or WESTERN ISLANDS. These form a range situated in the Atlantic Ocean, extending in an oblique line from N.W. to S.E., between 37° and 40° N. Lat., and 25° and 32° W. Long. It has been a subject of some controversy among geographers, to what division of the globe they ought to be referred; but they are now generally considered as pertaining to Europe.

It does not appear that the ancients had any knowledge of the Azores, or of any group in this sea, except the Canaries, to which they finally applied the celebrated appellation of the Fortunate Islands. But the Arabian geographers, Edrisi and Ibn al Varid, describe, after the Canaries, nine other islands in the Western Ocean. That these were the Azores is highly probable, since their number is exactly nine; and because a species of hawk is specially noticed by these writers as existing there in great abundance,—a circumstance that afterwards appeared to the Portuguese so remarkable, that they gave them the name of Azores, or Hawk Islands. The climate in which they are placed also makes them north of the Canaries. Some other coincidences also might be pointed out; and, upon the whole, there appears no reason to doubt that the Azores are really the nine islands enumerated by the Arabians. The Arabian writers represent them as having been populous, and as having contained cities of some magnitude; but they state that the inhabitants had been greatly reduced by intestine warfare. At the time of their discovery, they were uninhabited, and covered with forests and underwood, which have now entirely disappeared.

The first European discovery of this group is claimed by the Flemings. A Flemish merchant named Van der Berg, is reported, in sailing from Lisbon, to have been driven upon these shores in the year 1439. The intelligence soon reached the court of Lisbon, where it excited considerable interest; and the navigator Cabral was sent to prosecute the discovery. In 1459 the islands began to be planted and colonized, and in so fertile a soil the inhabitants rapidly multiplied. In 1580 they fell, with the other Portuguese territories, under the dominion of Spain. At this time the Azores were the grand rendezvous in the voyage homewards of the fleets, which came laden with the wealth of both the Indies. Hence they became a theatre of that maritime warfare which was carried on with such spirit by the English under Queen Elizabeth against the peninsular powers. In 1586 Sir Walter Raleigh equipped two pinnaces of 35 and 40 tons, the command of which he gave to Captain Whiddon. Having taken two or three prizes, they fell in, off St Michael, with the great fleet of Spanish galleons, consisting of 24 sail, two of them caracks of 1000 or 1200 tons. They attacked them, however, without hesitation, hoping to cut off some struggling member of this great body, but were unable to make any impression upon it. In 1587 Sir Francis Drake, after having swept the harbour of Cadiz, sailed for the Azores, where he took an East India carack, richly laden, and the first that had ever fallen into the hands of the English. In 1589 the Earl of Cumberland fitted out a squadron, sailed for the Azores, and made numerous prizes.

Under the active administration of Pombal, considerable exertions were made for the improvement of the Azores; but the stupid and bigoted government which followed rather tended to destroy these benefits, and to make the islands take a retrograde course.

The Azores within a recent period attracted some attention as the theatre of contest between the parties contending for the crown of Portugal. The adherents of the constitution, who supported against Miguel the rights of Maria da Gloria, obtained possession of Terceira, where they succeeded in maintaining themselves. After various struggles, Queen Maria's authority was eventually established over all these islands.

