or, as it is often called, MID-LOTHIAN, is the seat of the metropolis of Scotland. It is situated between N. Lat. 55° 39' and 50° 59', and Long. W. of Greenwich, 2° 36' and 3° 33'. Its boundaries are the Firth of Forth on the N., Linlithgowshire or West-Lothian on the N.W., Lanarkshire S.W., Peebles and Selkirkshire on the S., and Roxburgh, Berwick, and Haddington shires on the E. In form it is very irregular, being narrowest to the Forth, and spreading out towards Lanark and Roxburgh shires. The area comprises 360 square miles, or 230,400 acres; whereof 99,275 acres are under regular cultivation, 26,657½ acres permanent pasture, 831½ irrigated meadow, 4177½ called waste, 7321½ in wood; the remaining area is occupied by towns, villages, sheep-walks, roads, &c.
The surface of this county presents a great variety of scenery. Within the space of a few miles the stately grandeur of the metropolis, the trim elegance of the suburban villa, and the desolate loneliness of a highland glen may be seen. Bounded by the Firth of Forth from Musselburgh to Cramond, the land everywhere rises towards the base of the Pentland Hills, which advance boldly from the S.W. to within five miles of the sea at their eastern extremity. S. and E. of these hills the surface is flat but broken, and again rises to the Lammermoors, the mountains at the head of the Gala, and the Moorfoot-hills. Of the low districts comparatively a small portion is flat. The occasional outbursts of trap, and frequent undulations, diversify its surface, while the woods surrounding the residences of the proprietors beautify and enrich a scene possessing much natural grandeur and loveliness. One cannot travel along a mile or two of road, but some eminence brings into view the ever-changing sea, with the Lomonds, Ochil Hills, and the Grampian Mountains in the distance; while Arthur Seat, the Castle Rock, the Braids, Craiglockhart, and Corstorphine Hills, and the more lofty sweeps of the Pentlands, contrast finely with the rich and beautiful plains around.
Many memorials of the ancient inhabitants of this district have been found, or may still be seen. At Cramond various objects of Roman art have been got; and it is believed that that place was once their principal seaport on the east of Scotland. Along the banks of the Almond, which falls into the sea there, and upwards to where it passes into West-Lothian in Livingston parish, numerous burial places have been discovered; the chief of which is at Old Liston, having the form of a circular mound rising in the centre of a flat field, in the middle of which field stand three large upright stones, like giant guards over the ashes of the dead. Not far off there is another rough pillar; while at the Briggs farm stands the "Cat-Stane," with a Roman inscription upon it. In Ratho parish there is also an upright pillar and an altar stone. Above Comiston and near Morton, a similar upright stone exists, while more of these Standing Stones, as they are called, described in the local traditions as the battle-stones of the Picts, are seen in other situations. On various heights, such as Dalnahoy Hill, are shown what are said to have been the camps of the invaders at the time when the bow and the sling formed the arms of the warriors.
On the North Esk several traces of the early people who dwelt there also exist, but the valley of that stream is more enriched with the remains of a more advanced period of history; of which the chapel of Roslin, founded by the St Clairs in 1446, and Hawthornden, the seat of the poet Drummond, attract many to its banks. Further south Borthwick and Crichton Castles stand as records of the age before gunpowder was known. Dalhousie Castle and Dalkeith Palace keep up the connection between the past and the present, which Craigmillar, associated with the name of Mary Queen of Scots, has long ceased to do. Merchiston Castle, where dwelt Napier the inventor of logarithms, is seen to the S. of the city; while many a modern pile has since been raised between Whitehill and Barnton. On the S.E. brow of the Pentlands, at a place called Rullion Green, the Covenanters gave battle to the king's troops.
Of the several streams rising in the hilly range, the Gala flows southwards to the Tweed—in the district which bears its name. The Tyne, rising above Crichton, runs N.E. into Haddingtonshire. There is also the Esk, whereof the southern branch flows from the Moorfoot Hills, the northern from the southern slopes of the Pentlands. The Water of Leith also rises in the north-western side of the same hills. The Almond rises in Lanarkshire, and forms the boundary between West-Lothian for a considerable space. Rising in an elevated district, the course of these streams, though short, affords a large amount of water-power, considering their volume. The only loch of any extent is that at Duddingstone, near Edinburgh. The Edinburgh Water Company have constructed several large reservoirs—the first, called the Compensation Pond, between two hills at Logan House; and several others on the northern side of the Pentlands, at Bonaly and Bavelaw; while the reservoir for the supply of the Union Canal at Cobbieslaw covers several hundred acres.
