a maritime county in the province of Connaught, in the extreme west of Ireland, bounded on the north by Mayo and Roscommon, on the east by Roscommon, King's County, and Tipperary, on the south by Clare and the Bay of Galway; extending the entire breadth of the province of Connaught from the river Shannon to the Atlantic Ocean, which forms the western boundary of the county. According to the Ordnance Survey, it comprises an area of 2447 square miles, or 1,566,354 acres, of which 742,805 are arable, 708,000 uncultivated, 23,718 in plantations, 1801 in towns, and 90,030 under water. Excepting the counties of Antrim, Clare, and Fermanagh, this county comprises, in proportion to its area, a greater quantity of land under water than any other in Ireland.

The name of Galway, originally applied to the town of Name, the same name, is generally supposed to have been derived from "Gaels, or Gailes," traffic or commerce, signifying a merchant, and idh in Irish, signifying tribes or families, whence Gallibh, tribes of merchants," which name was pronounced Gallive, and afterwards in 1440 corrupted into Galway. In the time of Ptolemy it was inhabited by the Auteri. At a later period it was divided into the districts of Clanconow, Hy-Maine, Maghullen, Lianachia, Hy-Fiarcrin-Aidne (afterwards Clanrickard), and Hy-Tartagh. In the commencement of the sixteenth century it was portioned out amongst a number of families or septs, of which the principal were the O'Flahertys and O'Maleys in the west; the Burkes and Berminghams in the north; the O'Naghtens, O'Kellys, and O'Daly's in the east; and the O'Heynes, the O'Maddens, and the O'Shaughnessys in the north. It was made shire-ground by Elizabeth in 1569, and is now divided into eighteen baronies. These are sub-divided into 120 parishes, forming the entire diocese of Kilmacduagh and portions of the dioceses of Tuam, Clonfert, Elphin, and Killaloe. The dioceses of Kilmacduagh and Clonfert are now united with Killaloe and Kilfenora under one bishop; the former archbishopric of Tuam, together with Killala and Achonry, is a bishop's see; and Elphin is united with Kilmore and Ardagh: the county is therefore under the ecclesiastical jurisdiction of the bishops of Tuam, Killaloe, and Kilmore. It is the seat of the Poor-Law Unions of Balinasloe, Clifden, Galway, Glennnamaddy, Gort, Longrea, Mountbellew, Oughterard, Portumna, and Tuam, but small portions of the county are comprised in the neighbouring unions of Scariff and Roscommon. Galway is within the military district of Limerick, with barrack stations at Loughrea, Dunmore, Portumna, Galway, Gort, and Oughterard. The headquarters of the constabulary force, numbering about 750 men, are at Galway for the West-Riding, and Loughrea for the East-Riding.

The county is naturally divided by Lough Corrib into two great divisions, differing from each other in several striking points. The eastern division, which comprehends all the county except the four western baronies, rests on a limestone base, is convertible into good tillage land, and is, generally speaking, a level champagne county, but containing large quantities of wet bog; the western has a substratum of granite, and is barren, rugged, and mountainous. The southern part of the former of these divisions is supposed by some to be a continuation of the Golden Vale of Limerick, so celebrated for its fertility, and produces the finest wheat, except in the region of the Slievebohghta Mountains, which form part of the boundary between this county and Clare. The northern part of the same division is also rich pasture and tillage ground, beautifully diversified with hill and dale. Some of the intermediate country is comparatively barren; but those parts which would not repay the expense of tillage form excellent pasturage for sheep, which is the great staple commodity of the county.

The western division is divided into the three districts of Western Connemara, Jar-Connaught, and Joyce's Country, which correspond in boundary with the three modern baronies of Ballynahinch, Moycullen, and Ross. The name of Connemara is, however, often applied to the whole district, and signifies the Bays of the Ocean. Its highest mountains are the grand and picturesque group of Binabola, or the Twelve Galway. Pins, which occupy a space of about 25 square miles, midway between Lough Corrib and Aghris Point, the most western projection of the county. Knockenhiggen, the highest of these, is about 2400 feet high. The vale of Glen Ina is overhung by a naked perpendicular cliff 1200 feet in elevation, over which a considerable sheet of water is precipitated. But this district, although mountainous, is not an elevated country; the surface of most of it is not 100 feet above the level of the sea, rising from the edge of Galway Bay, in a gently sloping plain, to a height of not more than 300 feet, with some hills about 700 feet high. Joyce's Country, more northwards, is an elevated tract, with flat-topped hills of from 1300 to 2000 feet high, and deep narrow valleys lying between them.

