the most northern county of the Scottish mainland, bounded west and south by Sutherlandshire, east and north by the Northern Ocean, situated between Lat. 58. 5. and 58. 40. N., Long. 3. 0. and 3. 55. W.; extreme length 53 miles; extreme breadth 33 miles; extent of coast 105 miles; area 455,708 acres, or 712 square miles, about two-thirds of which is moorland. The form of Caithness nearly resembles an irregular triangle, having as its greatest side the line of coast on the S.E., stretching from the Ord of Caithness to Duncansby Head. The surface of the county generally is flat and tame, consisting for the most part of barren moors, and almost entirely destitute of trees. It presents a gradual slope from the north and east upwards to the ridge of hills on the west and south, which separates it from Sutherlandshire, and which on the southern boundary, where it is bifurcated, attains considerable elevation. The one branch called the Maiden Paps contains the peak of Morven, 2334 above the level of the sea; the other, continuing in the line of the main ridge, juts into the sea, and terminates in the huge granitic precipice called the Ord of Caithness. In the centre of the county, hemmed in by the hills on the western boundary, the ridge of the Maiden Paps, and the sea, is a large undulating plain comprising nearly four-fifths of its whole extent. On its southern side it is broken up by several detached hills, and in the interior contains a considerable number of small lakes. The most depressed part of the county lies in the peninsula, formed in the N.E. corner by the indentation of Dunnet bay and Sinclair bay. The more elevated portion presents a light sandy soil which admits of considerable cultivation, but the low grounds are covered with extensive morasses, producing only heath and rough grass. The geological formation consists chiefly of sandstone, sandstone flag, and occasionally limestone; but granite and gneiss are also found in the west. On the east Caithness presents a precipitous coast, with scarcely a creek in which a vessel, even of small size, can find shelter. On the northern coast, where the Pentland Firth separates it from the Orkney islands, stand at the distance of 13 miles from each other the two bold headlands of Duncansby Head, flanked by two insular “stalks” of freestone, on the N.E. (Lat. 59. 39. N., Long. 30. 1. W.), and Dunnet Head on the N.W. (Lat. 58. 40. N., Long. 3. 21. W.), the most northern point of Scotland. The one is marked by the white steeple of Cannisby on the west, the other by a lighthouse on the rock 346 feet above the level of the sea. The navigation of the Pentland Firth is attended with considerable dangers, from the strength and eddies of the current—the eastern branch of the great Atlantic stream. Off the island of Stroma, which is separated from the Mainland by a strait three miles broad, is a small vortex called the Swalchie, while closer inshore are the “Merry Men of Mey,” a group of breakers caused by eddies between projecting headlands. On the east coast, in addition to the harbour of Wick, erected in 1831, at a cost of above L40,000, there is a small harbour to the south at Sarder, and another to the north at Staxigoe, a small pier at Clyth and another at Lybster. On the northern coast, Scrabster roads in Thurso bay affords tolerably good anchorage, while at Thurso and Sandside bay are commodious harbours for larger vessels. The climate of Caithness is variable, but not unhealthy; and though the winter storms fall with great severity on the unsheltered coast, yet, from its proximity to a large expanse of sea, the cold is not intense, and snow seldom lies many days continuously. In winter and spring the northern shore is subject to frequent disastrous gales from the N. and N.W. The waters of Reay, Thurso, and Wick, are the principal streams which traverse it, but none of them are of any particular importance. The largest lochs are those of Wattin and Cateil, but there are numerous small ones well stocked with trout. A great change has taken place within the last few years in the agricultural position of Caithness, in consequence of the improved mode of cultivation introduced chiefly by the late James Trnall, Esq. of Ratter. That part of the agricultural district which stretches along the coast is still mostly in the hands of small farmers, who cultivate the soil only during the intervals of the fishing-season; but inland, in the more elevated districts, and along the banks of the principal streams, the land is let out into large farms with leases long enough to encourage the holder to improve the soil, and practise a rotation of crops. In the pasture ground black cattle and sheep, chiefly of the Leicester and Cheviot breeds, are reared for the southern markets; and, independently of the weekly corn-markets at Thurso and Wick, the rapidity of communication with the south is opening up a valuable market for the produce of the dairy and farm yard. The principal crops raised are oats, beans, potatoes, turnips, and a little flax; wheat can be grown only where draining has been carried to considerable perfection.

But the great source of profit to the inhabitants is to be found in the fisheries of cod, ling, lobsters, and herring, which abound all around the coast. The most important is the herring-fishery, beginning about the end of July and lasting for about six weeks, the centre of operations being at Wick and the surrounding districts. The number of fishermen employed in 1853 was 4651; the value of boats, nets, lines, &c., for the same year, was estimated at L72,203, and the number of barrels of herrings caught was 231,429. Besides those more immediately engaged in manning the boats, the fisheries give employment to a large number of coopers, curers, packers, and others, making in 1853 a total of 9600 persons employed. The salmon-fisheries on the coast and at the mouths of rivers were formerly very productive, and are still let at high prices. Scattered along the coast are valuable quarries of freestone, slate, and of excellent flag for pavements. The county of Caithness is far from rich in other minerals. Slight indications of lead and iron, and it is said of copper, have been found in the mountainous districts; and indications of coal, or rather of bituminous shale, have been noticed at Cannisby. The early history of Caithness may, to some extent, be traced in the various character of the remains and the diversity of its local nomenclature. Picts' houses, Norwegian names, and Danish mounds, attest that the Celts were successively displaced by

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1 Since 1809, according to the Fishery-Board returns, the number of barrels caught has risen from 20,656, to 231,429. these different tribes; and the number and strength of its fortified keeps leave us to infer that its annals present the usual record of feuds, assaults, and reprisals. Circles of erect stones, as at Steinster Loch and Bower, the ruins of Popish chapels and places of pilgrimage in almost every district, illustrate the changes which have come over its ecclesiastical condition. The most important remains are those of Bucholie Castle, Girnigoe Castle, and the tower of Keiss; and on the S.E. coast the castles of Clyth, Swiney, Forse, Latheron, Knockinman, Dunbeath, Achastle, and Berriedale. About six miles from Thurso stand the ruins of Braal Castle, the residence of the ancient bishops of Caithness. The principal gentlemen's seats in Caithness are Barrowgill Castle, the residence of the Earl of Caithness; Watten Castle, the residence of Sir R. A. Anstruther, Bart.; Akerigg Castle, the residence of Sir George Dunbar, Bart.; Thurso Castle, the residence of Sir George Sinclair, Bart.; Castlehill, the residence of George Traill, Esq., M.P., &c.

Caithness is divided into 13 parishes, and contains 13 churches belonging to the Establishment (in 4 of which there is service in Gaelic); 16 belonging to the Free Church (in 8 of which there is service in Gaelic); 1 United Presbyterian, and 1 Roman Catholic.

The county returns one member to the imperial parliament. The parliamentary constituency in 1853 was 683. The principal towns are Wick and Thurso; the most important villages are Broadhaven, Castletown, Louisburgh, Sarclat, and Staxigoe. Pop. (1851) 34,529; (1841) 36,343; (1851) 38,709. Annual value of property assessed (1849) £71,441.