an inland county in the province of Leinster, in Ireland, bounded on the north by the King's County, east by Kildare and Carlow, south by Carlow and Kilkenny, and west by Tipperary and the King's County. It extends over a surface of 664 square miles, or 424,854 acres, of which 342,422 are arable, 69,289 uncultivated, 11,630 in plantations, 1117 in towns, and 396 under water. Of the uncultivated ground about 18,000 acres, consisting partly of pasture land on the eastern declivity of the Slieve-Bloom Mountains, but chiefly of bog and boggy pasture, are capable of being drained and cultivated advantageously; 26,000 acres may be improved by draining for pasture; and the remaining 25,000 acres are unimproveable.

No notice of the inhabitants of this part of Ireland is to be found in Ptolemy's account of the island; but Whitaker supposes it to have been peopled, together with all the other interior parts, by the Scots. It was afterwards known by the names of Osory and Leit; the former consisting of the north-western districts, the latter of the remainder. of the county, and the Barrow constituting the boundary between them. Ossory, of which the Macgillypatricks or Fitzpatricks were the toparchs, ranked as a subordinate kingdom at the landing of the English, and for some time afterwards. Leix was made a county palatine, which fell into the possession of Roger Mortimer through the female line, and afterwards was seized on by the O'Mores, who retained possession of it, and proved persevering and troublesome enemies to the English government, until the reign of Philip and Mary, when the territory was made shire-ground, under the name of the Queen's County, in honour of the sovereign; and the place chosen for the county town was named Maryborough, for the same reason. This county, when brought under British law, was gradually peopled by English settlers. During the subsequent reigns several of these families became extinct in the male line; many were expelled or extinguished by the confiscations arising out of the civil wars in 1641 and 1689; whilst the descendants of others, the principal of whom are the Veseyes, Cootes, Parnells, Dawsons, and Burrowses, still retain the whole or some portion of their ancestral possessions. The Queen's County is now divided into the baronies of Ballyadams, Clonlough, Clarmallagh, Cullinagh, Maryborough East, Maryborough West, Partnahinch, Slievemarigue, Straibally, Tinnehinch, and Upperwoods. These are subdivided into thirty-eight parishes, and six parts of parishes, the remaining parts of which are in the adjoining counties.

According to the ecclesiastical arrangements of the country, the county contains fifty-three parishes, of which thirty-five are in the dioceses of Leighlin and Kildare, and fifteen in Ossary, the remainder forming part of the diocese of Kilaloe and Dublin.

The general face of the country is level, but it rises into heights of considerable elevation in the Slieve-Bloom Mountains, which, taking a direction nearly north and south along the western verge of the county, rise to a considerable height, their most elevated point being 1689 feet above the level of the sea, and with an acclivity so abrupt that the only practicable road across them is through the pass of Glandine. In the southern extremity the Slievemarigue Hills, of considerably inferior elevation, separate the county from that of Kilkenny. The monotony of a generally level surface is somewhat relieved by a range of low hills, which traverse it in a direction from north to south, the most remarkable of which are the Rock of Dunamase and the Dun of Clopoke; as also by eskars, a singular species of low hills, or rather slight elevations of the surface, formed of rounded pebbles, apparently forced together by the operation of contending currents of water. The most remarkable of these is the Ridge of Maryborough, which, entering from the King's County, proceeds for a considerable distance by Maryborough, and, after having been deranged and broken, resumes again the form of a continuous ridge, branching out in the southern part of the county in two divisions. The Slieve-Bloom Mountains give rise to some of the great rivers of Ireland. The Barrow rises at their northern extremity, and, after passing through the north of the county, forms its north-eastern boundary; then, turning southwards, it forms its boundary to the east, separating it from Kildare and Carlow, and falls into the Suir some miles below New Ross, forming with that river the estuary called Waterford Harbour. The source of the Nore is southward of that of the Barrow, in the same mountains. It passes through the south-western part of the county by Abbeyleix and Ballynaskill, enters the county of Kilkenny near Ballyragget, and, after flowing by the city of Kilkenny, joins the Barrow about two miles above New Ross. The portion of the Barrow between its junction with the Nore and Suir is generally called the Ross River. The Suir, which also rises in the Slieve-Bloom Mountains at their southern extremity, does not belong to this county. These three rivers, the Barrow, Nore, and Suir, are, next to the Shannon, the chief means of transmitting the waters of the great central limestone district of Ireland to the sea. The smaller rivers are the Ownas, Tribogue, and Blackwater, tributaries of the Barrow; and the Tonnet, Doloire, Old Forge River, Clonconoe, Cromoge, Corbally, Trumery, Colt, and Erkin, tributaries of the Nore. Under the name of the Barrow Navigation, the River Barrow is navigable for barges from Athy, where it joins the Grand Canal to the Scarrs below St Mullins, a distance of 43 miles; from thence there is an open navigation for large craft, passing by New Ross and Waterford to the sea. The Nore is not navigable until after it has quitted the county. There is no lake except Lough Annagh on its northern boundary, which partly belongs to the King's County, and does not exceed one mile in length.

