country of western Africa, comprising, as its name implies, the regions watered by the Senegal and the Gambia. It lies between N. Lat. 10° and 17°, W. Long. 8° and 17° 30'; bounded on the N. by the Sahara, E. by the Soodan or Nigritia; S. by Sierra-Leone, and W. by the Atlantic; area, about 381,500 square miles.

Except a short distance on the southern side, the country boundaries is entirely encircled with natural limits. On the W. lies the ocean; on the N. the course of the Senegal forms a clear line of demarcation between the Sahara and Senegambia; on the E. and S.E., the mountains which divide the Senegal and Gambia from the valley of the Niger separate it from Soodan; and there is only an arbitrary line from the source of the Rio-Grande to Cape Verga, which forms the southern limit of Senegambia, and the northern of Sierra-Leone. The coast line extends from the mouth of the Senegal to Cape Roxo nearly due S., with the exception of the peninsula of Cape Verd, which stretches to the W., forming the extreme point of Africa in that direction. At Cape Roxo the direction of the coast changes to S.E., which continues till beyond the limits of Senegambia. Beside those already mentioned, the only considerable promontory along the shore is Cape St Marie, forming the S. side of the estuary of the Gambia. There are no arms of the sea running into the land, nor any indentations, except the mouths of the Senegal, Gambia, Rio-Grande, and Nufiez. The only islands along the coast are those of Senegal, Gorée, and the numerous group of the Bissio Islands. The coast of the northern part of Senegambia resembles very much that of the Sahara, of which it is a continuation. It is almost entirely low, barren, and monotonous, bordered with ridges of sandy dunes, and only interrupted in a few places by rocky cliffs and plateaus. Towards the S. of the country the appearance of the coast is somewhat different, on account of the many small rivers which enter the sea, forming islands and deltas; and bringing down a quantity of rich alluvial soil, on which a luxuriant vegetation flourishes; haohabs, mangroves, and palms growing close to the edges of the rivers and the ocean.

From the coast there stretches inland a vast level expanse, occupying more than the half of Senegambia. This mountainous plain is about 150 miles at the S., and widens towards the N. and rivers, to a breadth of 200 miles. East of this lies a mountainous region, which occupies all the rest of the country. Though not very lofty, these mountains are extensive and intricate, sending off many branches and offshoots from the principal mass. To the E., they descend steeply to the valley of the Niger; towards the south they stretch continuously into Sierra-Leone and the interior of Guinea; towards the W., they descend by a series of terraces to the plain of Senegambia; and towards the N., they extend across the Senegal for a short distance into the Sahara. In this mountainous region there are many plateaux and valleys stretching generally from S. to N., through which the rivers of the country take their course. No accurate measurements have been taken of any of the summits in Senegambia, but the N.E. portion, which is the loftiest, as well as the wildest, most impervious, and inhospitable, is not probably more than 6000 feet above the sea; while the general elevation of the table-land varies from 1200 to 1500 feet. The declivity towards the W. is steepest near the S. of the country, where the summit of Mount Sangari, not far removed from the plain, attains an elevation of be- between 5000 and 6000 feet. The plateau of Senegambia is in many respects analogous to that of Abyssinia, near the opposite extremity of Africa. These two regions resemble each other in the character of their mountains, the terraces by which they descend to the low ground, and the nature and productions of the soil; and they seem like two bastions at the extremities of the long level tract of Soodan. The chief rivers of Senegambia are the Senegal, Gambia, Rio-Grande, and Nunez; all of which rise among the mountains, and fall into the Atlantic.

