Home1860 Edition

ARRAN

Volume 3 · 1,408 words · 1860 Edition

an island on the west coast of Scotland, near the mouth of the river Clyde, which forms part of the county of Bute. It is about 20 miles in length, by 8 to 11 in breadth, and contains a superficial area of 165 square miles, or 105,814 acres, of which about 14,431 are cultivated. This island is of an extremely rugged and mountainous surface, particularly in the northern part, in which the valleys are deep and romantic. The principal mountain is Goatfell, which rises, according to accurate measurement, 2945 feet above the level of the sea, and is clothed with lichens and mosses. A few others approach to the same elevation. There are five small lakes and several streamlets in the island.

The quadrupeds are not numerous. A few red deer, the remains, it is said, of a numerous breed, still find shelter among the mountains; and wild goats are still harboured in those parts. The cattle and sheep, which were formerly small, have been improved by the introduction of a larger breed. The birds are, eagles, hooded crows, plovers, curlews, black cock, and other species of grouse, which are exceedingly numerous in the mountains. Ptarmigans, which were formerly seen, have now disappeared. Limestone, marl, and slate, are found in different parts, and there are also indications of coal; while in the mountains are found marble, jasper, agate, catrigrimas, and a fine species of rock-crystal called the Arran diamond. A considerable manufacture of sulphate of baryta as a pigment has been carried on in Glen Sannox for several years. The geology of the island is an epitome of that of Scotland. The mountains of the north, especially Goatfell, consist of granite, covered on the flanks by mica slate, a red sandstone conglomerate, especially on the eastern shores, and may be traced easily around the whole island. On the eastern side carboniferous lime is found at several points, chiefly at Corrie, where several strata divided by shale, lying on a white sandstone, are quarried. In the southern part of the island an extensive trap formation is the chief visible rocks. Several beds of anthracite were formerly worked on the north-west coast. This coal formation rested on the red sandstone, and was covered by white sandstone. Numerous veins of most beautiful pitchstones and silicified porphyry traverse the red sandstone, especially at Drimdoon, and between Brodick and Lamalsh. Shoals of herring frequent the shores, and the herring fishery is prosecuted to a great extent, no fewer than 200 fishing-vessels, well-manned and properly fitted out, and belonging to the island, being employed in it. Arran has two remarkably fine harbours, Lamalsh on the east, and Loch Ranza on the north-west side. Flax is cultivated in small quantities, and linens and some woollens are manufactured. About two-thirds of the island belong to the Duke of Hamilton, who takes much interest in its improvement, and has expended a considerable sum in making roads, bridges, and small harbours.

Brodick Castle, beautifully situated on an eminence surrounded by waving plantations, remained in ruins until the year 1845, when its noble proprietor, the Duke of Hamilton, completed, with great taste, its reconstruction on the model of the ancient fortress. At the time of the memorable interregnum when Edward I. was endeavouring to crush the spirited efforts of Wallace and Bruce for the independence of their country, it was taken and held by the English under Sir John Hastings. It did not, however, remain long in their possession; "for James, Lord Douglas, who accompanied Bruce to his retreat in Rachrin, seems in the spring of 1306 to have tired of his abode there, and set out accordingly, in the phrase of the times, to see what adventure God would send him. Sir Robert Boyd accompanied him; and his knowledge of the localities of Arran appears to have directed his course thither. They landed on the island privately, and appear to have laid an ambush for Sir John Hastings, the English Governor of Brodick, and surprised a considerable supply of arms and provisions, and nearly took the castle itself. When they were joined by Bruce, it seems probable that they had gained Brodick Castle. At least tradition says that from the battlements of the tower he saw the supposed signal fire on Turnberry moor." After the settlement of the Scottish crown by Bruce, the castle of Brodick, as well as the greater part of Arran, was the property of the High Steward of Scotland, who, by failure of male heirs to Bruce, succeeded to the throne under the title of Robert II. In 1455, it was stormed and levelled to the ground by the Earl of Ross, who had exposed the cause of the Earl of Douglas against his sovereign. Its next possessor was Sir Thomas Boyd, a court favourite, who married King James I.'s eldest sister, and received from that monarch the earldom of Arran as her marriage dowry. On the disgrace of the Boyds, Sir Thomas was divorced from his royal spouse, and the princess's hand, with her earldom of Arran, bestowed upon Lord Hamilton, in whose family, with the exception of a few interruptions, it has remained until this day.

Brodick Bay is a beautifully curved plain, girt with a beach of sand, and ornamented with neat cottages and villas, flourishing plantations, and cultivated fields, which, as they retire inwards, Arran Isles are met by the wildly-contrasting valleys of Glenrowan, Glensheraig, and Glenclay. In Glenclay are the remains of an ancient fort, which tradition points out as having afforded shelter to Bruce's partizans, who had arrived in Arran before himself; while Brodick Castle was in the possession of the English; and at the head of the glen there are also supposed remains of a Druidical circle.

About five miles from Brodick, in the middle of a beautiful semi-circular bay, lies the neat little village of Lamalsh. Sheltered by the Holy Island—an irregular cone 300 feet high—this bay forms an excellent harbour for the accommodation of ships of all sizes, while its surrounding scenery cannot be beheld without delight by all lovers of the picturesque.

The Holy Isle was once the site of an ancient cathedral, said to have been founded by St Mollos, a disciple of St Columba, who not considering the discipline of Iona sufficiently rigid, retired for greater seclusion to this lonely isle, whence he carried the light of Christianity among the pagan inhabitants of Arran.

Behind the village of Lamalsh are Glens Alaster and Moneadair, at the head of which may be seen the remains of an ancient sepulchral cairn, measuring 200 feet in circumference. It is believed to cover the ashes of those who fell in a battle fought upon the spot; as on removing some of the stones, several stone coffins were found buried underneath. At the southerly point of the bay, about three miles from Lamalsh, is King's-cross Point, whence Robert Bruce is said to have embarked for the coast of Carrick.

Near the basaltic promontory of Drimodrom, there are a number of water-worn caves, one of which, called the King's Cave, is famed for having been the residence of the patriot Bruce on his first arrival in the island. It is 114 feet long, 44 broad, and 47½ high. Some of the other caves are equally large; one is called the King's Kitchen; another his cellar; and a third his stable. The hill above the caves is called the King's Hill, from its connexion with Bruce. At the northern side of this hill, on the farm of Tormore, are the remains of a very perfect and interesting Druidical circle, called Suidhe choilir Phionn, or Fingal's Cauldron-seat.

Loch Ranaz is about a mile in length, and, during the fishing season, is a place of great resort, 300 boats sometimes lying at anchor in the bay at the same time. The ruins of Loch Ranaz Castle stand on a small peninsula near the entrance of the Loch. This castle is not heard of until the year 1596, when it is enumerated among the royal castles, as a hunting-seat of the Scottish sovereigns. The roof having fallen in, it is now fast falling into decay.

Off the south-east point of Arran lies the rocky islet of Pladda, with a lighthouse having two fixed lights, 130 and 77 feet above high-water, and visible 16 and 13 miles respectively, in clear weather. Lat. 55. 25. N. Long. 5. 7. W. Pop. in 1851, 8293.