The rivers are few, and excepting the Shannon, which forms the south-eastern boundary of the county, are of small extent. The Suck rises in Roscommon, and forms the eastern boundary, passing by Ballinasloe, and unites with the Shannon at Shannon Bridge. This latter river then forms part of the boundary of the county, passing by Shannon harbour, Banagher, Meelick, and Portumna, and presenting little that is attractive to the eye; "the banks are chiefly wide and apparently interminable plains, uninclosed—almost level with the river—bearing luxuriant crops of herbage, and feeding innumerable herds. We see scarcely any habitations; no villages or hamlets; and no road or traffic on the banks. The meadows of which I speak extend on both sides of the river for the greater part of its course from Banagher to Portumna. These meadows are all overflowed during the winter, and are let for grazing at a very high rent. For many miles there is nothing to relieve the monotony of these vast flats, excepting an old castle called Torr Castle—no otherwise remarkable than as being the only object which breaks the level. The views on this part of the Shannon brought forcibly to my recollection the banks of the Guadalquivir, between Seville and Cadiz."—Inglis.

After leaving Portumna, the Shannon swells into the great expanse of water called Lough Derg, which skirts the county of Galway as far as the prettily situated village of Mount Shannon. The Suck is joined by the Shevin and Ahascragh rivers. The Blackwater, a trifling stream, forms part of the northern boundary between Galway and Mayo, and discharges itself into Lough Corrib. Near Shrute it sinks into the ground through an open called a shallow, and, after a short underground course, bursts forth again through several springs. The Carnamart, a small stream, passes through the southern baronies, and falls into Galway Bay. The Ballynahinch, which is considered one of the best salmon-fishing rivers in Connacht, rises in the Twelve Pins Mountains, passes through Ballynahinch Lake, and after a short but rapid course empties itself into Birterbuy Bay.

The lakes are numerous. Lough Corrib extends from Galway town northwards over 30,000 acres, and embraces a coast of fifty miles in extent, affording a large scope for inland navigation. It communicates with the sea by the Galway river, but as its level is 13 feet above high-tide mark, the fall is such as to prevent a water passage by the river from the bay to the lake. A former attempt made to connect them by a canal having failed, was long pointed out under the name of Lynch's Folly; but the whole extent of Loughs Corrib and Mask are now being made navigable to the sea at Galway. The lake is studded with many islands, some of them thickly inhabited. Near it is Lake Ross, which, with some smaller lakes, receives a large supply of water from streams, but has no visible outlet. In Connemara are a number of lakes extending nearly 20 miles from Lough Corrib to the sea, besides several others in other parts. About 25 of these are more than a mile in length each, and there are upwards of 100 of smaller dimensions extending almost the whole length of Connemara. "It was impossible to cast the eye over the vast inclined plains of bog-land, skirted by fine water levels, which seemed to invite draining, without feeling a conviction of the immense capabilities of this part of Ireland; and seeing, in prospective, these vast tracts bearing abundant produce—and the chains of lochs carrying that produce—on the one side to Lough Corrib and Galway Bay, and on the other to Birterbuy Bay, or one of the other bays which lie to the westward."—Inglis.

Lough Rea, at the town of the same name, is more remarkable for scenic beauty than extent. Besides these perennial lakes, there are several low tracts which are covered with water during a great part of the year; they are called Turloughs. The largest is Turloughmore, extending from Tuam nearly to Clare Galway. Another of large size is near Rahassane. A few sheep are grazed on them during four months in summer, but they are unprofitable in winter. They are, however, mostly of easy drainage, and some of them have already been drained, whilst others are now undergoing the process.

