a town of Lower Canada, capital of a cognominal county, and the largest city in British America, is situated on a triangular-shaped island of about 30 miles in length and 7 in breadth, at the confluence of the Rivers St Lawrence, and Ottawa, N. Lat. 45. 32. 22., and W. Long. 73. 32. 46. It was founded in 1642, and called Ville Marie, by a French company, which had for its object the conversion and civilization of the Indian tribes. During fifty years the settlers were harassed by the treacherous attacks of the Iroquois; but by a heroic resistance they at length succeeded in securing the tranquility of the colony. On the 8th September 1760 Montreal was finally delivered up to the British, in whose hands it has since remained in peaceful possession. The town was then defended by some old fortifications, but these were demolished about the beginning of the present century, and replaced by wide and substantial streets. In 1815 the city scarcely contained 15,000 inhabitants; now its population is estimated at 75,000, and is steadily increasing.

The St Lawrence, on the left bank of which Montreal is situated, has a length of 742 miles above the city; and links together the celebrated combination of lakes which contain the largest amount of navigable fresh water on the surface of the globe; their total area being 98,000 square miles; while the extent of their coasts, if stretched out in a straight line, would measure upwards of 6000 miles.

The River Ottawa, which joins the St Lawrence both above and below the town, drains an area of about 80,000 square miles; and Montreal being the highest point to which the St Lawrence is navigable for sea-going vessels drawing 18 feet of water, it may be considered as the chief port of the great St Lawrence system.

The city is situated on the left bank of the St Lawrence, 300 miles from its mouth, and stands at the foot of an isolated hill, from which it takes its name. This eminence is composed of trap, which bursts through the Lower Silurian limestone of the vicinity, and rises to the height of 750 feet above the harbour. The slopes at its base are beautifully studded with orchards and villas, those on the side next the river gradually mingling with the buildings of the city.

The city occupies an area of 7 or 8 square miles. Its principal streets run parallel with the bank of the river; and all the public edifices, with a large proportion of the private dwellings, are built of cut limestone, derived from extensive quarries in the immediate neighbourhood. The majority of the houses, however, are of brick, roofed with tin, which from a distance produces a sparkling effect on the landscape.

The views from the mountain behind the city are very striking and beautiful. From the one side, looking to the upper end of the island, the eye takes in a fine expansion of the St Lawrence, called Lake St Louis, with a portion of the Lake of Two Mountains, backed by the Montreal hills which give it name. A well-cultivated and wooded district stretches to the westward and north-westward, watered by the Ottawa, and bounded at a distance of about 30 miles by the Laurentian Hills.

On the east side of the mountain, on the other hand, the city occupies the foreground, adorned with the steeples of its numerous churches, and inclosed by the St Lawrence, which has here a breadth of from 1 to 2 miles. Above the city the bed of the river is occupied by Nuns' and St Helen's Islands, the latter rising to a height of 150 feet. In the interval between these islets the great Victoria bridge is in course of erection, for the purpose of connecting Montreal Island with the mainland, and completing the links of the Grand Trunk Railroad. This stupendous bridge, which when finished in 1859 will be the largest in the world, is to be of the following dimensions:

- Its total length will measure 10,884 feet; the span of each of the twenty-five arches will be 242 feet, with the exception of the centre one over the navigable channel, which will measure 330 feet. In this arch the height from the water-level of the river to the floor of the iron tube will be 60 feet. The limestone masonry, with rock-faced ashlar work, will contain 2,900,000 cubic feet; the iron tube will weigh 10,400 tons; and the cost of the whole is to amount to L1,250,000 sterling.

From the east side of the river, opposite Montreal, there extends a wide champaign country, the natural fertility of which is attested by the fact, that a large part of 1,000,000 bushels of wheat, exported from Lower Canada so early as the year 1801, was derived from it. This flat region is thickly studded with farm houses, and it is broken by a number of isolated trap mountains. Beyond these a prolongation of the Green Mountains of Vermont are visible, some of them attaining here a height of about 4000 feet above the St Lawrence. Some excellent roofing slates and beautiful white granite are found in the ridge, and are now partially used in the city.

