Home1860 Edition

LUCKNOW

Volume 13 · 945 words · 1860 Edition

a city of Hindustan, and the capital of the province of Oude, situate on the S. bank of the River Goomtir, which is navigable for boats of a common size at all seasons of the year, and falls into the Ganges between Benares and Guzyoor. At the north-western extremity of the city is a bridge, a very noble Gothic edifice of stone; another to the S.E. is formed of boats. A complete iron bridge was, in 1816, sent out from England in sections, but the death of the ruling prince having stayed the progress of the undertaking, it long remained suspended in consequence of the reluctance of the new sovereign to complete a project commenced by a predecessor. At length, after the lapse of about thirty years, the bridge was erected, and now forms a conspicuous ornament of the city. The streets where the lower classes reside consist of mean houses built of clay, "with the filthiest lanes between them," says Bishop Heber, "that I ever went through, and so narrow that we were obliged to reduce our front, and even a single elephant did not pass very easily." "A swarm of beggars," he continues, in the lively description which he gives of the aspect of the town and its population, "occupied every angle, and the steps of every door, and all, or nearly all, the remaining population were, to my surprise, as much loaded with arms as the inhabitants of the country,—a circumstance which told ill for the police of the town, but added considerably to its picturesque effect. Grave men in palanquins, counting their heads, and looking like moulahs, had all two or three sword or buckler lacqueys attending on them. People of more consequence, on their elephants, had each a retinue of shield, spear, and gun, little inferior to that by which we were surrounded; and even the lounging people of the lower ranks in the streets and shop-doors, had their shields over their shoulders, and their swords carried in one hand." Lucknow is a very ancient city. It was the residence of the early governors or nabobs. of Oude, but was abandoned by Shujah and Dowleh after the battle of Buxar; on his death in 1774, however, his successor returned to it, and the bankers and men of property having accompanied the court, Lucknow became one of the largest and richest towns in Hindustan. At the present time the city is represented as displaying a varied, lively, and even brilliant prospect, when viewed from a position elevated above the general height of the buildings.

In advancing into the town from the outskirts above described, the buildings begin to improve, though the streets continue to be equally narrow. Some of the streets are, however, more spacious; and one in particular is mentioned as being both wide and handsome. It is called Chinka Bazar, or Chinese Market, and has at each end a handsome gateway. Heber describes it as wider than the High Street at Oxford, but having some distant resemblance to it in the colour of its buildings and Gothic style of the greater part of them. The bishop adds that Lucknow appeared to have more resemblance to some of the smaller European capitals, such as Dresden, than any other town which he had seen in India. There are several palaces in Lucknow belonging to the late king, but none of them are very striking buildings. There is one close to the British residency, which is merely a cluster of mean houses, with some models of showy architecture intermingled like the offices of a college. There are many stately khans, and some handsome mosques and pagodas, scattered in different corners of the most wretched alleys. The most striking buildings in Lucknow are the tombs of Nawab Saadat Ali and other princes of the dynasty, and the imambarah. The latter building consists of two courts, rising with a steep ascent one above another. It contains, besides a splendid mosque, a college for instruction in Mussulman law; apartments for the religious establishment maintained here; and a noble gallery, in the midst of which, under a brilliant tabernacle of silver, cut glass, and precious stones, lie buried the remains of its founder, Asupul Dowlah. The whole is in a very noble style of eastern Gothic, and is distinguished by richness and variety, as well as by the just proportions and general good taste of its principal features. Amongst the curiosities in the neighbourhood is Constantia, the residence of the late General Martin, who, from being a common soldier, rose to a high rank in the company's army. His house is a large and whimsical building, and the grounds are laid out in the worst possible taste, displaying in the outline and arrangements the eccentric genius of the contriver. His body is deposited in a sarcophagus in one of the lower apartments. A large share of his vast wealth was devoted to charitable purposes; and a college called after the founder "La Martiniere," preserves his memory in the city where his fortune was accumulated and his eccentricities indulged. The population of Lucknow is estimated at 300,000; and Bishop Heber is of opinion that it is sufficiently crowded to contain that number. The city is 650 miles travelling distance from Calcutta, from Delhi 280, from Agra 202, and from Benares 189 miles. E. Long. 81° N. Lat. 26° 51'. The long-continued misgovernment of the territory, of which this place is the capital, compelled the British government at length to assume the administration of public affairs. The king refusing to accede to the proposed conditions, was deposed, and a liberal allowance assigned for his maintenance. (See Oude.) (E.T.)