Galway enjoys the advantage of a very extended line of coast, sea-coast, indented by numerous and safe harbours, rarely used except by a few coasting and fishing vessels. Commencing at the coast of Mayo in the north are the Killeries, two bays which separate the counties of Galway and Mayo. The first bay on the western coast capable of accommodating large ships is Ballynakill, sheltered by Truchelaun or Heath Island. Next in succession is Cleggan Bay, having Ennisbofin in its offing. Streamstown is a narrow inlet, within which are the inhabited islands of Tarbert and Inisturk. Ardber harbour divides itself into two inlets, the northern of which is terminated by the town of Clifden, with excellent anchorage opposite the castle; the southern inlet has also good anchorage within the bar, and has a good salmon-fishery. Mannin Bay, though large, is much exposed, and but little frequented by shipping. From Slyne Head the coast turns eastward to Roundstone Bay, having its entrance protected by the islands of Innisnee and Innishtacken; here the whole British navy could lie in safety. Next in order is Birterbuy Bay, studded with islands, islets, and rocks, but deep and safe. Between it and Kilkerrin Bay are the islands of Mason, Mynish, and Fynish, all inhabited; Elamacadar, and Cruanakeely which was used as a deer park by Mr Martin of Ballynahinch. Kilkerrin Bay, the largest on this coast, has a most productive kelp shore of nearly 100 miles, including its islands of Anaghvane, Garomna, Lettermore, Lettermullen, Knappagh, and Furnish, yet its mouth is but eight miles broad. Between Garomna and the main-land is Greatman's Bay, and close to it Costello Bay, the most eastern of those in Connemara. Next is the bay and harbour of Galway. At the Oranmore the coast turns southwards, and presents the harbours of Rynville, Ardfry, Ballynacourty, Stradbally, Killeen or New Arran, Kinvarra, and Duras, where the county joins that of Clare. The whole of this coast, from Greatman's Bay eastward, together with the northern shore of Clare, to Blackhead, is comprehended in the Bay of Galway, the entrance of which is protected by the three limestone islands of Arran, Innishere, Ennismain, and Arranmore, forming a distinct barony, and remarkable as well for many relics of ancient pagan and monastic institutions, as for the singular mode of life of the inhabitants, who are partly agriculturists and partly fishermen, wholly uncivilized, very ignorant and superstitious, and are occasionally reduced to great distress.

The climate, though most variable, and exposed to frequent and violent gales from the west, is mild and salubrious. The country is subject to no diseases except those incident to a population not attentive to domestic neatness, and frequently in a state of great destitution. Frost or snow seldom remains long on the western coast, and cattle of every description continue unhoused during the winter.

The boundary line between the limestone and granitic Geology. Galway district is easily discernible by the diminution of the verdant hue which marks the latter. The high road from Galway to Oughterard nearly marks the division. All the country to the north and east of this limit is limestone, all to the south and west granite, excepting some detached masses of primitive limestone between Oughterard and Clifden, and some scattered portions of other minerals, of great variety of appearance. The component rock of Bibernola is quartz, in general distinctly stratified, or at least schistose. The position of its beds is various. Towards the western shore they are vertical, easily splitting by intervening mica plates, and affording good building stone. Limestone occurs in some places along the foot of these mountains, where also is some green serpentine, which is conveyed to Galway and elsewhere for ornamental purposes. Round the basis of this group are also gneiss and mica slate, with bands of hornblende and primitive mica. Along the north side of Lough Corrib to Ballynakill the mica slate and hornblende rise into mountains, and the limestone disappears. From Lough Mask to the Killeries is a transition country of greenstone and gneisswacke slate, covered by the old red sandstone or conglomerate. The hill of Glan on the shore of Lough Corrib exhibits, in a small compass, all the formations which occur in the district. The western end is quartz; the north-eastern side mica slate; the middle is penetrated by beds of mica slate containing hornblende and granular mica covered by thick beds of pyritous greenstone. On the south and east are granite and syenite, which runs under the sandstone, conglomerate towards Oughterard, and this again passes under the flextz limestone, which, passing Lough Corrib, occupies the greater part of Connaught and Leinster. Along the borders of the flextz limestone is a series of vast caverns, usually traversed by subterraneous rivers, a phenomenon which, though not of unfrequent occurrence in limestone countries, is peculiarly striking here. The succession of the stratified rocks may be distinctly seen at the water-fall at Oughterard. A fine gritstone, highly valued for making mill-stones, is raised near Dunmore. Crystalline sand, of a superior quality for scythe boards, occurs at Lough Coutra. Lead, zinc, copper, sulphur, ore, mundic, and bismuth, have been discovered in various parts of the western division of the county. Iron was raised at Woodford, and smelted until the timber was exhausted. The mountains of Slieveboaghta, which separate Galway from Clare, are siliceous. A beautiful black marble, without spots or flaws, and susceptible of a high polish, is raised near the town of Galway in large quantities, particularly for chimney-pieces. Mineral spas, mostly chalybeate, are abundant. That at Kingston was pronounced by Kirwan to be one of the best in Europe. At the village of Quoile is a well which instantly kills poultry that drink of it. A spa at Oughterard draws many invalids to that town. Others at Athenry, Woodbrook, Rathglass, Killimore, and Abbert, are prized in their respective neighbourhoods.