The geological structure of the country has not yet been thoroughly investigated, especially towards the interior. The flat region along the coast is very uniform in its character. It consists of masses of sand and clay, along with a loose red soil, containing in some places numerous sea-mussels. In some places, as at Cape Verd and Cape Roxo, masses of sandstone occur; those at the latter place, by their red colour, have given the name to the promontory. Clay-slate is also met with; and here and there these Neptunian formations are interrupted by basaltic, amygdaloid, and volcanic rocks. Thus the island of Goree consists of basalt; the Bissao Islands, of scoriae and other volcanic substances; and a large part of the coast north of the Nunez, of basalt and amygdaloid. The foundation of the mountains consists in some places of clay-slate, but more commonly of granite, porphyry, syenite, and trachyte. Mica slate and ironstone are also found in these regions. Excellent iron, as well as considerable quantities of gold, are obtained among the mountains. Many of the valleys in this region have a fertile soil, and so has the land along the banks of the Gambia and along the shore to the S. of that river; but in the rest of Senegambia the soil is of great sterility.

The climate is one of the hottest on the surface of the earth, and the sun's heat is so intense as to be dreaded even by the natives. On the Senegal, where for eight months in the year hot dry winds blow from the E. over the whole length of the burning soil of the Sahara, the thermometer at 6 o'clock a.m. stands at 82° or 84°; and at mid-day even in the shade rises above 89°. In the valley of the Gambia, too, the heat is exceedingly oppressive; at some places in May the thermometer stands the whole day at 104°. Even in the hilly country, as high degrees of temperature are not seldom experienced. The atmosphere, on the whole, is extremely unhealthy, especially for Europeans; some districts, and some times of the year, are more favourable than others, but these are merely degrees of insularity. There are two seasons, a dry and a rainy one. In the former, which lasts from November to June, the air is clear; and the lakes and standing water are dried up. The rainy season is introduced by tremendous thunderstorms; the rivers overflow the flat land, and form extensive marshes; the wind generally blows from the W. or N.W.; and all kinds of vegetation spring up with the utmost luxuriance. This season is the more unhealthy, and during its continuance a dangerous marsh fever prevails.

The vegetable productions of Senegambia resemble those of the other parts, especially the tropical parts of West Africa, and are not very remarkable for the variety of their forms. For a considerable distance from the seashore the vegetation, except along the banks of the rivers, consists entirely of long grasses, which grow up during the wet season, and when dried up are burned by the natives, so as to leave the ground entirely bare, with only here and there a few mimosa groves. On the ground inundated by the rivers, however, there grow mangroves, acacias, mimosas, oil-palms, and the gigantic baobab, or monkey bread-tree, which, though not very high, has sometimes a circumference of 77 feet. The whole flora of the maritime plain of Senegambia has a considerable resemblance to that of the E. coast of Africa, especially of Abyssinia.

The productions of the interior are not so well known as those of the coast. Dense forests begin near the foot of the mountains, and clothe their acclivities up to a certain height. Above this limit grow the ceiba-palm, and the shea or butter-tree, which furnishes here, as in the neighbouring countries, an important article of food. The extent of cultivation throughout the country depends much more on the degree of civilization of the people than on the capabilities of the soil. In some places, especially near the villages of the Mandingos, there are tracts of land very well cultivated; in others, very little attention is paid to agriculture. Besides rice, maize, and other grains, cotton, indigo, tobacco, sugar-canes, manioc, yams, pistachio and arachis nuts are raised.

The animals of Senegambia also resemble, to a considerable extent, those of Eastern Africa. It abounds especially in monkeys and elephants. Large herds of the latter range the forests on the Senegal. Beasts of prey of various kinds, especially lions, panthers, and hyenas are also found; as well as antelopes, buffaloes, boars, and hippopotamuses. Fish and alligators abound in the rivers; and turtles and oysters on the sea-coast. Of domestic animals, there are horses, small, but swift and spirited; asses; horned cattle; sheep; and goats; besides a number of camels in the regions near the Sahara.