The population of this county in 1812 was 113,857; 1821, 134,275; 1831, 145,851; 1841, 153,930; 1851, 111,623. The return of 1841 gives an average of 232 inhabitants to each square mile; that of 1851 exhibits only 168, being a reduction of 64; the decrease in the population of all Ireland for the same period having been 49 persons to each square mile.

The county returned eight members to the Irish Parliament; two for the county at large, and two each for the boroughs of Portarlington, Maryborough, and Ballynaskill. This number was reduced to three by the Act of Union, by which the boroughs were disfranchised, with the exception of the first-named. The number of registered electors for the county, according to the latest return, was 2998; that of the borough of Portarlington, 96. The local government consists of a lieutenant; eighteen deputy-lieutenants,—all appointed by the crown during pleasure; and county magistrates, appointed by the lord chancellor. The constabulary force consists of a county inspector, eight sub-inspectors, eight head constables, fifty-one constables, and one hundred and eighty-five sub-constables; in all, 233.

The state of education, according to the parliamentary returns in 1821 and 1824–26, was as follows:

| Year | Boys | Girls | Sex not ascertained | Total | |------|------|-------|--------------------|-------| | 1821 | 4825 | 1998 | | 6,823 | | 1824–6 | 6024 | 4908 | 231 | 11,763 |

Of the numbers stated in the latter of these returns, 2074 were Episcopalians, Protestants, 104 Protestant dissenters, and 9426 Roman Catholics; the religious persuasion of the remaining 305 not having been ascertained. The number of schools, and of pupils attending them during the week ended 12th April 1851, was ascertained to be as follows:

| Description of Schools | No. of Schools | No. of Children | |------------------------|---------------|----------------| | | | Males | Females | Total | | National | 58 | 1658 | 1746 | 3404 | | Church Education | 24 | 461 | 378 | 839 | | Endowed | 2 | 33 | 20 | 53 | | Boarding | 11 | 218 | 161 | 379 | | Private | 35 | 356 | 265 | 621 | | Parochial | 17 | 314 | 268 | 582 | | Free | 7 | 243 | 123 | 366 | | Mission | 1 | 22 | | 22 | | Workhouse | 3 | 785 | 436 | 1221 | | Gaol | 1 | 155 | 61 | 216 | | Total | 159 | 4255 | 3446 | 7701 |

At the same period it was found that 37 per cent. of the population could neither read nor write; a proportion of ignorance below all the counties of Connaught and Munster, and several in the other provinces.