The inhabitants of Galway are not distinguished by any striking peculiarities from those of the rest of the province. On the settlement of Ireland after the Restoration, such of the native Irish as had been allowed to possess property were removed from other provinces and compelled to exchange their properties for lands in Connaught supposed to be of equal value with those they were forced to surrender. They were also prohibited from settling in any of the corporate towns, or within a mile of the sea-coast, the boundary of which was called the mile-line. Thus cooped up, and deprived of all opportunities of intermixing with strangers, it is not surprising that they have retained many peculiarities of appearance and manners. These peculiarities, however, are not confined to this county.

The population of the county has been stated as follows by the under-cited authorities:

| Year | Population | |------|------------| | 1762 | De Burgo | | | | | 1792 | Beaumont | | | | | 1818 | Parliamentary return | | 1821 | Do | | 1831 | Do |

In 1841 the population was 440,198, the excess in the number of females being 1070, whilst in 1851 the total population was only 321,230, and the number of females preponderated by 7270.

Notwithstanding its great extent and proportionate population, the county sent but eight members to the Irish parliament; two for the county at large, and two each for the boroughs of Galway, Athenry, and Tuam. By the Act of Union the number of borough members was reduced to three, two for the county and one for the town of Galway. By the Reform Act this number was increased to four; the county and town now returning two members each. The constituency previously to the disfranchisement of the forty-shilling freeholders was the most numerous of any county in Ireland. The changes produced on its numbers by the Catholic Relief Act, and by the Reform Act, &c., will best appear by the following table:

| Year | L50 | L20 | L10 | 6½ | Total | |------|-----|-----|-----|----|-------| | 1820 | 828 | 274 | 950 | 32,055 | 34,107 | | 1830 | 897 | 259 | 1812 | ... | 3,008 | | 1831 | 326 | 191 | 2540 | ... | 3,657 | | 1833 | ... | ... | ... | ... | 3,344 |

From the population returns of 1821, and those of the commissioners of education in 1824–26, the state of education was as follows:

| Year | Boys | Girls | Sex ascertain'd | Total | |------|------|------|----------------|-------| | 1821 | 7,690 | 3,161 | ... | 10,851 | | 1824–26 | 11,874 | 6,487 | 463 | 18,824 |

Of the number of pupils stated in the latter return, 1471 were of the Established church, and 17,090 Roman Catholics. The number of children attending public schools in 1841 was, in rudimental schools 9046 males, and 5691 females; in superior schools 424 males, and 170 females—total 15,331. In 1853 there were 174 national schools in operation, attended by 21,572 children; 10,537 males, and 11,035 females. The proportion of Protestants to Catholics, estimated from the relative numbers of the children of each persuasion receiving scholastic instruction in 1824, was as 1 to 11¾ nearly.

