Neagh, many orchards are planted.
The cattle of Antrim have no feature to distinguish them Antrim, as being allied to any particular stock. Of late years, considerable attention has been paid by gentlemen farmers to the improvement of the breed, by crossing with the Dutch, Leicester, and Ayrshire cattle, which is said to have improved much those kept for milk, and large quantities of butter are annually exported from Belfast. Sheep are little attended to, and are mostly of an inferior kind. Few goats are kept, and those chiefly by cottagers. Pigs are reared and kept in considerable numbers, and on these the small farmers and cotters depend chiefly to make up their rents; so that it is not uncommon to find from two to eight or ten of these animals about a farmer's house. During the salting season, which may be said to commence in September and end in May, the number brought to market is very large. In 1851, the live-stock in the county consisted of 27,673 horses, 450 mules and asses, 131,818 cattle, 42,361 sheep, 43,528 pigs, 1054 deer, 1609 goats, and 237,059 poultry, of the total value of £1,186,762.
Antrim has long been distinguished for its linen manufacture, which may still be considered the staple manufacture of the county. It is a peculiarity of this occupation that it does not remove the peasant from the comforts and healthiness of rural life. In Antrim the weaver and the labourer of the soil are united in the same person. Many weavers have small farms, and only employ themselves in weaving during the intervals of their farming occupations; and almost all who pursue this occupation possess gardens and ground for potatoes. Formerly the wages for weaving a fine web varied from 14s. to 20s., but the rate is now much less, and consequently many weavers have become day labourers. The price of linen yarn, which formerly sold at 10d. or 1s. per hank, is now much reduced. This is in a great measure owing to the spinning of flax by machinery, which of late years has much increased. In 1841 there were about 240,000 spindles in operation, and now upwards of 500,000 are employed. The quantity of linen yarn exported from Belfast in 1852 was 6,679,680 lb. in 5963 bales, being an increase of 1962 or 2,185,440 lb. over the quantity exported in 1850.
Cotton spinning by jennies was first introduced in 1777, by Robert Joy and Thomas McCabe of Belfast, under the direction of a female spinner from Glasgow, and in 1800 it was computed that upwards of 13,000 people were directly employed in the cotton manufacture, and including others indirectly employed, the number was estimated at 27,000, within a circuit of ten miles, comprehending the towns of Belfast, Lisburn, and Carrickfergus. For many years after the introduction of the trade, the greater part of the yarn used for warps, and much of the weft yarn, was imported from Manchester or Scotland, but of late years cotton yarn has been exported from Belfast. The cotton manufacture has not increased of late years in Antrim.
A great source of employment for females has latterly sprung up in the working of patterns on muslin with the needle. Belfast is the centre of this trade, but large numbers of females are employed in various parts of Ireland in the production of these sewed muslins, and the gross value of the goods, when manufactured, amounts to about £1,400,000. There are also extensive paper-mills in the county, and various manufactures in connection with the trade of the district. The exports are linen, linen yarn, all kinds of grain, pork, bacon, hams, beef, butter, eggs, lard, potatoes, soap, and candles.
There are extensive salmon-fisheries at Carrick-a-Rede, near Balintoy, along the coast north of Glenarm, and in the Rivers Bann and Bush. These fish frequent the other rivers of the county except the Lagan. All the rivers abound with eels, which are chiefly taken at weirs in the River Bann, where they are very plentiful.
Antrim has been supposed to contain a greater proportion of Protestants than any other county in Ireland; and of the Protestants a very great proportion are Presbyterians. The greater part of these are in connection with the general Synod of Ulster, the others are Remonstrants, who separated from the Synod in 1829—United Presbyterians, Covenanters, Independents; and at Gracehill, near Ballymena, there is a Moravian settlement. In several parishes, however, a decided majority are Roman Catholics.
The number of children attending schools in 1841 was, in rudimental schools, males 9737, females, 7743; in superior schools, males, 794, females, 448; total, 18,722. In 1851 there were 339 national schools in operation, attended by 28,763 children, 15,746 males, and 13,017 females. The educational establishments in Belfast are numerous and well conducted, including the Belfast Academy, the Royal Academical Institution, the Lancasterian or Ragged Schools, the National Schools, the Ulster Institution for the Deaf and Dumb and the Blind, the Educational and Industrial School, the Queen's College, and the Government School of Design.
The character of the people of Antrim reveals their Scottish origin. They have not the devotion to pleasure and sociability which is observable in other portions of the island, wanting in consequence some of the southern polish, but compensating in depth and solidity for any deficiency in superficial qualities.
town of Ireland, in the county of the same name, situated half a mile from Lough Neagh, on the banks of the Six-mile-water, in one of the most fertile and beautiful valleys of the county, 13 miles north-west of Belfast, and 106 north of Dublin. It gives the title of earl to the noble family of MacDonnell, and prior to the Union was a pot-walloping borough, returning two members to Parliament by virtue of letters patent, granted to the inhabitants in 1666, by Charles II. It was under the patronage of the Skeffington family.
Although much improved of late years, there is nothing in the town particularly worthy of notice; but the environs, including Shane's castle and the grounds of Massereene castle, possess considerable interest. About a mile from the town, surrounded by wood, above which rises its gray conical head, is one of the most perfect of the round towers of Ireland. It is 95 feet high, and 49 in circumference at the base. Markets are held each Tuesday and Thursday, and fairs on January 1, May 12, and November 12. In 1851 the town contained 504 dwelling-houses, and 2324 inhabitants. The manufacture of paper has been carried on here for many years, and there are flour and meal mills near the town. The Belfast and Ballymena railway passes a short distance from the north of the town. On the 7th of June 1798 a smart action was fought in the town between the king's troops and a large body of rebels, in which the latter were defeated. In this action Lord O'Neill was mortally wounded by a pike.
Antwerp (in French, Anvers), one of the provinces of the kingdom of Belgium, is bounded on the north by North Brabant, on the east by Limburg, on the south by South Brabant, and on the west by Zeeland and East Flanders. It contains 824 geographical square miles, or 283,311 hectares, equal to 770,924 English imperial acres, and is divided into 3 arrondissements, 22 cantons, and 146 communes. The province is an extensive plain scarcely diversified by an elevation. The arable land, which contains a great proportion of sand, is very fertile, but a considerable part of the country is morass and heath, particularly in the north and east. The population in the beginning of 1851 amounted to 420,556.