The aspect of all the islands is very similar in general characteristics, presenting an elevated and undulating outline, with little or no table-land, and rising into peaks, of which the lowest (that of St Mary's) is 1889 feet, and the highest (that of Pico) 7613 feet above the level of the sea. Their lines of sea-coast are with few exceptions high and precipitous, with bases of accumulated masses of fallen rock, in which open bays, or scarcely more inclosed inlets, form the harbours of the trading towns. The climate is particularly temperate and equable; the extremes of sensible heat and cold being, however, increased by the degree of humidity present in the atmosphere. The range of the thermometer is from 45° Fahr., the lowest known extreme,—or 48° the ordinary lowest extreme of January,—to 82° the ordinary, or 86° the highest known extreme of July, and near the level of the sea. Between these two points (both taken in the shade) there is from month to month a pretty regular gradation of increase or decrease, amounting to somewhat less than four degrees (Geographical Journal, vol. xv.). They have an aggregate area of 700 square miles, and in 1841 had a population of 214,300. St Michael, the largest and most populous of these islands, has an area of 224 square miles, and (1840) 80,809 inhabitants. Proceeding from E. to W., this island presents a considerable variety of surface. The E. end rises from a bluff sea-cliff of between 1200 and 1400 feet elevation, to a lofty inland peak from which a central range, varying in height from 2000 to 2500 feet, runs to the westward, terminating in the Serra da Agoa de Pao, 3060 feet above the sea. The sea-coast gradually declines in approaching the last point, where it is not more than about 100 feet high. The part next seen is lower, and its outline, as presented by the summits of numerous volcanic monticules of about 1300 feet elevation, united in a central ridge more undulating; the western extremity being marked by the conspicuous Serra Gorda, 1574 feet above the sea; and its shores on both sides are low, broken, and rocky. Of the remaining part the aspect is that of a vast truncated cone, irregularly cut off at an elevation of about 800 feet, and falling on the N., S., and W. sides to a perpendicular coast of between 300 and 800 feet high. The outline is varied by the intervention of peaks, thrown up on the summit and flanks, and round the foot of the mountain. In the higher parts, the surface is generally covered with an undergrowth of heaths, cedar, laurel, laurestinos, and other evergreen shrubs, which give the mountains an exceedingly rich and wooded appearance. Like all volcanic countries, the face of the island is uneven and irregular, being deeply excavated by numerous ravines and roughened by streams of semi-vitrified and scoriaceous lava that resist all atmospheric influences and repel vegetation. Heavy rains falling on the mountains afford a constant supply of water to four lakes at the bottom of extinct craters or subsidences, and a number of minor reservoirs; and through them to small streams running rapidly down on all sides into the sea.—(Geographical Journal, vol. xv.) In the year 1591 a most tremendous earthquake appears to have been felt all over the Azores, and to have shaken St Michael for twelve days without intermission. Since that period there is no record of any such great convulsion, except one in 1767, of which we have no particulars, and it was probably much less formidable; nor are any of its volcanoes at present in a state of action. Hot springs abound in every part of the island, and from almost every crevice vapour is seen issuing. But the most remarkable phenomena are the Caldeiras or boiling fountains, which rise chiefly from a valley called the Furnas, near the western extremity of the island. The water ascends in columns to the height of about 12 feet, after which it dissolves in vapour, forming clouds of various shapes and colours. The heat is such as to boil an egg in two minutes, though the sulphurous impregnation unfit it for being employed in culinary purposes. The ground in the immediate vicinity is entirely covered with native sulphur, like hoar frost. At a small distance is a remarkable phenomenon called the Muddy Crater, the vertex of which, 45 feet in diameter, is on a level with the plain. Its contents are in a state of violent and continual ebullition, accompanied with a sound resembling the waves of a tempestuous ocean. Yet they never rise above its level, unless occasionally to throw to a small distance a spray of the consistence of melted lead. The Furnas abounds also in hot springs, some of which it is impossible to touch without being scalded. There is almost always, however, a cold spring near to the hot one, so that the water can be brought to any temperature that may be desired. These springs, after being long neglected, have, within the last half century, been greatly resorted to, and the cures performed in cases of palsy, rheumatism, and similar maladies, are said to have been very wonderful.

The plains are fertile in wheat, barley, and Indian corn; whilst vines and oranges grow luxuriantly on the sides of the mountains. They are made to spring even from the interstices of the volcanic rocks, which are sometimes blasted in order that they may receive the plants. Raised in this manner, these fruits are said to be of superior quality; but the great expense originally required in such a mode of cultivation confines it to persons of some capital. The western part of the island yields hemp, which might be raised to a considerable extent. The exports consist of wine, fruit, and provisions. Foreign intercourse used to be confined rigorously to Lisbon; but since the emigration of the court, the inhabitants have assumed the privilege of trading directly with England, America, and other countries.

The principal town in the island is Ponta Delgada, which contains about 20,000 inhabitants. It is built with tolerable regularity, the streets being straight and broad. The religious edifices are numerous and elegant. When visited by Captain Boyd in 1831, it had six churches, eight monasteries, and four convents; but these last, which were noted for the irregular lives of their vestals, have since been suppressed. The harbour receives only small vessels; those of any magnitude must anchor in an open road, which, though not dangerous, cannot be occupied during the prevalence of southerly gales. Its other towns are Villa Franca, Ribeira, Grande, Alagoa, Agua de Pao, &c.

St Mary is a small island immediately adjacent to St Michael, through the medium of which its trade is conducted, as it has no good harbours of its own. It has an area of 36 square miles, producing wheat in abundance, of which a considerable quantity is exported. It is of trap formation, and contains beds of marine shells. Pop. in 1840, 4666.

Terceira, though smaller than St Michael, yet being placed in a more central position with respect to the other islands, has been chosen as the seat of government. The port of Angra is also superior to any of those in St Michael. This island does not exhibit nearly the same extensive traces of volcanic action; and the summits of its mountains are generally level. It is represented by Adanson, however, as entirely composed of volcanic products. The lava, he says, is of a thicker grain than that of Tenerife. It abounds in grain and cattle; but the wines are inferior, and the fruits are raised merely for internal consumption. The residence of the government renders the society somewhat superior to that which is found in the other islands. The number of inhabitants is estimated at 50,000.

