ORDER OF THE, one of the most ancient and illustrious of the military orders of knighthood, was instituted by Edward III. of England, and dates from about the year 1350, though some writers refer its institution to 1344. Its origin is variously related. The common account is, that the Countess of Salisbury happened at a ball to drop her garter, and that the king took it up and presented it to her, at the same time exclaiming, *Honi soit qui mal y pense*, in reference to the smiles which he observed the action had excited among some of the bystanders; adding, "that shortly they should see that garter advanced to so high an honour and renown as to account themselves happy to wear it." In the opinion of some authorities, however, the motto of the order has reference to Edward's claim to the kingdom of France, and means that he retorted shame and defiance upon those who should dare to think amiss of the just enterprise he had undertaken for the recovery of his lawful right to that crown; and that the bravery of those knights whom he had elected into this order would enable him to maintain the quarrel against those who thought ill of it. Camden, Fern, and others, suppose it to have been instituted on occasion of the victory obtained by the Black Prince over the French at Cressy. That prince, say some historians, ordered his garter to be displayed as a signal of battle; and in commemoration thereof he made a garter the principal ornament of the order. In Rastell's Chronicle it is stated that this order was devised by Richard I. at the siege of Acre, when he is said to have caused twenty-six knights to wear thongs of blue leather about their legs, and that it was perfected in the 19th year of Edward III.

The number of knights companions was originally twenty-six, including the sovereign, who is chief of the order; but in 1786 a statute was passed to the effect that this number should be irrespective of princes of the royal family, and illustrious foreigners on whom the honour might be conferred. Their total number at present (1855) is thirty-eight. This order holds the highest rank among the British orders of knighthood. Its officers are a prelate, chancellor, registrar, king-at-arms, and usher of the black rod, besides others of inferior rank. At their head is the prelate, who is always the Bishop of Winchester; next is the chancellor, who, till 1837, was the Bishop of Salisbury, but is now the Bishop of Oxford, in consequence of Berkshire, and of course Windsor, being transferred to that diocese. The Dean of Windsor is registrar *ex officio*. The fourth officer is garter and king-at-arms, which are two distinct offices united in one person. The garter carries the rod and sceptre at the feast of St George (the protector of the order) when the sovereign is present; he notifies the election of new knights, attends the solemnity of their installation, carries the garter to foreign princes and others, and he is the principal officer of the college of arms and chief of the heralds. (See King-at-Arms.) All these officers, except the prelate, have fees and pensions. The chapter meet annually on St George's day (23rd April) in St George's chapel, Windsor, where the installations take place, and the knights' banners are suspended. The habit and insignia are the garter, of blue velvet, and inscribed with the motto "*Honi soit qui mal y pense*," worn below the left knee; the mantle, of blue velvet; the hood and surcoat of crimson velvet; the hat of black velvet; the collar of gold; the george, or figure of St George, suspended from a broad dark blue ribbon; the star of silver.

The Garter challenges pre-eminence over all the other parts of the dress, for from it the noble order received its denomination. It is the first part of the habit presented to foreign princes and absent knights, and that wherewith they and all other knights elect are first adorned. The mantle is the chief of the vestments made use of upon all solemn occasions. The length of the train of the mantle distinguishes the sovereign from the knights companions. To the collar of the mantle is fixed a pair of long strings, anciently woven with blue silk only, but now twisted round, and made of Venice gold and silk, of the colour of the robes, with knobs or buttons, and tassels at the end. The left shoulder of the mantle has from the institution been adorned with a large garter, with the device. Within this is the cross of the order, which was ordained to be worn at all times by Charles I. At length the star was introduced, which is a sort of cross irradiated with beams of silver. The collar is appointed to be composed of pieces of gold in fashion of garters, the ground enamelled blue, and the motto gold. When the knights wear not their robes, they are to have a silver star on the left side; and they commonly bear the picture of St George, enamelled on gold, and set with diamonds, suspended by a dark blue riband, crossing the body from the left shoulder.

The garter, at the time of election, is buckled upon the left leg by two of the senior companions, who receive it from the sovereign (to whom it has previously been presented upon a velvet cushion by the Garter king-at-arms), with the usual reverence, whilst the chancellor reads the admonition enjoined by the statutes. The garter being then buckled on, and the word of its signification pronounced, the knight-elect kneels before the sovereign, "who puts about his neck a dark blue riband, to which is appended, wrought in gold within the garter, the image of St George on horseback, with his sword drawn, encountering the dragon." In the mean time, the chancellor reads the following admonition: "Wear this ribbon about thy neck, adorned with the image of the blessed martyr and soldier of Christ, St George, by whose imitation provoked, thou mayest so overpass both prosperous and adverse encounters, that having stoutly vanquished thy enemies both of body and soul, thou mayest not only receive the praise of this transient combat, but be crowned with the palm of eternal victory."

Then the knight elected kisses the sovereign's hand, and returns thanks for the great honour done him; after which he rises up and salutes all the companions severally, who return their congratulations.

In the beginning of the present century it was estimated that eight emperors and twenty-eight foreign kings, besides numerous sovereign princes, had been enrolled as knights companions of the Order of the Garter. Ashmole has given a very elaborate account of this order. See also the splendid work of Sir H. Nicolas on the Orders of Knighthood.

Garter principal King-at-Arms. See King-at-Arms.

Garter is also a term in heraldry, signifying the moiety or half of a bend.