one of the ancient provinces of the Spanish monarchy, distinguished by the title of a principality, and under that name conferred on the heir apparent to the throne of Spain. By the new division of Spain, however, in 1833, the old province of Asturias took the name of Oviedo. It is bounded on the N. by the Bay of Biscay, on the S. by Leon, on the W. by Galicia, and on the E. by Santander. This part of Spain was known to the Romans by the name of the Ultramontane provinces, being bounded on every side but the N. by high mountains, which are passable with difficulty by horses, and nearly impassable by wheel-carriages. The principal road through the province is the Camino real or royal highway from Gijon and Leon to Madrid. This magnificent road, which cost so much that Charles IV. inquired if it were paved with silver, is carried by means of bridges and embankments over every impediment of a rugged and mountainous territory. In winter, however, it is in some places almost impassable. A railroad is now in progress from Aviles to Madrid, through Leon and Oviedo. Asturias contains 3460 square miles, and its population in 1849 amounted to 510,000. It is divided into 77 audiencias, which vary greatly as to their extent and productions. The face of the country is excessively irregular and mountainous; the higher elevations are not cultivated; and even in the valleys, which are irrigated by numberless streams, though there is abundant pasture for cattle, there is a great deficiency of corn. The flour of maize constitutes the principal food of all but the higher classes of inhabitants. Wheat is not much grown. The humidity weakens the plant; and though at first it appears to flourish, and looks well till it is in blossom, the crop frequently fails. Rye grows better, and constitutes part of the food, especially when mixed with maize. Chesnuts, as elsewhere in Spain, form an important part of the sustenance of the inhabitants. They are very abundant on the hills, and the nuts as well as the wood are very valuable products. Other kinds of timber well calculated for shipbuilding are found in the mountains; and several medicinal plants, such as heliobore, valerian, angelica, and others, which form trifling branches of commerce. Cows and horses are reared in this province, and considerable numbers of them are sent to Galicia, Leon, and the two Castiles. Vines, for want of due attention, do not flourish. Very little wine is made, and that little of bad quality; but to compensate for this deficiency, there is abundance of apples, and cider forms the common drink of the people. In some parts of the province there are very valuable mines of coal, some of which is transported to Cadiz, Carthagena, and other ports in the Mediterranean. The quantity yielded in 1847 was 472,000 quintals, being three times the amount in 1835. In the lower parts of the country, especially on the sea-coast, at a distance from coal-mines and forests, the inhabitants use turf or peat for firing. In the vicinity of the river Aviles, some mines of copper and iron are worked. The other mineral productions are gold, lead, zinc, magnesia, arsenic, cobalt, lapis-lazuli, alum, antimony, jet, marble, and rock-crystal. Fuel being plentiful, several manufactories of copper utensils have been established, which supply some parts of Leon and Castile with braziers' kettles, pots, and other similar articles. Besides these, there is a royal manufactory near Oviedo, where, in blast-furnaces, cannon-balls, grenades, bombs, and cannon of all calibres are cast. Some coarse cloths are made, but not sufficient to supply the inhabitants.
The province is generally mountainous, especially in the S., where it is intersected by numerous ramifications of the Pyrenees. These gradually decline in height as they approach the ocean, along the border of which is a narrow stripe of the best and most populous portion of the principality. From the narrowness of this tract, it must be seen that the courses of all the rivers are necessarily short and rapid, and that they are very apt to overflow the country when the rains descend on the mountains. The Nalon, its principal river, passes the city of Oviedo, before which it receives the river Caudal, formed by the junction of two others, namely the Pola de Leon and the Aller. After passing Oviedo, the rivers Trubia and Narcea contribute their streams, when, after a course of 62 miles, it falls into the ocean. Along the whole extent of the coast of Asturias, a distance of 130 miles, there is not one good port. In that of Ribadesella, a large frigate may anchor; but it is difficult of access. Gijon will admit a vessel drawing 16 or 17 feet water, but the entrance here is also very narrow and dangerous. The principal city of the province is Oviedo. (See OVIEDO.) At a league from the city are the warm baths of Caldas. The spring issues from a calcareous rock of secondary formation; it is much resorted to, being found highly beneficial in many diseases. Gijon is honoured by having been the native place of Jovellanos, one of the wisest and best men that Spain has recently produced. He founded here the Asturian Institution, destined for the instruction of youth in mathematics, mineralogy, and navigation, which continues to flourish, though the building is still unfinished. He also projected the road for wheel-carriages from Gijon to Leon. The cabildo of Oviedo has done honour to his memory by erecting at the gate of their city, through which this road passes, a stone with an inscription to perpetuate the obligations which his country owes to him. At 10 leagues to the E.S.E. of Oviedo stands the collegial church and sanctuary of Covadonga, famous in the history of the period when the remains of the Goths were collected in the mountains of Asturias, and commenced that struggle against the Moors which continued during seven centuries, till the last of that wonderful people were finally driven out of the peninsula. The sea-coasts, as well as the small rapid streams, abound with fish of various kinds, the latter especially with salmon and lampreys, which are sent to supply the markets of Madrid. The Asturians are principally employed in agriculture. Their character is marked by the qualities which generally distinguish the inhabitants of mountainous regions; and they have been called the Swiss of Spain. They are robust, patient, and hardy; unenterprising but laborious; hospitable to strangers, and enthusiastic lovers of their country. Naturally prone to meditation, their imaginative spirit delights to dwell on