The natural history of the county affords a wide field for interesting investigation. Hutton first brought the rocks into notice; and since then the fossil fishes in Burdleigh limestone quarries, and the fossil trees at Craigleith, are conspicuous. Of the various rocks which are found, none can surpass the Craigleith freestone for building purposes; and a vast excavation has been made for the supply of this material for the city. The cost both of quarrying and hewing the rock has caused recourse to be had to cheaper substitutes; and from Redhall and Hailes much stone is taken. This last forms coarse pavement and excellent steps for stairs, and is largely wrought. Many valuable greenstone or whinstone quarries exist; that at Barnton Mount supplies blocks of large size, which have been sent to England for docks, and even to Russia for fortifications. The causeway stones for the streets of Edinburgh are now procured from the whin quarries at Ratho, whence they are conveyed by the Union Canal. Materials of this sort for roads abound in every quarter.
Coal occupies two situations. The extensive deposits in the basin lying between the Pentlands, Inveresk, and Crichton, is the source from which a large supply is taken to the city. As many as 33 seams are enumerated, of various thickness and quality, including gas as well as household coal. The history of the working of these various seams, and its results on the fortunes of their proprietors, or those interested in them, has been of a very chequered nature; large sums having been lost in a fruitless search, or in too sanguine expectations as to the richness of the beds to be reached. Along the northern side of the Pentlands, The low district extends from the coast-side inwards by Edinburghshire, Slateford, and Ratho. Here are grown those crops which supply the wants of the city. Potatoes, turnip, clover grass, hay, straw, are all carried there, as well as grain; manure is brought back; and cattle are either reared or fattened. Several dairies send milk fresh to town, and their number is increasing. A few fields are pastured, but in general the only grass land is around the houses of the landlords. The farms contain from 50 to 400 acres, and are let on 19 years' leases at rents from L3 to L6 per acre, one-half of which is payable at Candlemas, the other at Whitsunday or Lammas, in the year succeeding that on which the crop is grown; and which usually varies with the price of grain. The labour is performed by married men who live in cottages on the farm. Three are required for each 100 acres, and one horse for every 20 or 30 acres, according to situation. Women and boys, some of whom come from the city, do the barn work, weeding and cleaning, and other light labour. The harvest work is chiefly performed by Irish reapers, and some few scythe-men. Reaping machines have also been tried, but the heavy tangled crops are too much for them. The land for potatoes is either manured in autumn, or in the drill when planting. From 24 to 34 tons is allowed of horse and cow dung per acre. When the lesser quantity is given, guano also at the rate of from 2 to 6 cwt. accompanies it. But guano is no favourite so near the city. The time of planting is March and April; seed per acre, 10 cwt.; produce, 5 to 8 tons. Wheat succeeds, and is sown in November, either broadcast or in drill. Hunter's and Fenton's are the kinds mostly sown; but Spalding's and Talavera are also grown. Either barley or turnips succeed the wheat. If barley, it has 15 tons of dung ploughed in autumn, or an equivalent of guano in spring, to be followed by turnip. The turnips in either case receive rather less manure than the potatoes, and are all carted off the ground; being sold to cowfeeders, who pay from L12 to L20 per acre for them. Barley or spring wheat again succeeds, to be followed by clover grass, which is sold green. Oats follow again, to be succeeded by potatoes or beans. The grain grown in this district is of the finest quality, and commands the highest price for seed corn, for which there is a considerable demand. A small part of this district is naturally dry, and the soil over the whole has been much altered with repeated heavy manurings, and it is now mostly of a free open texture, the heavy clayey portion having become so.
Elkington's system of draining was early introduced, and tile-draining more recently has been extensively followed, first at two feet deep, and of late at four, and from 18 to 36 feet apart. Steam-engines for thrashing the crops have been in use since 1830. They are non-condensing, and from four to ten horse power. Fences are chiefly thorn hedges; but stone walls surround the pleasure-grounds of the gentry. The capital required for farming purposes amounts to about L10 per acre.
The farm buildings are not extensive. They are either slated or tiled. Improvements have taken place in the new cottages, but there is still much to be done in this respect. The bothy system is unknown here. The ploughmen are a steady, regular class, hired by the year, partly in money, and partly in meal and potatoes,—the wages for 1854 being about 12s. 6d. per week, the various items being calculated at fairs prices.