At Montreal, and nearly all the way down to Lake St Peter, the channel of the St Lawrence is scooped out of a black bituminous shale; while 2 or 3 miles above the town this shale is cut by trap dykes, and becomes intercalated with trap beds. The river, changing its upward bearing from southward to westward, here crosses the stratification, and its wearing action having been resisted by the superior toughness of the trap and the solidity of the limestone, a natural dyke is formed, which keeps the Lake St Louis at a higher level by 44 feet than the harbour of Montreal, and gives origin to the Lachine or St Louis rapids. In these the whole body of the river, contracted to half a mile, rushes with a rapidity of 18 miles an hour; and although they are navigable downwards for steamers drawing 10 feet, they of course present an insuperable barrier to any ascent of the stream being attempted.

To obviate this and similar obstructions to the navigation, a magnificent system of canals has been established, called the St Lawrence Canals. These are nine in number, and 42 miles in length. Twenty-seven locks occur in the system, by which a rise of 205 feet is obtained, and which are capable of floating vessels of 200 feet in length by 45 feet in breadth, and drawing 9 feet of water. The lowest section, which avoids the Lachine rapids, commences at the port of Montreal, and, with a length of 9 miles, reaches Lake St Louis at Lachine, opposite Caughnawaga. The town, however, is otherwise benefited by the sudden fall of the river here, as great facility is thereby afforded for an ample supply of fresh water being conveyed into the city. By means of the new waterworks the water is brought from the St Lawrence about 1½ mile above the Lachine rapids, at an elevation of 37 feet above Montreal harbour, and conducted for 5 miles along an open canal, 43 feet wide by 8 in depth, to the pumping machinery, where it is forced up to reservoirs excavated out of the solid rock 205 feet above the level of the harbour, and which contain about 15,000,000 gallons of water. Gas-light is also abundantly supplied by a company incorporated in 1847, who had laid down a length of pipe in 1855 of 34 miles. What most attracts the stranger, however, in Montreal is the number of its public buildings, which could well be compared with those of any town of similar size in the New World. Of these the greater number are for religious or charitable purposes. One of the largest Catholic churches was consumed in the great conflagration of the 8th July 1852, which destroyed one-third of the city. The English cathedral was also destroyed by fire in December 1856. Preparations are now made for the rebuilding of both churches on a much larger scale. The Catholic parish church, which was opened for public worship in 1829, is one of the finest sacred edifices in North America. It measures 241 feet in length by 135 feet in breadth, and is surmounted by two lofty towers, which rise to the height of 213 feet. The cost of the whole building amounted to L80,000. A chime of bells belonging to this church is much admired, particularly the great bell, which weighs 25,000 lb., and was cast in London twelve years ago by Mears. Besides these there are other Catholic churches—that of St James', erected on the ground of the ancient cathedral of Notre-Dame; Bonsecours and Recollet for the French Canadians; and St Patrick's and St Ann's for the Irish, who form one-third of the Catholic population. Of the Protestant churches the most remarkable are St George's, St Andrew's (a fine Gothic edifice), the Wesleyan church in Great St James' Street, Zion church, and St Thomas's. These, with the new Unitarian and other places of worship, among which is the Jews' synagogue, impart an elegance to the architecture of the city. Among the charitable institutions there are the Hotel Dieu, whose origin dates as far back as that of the colony itself; and St Patrick's Hospital, a branch of the same, both of which