The level part of the county forms the southern portion of the great limestone field which traverses Ireland across its centre. The peculiar flatness of the interior appears to have caused those accumulations of alluvial matter, composed of clay and limestone gravel, which, in the form of low but steep ridges of hills, occur so frequently throughout the midland districts, and are known by the name of eskars. Some very striking specimens of this formation in the county have already been noticed. That the surface of the country was exposed to the action of rapid currents of water, is evidenced by the deep parallel indentations or furrows frequently observable on the surface of rocks from which the alluvial soil has been removed. It is also probable that the gravel hills were rapidly deposited from water in violent action; an inference which is confirmed by the fact, that they mostly consist of large masses of rock partially rounded, intermixed with small gravel, and even with clay and sand. The old red sandstone shows itself in the Slieve-Bloom Mountains, which are almost wholly of that formation. The south-eastern extremity forms a small part of the Leinster coal-field, the mineral in it being, like that of Kilkenny, which adjoins it, of the carbonaceous or stone-coal formation, the slaty glantz-coal of Werner, burning dully with little flame, emitting an offensive and unwholesome vapour, and therefore disagreeable for domestic use, but excellent for malting or for the forge. Iron was raised here, and two hundred years ago was an article of export, through the port of Waterford, to London. The works were carried on as long as the forests afforded materials for fuel. Potters' earth is also raised, and applied, in the neighbourhood of Mountmellick, to the manufacture of the coarser kinds of earthenwares.

The soil varies greatly in different parts, but is in general fertile. Where it rests on the limestone substratum, it consists mostly of a stiff clay loam, well adapted for the growth of wheat; in other parts it is light and sandy, and produces good crops of oats and barley. The mountain district is wet and boggy, even in the higher parts, the clayey subsoil not admitting free passage for the water, which therefore accumulates on the surface: it is also much encumbered with rock. The low hills that traverse the middle of the county from north to south are capable of culture to their summits, and, where not deemed suitable for the plough, afford rich pasturage for sheep. The tracts on the sides of the rivers, being annually flooded by the overflows of the stream during winter, form rich meadow-land. Bogs are frequent in most parts, supplying ample fuel for domestic purposes. The county was once so thickly wooded as to be almost impenetrable for the passage of large bodies of men; and thence, as well as from the bogs, which, from a different cause, were also difficult to be crossed by those not well acquainted with their peculiarities, the natives were enabled to hold out long against the attempts of the English settlers. But the old woods have long since been cleared away, the only proof of their former existence being discoverable in the numerous remains of timber-trees lying in the bottom of Lough Annagh. A new growth, however, the offspring not of the unaided efforts of nature, but of the hand of modern improvement, has in a great measure restored one of its most beautiful and useful features. Large plantations, chiefly around the demesnes of the gentry, vary the prospect, and tend much to relieve the monotony of the level surface. Most parts present the mansions and seats of resident proprietors; comfortable farm-houses are numerous, and much attention has been paid by many landlords to excite amongst their tenantry a laudable emulation in the neatness of their cottages, and in the judicious cultivation of their little farms. The coal-district, and some few other localities, must, however, form exceptions to this general description,—the appearance of the peasantry, both in their persons and dwellings, exhibiting too frequent instances of the destitution consequent on extreme poverty or confirmed habits of improvidence. With the exception of the lands held by wealthy proprietors in their own hands, and those in the mountainous parts, where grazing is the chief object, the farms are not large, seldom more than from ten to fifteen acres. Wheat is extensively grown, its culture being attended to even on those soils which, during the more confined state of agricultural knowledge, were thought to be unfit for it. The lighter soils answer well for barley and oats. Potatoes are everywhere raised, both for family use and for feeding cattle,—forming also an essential part of the improved rotation system, which is generally practised. Green crops, particularly turnips, are not unusual; and the value of every kind of clover seems to be duly appreciated. The description of crops, and the extent of land under cultivation of late years, have been as follows:

| Crop | Acres | |---------------|-------| | Wheat | 18,873| | Oats | 32,397| | Barley, bere, rye, beans and peas | 11,219 | | Potatoes | 19,617| | Turnips | 14,695| | Other green crops | 2,250 | | Flax | 14 | | Meadow and clover | 40,685|

Total: 151,831

Much attention is given to the introduction of implements and machines of the best description,—the clumsy and artificial vehicles, ploughs, and harrows formerly in use being scarcely to be met with except in districts little capable of being brought into profitable agricultural production. The breed of every kind of cattle has been improved during the last forty or fifty years, to a degree that scarcely could have been anticipated at the commencement of the period. Dairies are numerous and highly productive. Butter is the produce chiefly attended to, and large quantities are prepared for export. In 1838 the stock of the country included 14,197 horses, 69,370 cattle, 80,012 sheep, and 32,921 pigs; and the total value of live stock was £689,000.

