Home1860 Edition

LIMA

Volume 13 · 1,438 words · 1860 Edition

the capital of Peru, is situate on the banks of the Rímac, in S. Lat. 12. 2., and in W. Long. 77. 8. 30., distant 6 miles from Callao by railway. It stands on a large and arid plain, fertilized only by irrigation, and rising gradually from Callao, on the shores of the Pacific. The general appearance of the city is imposing, when viewed from a short distance, the spires and domes glitter gaily in the sun, and the rich Moorish architecture fills the traveller with admiration. But on a nearer inspection the effect is somewhat disappointing. For although the public buildings are handsome, and the streets distinguished by great regularity, most of the houses are low and irregularly built. The walls are composed of mud bricks, and the roofs chiefly of planks of wood, on rafters that are often curiously carved, above which is a cane-matting, and a thin coat of plaster or mud, sometimes overlaid with flat tiles, on which they have their gardens of flowers, and shrubs in pots, &c. The houses of the poor in the suburbs have flat cane roofs covered with cane-matting and mud plaster. A singular feature is the stream of water, intended to carry away all refuse from the streets and houses, which runs down the centre of those streets that pass lengthwise through the city. It is let on early in the morning, and at night is turned off into the fields and orchards. Lima is entered by six gates; and the principal Alameda, an avenue of great beauty on the Callao road, is one of the finest approaches. The Plaza Mayor, or great square, is adorned with a splendid fountain, and is one of the principal business localities. On the north side of the square is the ancient palace of the Spanish viceroy, but now of the president of Peru. The side of it which fronts the square is certainly not remarkable for its beauty, having a range of small shops, above which are several of the state offices. On the east side are the archbishop's palace and the fine cathedral. On the other two sides there is a range of colonnades, with commodious shops, and a tesselated pavement, over which are the long balconies of the houses supported by them. The town-hall (cabildo) is one of the buildings supported by the colonnades on the west side; and the old palace of Pizarro (which is entered from the Callejon of Petatros) is, on the south side, not to be distinguished outwardly in any way from the adjacent balconied dwellings of the inhabitants. Besides the Alameda, to which reference has been made, there are two others, one of which possesses an immense amphitheatre for bull-fighting, capable of accommodating not less than 16,000 spectators.

The churches and convents of Lima are very numerous Second in importance to the cathedral, is the convent of San Francisco, an establishment which occupies a large extent of ground. The church of St Domingo has a magnificent tower about 180 feet high. These monastic establishments have been much reduced in number since the revolution. Those which remain, however, are rich in gold and jewellery. In 1821 an immense mass of silver was taken from them and devoted to the necessities of the state; and in 1853 they have been plundered of valuable pictures of the Spanish school. The total number of churches now remaining is 56; 5 of which are parish churches, and many of them are attached to convents.

Of educational establishments, we may especially instance the University of San Carlos; and the National Museum, which has an admirable library of about 26,000 volumes; and a separate department, well stocked with Peruvian antiquities. This institution was, at one time, the most important in S. America. There are also various colleges appropriated to theology, jurisprudence, and medicine; and, in connection with the latter of these, there is an indifferent botanic garden. The schools are numerous, and tolerably well managed. Of charitable institutions, there are at present three public hospitals for the sick; namely, Sant'Ana, for females; San Andres and San Bartolome for males; one for foundlings, and an asylum for penitent women; besides the hospital for incurables.

Commerce in Lima is often disturbed by revolutions, which interfere with the security of public property, and transit to and from the interior. One-half the whole imports of Peru is from Great Britain; and that to the extent of not less than four or five millions of dollars yearly. The manufactures are of slight importance, consisting chiefly of glass, gold lace, silver filigree, and gilded leather. Although the country in the vicinity is very productive, the indolence of the people is such that they do not improve their advantages. Grapes, water-melons, and a variety of grains and vegetables are produced in great abundance. Immense quantities of live stock are fattened in the neighbourhood; the number of pigs killed for consumption is said to be about 20,000 a-year; and from 300 to 400 sheep, and from 40 to 50 oxen are brought daily into the market. At the corners of some squares old women sit cooking fish and pork, which the lower orders purchase instead of preparing food for themselves at home. The foreign trade of Lima is transacted through its port, Callao; and, indeed, the most of the goods consumed are the produce of other countries.

Like their Spanish ancestors, the people are gay, fond of exciting amusements, and little addicted to intellectual or useful pursuits. Morality is lax among all ranks; and there is a great amount of gambling and other kinds of dissipation. The walking dress of the ladies is only to be met with in this city and in Truxillo. It consists of two parts, called the saya and the manto. The former of these is a tight-fitting, but elastic petticoat, so made that the form of the limbs is distinctly discernible. The manto is a thick veil made of crimped black silk, drawn in by a band behind, and fastened round the waist; but being drawn up over the head, it is made to conceal the greater part of the face, and often the whole of it except one eye. A rich coloured shawl or scarf is sometimes thrown over the shoulders under the manto, so as to hang down nearly to the feet. The tight saya has been of late rather giving place to a looser and more graceful garment of the same kind; and, indeed, the costumes of England and France, which have long been worn by the ladies when within doors, are now becoming common as walking dresses.

The climate of Lima is very agreeable, although, perhaps, somewhat enervating. In winter, the mean temperature is 64° F., and in summer, 77° 6°. A light drizzly mist prevails between May and October, but rain seldom falls. Earthquakes are of frequent occurrence, but the more destructive ones take place at intervals of from fifty to sixty years. In October 1746 a great number of important public buildings and dwelling-houses were destroyed in Lima. The port of Callao was at the same time devastated by the sea; and out of a population of about 5000 inhabitants, only 200, according to Ulloa, escaped.

Lima was founded by Pizarro in 1535, and at that time received the name of Ciudad de los Reyes (the City of the Kings). Since 1537 it has been the capital city of Peru, and the seat of the viceroys. In the sixteenth century it became an archiepiscopal see. The population of Lima is stained with every variety of shade between black and white; and this medley of race is not at all improved by the recent introduction of Chinese to supply the place of the now liberated negro.

The number of inhabitants, at the outbreak of the revolution for independence in Upper Peru, in 1810, was estimated at upwards of 80,000; and in the work of Ledesma, one of the judges of the Superior Court in the capital, published in 1853, he also states the population of Lima as then above 80,000; and, including its sea-port of Callao, and watering-place of Chorrillos, the whole population may be estimated at 100,000. At the close of the war of independence the population of Lima was reduced to about 54,000; but again, during General Castilla's prosperous administration, the capital, which is about 10 English miles in circumference, was rapidly repeopled from the provinces.

In 1854-55, the yellow fever entered for the first time, and carried off its thousands; while in the valleys of the interior, Cuzco, &c., upwards of 200,000 perished by this epidemic.