The eastern part of the county produces the best wheat, production of which requires the preparatory culture of oats and potatoes. Oats are frequently sown after potatoes in moory soils less adapted for wheat. Manure is generally abundant, but most so in the western districts, which do not admit the growth of wheat. The flat shores of the bays there are formed of coralline sand, and the sea-weed thrown up after storms affords a copious supply of vegetable manure. Lime-stone, gravel, and marl is to be had in most other parts. When a sufficient quantity of manure for potatoes cannot be had, the usual practice is to pare and burn the surface. Potatoes are still planted in ridges by the small farmers, who make much use of spade culture, particularly in the upland districts, where the ruggedness of the surface is unfavourable to the application of the plough. In many places on the sea-shore fine early potatoes are raised in deep sea-sand, manured with sea-weed, and the crop is succeeded by barley. The fences most in use are formed of the stones collected from the surface, and raised to the height of five or six feet in dry walls, broad at the base, and narrowing upwards. According to the returns of the census commissioners of the year 1841, the county of Galway was then divided into 44,393 farms of various dimensions, viz. 28,006 of from 1 to 5 acres, 12,677 from 5 to 15 acres, 2032 from 15 to 30 acres, and 1678 of greater extent. The estimated total value of the aggregate live stock at the same period upon the whole of these farms was £1,050,431. The number of holdings of each description in the county of Galway in the years 1852 and 1853 was—

| Farms | Not exceeding 1 acre | From 1 to 2 acres | From 2 to 4 acres | From 4 to 6 acres | From 6 to 10 acres | From 10 to 20 acres | From 20 to 30 acres | From 30 to 50 acres | From 50 to 100 acres | From Above 100 acres | |-------|---------------------|-------------------|------------------|------------------|-------------------|-------------------|-------------------|-------------------|-------------------|-------------------| | 1852 | 2,373 | 6,010 | 11,996 | 7,919 | 3,051 | 2,020 | 1,135 | 788 | 250 | | | 1853 | 2,335 | 5,713 | 11,931 | 7,551 | 3,128 | 2,138 | 1,239 | 812 | 250 | | | Difference in 1853 | -38 | -297 | -65 | +300 | +77 | +79 | +113 | +16 | +75 | |

From this return it appears that 400 small holdings were absorbed in the larger description of farms, which increased in one year 720 in number. This increase, however, could not have arisen entirely out of the consolidation of 400 farms of small extent, but must have been mainly caused by the addition of tracts of mountain-land hitherto returned as "unteneanted bog and waste," and shows an increase in the extent of cultivated land, which amounted in 1852 to 229,421 acres, and in 1853 to 235,257 acres, being an increase of 5,836 acres brought into cultivation. The extent of each class of crops cultivated was—

| Crops | Beans, and Peas | Potatoes | Turnips, Mangold, Rutabagas, Carrots, and Parsnips | Cabbage, Yeast, and other green crops | Flax | Meadow, Clover, and Rape | |-------|-----------------|----------|--------------------------------------------------|--------------------------------------|------|-------------------------| | 1852 | 112,684 | 41,956 | 17,450 | 1,988 | 546 | 55,409 | | 1853 | 113,397 | 46,134 | 19,502 | 2,023 | 784 | 53,417 | | Difference in 1853 | +713 | +4,768 | +2,052 | +57 | +238 | -1,992 |

The cultivation of wheat, which in 1847 occupied 33,523 acres, had declined in 1853 to 13,731 acres; the cultivation of barley has also decreased, but a considerable increase has taken place in the amount of other crops cultivated, especially potatoes, beans, peas, and green crops. The total produce of potato, cereal, and other crops, with the proportion which they bore to the population in 1853, was as follows:—

| Crops | Beans, and Peas | Average per head | Potatoes | Average per head | |-------|-----------------|------------------|----------|------------------| | Tons | Lbs. | Barrels | Stones | | Galway | 86,895 | 605 | 2,449,432| 152 | | All Ireland | 2,046,794 | 700 | 45,332,901| 146 |

Live stock. The quantity of live stock in the county has rapidly increased of late years, as will appear by the following return for the five years from 1849 to 1853.

