an English maritime county, the most easterly and the fourth in territorial extent in the country, and tenth as regards population. It is bounded on the N. and N.E. by the German Ocean; on the N.W. by the estuary called the Wash; and on the S. the rivers Waveney and Little Ouse divide it from Suffolk; while the Great Ouse, the Wilney, and the Nene separate it from Cambridgeshire. Its greatest length is about 70 miles from E. to W., and the broadest part is 42 miles from N. to S. It lies between 50° 17'. and 52° 56'. N. Lat., and 0° 1. and 1° 45'. E. Long.; is about 180 miles in circumference; and contains within the county proper (as distinguished from the registration county) 1,354,301 acres; is divided into 33 hundreds and 740 parishes, including the city of Norwich, which is a city and county in itself.
The population, according to the returns at the six Census decennial enumerations, amounted in 1801 to 271,125, in return 1811 to 288,305, in 1821 to 339,885, in 1831 to 384,142, in 1841 to 405,124, in 1851 to 433,716.
The census of 1851 returns the registration county as follows:
| Area in square miles | Inhabited dwellings | Houses building | Population | Males | Females | |----------------------|--------------------|----------------|------------|-------|---------| | 1,300,311 | 91,144 | 3350 | 447 | 433,716 | 210,759 | 222,957 |
The amount of real property assessed to the property and income tax in 1851 was £2,468,893, and the amount... Norfolk assessed to the relief of the poor for the year ending March 1856 was £1,865,216. The expenditure of the county for 1856 was—
| For Gaols | £6,407 18 10 | |-----------|--------------| | Administration of Justice | 4,291 5 10 | | Lunatic Asylums | 1,770 17 7 | | Coroners | 1,071 14 9 | | Militia and Artillery | 1,124 18 6 | | Miscellaneous | 2,623 10 11 |
The county rate levies amounted to £13,393 0 0, and the receipts from Government to £3,544 0 0.
The births in 1851 were 14,345; deaths 9,834; and marriages 3,177. The places of worship were—belonging to the Church of England, 719; and sittings, 187,210; belonging to other denominations, 722; and sittings, 125,703.
There are about 100 endowed schools in connection with the Church of England, and above 1,200 day schools of all denominations. The educational census gives the number of children of all ages at school—boys, 26,694; girls, 26,299. The Sunday schools are returned as 782; and Sunday scholars, 50,182. The general census gives the total number of children under ten years of age—boys, 52,986; girls, 53,082; and the total number under tuition at home or at school—boys, 17,990; girls, 17,271; leaving 70,817, inclusive of infants, not under any instruction.
From its exposure to the North Sea, the climate of Norfolk is generally colder than other parts of England, and the prevalence of easterly winds in the spring retards the growth of vegetation to a later period than in the western districts. The surface of the country presents less variety than most of the other English counties, being generally flat, and uninteresting to the traveller in search of the picturesque. The coast is chiefly comprised of low sandy beach, seldom rising into bold elevations. The only lofty cliffs are St Edmund's Point at Hunstanton, and the chalk and clay cliffs at Cromer, which are fast yielding to the incursions of the ocean. The scenery is not woody; but of late years timber has been more generally planted, for use as well as ornament, than was formerly the case. The rivers, although slow and sluggish in their course, are easy of navigation, and, with the sea on the northern and eastern sides, form natural water-boundaries to this county, making it almost an island; in the eastern valleys the streams frequently expand into large meres or broads abounding with fish. The Great Ouse, navigable for barges 24 miles from its mouth, rises in Northamptonshire, enters this county at Downham, and enters the large estuary of the Wash, which divides Norfolk from Lincolnshire, near Lynn. It affords water communication with seven of the midland counties. The Little Ouse and the Waveney rise within ten feet of each other in the southern part of the county, but pursue directly opposite courses, forming the boundary line between Norfolk and Suffolk until the Little Ouse meets the Great Ouse on the borders of Cambridgeshire, and the Waveney, becoming navigable at Bungay, meets the Yare at Burgh, and falls into the sea at Yarmouth. The Bure rises near Aylsham, and, after receiving the Thurne and Ant, falls into the Yare, which rises near Attleburgh, becomes navigable at Norwich, and, after receiving the waters of the Tass and the Wensum, merges in the Waveney. A ship-canal has been cut across the marshes from Reedham to Lowestoft in Suffolk, connecting the Yare with the sea. The Nar rises near Litcham, and has a short course to the seashore Lynn, whence it is navigable to Narborough, a distance of sixteen miles.
