Home1860 Edition

MERIONETHSHIRE

Volume 14 · 2,179 words · 1860 Edition

the most southern county of North Wales, is situated at the middle of the Welsh coast, and is of a triangular form, the apex terminating between Corwen and Llangollen; the base being formed by Cardigan Bay, with a portion of Carnarvonshire; the perpendicular by Carnarvonshire and Denbighshire; and the hypotenuse by Denbighshire, Montgomeryshire, and Cardiganshire. The length from north to south is 56 miles, and its greatest breadth 32 miles. Its area is estimated at 602 square miles, or 385,291 statute acres.

The coast is iron-bound and dangerous, from shoals and banks, as Sarn-Badrig, Sarn-y-Bwch, Dutchman's Bank, &c. At Aberdowry, however, there is a safe harbour, which might be rendered more so by a little enterprise. Abermaw is another safe creek, though not so safe as Aberdowry. In fine weather large boats can land in Aberdysynwy, Mochras, and Traethbach.

This county, in its physical aspect, is one of the most interesting in the principality; and while inferior to some others in stupendous boldness, it equals any in calm sublimity, and is superior to all in richness, variety, and beauty. Its mountains, though not very lofty, greatly excel in colouring and outline; whilst the greater prevalence of trees, blending harmoniously with fantastic crags, dark deep dells, frowning mountains, smiling vales, a sea-board deeply indented with lake-like estuaries, completes such a scene as can never fail to entrance an eye in sympathy with nature.

The Merionethshire mountains may be ranged in five groups, named after the principal eminence in each:—1st. Moelwyn group (2566 feet), being a spur of Snowdon. 2nd. Arenig group (2809 feet), extending from Festiniog to Bala. 3rd. Rhinog Nauv range (2863 feet), sometimes called Harlech group. 4th. Aran Mawddwy range (2955 feet), extending from Aberdowry to Corwen. 5th. Cadair-Idris group (2914 feet), being a spur of the Aran Mawddwy range, having Craig-yr-Aderyn (i.e., Bird's Rock), one of the most remarkable rocks in the kingdom, appended thereto.

The Dwyryd, the Dwyryd, the Talyllyn, the Mawddach, Festiniog, and the Madawe vales are the most remarkable, and add exceedingly to the exquisite effectiveness of the scenery, permitting a fuller view of the mountains from base to summit than is usually the case in other counties.

The chief rivers are the Dwyryd (Dee), which, emerging from Bala Lake, enters Denbighshire near Corwen, then passing through a slip of Cheshire and Flintshire, expands into a vast estuary of the Irish Sea, separating the two counties. The Dwyryd, originating in a small lake under Aran Mawddwy, expands into an estuary of Cardigan Bay at Aberdowry, and is navigable for 8 miles. The Dinaswy, emerging from Llynmyngil, expands into a small shallow estuary, which contracts into a narrow, tortuous channel as it enters the sea near Sarn-y-Bwch. It is only navigable for boats for 3 or 4 miles.

The Mawddach, issuing from the skirts of Aran Mawddwy, and forming a junction with Llynau-dun and the Wion, expands into a considerable estuary of Cardigan Bay at Abermaw, and is navigable for 8 miles. The Cynval and others, uniting their streams, form a considerable estuary, called Traethbach, at the bottom of the vale of Festiniog, and is navigable for boats only, being fordable at low water. Glaslyn and Dwyryd (or the Eryri) uniting, enter the bay at Porthmadog, where the estuary has been embanked, and a vast district recovered, through the enterprise of the late Mr Madox.

The lakes are small, but numerous, amounting to sixty-four or more. The largest are Llyn Tegid (i.e., Fairy Lake), sometimes called Pimble-mere, near Bala; being 4 miles long and 1 broad, its banks being most picturesque; and Llynmyngil (i.e., the Lake in a Sweet Nook), in the well-known vale of Talyllyn, which, though only a mile long, is perhaps more interesting still, and well deserves its Cambrian name. It is much frequented by anglers, who find Merionethshire ample sport, though the trout is not over delicate. The other lakelets are generally very interesting; both in regard to scenic effect and sport. One of them, Llynecnwythychan, has a snow-white deposit of kaolin or porcelain clay.