| Years | Horses | Mules and Asses | Cattle | Sheep | Pigs | Goats | Poultry | Total Value | |-------|--------|-----------------|--------|-------|------|-------|---------|-------------| | 1849 | 22,258 | 10,410 | 98,707 | 244,912| 22,725| 8,655 | 246,088 | 1,134,636 | | 1850 | 22,290 | 11,237 | 105,803| 257,324| 26,378| 9,419 | 276,528 | 1,252,558 | | 1851 | 23,085 | 12,490 | 115,585| 327,697| 36,478| 11,711| 326,019 | 1,375,706 | | 1852 | 24,347 | 13,329 | 127,003| 385,256| 38,953| 16,270| 355,943 | 1,539,031 | | 1853 | 25,916 | 13,714 | 130,497| 465,430| 41,403| 16,632| 410,109 | 1,718,233 |

Markets. The chief markets for grain are Galway, Loughrea, Tuam, Ballinasloe, Gort, Eyrecourt, and Mount Bellew. The great cattle fair of Ballinasloe is held annually in October, and large numbers of sheep and horned cattle are offered for sale; the prices obtained here exercising an extensive influence upon those in other markets throughout the kingdom. Flour-mills are numerous. Those parts of the eastern district less fitted for grain are employed in pasturage. Healthy sheep-walks occupy a very large tract between Monivea and Galway. An extensive range from Athenry, stretching to Galway Bay at Kinvarra, is also chiefly occupied by sheep.

Manufactures are not carried beyond the demand caused by the domestic consumption of the people. Coarse friezes, tares, flannels, and blankets are made in all parts, and sold largely in Galway and Longhrea. Connemara has been long celebrated for its woollen stockings. They are knit by the hand, and have a softness and elasticity, caused by the fineness of the wool used, superior to that of the woven article; but they are slight, and therefore stand but little wear. Coarse linen, of a narrow breadth, called bundle linen, is also made for home consumption. The manufacture of finer linens and diapers has been attempted, but with little success. The manufacture of kelp, introduced about the year 1700, was formerly one of the great sources of profit on the western shores, and is still to some extent carried on. Of the minor manufactures, marble is wrought for domestic and sepulchral purposes in Galway. Felt hats and coarse straw bonnets are made in several places. Feathers are brought in great quantities from the islands of Arran, where collectors they are procured from the puffins and other sea-fowl that frequent the cliffs on the coasts. They are caught by men trained to the practice, who are let down at night from the projecting crags above, by means of a rope tied round their waist, to the haunts of the birds; and after supplying themselves with all they can capture, they are hauled up again in the morning. Sea fowls' eggs are collected in large quantities in the same manner.

Amongst the relics of antiquity are the round towers of Ardrahan, Ballygaddy, Kilbannon, Kilmacduagh, Meelick, and Murrough. The last-named of these is of very small dimensions; that of Kilmacduagh, which is still fifty feet high, inclines seventeen feet from the perpendicular. Raths are numerous, and several cromlechs are still to be seen in good preservation. The ruins of monastic buildings are also numerous. That of Knockmoy, about six miles from Tuam, said to have been founded in 1180 by Cathal O'Connor, was adorned with rude fresco paintings, which are still discernible, and were considered valuable by antiquaries as being the best authentic representations existing of ancient Irish costumes. Ancient castles and square towers of the Anglo-Norman settlers are very numerous; some have been kept in repair, and are still inhabited; but the greater number are in ruins. The castle of Tuam, built in 1161 by Roderic O'Connor, king of Ireland at the period of the English invasion, is said to have been the first building of this description of stone and mortar in Ireland. The remains of a round castle, a form of building very uncommon in the military architecture of the country, is to be seen between York and Kilmacduagh.

county town, formerly designated the Liber- Galway ties of Galway, and a county in itself, having an exclusive town, local jurisdiction, extending two miles on every side except the south. It stands on the northern shore of the Bay of Galway, on the eastern bank of the river of the same name, and is inclosed on the land side by the baronies of Clare, Dunkellin, and Moycullen. It is supposed by some to be the Nagnata of Ptolemy. It certainly was considered a position of much importance from the earliest period, as in the divisions of the island into north and south, at first made by the descendants of Heremen, and afterwards repeated by Conn and Eogan, it was fixed upon as the eastern extremity of the line of demarcation, which proceeded eastwards to Dublin. Little, however, is known of it until after the arrival of the English, at which time it was under the protection of O'Flaherty, who possessed the adjoining district to the west. On the extinction of the native dynasty of the O'Connors, the town fell into the hands of the De Burgos, the head of a branch of which, under the name of William Eighter, long governed it by magistrates of his own appointment. After it had been secured by walls, which Galway began to be built in 1270, it became the residence of a number of enterprising settlers, through whom it attained a position of much commercial celebrity. Of these settlers the principal families, fourteen in number, are still known by the name of the Tribes of Galway. Their names are preserved in the following distich:

Athy, Blake, Bodkin, Browne, Deane, Darcy, Lynch, Joyce, Kirwan, Martin, Morris, Skerrett, French.

The tribe, whose name is not included in the rhyme, was called Ffiont. With the exception of Athy and Kirwan, all these families were of Norman, Saxon, or Welsh descent. They became so closely connected by intermarriages, that dispensations were frequently requisite for the canonical legality of marriages among them. Sir Olivier St John, describing Connaught in 1641, says, that "the merchants (of Galway) are rich, and great adventurers at the sea; their commonalty is composed of the descendants of the ancient English families of the town, and rarely admit any new English among them, and never any of the Irish." The town rapidly increased from this period in wealth and commercial rank, in this respect far surpassing the rival city of Limerick. Richard II. granted it a charter of incorporation with liberal privileges, which was confirmed by his successor. It had the right of coinage by act of parliament; but there is no evidence to show that it exercised the privilege.

Another charter, granted in 1545, extended the jurisdiction of the port to the islands of Arran, permitted the exportation of all kinds of goods except linens and woollens, and confirmed all the former privileges. Large numbers of Cromwell's soldiers are said to have settled here; and there are many traces of Spanish blood among the population.

The commercial prosperity of the town, which had been steadily advancing under the protecting favour of the government, received its first check by an unfavourable decision of the Court of Chancery respecting the prissage of wine; a toll paid by every sea-port to the head of the Ormond family, in right of his office of chief butler to the king, and from the payment of which Galway claimed exemption. Wine was the great staple of commerce. The payment of prissage, which consisted of two pipes of wine from every vessel discharging at the port, was a heavy drawback upon its profits. But soon after, its municipal privileges were extended by a charter from James I., whereby the town, and a district of two miles round in every direction, were formed into a distinct county, with exclusive jurisdiction and a right of choosing its own magistrates. During the civil wars of 1641, the town took part with the Irish, and was surrendered on articles to the parliamentary forces under Sir Charles Coote; after which the ancient inhabitants were mostly driven out, and their property was given to adventurers and soldiers, chiefly from England. On the accession of James II. the old inhabitants entertained sanguine hopes of recovering their former rights. But the successes of King William soon put an end to their expectations; and the town, after undergoing another siege, again capitulated to the force brought against it by General de Ginkel, on condition of a safe conduct for the garrison to Limerick, pardons and the protection of property and civil rights to the townsmen, and the free exercise of their religion in private.

The penal statutes passed by Queen Anne against the Roman Catholics rendered the latter clause of the capitulation nugatory, and exposed that portion of the population which stood in need of protection to much persecution, particularly on the breaking out of the rebellions of 1715 and 1745 in Scotland. In the beginning of the present century the walls were thrown down, and buildings erected on their site. Several streets have also been carried out eastwards, to which the name of the New Town is given.

Galway is governed by the high sheriff, recorder, local magistrates, and a board of twenty-four commissioners, elected triennially, who have charge of the property of the town arising from tolls, amounting to about £2000 per annum, besides harbour dues, which are chiefly applied to the repair of the pier, dock-gates, &c. The right of returning members was exercised at an early period. By the Act of Union the number of its representatives was reduced to one; but the second member was restored by the Reform Act. The population in 1821 amounted to 27,775, and in 1831 it had increased to 33,120; in 1841 it had diminished to 17,275, and in 1851 risen to 23,695.