From the preceding statement it may easily be inferred that the character of the population is almost exclusively agricultural. The only place in which manufactures have been introduced is Mountmellick. Several branches of the woollen, linen, and cotton trade have been undertaken there, but without much success; coarse woollens and cotton for the supply of the surrounding districts being the only kinds fabricated. Tanning is carried on to some extent; flour-mills are large and numerous; and there are some extensive distilleries and breweries. In 1852 an extensive establishment was formed here for the manufacture of sugar from beet-root, but subsequently the experiment proved unprofitable, and is not likely to be repeated, it being evident that the article cannot be successfully manufactured in competition with colonial and foreign sugar. The Grand Canal, a branch of which runs from Monasterevan to Mountmellick, conveys much of the produce of the county to Dublin, either for sale there or for export. The Barrow serves the same purpose with respect to Waterford. The Great Southern and Western Railway crosses the county from N.E. to S.W., having stations at Portarlington, Maryborough, Mountrath, &c., and connecting it with Dublin, Limerick, and Cork.

There are many remains of ancient edifices, both ecclesiastical and military. Amongst the most remarkable of the former are the extensive ruins of the abbey of Aghaboe, once the seat of the bishopric of Ossory; the ruins of Aghmacart, and of several others of lesser note. The site of the abbey of Timahoe can be ascertained only by the pillar-tower there, which is supposed to have stood in its immediate vicinity. Of the military antiquities, the most ancient is a fortress placed on the summit of a hill in the south-west of the county, and called Bawnachra; it consists of a circular inclosure surrounded by a rampart and fosse. The ancient fortress of Dunamase, situated about four miles south-east of Maryborough, on the summit of a precipitous hill rising abruptly from the middle of a large plain, and once the chief residence of the O'Mores, presents a very picturesque appearance. Lea Castle, the fine ruins of which stand on the right bank of the Barrow, about 2 miles below Portarlington, was formerly a place of considerable strength, erected by the Fitzgeralds in 1260, burnt by Edward Bruce in 1315, afterwards rebuilt, and finally reduced to ruins by Cromwell's army in 1650. Borris-in-Ossory on the Nore, and Castlecuffe in Tinnehinch, built by the celebrated republican leader Sir Charles Coote, were also places of considerable strength. Amongst the modern mansions are those of the Earl of Portarlington at Emo, and of Sir Charles Coote, at Ballyfin, near Mountrath, two of the finest modern structures in the Italian style to be found in the kingdom.

Maryborough, the county town, situated nearly in the centre of the county, presents few features to arrest attention. It was a borough entitled to send representatives to Parliament; but this, the only important privilege to a small town, was abolished at the Union, the other corporate functions decayed, and were extinguished by the Municipal Corporations Act. The town is now under the superintendence of town commissioners. The chief buildings are the county court-house, the jail, the infirmary, and the district lunatic asylum. The population in 1851 was 2635. That of the other towns having upwards of 1000 inhabitants each was in the same year respectively as follows: Mountmellick, 3657; Portarlington, originally a settlement of French refugees, and formerly of some note as a place of elementary education, 2728; Mountrath, 2101; Graiguen, which is, strictly speaking, a suburb of Carlow, though in a different county, 1527; Ballynaskill, 1109; Straibally, near which is the Dun of Clopoe, an isolated rock perforated by subterraneous cavities, 1326; and Abbeyelex, which, though amongst the smallest, is the neatest in external appearance, 1341.