A good many fine waterfalls exist, which add greatly to the romantic beauty of the prospect. The most considerable are Rhaeadr-y-Glyn, near Corwen, and Rhaeadr Mawddach and Pistill Caen, near Dolgelley; the latter being 150 feet high.

The prevailing geological formations are iclpatheic trap, porphyry, and other unstratified rocks; whilst the secondary hills are composed of different kinds of schist, interspersed with unstratified eolian. Along the Dee a bluish-gray limestone is found, and white limestone at Corwen. This formation is surrounded by primitive argillaceous slate.

Gold, silver, copper, and lead mines abound, but as yet they have not proved profitable speculations. The extravagant royalty which is demanded by proprietors is a serious bar to mining adventure here. Llyn-y-Pair mine, near Aberdowry, is now very promising, and the mining interest consequently beginning to look upon the county with greater favour. There are extensive deposits of iron, manganese, and other minerals, but royalty and transit expense render their working unprofitable.

The slate quarries of Festiniog and Corris are extensive and most remunerative speculations. In the former at least 3000 persons find constant employment; Mrs Oakley, Lord Palmerston, and Messrs Graves and Holland being the principal proprietors. The most extensive quarry at Corris is that of Aberllefeni, the property of R. D. Jones, Esq. This slate is of a deep blue, of considerable tenacity and hardness, but yet easily worked. It is preferred for roofing important buildings and the manufacture of articles enamelled by Magnus's beautiful process.

The variety of altitude and aspect incident to a mountainous yet maritime country results in producing a variety in the climate; Aberdowry, for instance, being proverbially mild, the myrtle standing the winter as well as any common shrub; whilst neighbouring places differently situated are bleak and cold.

More than half the county is uninclosed, and much even of that is unproductive. Considerable portions of marsh land have been reclaimed in the estuaries, and much more requires only capital and enterprise in order to bring it to a fertile condition as any in the county. The proportion of arable land being small, it is consequently high-rented. The best is found about Towyn and Dyffryn-Ardd-y-bry.

The farming is generally of an inferior kind, and the farm buildings and cottages worse still; whilst rents, wages, and taxes are high. Being essentially a pastoral county, extensive herds of sheep are kept, which are small in size, but their flesh is delicate, and their wool of very fine quality. Large droves of black cattle of a very superior kind are also bred and annually sold in England, where good feeding converts them into the most tender of beef.

Manufactures are few, except that of flannel, which is produced in large quantities and of very fine quality. The women in some localities are still noted for knitting stockings, gloves, and Welsh wigs, which are exported, but to a much more limited extent than formerly, when it amounted to some £25,000 per annum. That of slates should be included amongst manufactures, as distinct from quarrying, and this would increase the importance of the manufacturing interest of Merionethshire considerably. Brush-handles, clogs, gloves, and leather for the same, are also manufactured to a limited extent.

The chief commercial outlets are Aberdowry and Abermaw. The trade of the former place is extensive and increasing. The exportation consists mostly of slates, poles, bark, and ores. The importations are—shop goods, corn, The trade of Barmouth has rather declined of late years. There is a harbour trust there who have managed to squander much money to very little purpose in attempting to build a lighthouse.

Aberdovwy, Towy, and Abermaw or Barmouth are much frequented in the bathing season. Towy frequently has its population trebled in a week by the influx of the industrial classes on their annual pilgrimage to the sea-coast; a privilege for which express stipulations are made in hiring engagements in Montgomeryshire, from whence most of them come.

