Brecknockshire, an inland county in South Wales, is bounded on the north by Radnor; on the east by Hereford and Monmouth; on the south by Glamorgan, and on the west by Caernarthen and Cardigan shires. Its greatest length from south to north is about 53 miles, and its greatest breadth from east to west about 46 miles. It possesses an area of 719 square miles, or 460,158 acres, and is thus the fourth largest county in Wales. It is supposed to have derived its name from Brychan, a Welsh prince, who flourished in the fifth century.
The old red sandstone is the principal geological formation in this county, and occupies the whole of the central portion from east to west. Along the southern boundary there extends a narrow belt of carboniferous limestone, millstone grit ("farewell rock" of the miners), and the outcrop of the coal beds; together forming the northern rim of the coal measures in the great South Wales coalfield; but no part of the county is sufficiently within the measures to yield valuable mines. Brecon therefore does not occupy an important position as a mining county. The narrow projecting part of the county to the north, lying between Radnor and Cardigan, is occupied by the Upper and Lower Silurian beds; and there is a somewhat singular narrow pen insula of the former projecting into the red sandstone for a distance of ten miles, in a S.W. direction, and terminating at about five miles north of the town of Brecon. A belt of limestone extends from the town of Hay on the east, and passing in a S.W. direction through the town of Brecon, terminates on the west at the Brecknockshire Van. Another and more prominent hand extends along the border of the old red sandstone on the N.W., where it joins the Silurian beds.
The general aspect of the county is mountainous, and the scenery is marked by great beauty and wild grandeur. A chain of the loftiest mountains in South Wales completely encircles the south, composed in the east of the Black mountains, 2545 feet in height, and the curious Sugar Loaf rising to the height of 1760 feet. On the west of Brecknockshire are the Van and Talsarn mountains 2596 feet, and Mount Capellante 2394 feet in height; while the centre of the crescent is occupied by the masses of the Brecknockshire Beacons, towering with their lofty summits to a height of 2862 feet. In the north, a range of barren hills, called Mynydd Bwlch Groes, at the most westerly end, and Mynydd Epynt towards the east, enters the boundary of the county at a short distance from Llandovery in Caermarthenshire, and extending in a N.E. direction, terminates near the town of Builth.
Some of the valleys are distinguished by great beauty. The vale of the Usk, stretching from east to west, and dividing the county into two nearly equal portions, is hardly surpassed as a piece of romantic woodland scenery by any part of the British islands.
There is a considerable number of rivers in this county. The Wye, which is the chief, forms the boundary on the N. and N.E. from Rhayader to Hay, a distance of upwards of twenty miles; while the Towy, the Afon Claerwen and Elan separate the county from Cardigan and Radnor on the N.W. and N. The Usk rises in the Caermauthenshire Van on the west, and flowing in a direction nearly due east through the centre of the county, collects the waters from the range of the Beacons in the south, and from Mynydd Bwlch Groes and Mynydd Epynt in the north, by means of numerous smaller streams (of which the Tarell and the Honddu are the most important), and enters the county of Monmouth near Abergavenny. The Taff, the Hepste, and the Tawe, all rise on the south of the Beacon range, and passing through Glamorganshire, flow into the British Channel.
Of its several lakes, that of Llyn Safaldu is one of the largest in South Wales. The more important of the others are Llyn Fa Fawr, Pwll Bivery, and Llyn Carw.
The climate is moist, but temperate and salubrious; and the soil of the valleys, consisting as it does in many of them of rich alluvial deposits, is very fertile. The cultivated crops consist of wheat, oats, barley, rye, turnips, peas, potatoes, and vetches; of these the greater part is consumed within the county. The uplands are chiefly in pasture, and are stocked with sheep, cattle, and ponies, which, with wool, butter, and oak-bark, form the staple of a considerable trade with the adjoining English counties, and with the iron districts lying to the south. The farms are generally small, but are well cultivated in the lower parts of the county. The highland occupiers are a very humble hard-working class of men. It is calculated that about two-thirds only of the lands in the county are inclosed.