Senegambia is, on the whole, well peopled, especially in the mountainous region; for the plains for the most part admit only of a migratory population. The inhabitants are divided into a great number of small tribes, differing in many cases very remarkably in their physical appearance, language, and character. With reference to these characteristics, the multitude of small states may be reduced to a few great groups; the most important of which are these three—the Jolots, Mandingos, and Foolahs. The Jolots once formed a powerful kingdom in the plain between the Senegal and the Gambia, and they still occupy that country, though they are divided into a number of petty states. Their bodies are strong and well proportioned; and their features regular and handsome, approaching those of Europeans. Their hair, however, is crisp and woolly; and their colour is the deepest black of any race, resembling polished ebony. They speak a language that agrees with that of the Kaffirs in some peculiarities hardly found in any other tongue. In character, they are energetic and warlike. The Mandingos originally came from the mountainous district of Manding, in the extreme S.E. of Senegambia, where they are still settled; but they have spread by conquest and migration down the southern terraces of the mountains to the coast near the mouth of the Gambia. Their features have more of the negro cast, but their complexion is a shade lighter than that of the Jolots. They are very industrious, especially the Mohammedan branches of the people, and exhibit a good deal of intelligence. The Mandingos are supposed to be the most numerous of all the races that inhabit Senegambia. The Foolahs originally occupied the small country called Foolah-du in the N.E. of Senegambia, but from that region they have spread themselves far and wide in all directions. Within Senegambia they have occupied the kingdom of Timbo in the S.E., and that of Foota-Toro in the low land, on the Senegal; and in Soodan, under the name of Fellatas, they have acquired extensive dominions. Their features and complexion approach very closely to the European type; their hair is long and silky; and in intellectual and moral character they are much superior to the other African races. They are divided into various nations of different degrees of civilization. There are various other tribes in Senegambia of less size and importance; such are the Serracolets, who carry on the trade with the French along the Senegal; the Sereres, near Cape Verd; the Jolas in the south; and many others. The religion of the Senegambians is partly heathenism and partly Mohammedanism. Christianity has made progress among the natives only at a few places along the coast. Heathenism appears under the form of fetish worship, but is not accompanied here with such bloody rites as are common in many parts of Guinea. Mohammedanism has made progress chiefly among the Mandingo and Foolah tribes; much less among the Jolofs, and hardly at all in the smaller nations. For a series of years it has made great advances in Senegambia, through the zeal of the marabouts or priests, and the erection of schools for teaching the Koran. The natives who have embraced the religion of Mahomet are favourably distinguished above the heathen tribes for industry, intelligence, hospitality, and clemency. The form of government varies considerably in the different states of the country. Among the Foolahs it is generally a despotic monarchy, the sovereign being at the same time the chief priest of the community; while in the other states the monarch is generally limited in power by the nobles or chieftains; and in some the government approaches the aristocratic, or even the democratic form. Among many of the tribes which are less civilized hardly any bond of union subsists beyond what is necessary for self-defence.

Divisions. The names of the principal states of Senegambia are as follows:—Belonging to the Jolofs—Wallo, at the mouth of the Senegal; south of it, Cayan; further south, Baol; still further, Sin; and Jolor, east of the last two. Belonging to the Mandingos—Bambaruk, between the Senegal and Bafalene; Dentilla, between the latter and the Gambia; Tenda, to the west of the foregoing, along the Gambia; Wulli, north-west of Tenda; Yani, further west, on the north of the Gambia; Salum, still further west; and Barra, between Sin and the Gambia. Besides these, which all lie contiguous to each other, there are two isolated Mandingo states—Manding in the extreme east, and Kaarta north of the Senegal. Belonging to the Foolahs—Foota-Toro, south of the Senegal, near its mouth; Bondou, south of that; Kasson, north of the Senegal; Ludamar, still further north; Foolahdu between the upper branches of that river; and Foota-Jallon, south of the Mandingo tribes. Other native tribes—Galam or Kajaga, Jallon-Kadu, the country of the Felups, of the Papels, &c. The European settlements in Senegambia belong to the British, the French, and the Portuguese. The British settlements are in the middle of the coast, about the Gambia (see Gambia); the French north of them, chiefly on the Senegal (see Senegal); and the Portuguese south of the British, comprising the Bissao Islands, and some stations near the Rio-Grande. Some commerce is carried on between Senegambia and the countries of Soodan. Salt, slaves, and gold are the principal articles of merchandise. The total population of the country is estimated at nine millions.