Fayal is the most frequented of all the islands after St Fayal, Michael, as it has one of the best harbours in the Azores, and lies directly in the track of vessels that are crossing the Atlantic in any direction. Its principal town is Villa de Horta. Captain Cook found that all sorts of fresh provisions might be obtained there: the bullocks and hogs are good, but the sheep small and poor. The town is defended by two castles and a wall, both in decay, and serving rather for show than strength. The city contains two convents for monks and three for nuns, with eight churches. These are the only good buildings in it, no other having glass windows. The bay is two miles in length and three-quarters of a mile in breadth, and the depth of water from 6 to 20 fathoms. Though a good road, it is not altogether free from danger in S.S.W. and S.E. winds. Pop. 23,000.

A considerable quantity of wine is exported from Fayal Pico under the appellation of Fayal wine, but really the produce of Pico, one of the most remarkable of the Azores. This island is composed of an immense conical mountain, rising to the height of 7613 feet, and bearing every trace of volcanic formation. The soil consists entirely of pulverized lava, and the ground has even been said to sound hollow when struck. All the lower parts of the mountain are in the highest state of cultivation, and covered with vine and orange plantations. The wine, which forms a sort of inferior Madeira, is in considerable demand. Pico produces also a valuable species of wood, resembling and equal in quality to mahogany. Pop. 26,000.

Graciosa and St George are two small islands, situated between Fayal and Terceira. Graciosa is chiefly noted for its extreme beauty of its aspect and scenery. About 50 years ago St George suffered from one of those awful visitations to which the Azores are subject. In 1808 a caldeira, situated in the centre of the island, was observed to be in a state of violent fermentation. It continued during several days to emit subterraneous noises, and to cause violent convulsions throughout every part of the island. At length the great crisis came; vast streams of fire issued forth in every direction, with clouds of smoke, which, but for the volcanic light, would have involved everything in midnight darkness. The principal stream took its direction towards the beautiful town of Ursula, which it seemed on the point of swallowing up; but suddenly changing its direction, it rushed into the sea by a different channel; a happy event, which superstition ascribed to the prayers of the Ursuline nuns. Many hundred acres of fertile land, however, were covered with scoriae and ashes; some lives were lost, and general gloom and consternation diffused throughout the island. The inhabitants, however, soon applied themselves to repair the injury which their land had sustained. Population about 20,000.

The two small and most westerly islands of Corvo and Flores seem but imperfectly to belong to the group. They Flores lie also out of the usual track of navigators; but to those who, missing their course, are led thither, Flores affords good shelter in its numerous bays. Its poultry is said to be the finest in the world; and the cattle are numerous, but small. The surplus produce of these islands is not of much importance. Population above 15,000.

It would be improper to close this notice without mentioning one of the most striking occurrences in nature, sometimes exhibited in this quarter—the sudden emersion of new islands from the bosom of the ocean. The first relation of such an event is given by Kircher in his *Mundus Subterraneus*. He describes it as announced by violent earthquakes, which lasted for eight days; then a fire broke from the surface of the sea, and rose to the clouds, whilst vast quantities of stones, earth, sand, and minerals, were at the same time vomited out. At length a group of rocks burst forth, which gradually increased till they covered several miles in circumference, and, after being shattered by a new earthquake, settled into a solid consistence.

A narrative of a similar phenomenon is given in the 32d volume of the *Philosophical Transactions*. John Robison, master of a small vessel, is stated to have arrived on the 10th December 1720 at Terceira, "near which island he saw a fire break out of the sea." On his arrival at Angra, the governor hired his vessel for the purpose of going to view it. "On the 19th," says he, "at two afternoon, we made an island all fire and smoke. The ashes fell on our deck like hail and snow. The fire and smoke roared like thunder or great guns." He adds, that quantities of pumice stone, probably common lava, and of half-broiled fish, were found floating on the sea in its vicinity.

A similar phenomenon took place in June 1811, about half a league from the western extremity of the island of St. Michael. On the 13th of that month an island was thrown up in the sea, to which was given the name of Sabrina, by the commander of the British man-of-war of that name, who witnessed the explosion. It was soon worn away by the sea, and is now only to be traced in a submarine cone 15 fathoms under the surface.

See Hartmann's *Edrisi*; *Voyages des Hollandais*, tome i.; Astley's *Collection*, vol. i.; Masson's *Account of St. Miguel*, in *Phil. Trans.* 1778; Cook's *Second Voyage*; Adamson's *Voyage to Senegal*; *History of the Azores*, London, 1813; Boyd's *Azores*; *London Geographical Journal*.