There are about 200 acres of irrigated meadows, east and west of the city. Those to the west, from the liquid not being so rich, have never produced such large quantities of grass as those eastwards, where the most of them lie. The old meadows at Lochend Farm extended only to 15 acres; but a large increase has taken place between these and the sea, wherever the water could be raised, either by levels or steam power; and a large barren waste on the sea-coast between Portobello and Leith, now carries luxuriant crops of grass. From four to five cuttings are Edinburgh yearly obtained. Each acre lets for the season at from L.15 to L.35. The grass is entirely consumed by cows (it having valuable milk-producing properties), and, along with brewers' grains, forms their summer food. Of all the present applications of sewerage-manure water, that by gravitation forms the most profitable; and when it can be applied without detriment to the health of the inhabitants, it is certainly very deserving of being so, for it supplies a large quantity of milk-producing food, in close proximity to the place where it is most required.
The nursery grounds are very extensive, and supply a variety and quantity of plants, shrubs, and forest trees, equal to any in Britain.
In one parish in the vicinity of the town the average produce of wheat per acre for the four years ending 1854 has been estimated at 48 bushels, barley 57½ do., oats 64½ do., turnips 24 tons, potatoes 7½ tons per acre; which may be compared with a similar estimate from a high parish of 253 bushels wheat, 25½ barley, 20½ oats, 11½ tons turnip, and 2½ tons potatoes: showing the increase which high cultivation, plenty of manure, and fine climate, confers on a soil originally not of the finest quality.
The middle district comprehends the space lying beyond the aforementioned line, but does not approach to the hill sides or moorland tract. It covers a larger space than the former, and the same system of farming prevails as in the most improved counties removed from cities. Few potatoes are grown, and turnips are all consumed on the farm with the straw. Save where railways pass, distance prevents town manure being carted; but the canal towards the west takes off a considerable quantity. The rents range between L.1, 10s. and L.3 per acre. The farms are larger, fewer hands are employed, and also fewer horses kept. The crops are not so large, nor the quality of grain so fine. Guano is largely used, in conjunction with farmyard dung. The farm offices are commodious, but in many cases old. The rearing and feeding of cattle is here practised. Byres, boxes, and yards, are all in use. Save the harvest labourers, all the people reside on the farm. Draining with tiles and small stones began about 1830, and was very generally practised, the distance apart of the drains being about 36 feet. Since 1845 deeper drains have been put into the intermediate furrows, with pipes and collars. There are considerably more dairy farms here. A large portion of land is pasture, the best part of which is grazed with sheep, which are sold fat. The soil varies from the free open soil lying on trap, to the stiff, heavyish clays. Most of it is of an intermediate quality; and the system of fallowing having given place to turnip husbandry, in texture it has become much more free, and on part of it the turnips are eaten off with sheep. The cattle fed are chiefly bought for that purpose; they were formerly all of the Angus or Aberdeen horned breeds, but now they are either Irish or English one and two year olds. From the quantity of stock kept, fully L.10 per acre is required as capital, as the high farming system increases the amount of capital required. The leases here are also for nineteen years, and, as a rule, the old tenants have always the first offer of their farms before the expiry of the existing contracts. Many of the properties being of moderate size, the proprietors are as often changed as the tenants. On one estate we know, which has been held by eight different owners during the last fifty years, a tenant has continued to hold the same farm under all of them.
The high district includes all the moorland tracts and hill-sides where corn is grown. As it reaches an elevation of more than 800 feet, almost no wheat is grown, and oats are the chief corn crop. To the S.E. sheep are reared and fed, while to the W. the dairy is most common—indeed, on every farm from 10 to 40 cows are kept. The milk is churned, and butter and milk carted to the city, often 16 or 18 miles: brewers' grains or distillers' refuse being taken back Edinburgh, in return. The cows are partly bred on the farm, and are of the Ayrshire breed, or crosses between it and the short-horn. The churns are wrought with horse-power. The rents vary between 15s. and L.2 per acre. The farms are often larger than in the other districts, but of course less valuable. Improvements have proceeded somewhat slowly here; and there is still a large portion of land to drain, which is now being done with drains 3½ or 4 feet deep.
