Home1860 Edition

GHAUTS

Volume 10 · 1,756 words · 1860 Edition

The term Ghaut signifies properly a pass through the mountains, or a place where boats land. But it has been applied to designate the mountainous chains which run in a direction nearly north and south through southern India. These are divided into the Eastern and Western Ghauts. The eastern ridge commences in the south at a point within about 20 miles of Cape Comorin, where it appears to issue from the termination of the Western range. From the point of convergence the Eastern Ghauts take a northerly direction, and may be characterized rather as detached groups and clusters of hills than as a regular range until they reach the latitude of 11° 40', when they assume the character of a continuous chain. The ridge then skirts the coast of Coromandel in a north-westerly direction to the vicinity of the city of Madras. At Naggery, in Lat. 13° 20', it forms a junction with the chain which crosses the peninsula in a south-westerly direction to the Neighberries, where, according to some authorities, the point of junction between the two great ranges of Coromandel and Malabar should be regarded as taking place, instead of at Comorin as before stated. The course of the Eastern Ghauts north of the point of junction with the transverse range, is continued in a northerly direction, and terminates in the vicinity of Balasore, where they unite with the Vindhya mountains, and thus constitute one side of the triangle on which rests the table-land of the Deccan. In regularity and grandeur the Eastern Ghauts bear no comparison with those of Western India; their average elevation does not exceed 1500 feet. The intermediate table-land has consequently a gradual slope to the eastward, as indicated by the drainage of the country in that direction. All the principal rivers—the Godaverry, Cauvery, Kistna, and Pennaur, though deriving their sources from the base of the Western Ghauts, find their way into the Bay of Bengal through fissures in the Eastern Ghauts. According to Captain Newbold, the mean elevation of the table-land around Bangalore and Nundidroog above the sea is 3000 feet; northerly, towards Hyderabad, it sinks to 1800 feet; and a little south of Bangalore it falls by rather abrupt steps 1400 feet to the level of the plains of Salem; whence to Cape Comorin the mean height of the country is about 400 feet.

The average height of the low country between the Ghauts and the sea, on both the coasts of Coromandel and Malabar, may be roughly estimated at 200 feet, rising at the base of the mountains to 800 feet. On the Coromandel side the slope to the sea is gentle, exhibiting the alluvial deposits borne down from the higher portions of the table-land. Granite, gneiss, and mica slate, overlaid by clay slate and hornblende, constitute the geological strata of these mountains.

**Ghauts, Western.** This great chain of mountains runs along the peninsula of Hindustan, from Cape Comorin to the Taptee or Surat river, at the distance of not more than 60 or 70 miles, and in some places not above 40 from the western shore of the Indian peninsula, namely, the coasts of Malabar, Canara, &c.; and they are frequently visible from the sea, to which at one point they approach within six miles. By this peculiar configuration of the country all the great rivers of the peninsula of India run down the eastern slope of these mountains into the Bay of Bengal, there not being sufficient space for the collection of any great body of water on the western declivity, which is of greater elevation, and more abrupt in its ascent. These hills extend about 800 miles in length, forming a continuous line, with the exception of a break in the ridge about 16 miles wide, where the river Paniyani takes its course from the Coimbatore country to the sea; and here it is well known that ships which navigate the Malabar coast during the N.E. monsoons commonly experience a stronger gale in the neighbourhood of Paniyani than elsewhere—a circumstance which Major Rennell ascribes to this opening in the Ghaut Mountains. The range has an average height of 4000 feet above the level of the sea; but this degree of elevation is considerably exceeded at particular points, Bonasson peak being 7000 feet above the sea-level, and that of Dodabet in the Neighberries having an elevation of 8700. At the extreme south near Cape Comorin, and at the point of convergence with the range from the opposite coast, the Western Ghauts terminate abruptly in a peak about 2000 feet above the sea. The average height of the low country between the Western Ghauts and the sea may be roughly estimated at 200 feet, rising to 800 at the base of the mountains. This tract, which is called the Coast of Malabar, is marked by a succession of irregular hilly spurs, from the Ghauts descending to the sea in abrupt cliffs. The altitude of this mountain chain is sufficient to intercept the great body of the clouds which are alternately impelled across the continent of India by the S.W. and N.E. monsoons; and accordingly these winds occasion a rainy season on one side of the mountains only, so that while the periodical rains are deluging the country on one side, the weather is serene and dry on the other. But it is only a particular tract of country that is sheltered from rain by the ridge of the Ghauts; for the clouds do pass over, but at too great a height and too much attenuated to be condensed into rain. At a greater distance, however, they collect into masses, and occasion a rainy reason in the countries farther to leeward. Thus, at Nagpoor, in the centre of the Deccan, the seasons differ but little from their usual course in Bengal and on the western side of India. They have a rainy season occasioned by the S.W. monsoon, though it is not so violent as in Bengal. At the mouth of the Godavary, and in the neighbourhood, the S.W. monsoon occasions a rainy season, when the Godavary is swollen and overflows; and this country is about the same distance to leeward of the Ghauts as Nagpoor.