The Reform Act divided the county into two parts, East and West Norfolk, each returning two knights of the shire to Parliament. The eastern division comprises eighteen out of the thirty-three hundreds into which the county is divided, and its polling-places are Norwich, Yarmouth, Ludlow, Long Stratton, Reepham, and North Walsham. West Norfolk comprises fifteen hundreds, and its polling-places are East Dereham, Fakenham, Lynn, Downham, Thetford, and Swaffham; the latter of which is the principal place of election.
The municipal boroughs and corporate towns of Norfolk, each also returning two members to Parliament, are—
| Inhabited Houses | Population | |------------------|------------| | Norwich | 14,988 | 68,195 | | Great Yarmouth, with Gorleston | 6,886 | 36,879 | | King's Lynn | 3,845 | 19,355 | | Thetford | 844 | 4,675 |
The agriculture of this county is the foundation of its industrial prosperity. Few counties of England possess a greater variety of soils, and the peculiar excellence of the far-famed Norfolk agriculturist consists in the skill with which he utilizes these various soils, thereby improving the texture, and therefore the productive qualities of all. By judicious claying and marling, large tracts of light sandy desert, moor, and heath have been converted into rich arable land; and by the extensive use of draining-mills, both wind and steam, the low marsh lands have been converted into rich valleys of fruitful corn-fields. Ten years ago it was said of the agriculturists of this county, that they knew as much as would be necessary, if known generally, to make England produce half as much again as it was at that time doing. The more general diffusion of agricultural science since that time may have lessened the comparative superiority of the Norfolk farmers, but, as they took the lead in throwing off the fetters of antiquated systems, they continue to preserve their character for adopting readily all hints for improvement, and still exhibit examples of the most judicious practices in husbandry. The ploughing and drilling here are excellent; even indifferent skill in these branches is very rare. The ploughs used are of light construction, drawn by two horses, or frequently bullocks, for which a peculiar breed of Devons are employed, and driven from behind with reins by the man who guides. This mode of driving is said to be the cause of the straightness of the lines preserved by both ploughs and drills. The most prevalent system of cropping now is the four-course, as first introduced by the late Earl of Leicester; and the usual rotation is, turnips, barley, clover or other grasses, and wheat. The five-course system is not uncommon, but the old six-course is very rare. Nearly all the corn is stacked in the field.
The number of farms in the county employing labourers is 4,868; those not employing labourers, or not making returns, 1,664—total, 6,532. Number of labourers employed in the field—men, 32,840; women, 606—total, 33,446. Upwards of 200,000 acres of commons and sandy heaths have been inclosed during the last eighty years.