The accommodation both for the tenants, their labourers, and cattle, is somewhat poor. A large space is occupied with the Pentlands, Moorfoot, and other hills; on these both Cheviot and blackfaced sheep are grazed. This last breed predominates on the higher heathy hills, while the Cheviots occupy the lower greener heights. On each holding there are from 30 to 80 scores kept; one shepherd attends to upwards of 30 scores. Lowland farmers hold many of these farms, and are non-resident. Improvements have been going on here also. Many years ago what were called sheep drains were cut; in several places these are giving place to deeper drains, fitted with pipe and collar. Among the hills bordering on the Gala, where the subsoil is dry, guano has been extensively used for raising turnips. These are eaten off with sheep, and a crop of barley raised, or they are at once sown for pasture, by which means the herbage has been doubled. Very great improvements have been effected on many farms along the Gala by inclosures, since the railway passed through that district.
There are two weekly grain markets held in the county—in Edinburgh on Wednesday, and Dalkeith on Thursday. The latter, since the railways have been opened, has fallen from the position it was wont to hold, of the first in Scotland.—Edinburgh now taking that place. There were sold in that market in 1854 of:
| Quarters | Quantity | |----------|----------| | Wheat | 41,764 | | Barley | 59,967 | | Oats | 47,705 | | Beans | 5,596 |
Of course, these quantities do not include the whole sales, but only those passing through the market books. The grain is either brought in by carts or by railway, and is paid for immediately after the sale.
There is also a weekly sheep and cattle market on Wednesday, when from 3000 to 6000 sheep, and from 600 to 1000 cattle are offered for sale. On the second Tuesday of November Hallow Fair is held, when from 10,000 to 15,000 cattle are exhibited, and a horse market thereafter. There is a sheep fair also on the first Monday in April for lambing ewes at House of Muir, with a show of about 10,000 head of stock. A cattle and horse fair is held in October in Dalkeith; and two hiring fairs at Mid-Calder, where both cattle and horses are exposed for sale in March and October.
The valuation of Edinburghshire taken in 1649 is L.191,054, 2s. 9d. Scots. In 1811 the real rental of houses and lands, according to the property-tax, was L.677,832, 4s. 7d. In 1849, from the prisons assessment, L.1,389,111 was the valuation; and in 1855, at the previous rate of increase, it will reach one and a half millions sterling. In the county there are 30 parishes, with part of Fala and Kirkliston. Five parishes are included in Edinburgh and Leith, with a population in all, by the census of 1851, of 259,493, including Fala, but not part of Kirkliston. Excluding both of these and the five city parishes, the 25 landward ones contained 64,493 in 1851, all of which are now assessed for the poor, on whom L.15,902, 6s. 8½d. was expended in 1853. A police force also exists in the county, with a superintendent, assistants, and 22 district officers. Portobello and Granton, since the opening of the railways, may be said to form part of the metropolis. Dalkeith is the largest landward town, or burgh of barony. Musselburgh, Lasswade, Gilmerton, Loanhead, Cramond, Corstorphine, Mid-Calder, Ratho, and Currie, do not exceed the size of large villages.
The Union Canal, which was opened in 1822, runs for 10 miles through the county, and conveys stones, coal, &c., to the city, and manure from it, but no passengers or goods. The Dalkeith Railway was laid in 1836, but merely as a horse-way. Since then the Edinburgh and Glasgow Railway has been constructed, passing through the county for about 10 miles; the Caledonian for 18; the North British, in its various lines, for fully 30 miles; and the Edinburgh, Perth, and Dundee, to Granton and Leith.
There are in the county 423 miles of turnpike roads, from which £22,210 was collected in 1850 from the five district trustees. The traffic on the various roads has now greatly changed, the most of it consisting of short journeys to the railway stations; and several of the finest roads, such as the one to Queensferry, are now in little use.
There are ten noblemen holding property in the county, the most of whom have residences in it; also nine baronets, and ten families who have held their estates for a very long period. The rest of the land in the county has frequently changed owners.
Edinburghshire sends four members to parliament; two from the city; one from Leith, Portobello, and Musselburgh; and one from the county, the constituency of which amounted to 2133 in 1854.
**Agricultural Statistics of the County Crop 1854.**
(Total number of imperial acres returned 211,147½.)
| Crop | Number of acres | |---------------|-----------------| | Wheat | 8,128 | | Barley | 11,212 | | Oats | 29,552 | | Bere | 501 | | Beans | 1,551 | | Pease | 185 | | Vetches | 1,666 | | Turnips | 14,288 | | Potatoes | 6,619 | | Mangold | 77 | | Carrots | 62 | | Cabbages | 894 | | Flax | 16 | | Turnip seed | 155 | | Bare fallow | 635½ |