There are several tramways in the county, one of which extends from Brecon to Hay and Kington, and another from Devynock, between Brecon and Treecastle, to join the Swansea canal at Ystradgynlais. There is also an excellent canal from Brecon by Crickhowel and Abergavenny to Newport. Brecknockshire does not possess a railway; but the Hereford, Abergavenny, and Newport line skirts the east side of the county; while the Vale of Neath and Taff Vale railways pass for a considerable distance along the county boundary on the south.
The principal towns are Brecon, Builth, Crickhowel, and Hay. The county returns one member to parliament, and has done so since 1536. The political influence is chiefly in the hands of the Marquis of Camden, and Sir Charles Morgan of Tredegar. Constituency in 1852, 2779. The average gross rental of the county is estimated at 5s. 9d. per acre. The annual value of real property paying income-tax is £1,198,472.
The population of the county by the last census was 61,474, giving an average of 188 persons to a square mile, or 7-5 acres to each person. Of the total number, 31,314 were males, and 30,160 females. The number of inhabited houses was 12,221, uninhabited 731, and building 74, giving an average of 17 inhabited houses to a square mile, and 5 persons to each house. The following table gives the census returns for the last 50 years.
| Year | Population | |------|------------| | 1801 | 32,292 | | 1811 | 37,735 | | 1821 | 43,826 | | 1831 | 47,763 | | 1841 | 55,603 | | 1851 | 61,474 |
It is calculated that about one-fourth of the whole population are in the condition of labourers, servants, &c. About ten per cent. live by agriculture, and an equal number by trade; while upwards of thirteen hundred persons possess independent means, and about four hundred follow professions.
In 1847 the total number of children of the working-classes at day schools within the county was 3986. The total number of schools was 96, of which 38 were church or national, with 1873 scholars; 33 adventure or private, with 1249 scholars; 5 British and foreign, with 443 scholars; 2 dissenting, with 79 scholars; and 18 dame schools, with 341 scholars. It appears that the average annual income of each school was only £24, 8s. 13½d., and the average annual incomes of the teachers from all sources only £23, 15s. 2½d.
The total number of scholars attending Sunday schools was 13,654. The total number of Sunday schools was 181, of which 40 were Church of England, with 2409 scholars; 30 Baptist, with 2132 scholars; 45 Calvinistic Methodist, with 3742 scholars; 51 Independent, with 4080 scholars; 10 Wesleyan, with 523 scholars; other denominations 5, with 768 scholars. In 69 of these schools instruction was given in the Welsh language only; in 46 in the English language only; and in 66 in both tongues. From the foregoing statistics it will be seen that dissenting sects are in a great majority in this county; and also that the Welsh language is still much employed. It is calculated that one-half of the population use Welsh habitually.
Brecknock, the capital of the county of the same name, a market and borough town, 145 miles N. by W. from London, picturesquely situated in a fine open valley, at the confluence of the Honddu the Tarell and the Usk, and nearly in the centre of the country. There are three main streets, with several smaller ones. The houses are for the most part constructed of stone, and are generally well built. Brecon has a fine old church, partly of the Norman period. There are two other churches, and two Independent, two Baptist, and one Calvinistic Methodist chapel.
The corporation consists of a mayor, recorder, four aldermen, and twelve councillors. The borough has returned one member to parliament since 1536. Constituency in 1832, 336. The assessed taxes yield annually £1,259, and the annual value of real property paying income-tax is £24,941. There are weekly markets, and several fairs in the course of the year. The quarter-sessions and assizes are held here.
Brecon has a foundation called the College of Christ Church, of which the Bishop of St David's is ex officio dean. This has hitherto been entirely inefficient, but there is now Breda (1854) some prospect of reformation in the management. It is proposed also to transfer the college of St David's at Lampeter to this town. The ruins of the ancient castle are unimportant; they are inclosed in the beautiful grounds of the Castle Hotel. There are some fine Roman and other remains in the immediate vicinity. Pop. of municipality (1851) 5673. Inhabited houses, 1147.