The average yield per acre is ten cooms or five quarters of barley, and nine cooms or four and a half quarters of wheat. Above 1,045,760 acres of land are under cultivation. Its agricultural productions are chiefly wheat, barley, oats, peas, beans, potatoes, turnips, mangel-wurzel, beet, hay (composed of rye-grass, clover, suckling, trefoil, or sainfoin). Hemp is grown on the borders of Suffolk, and flax is cultivated for the sake of the linseed to fatten cattle, as well as for the flax itself. The management of the turnip crop is a point on which Norfolk agriculturists have long been pre-eminent. This valuable root was first introduced into field culture in the reign of George I. by Viscount Townshend, upon his estates in Norfolk. By the immense stock of winter food they supply, an enormous increase in the number of cattle and sheep bred and fattened in the county has been produced. The principal implements used in husbandry here are light ploughs, scarifiers, harrows, drills, horse-hoes, chaff-cutters, and threshing-machines. Wheat is often dabbled, the women and girls finding em-
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1 In 1831 the average yield of wheat was 3 quarters to the acre, showing an increase of 50 per cent. since that period. Norfolk. ployment in dropping the seed. The quantity of grain exported from the various ports of the county before the opening of railways has been nearly 600,000 quarters in a year, but since that time the exports have much diminished. The principal market of the county is held at Norwich, for cattle, corn, and sheep. For the year ending October 1857, the amount of wheat brought to the Norwich market was 270,768 quarters, and of barley 187,245 quarters. The Norwich cattle-market is one of the largest in England; but the live stock of the county possess few distinctive characteristics. The principal cattle bred are Durhams or short-horns, but many Scotch and Irish are sent over to be grazed. Devon's are used for ploughing, on account of their quicker step and activity. There are but few dairies, and these are confined to the neighbourhood of large towns. The indigenous breed of Norfolk sheep is now almost extinct, their hardy habits and agile movements, which were virtues when land was less cultivated, becoming defects when quickness of fattening became the primary quality requisite. The sheep now chiefly bred are Downs and half-bred Downs. The cart-horses are a fine breed, averaging from 14 to 15 hands high. Norfolk pigs are comparatively small; the finest now in the county are descended from the Berkshire boar and Chinese pigs. Poultry of all kinds is plentiful, and of a superior quality. The turkeys are most highly prized; vast quantities are sent to the London markets. No county is better stocked with game, especially pheasants and partridges, which are sedulously preserved by the landlords, and generally reserved in the leases. Great numbers of rabbits are bred in extensive warrens in many parts of the county.
From the earliest times Norfolk has been the seat of manufacturing operations. For four centuries it was the main centre of the woollen trade, first introduced by a colony of Dutch weavers, who crossed the Channel, and settled themselves at Worsted, a village about 13 miles from Norwich. The sumptuary laws of Edward III., and the fixing of staples at Norwich, tended to the increase of the manufactures; and the persecutions of the Duke of Alva, which drove large numbers of Dutch and other artisans to these shores, promoted the prosperity of the county. The most flourishing period of Norfolk woollen manufactures was during the middle of the last century. Bombazines, crapes, paramattas, and silk goods of every description, are now made. From the absence of coal and iron in the district, the manufacturers cannot compete with the north for cheapness, but for quality their goods are yet unrivalled. The number of wool-staplers and woollen manufacturers in Norfolk, returned in the last census, was 587; silk do., and dealers in silks, 2269; engaged in flax, 146; in cotton manufactures, 333; rope and hemp, 863. Besides silk and woollen manufactures, many other very important factories have sprung up; as shoes, soap, paper, brushes, bricks, tobacco, starch, mustard, oil-cake, and many varieties of artificial manures. The fishing trade of Yarmouth is an important branch of Norfolk commerce. The mackerel fishing alone is estimated to produce £16,000 a year, employing 90 boats and 870 men. The number of fishermen in the county is 1340; fishmongers, 329. The herring fishery employs 160 boats and 1300 men, besides those on shore, and produces 100,000 barrels yearly. Yarmouth has also extensive malting establishments.
Of various kinds of produce, the quantity sent by railways to all parts of the kingdom, and exported from Lynn, Wells, and Yarmouth, is very great.
Norfolk has railway communication with London via Cambridge and via Ipswich from Yarmouth and from Lynn; and with the north and north-west of England via Peterborough branch from Ely.
The public and turnpike roads of the county are better than in most parts of England, being generally raised higher than the adjacent land, and well drained by trenches on either side.