In its ecclesiastical arrangements the town formed part Ecclesiastical of the ancient diocese of Enniscrone or Annaghdown, which tial ar- was incorporated in 1324 with the archdiocese of Tuam. But in 1458 it was erected into an exempt jurisdiction by the name of the wardenship of Galway, to be governed by a warden and eight vicars, chosen by the inhabitants under the authority of the bull of Pope Innocent. In 1486 one of the chief merchants of the town built part of the college-house for the wardens and vicars; and soon afterwards the parishes of Furammore, Moycullen, Skreen, and Ballenclare were united to the wardenship by William Joyce, a native of the town and archbishop of Tuam. At the Reformation it was deprived of much of its property; and since that time there have been two wardens, one nominated by the Protestant members of the corporation, and a Catholic, chosen by the ancient inhabitants or tribes.

The town, which is old-fashioned and crowded, without any good streets, and with very few good houses, is situated on the extremity of a projecting neck of land, rising with a gentle acclivity on both sides of the river Corrib, which connects Lough Corrib with the sea. The space within the walls formed an oval of about 3426 square perches. Some of the streets are very narrow, and contain some curious specimens of old buildings, chiefly in the antique Spanish fashion, being square, with a court in the centre, and a gateway opening into the street. St Nicholas' Church is the most remarkable building in the town. It is cruciform, 152 feet long by 126 broad, with a steeple rising over the nave, and the side aisles separated from the centre by Gothic pillars. There are several antique monuments in it. The exchange, or tholsel, near the church, consists of an open corridor, 90 feet long by 28 broad, with a front of arches supporting an upper story, in which are apartments for holding their own courts, and for other public purposes. The county court-house is an elegant building, with ample accommodation for all the purposes of its erection; and near it are the county and town prisons. The town also contains the county infirmary, the union workhouse, and also a fever hospital. A grammar-school, maintained by the governors of Erasmus Smith's bequest, is in the immediate neighbourhood of the town. The new Queen's College, built of beautiful gray limestone, is an elegant and extensive quadrangular structure in the Tudor Gothic style. Near the college is a new national (model) school. Immense works have long been in progress to connect the navigation of the Bay of Galway with that of the great lakes Corrib and Mask. Extensive new docks have been constructed.

Though much reduced in the scale of mercantile import-ance, it is still an extensive exporting town; the chief arti-commer cles exported being agricultural produce, wool, and marble. Galway is divided into the old and new towns, and the maritime suburb of Claddagh, inhabited almost entirely by fishermen and their families, who have acquired or retained peculiar usages and habits of their own. They marry among one another, and jealously resist the residence of strangers. They were formerly governed by a mayor, elected by themselves, whose only mark of office was the white sail of his boat, and a flag at its mast-head; but to him they paid implicit deference. He regulated the time of the sailing of the fishing fleet, and its movements when at sea. This usage has been discontinued, but the Claddaghites are still governed by their own laws in matters relating to fishing. At home the women are mistresses; the moment the boats' cargoes are unloaded, the whole is transferred to them; they make the sales and spend the produce, their husbands being fully satisfied with the liberal allowance of spirits and tobacco they receive from them; but on their fishing expeditions no ardent spirits are suffered in their boats; their stock then consists solely of potatoes, eaten bread, and water. Their language is Irish, which they speak with a harsh discordant accent. The dress of the men consists of three flannel vests under a fourth of white dimity, a blue rug jacket, and blue plush breeches, blue worsted stockings, a horizontal-brimmed hat, and a red silk neckerchief. Among the women, the matron's dress is a blue mantle, a red body-gown and petticoat, and a silk handkerchief on the head. Unmarried women are known by their muslin caps trimmed with lace. The females of all ages are remarkable for attention to neatness, both in their persons and household. Their religion is almost exclusively Roman Catholic, with but one or two exceptions. The rigid exclusiveness which has hitherto retarded the civilization of this community will in all probability be broken down by the application of improved methods of fishing, together with the introduction of capital consequent upon the opening of the markets by the Midland Great Western Railway, and the operation of the Limited Liabilities Act.

The towns of chief importance after the county town are Tuam, with a population in 1851 of 4938; Loughrea, pop. 6342, situated on the borders of the lake of the same name; Gort, pop. 2405; Ballinasloe, pop. 4063; and the new and beautifully situated town of Clifden.