There are two royal ferries; and their management does not reflect much credit upon the Board of Works, by whom they are leased to parties who do not appear to be particularly studious of the convenience and interest of the public. The want of railroads is much felt by strangers; but it is hoped that the proposed new railroad to Machynlleth will soon go far to remedy this serious hindrance to the material progress of the county. Dolgelley and Bala, where the assizes are alternately held, are two interesting little county towns of a purely Welsh character. The former has been lately lighted with gas; but both are very defective in sanitary arrangements. Corwen is a delightful and progressive place, from its proximity to a railway; Aberdovwy is also an improving locality, and must become a most important seaport, from its fine harbour, when the Machynlleth Railway is finished. Abermaw is a romantic watering-place much frequented. Of Harlech and Dinas-Mawddwy very little remains, save a fine old castle in the one, and a sinecure corporation in the other. Festiniog is a populous slate-manufacturing town surrounded with beautiful scenery. The following is the population of the principal towns:

| Name of Town | 1841 | 1851 | Males | |--------------|------|------|-------| | Aberdovwy and Towy | 2907 | 2769 | 1322 | | Dolgelley | 3895 | 3479 | 1578 | | Bala and Llanycil | 2161 | 2431 | 1198 | | Festiniog | 3138 | 3460 | 1878 | | Abermaw and Llanaber | 1769 | 1672 | 725 | | Corwen | 2129 | 2080 | 1029 |

The Anglican Episcopal community is the church established by law, but it has few adherents and little influence among the people. The county is ecclesiastically divided between Bangor and St Asaph. The deaneries of Ardwydy, Estimaner, and Talychont, are in the former; and Mawddwy, Penllyn, and Edeyrnion, in the latter. The number of parishes is about thirty-four, and, for a poor country, they are well endowed.

The dominant non-established church is Presbyterian, in the form called Welsh Calvinistic Methodism. The Wesleyans, Congregationalists, and Baptists have also numerous congregations.

Education is carried on by means of some hundreds of Sunday schools, and sixty day schools. There are two colleges at Bala for the education of Methodist and Congregational ministers: the former is being endowed as a fitting monument to the great and good Thomas Charles, who was to Welsh Methodism what Wesley was to Wesleyanism, and who lived and laboured in this town for many years.

In the earliest historical period Merionethshire was included in the territory of the Ordovices, a tribe so called through a Roman corruption of their Celtic designation, *Ardoceyceaid*, or "dwellers upon the placid stream." During the Roman occupation it was included in the province of *Britannia Secunda*, being (some say) called *Mereinia*; if so, it would seem to indicate an earlier origin for the word Merioneth (or Merion's Land) than the fifth century, when the Cantrev, or district situated between the Dofwy and the Mawddach, was bestowed upon Meirion-ab-Tybiawr-ab-Cynedda for his services in expelling the Gwyddelians (Irish) from Gwynedd. Perhaps he may have taken his name from the district allotted to him, as it is still as often called Meirion as Merionydd. The *Via Occidentalis* passed the whole length of the county, being joined at *Herri Mons* (the Mountain of Eryri, now Tomen-y-Mur, near Trawsfynydd) by a branch of the Southern Watling Street. During the Saxon and early Norman period we have not much interesting information respecting it, as it seems to have been to the Kymry a safe and mysterious refuge, into which the Saxon had a wholesome inclination in following. But in proportion as the Anglo-Norman power became consolidated these impregnable fastnesses became the scene of strife. Here Owen Gwynedd defeated Henry II., and brave Glyndwr rose in arms at the call of friendship and patriotism to resist the usurper of the throne of gentle Henry, and the enslaver of his loved Wales. Tradition and records tell of bloody deeds done here in those and later days by freebooters daring and cruel; the Gwylliaid-cochion, the Gwylliaid-dson, and Ieuan ap Robin Herw, the sea-rover of Aberdovwy, and his *treffydd* or "bloody home," &c. The whole county is rich in Celtic, Roman, and mediæval remains. The castles of Harlech and Bere, the Cadvan, Porus, and Caleucus (a Manx king probably) inscribed stones, the Llanegryn road screen (restored by W. W. E. Wynne, Esq., M.P.), cromleachs, circles, mounds, cairns, camps, &c., invite the notice of the antiquary.

Only one county and no borough member is returned. Real property was returned in 1815 as £111,436; in 1850 as £168,236; showing an increase of £56,800. We extract the following table of the population from the census of Great Britain in 1851:

| Year | Population | |------|------------| | 1801 | 29,506 | | 1811 | 30,854 | | 1821 | 31,382 | | 1831 | 35,315 | | 1841 | 39,332 | | 1851 | 38,843 |

In 1851 there were in the county 8159 houses inhabited, 372 uninhabited, and 31 in process of erection.