Norfolk is in the diocese of Norwich, and in the archiepiscopal province of Canterbury. It is the head of the judicial circuit of Norfolk, which comprises five other counties. The military and maritime government of the county is vested in the same individual. The Earl of Leicester is the present lord-lieutenant, custos rotulorum, and vice-admiral. In the two first capacities he presides over the affairs of the county, has the control of the militia, and the appointment of deputy-lieutenants and magistrates. As vice-admiral of Norfolk he executes his authority under the Lord High Admiral of England. The mayors of Yarmouth and Lynn have admiralty jurisdiction on the rivers of their respective boroughs and ports. In 1839 a rural police, or constabulary force, was established in the county, consisting of a chief constable and 136 subordinates. The force has been at various times augmented; and in 1857 consisted of one chief constable, one deputy-constable, and 219 subordinates; the total cost of whose maintenance, inclusive of all expenses connected with stations, &c., was £15,511 for the year ending October 1857. A comparison of the statistics of crime gives 686 cases of detected felonies in 1854, and 237 cases of undetected felonies. In 1857 felonies detected were 600; undetected, 199. The families receiving titles from places in Norfolk are the Howards, dukes of Norfolk; the Gordons, earls of Norwich; Conways, earls of Yarmouth. Thetford confers the title of Viscount on the Fitzroys. The Townshends are viscounts of Raynham, and barons of King's Lynn. The De Greys are barons of Walsingham, the Nelsons barons of Hilshorough, the Howards are barons of Castle Rising, the Hobarts barons of Blickling, the Calthorpes are barons of Calthorpe, the Walpoles barons of Wolterton and Walpole, the Harbords are barons of Suffield, and the Wodehouses barons of Kimberley.
The most remarkable ancient mansions, some of which, however, exist but in ruins, are Blickling Hall, Caistor Hall, Oxburgh Hall, Winwall House, Stiffkey Hall, Baconsthorpe Hall, Hunstanton Hall, Scales Hall, Fincham Hall, Thorpe Hall, Wallington Hall, and Merton Hall; many of which exhibit the castellated character, though they do not appear to have been regularly fortified.
The principal country seats of noblemen and gentlemen are—Beeston Hall, Sir J. H. Preston, Bart.; Blickling, Marquis of Lothian; Buckenham Tofts, Lord Ashburton; Castle Rising, Hon. F. G. Howard; Costessey Hall, Lord Stafford; Elmbam Hall, Lord Sondes; Gunston House, Lord Suffield; Harling Hall, Lord Colborne; Haeringland, E. Fellowes, Esq., M.P.; Heydon Hall, W. E. L. Bulwer, Esq.; Hillington Hall, Sir W. T. H. B. Ffolkes, Bart.; Holkham, Earl of Leicester; Hunningham, Lord Bayning; Houghton, Marquis Cholmondeley; Keswick Hall, Hudson Gurney, Esq.; Ketteringham, Sir J. P. Boileau; Kimberley, Lord Wodehouse; Kirby Cave, Lord Berners; Langley, Sir W. B. Proctor; Melton Constable, Lord Hastings; Merton Hall, Lord Walsingham; Oxburgh, Sir J. P. Bedingfield, Bart.; Quiddenham, Earl of Albemarle; Raynham, Marquis of Townshend; Scottow, Sir T. H. E. Durrant, Bart.; Wolterton, Earl of Orford.
Norfolk possesses few of the more important Celtic remains—common on the western coast of the island; but barrows with their contents, celt, spear-heads, beads, and other vestiges of the ruder times, are found scattered throughout the whole surface. Of the Roman period, Caister, by Norwich, is an interesting relic: its walls and towers mark it for one of those permanent stations, known by the name of Castra Hiberna, and hardly to be found beyond the limits of Britain. Of summer camps, Brancaster, Castle Rising, and Tasburgh exhibit more or less perfect vestiges; while coins and urns, glass and pottery, tes-