are attended by the nuns of St Joseph de la Flèche, who receive and assist the sick. The General Hospital, founded in 1747 by Madame d'Youville, is attended by the Gray Nuns, who receive foundlings, orphans, and infirm persons; and who have lately opened two other asylums in the interior of the city. The House of Providence is also open for aged and infirm persons. The English General Hospital, maintained by the liberality of government, and erected in a salubrious situation, is a very fine edifice, open to Catholics as well as Protestants, and to which deceased merchants of the city have left large sums of money. The Protestant Orphan Asylum, the Protestant Industrial House of Refuge, the University Lying-in Hospital, the Seamen's Friend Society, with many others, have rendered the greatest service to the community, and are well supported by the people. Of literary and educational institutions, there are few cities in North America which afford such easy and abundant means of education as Montreal. Without mentioning a number of private schools, there is McGill College, founded by the Hon. James McGill, a merchant in Montreal, who died in 1813, bequeathing to the institution, which was to bear his name, L10,000, and the estate of Burnside, of 46 acres, within the city. Litigation, however, having ensued as to the validity of the bequest, which was left in trust to the "Royal Institution for the Advancement of Learning," it was settled in 1835 by a decision of the Privy Council. The bequest of L10,000 amounted then to L22,000, of which L15,000 were expended on buildings. In 1832 Her Majesty, by a new charter, appointed the members of the "Royal Institution of Learning" governors of this university ex officio; and in 1856 a sum of about L15,000 was subscribed by the citizens of Montreal for its advancement and extension, of which £5000 were given by the Messrs Molson for the support of the "Molson Professorship of History and English Literature." The university is now in a flourishing condition, and has a principal, 5 professors of law, 9 of medicine, and 9 of arts, besides a high-school department, with a rector and 9 assistant-masters. The number of students was, in 1856, of law, 16; medicine, 96; arts, 54; and high school, 225; while the total number of volumes contained in the library amounted to 4036. The Montreal college, founded by the priests of St Sulpice a hundred years ago, and St Mungo's college, established a few years since by the Jesuits, number each about 200 students. There are also two normal schools, established in 1857. The McGill normal school is under the direction of the corporation of the university of McGill college. It is designed for the Protestant population of Lower Canada, and the instruction given is principally in the English language, although French is also taught. The Jacques Cartier normal school is also situated in Montreal, and is designed for the Roman Catholics of the surrounding districts. The instruction given is principally in the French language, but English is also taught. On the ground formerly occupied by the Mountain Fort, and commanding one of the most enchanting views in Canada, is erected a new theological Catholic seminary, an edifice of considerable dimensions. Besides these, there are the Canadian Institute for the French Canadians; the Mechanic's Institution, a building in the Italian style; and the Mercantile Library Association, the latter principally composed of young men acting as clerks in mercantile establishments. It is furnished with a library consisting of above 3000 volumes; and lectures on various subjects are delivered in its hall during the winter months. The national societies, so specially illustrative of colonial life, are likewise worthy of mention. They consist of the associations of St Andrew, St George, St Jean Baptiste, St Patrick, and New England, and have for their object the relief of such of their members as may become reduced in circumstances.