Major Rennell suggests that the clouds which occasion the rainy season at the mouth of the Godavary may come from Cape Comorin, though from the prevalence of westerly winds this appears doubtful. But it is certain that the clouds which bring rain at Nagpoor must pass over the Ghauts. Madras lies in the sheltered tract, though at least 300 miles to leeward of the Ghauts. The country near the mouth of the Godavary is about 200 miles further. It would be curious, if we had facts for such a speculation, to trace the limits between wet and dry, and thus to ascertain the influence which this elevated and extensive mountain chain exercises on the climate of the Indian peninsula; but without fuller and more minute information we can scarcely enter into such an inquiry.

The Western Ghauts, about the fifteenth degree of north latitude, although they are steep and stony, are by no means rugged or broken with rocks. On the contrary, in the Province of Canara the stones are buried in a rich mould, and in many places are not visible until they are dug up. Thus, instead of the naked, sun-burnt, rocky peaks, so common in the eastern chain, these mountains are clothed with stately forests. Dr Buchanan mentions that he had nowhere seen finer trees, nor any bamboos that could be compared to those he saw there. These bamboos compose a large part of the forest; they grow in detached clumps, with open spaces between, and equal in height the most stately palms, which are also found in great abundance. There is no underwood nor creepers to interrupt the traveller who may choose to wander in any direction through these woods. But there are numerous tigers, which, besides the unhealthiness of the climate, renders any long stay there uncomfortable. About midway up the mountain the teak becomes common; but it is very inferior in size to other trees. Roads have been formed through these mountains with great labour, out of a bed of loose rock. These roads are ploughed up by torrents during the rainy season, which wash away their softer parts, and leave single rocks of four or five feet diameter standing in the centre. The difficulty formerly experienced in penetrating these mountain passes was very great. In 1791, when the Bombay army was advancing to the Mysore through the Poodicherry pass, it required two days to draw up twenty light field-pieces two miles, and three weeks to bring up the other artillery to the top of the Ghauts.

**GHAZEEPORE,** a town of Hindustan, and the capital of the district of the same name, situated within the jurisdiction of the lieutenant-governor of the north-western provinces. The town is built on the left bank of the Ganges, which is here crossed by ferry, and, according to Bishop Heber, is as wide as the Hooghly in the vicinity of Calcutta. At the eastern extremity of the town is the palace of Meer Cossim Ali, the Nawab of Bengal, who rendered himself infamous by the massacre of his British prisoners. The building is at present a custom-house, its numerous apartments being converted into store-rooms and habitations for the guards and officials. At the west end of the town are the military cantonments; and in their vicinity is the cenotaph monument to Lord Cornwallis, who died here in 1805. A government stud is maintained close to the town, and the races annually held here are reckoned among the best in India. According to the census of 1853, the population of the town amounts to 38,573.

The district, of which this town is the chief place, embraces an area of 2181 square miles. It is one of the most fertile districts in India, remarkably well supplied with water, being bounded and traversed by several noble rivers, among which are the Ganges, Gogra, Karamnassa, and Tons. Besides grain of all kinds, it produces cotton and sugar, as well as opium and very fine indigo; and it has long been celebrated for its attar of roses and rose water. The entire population is returned at 1,596,324, of whom 1,488,085 are Hindus and 158,239 Mohammedans. Ghazeeport, with other territory, was ceded to the East India Company in 1775 by the Vizier of Oude. The town of Ghazeeport is in Lat. 25° 32', Long. 83° 39'.