The only public monument in the city is one erected to Lord Nelson. It is situated in the market-place, is 60 feet in height, and is surmounted by a colossal statue of the hero. The Montreal Merchants' Exchange, the new post-office, and the several banks are all elegant buildings, and of various styles of architecture. The markets are well supplied with commodities; the largest of them are the Bonsecours and the St Ann's. The town supports seven daily newspapers printed in English, and one daily in French; two French and one English semi-weekly paper; and three English weekly; besides sixteen other periodicals, published monthly and quarterly, on theological, medical, and literary subjects.

The commerce of Montreal, although it has from time to time received severe checks, has, in the aggregate, rapidly increased; and when the advantages of its position are considered, the ultimate importance of this city appears certain and immediate. As late as 1847 all Canadian produce was protected in the British markets. But in that year the differential duties were repealed, and the St Lawrence, which up to that time enjoyed a monopoly of Canadian trade, had to enter into competition with the United States; and the Drawback or Bonding Bill having at the same time come into operation there, the people of Western Canada were enabled to import foreign goods, or send their own produce through the United States in bond. On account of this change of commercial policy, and without the advantages arising from a repeal of the Navigation Laws, as now in force, the trade of Montreal suffered severely. The imports and exports, which in 1846 amounted to £2,845,008, declined in 1849 to £2,013,478; but in 1856 the value of imports and exports at the port amounted to £4,992,565. A rivalry now exists between the state of New York on the one hand and East Canada on the other; Montreal, as to which shall be successful in attracting the trade of Upper Canada and the Western States of the Union, to New York on the Atlantic, or to Montreal on the St Lawrence. The merchants of this port are well aware of the measures necessary to command success. The shoals which obstructed Lake St Peter and other parts of the river between Quebec and Montreal have been removed, and the depth of water increased throughout from 11 feet to 18 feet at the lowest water; while it is expected that in 1859 the channel from Montreal to the sea will be brought to a depth of 20 feet at the lowest water, and a width of 300 feet. The magnitude of this work can be estimated by the fact that, when completed, 5,074,491 cubic yards of silt will have been removed. Sailing vessels of 2000 tons, and steamers of 3000 tons, will then be able to enter the port of Montreal from the sea. New docks are also projected for the accommodation of such vessels; and with storehouses connected therewith, such facilities will be obtained for the ocean and western vessels exchanging their cargoes as cannot be excelled at any other port in North America. Montreal is 300 miles nearer Liverpool than the port of New York, and is nearer also to any port in Upper Canada, or in the Western States, than that city. At present, however, the shipping of Montreal is exceeded by that of Quebec, and many vessels from the former port are re-cleared at the latter, and vice versa. In 1854 an aggregate seaward tonnage of 72,305 entered Montreal, against 59,712 in the preceding year; and an aggregate seaward tonnage of 73,917 cleared from the port in 1854, against 59,902 in 1853.

By railway Montreal is connected with all the most important points. The Grand Trunk Railroad extends from St Thomas (30 miles below Quebec), and from Portland (Maine) to Montreal, and from thence to Stratford, having a total mileage of 850 miles. The Champlain Railroad extends from St Lambert, opposite Montreal, to Rouse's Point, in Lake Champlain, a distance of 45 miles. The Montreal and New York Railroad, including distance by ferry, extends from Montreal to the Province line, a distance of 39 miles; and these railroads, with the Great Western Railroad from Niagara Falls and Hamilton to Windsor on the Detroit River, place Montreal in communication with Quebec, Portland, and all ports of the United States. In addition to these advantages, Montreal is the terminus of the Canadian line of ocean steamships, now running every fortnight between Montreal and Liverpool, and also under contract to run in 1859 every week during the period of navigation, and once every fortnight during winter, to Portland. Lines of telegraph are in connection with all parts of Canada and of the United States; while a bill has been obtained by the Montreal Telegraph Company to carry a wire down the St Lawrence, to connect at Newfoundland with the projected cable across the Atlantic. Another work which must result greatly to the benefit of Montreal, is the construction of a ship canal from the St Lawrence, near the town, into Lake Champlain. The distance is about 28 miles. This would tend more than any other public work to give important advantages to the St Lawrence route.

Montreal is also the seat of a large manufacturing interest, and from the immense water-power, in the fall of 44 feet of the St Lawrence within a distance of 7 miles, it is evident that manufactures within and near the city must rapidly extend. At present the only water-power is furnished from the Lachine Canal, and here several thousand men are employed in cotton and woollen mills, edge-tool factories, boiler and engine works, saw-mills, sash, blind, and door factories, Indian-rubber, rope and cordage, nail, axe, and shovel factories. The manufacture of boots and shoes is likewise carried on to a large extent.

The value of assessed property in 1856 was £6,391,333 Montrose, and the revenue of the town from all sources L71,258.

The city is divided into nine wards, and is municipally governed by a mayor, aldermen, and council, elected by householders who pay an annual rent of ten pounds sterling or upwards, or persons who own real estate producing half that amount of rent annually. The city returns three members to the provincial Parliament. Pop. (1851) 57,715, and in 1857 about 75,000.