a county in the west of England, lying between N. Lat. 50° 49' and 51° 30'; W. Long. 2° 14' and 3° 50'; bounded on the N.W. by the Bristol Channel, N.E. by Gloucestershire, E. by Wiltshire, S. by Dorsetshire and Devonshire, and W. by Devonshire. Its boundary-line has considerable irregularities, and its general form is that of a crescent. Its greatest length from E. to W. is 68 miles; extreme breadth, 43; area, 1645 square miles, or 1,032,800 acres. The county is hilly, and is divided naturally into three parts by two ranges of hills, between which lie wide plains and valleys. The two ranges are the Mendip Hills and the Quantock Hills. The former extend from the hills near Frome, on the borders of Wiltshire, in the direction of W. by N., to the Bristol Channel. Their length is 25 or 30 miles; their breadth, 6 or 7 in some places; and several of their summits exceed 1000 feet in height. In the W. of the county rise the Quantock Hills, the other principal ridge in Somersetshire. Their direction is nearly parallel to that of the Mendip Hills, and their culminating point is Bagborough Station, or Will's Neck, 1270 feet above the sea. A greater elevation, 1668 feet, is reached by Dunkerry Beacon, still further W. than the Quantock Hills. Besides these hills, there are in the extreme N.E. of Somersetshire several peaks, irregularly grouped, about Bath and Bristol. Such are Lansdown, 813 feet high; Dundry Hill, 790 feet; and several others. The eastern and southern boundaries of the county, from Bath to Yeovil, and from thence to Wellington, are also occupied by detached heights, broken by several transverse valleys. To the N.E. of the Mendip Hills, between them and those about Bristol and Bath, the country is watered by the Avon and the Yeo—the former marking the boundary between Somersetshire and Gloucestershire, and both falling into the Bristol Channel. The central portion of the county, between the Mendip and the Quantock Hills, is watered by the Axe, the Brue, and the Parrett, all flowing N.W. into the Bristol Channel. The last of these rivers is joined by the Isle; another Yeo, also called the Ivel; and the Tone, which waters the region to the S.W. of the Quantock Hills. Between the last of these rivers and the Parrett, lies an elevated tract about 100 acres in extent, called the Isle of Athelney, where Alfred the Great is said to have fled for refuge from the Danes. It was anciently secluded from the surrounding country, not only by these rivers, but by a marsh which has been long since drained. In some parts of the county there are still extensive marshes—as about the mouths of the Yeo and other rivers in the N.E.—and also between the Mendip and the Quantock Hills. The coast is indented by several bays of small, and by one of considerable size. The last is Bridgewater Bay, about the middle of the coast, where its direction changes from a southerly to a westerly one. Of much smaller size are Sand Bay, and Uphill Bay to the N., and the shallow Bay of Porlock to the W. of that of Bridgewater. The greater part of the shore of Somersetshire is lined with sands, but these are in general of no great breadth; and the country immediately behind them is either occupied with hills, more or less lofty and steep, or with low marshy tracts of ground. Indeed, hilly as Somersetshire is, there is in it a larger extent of marshes and fens than in most of the counties of England. The geological formation of the country is various. Oolitic strata prevail in the N.E.; and it is of these that the hills in this quarter are formed; and from these is obtained the stone generally known as Bath stone. The oolite is quarried at Dundry Hill and other places. Beneath these deposits beds of lias are generally found. New red sandstone occupies the valley of the Avon, and is surmounted in some places by limestone. There are several beds of coal in this region, as well as strata of old red sandstone and mountain limestone. The former of the two last forms the central ridge of the Mendip Hills, flanked on either side with bands of mountain limestone. The hills on the eastern and southern boundary of the county are of the same geological formation as those in the N.E. The western part of Somersetshire consists chiefly of old red sandstone and slate; the latter, which is similar to the slaty rocks of Devonshire, forming the wild region called Exmoor Forest, W. of the Quantock Hills. The hills themselves consist of a coarse gritstone, belonging also to the slate formation in the N. of Devonshire. The climate of Somersetshire is healthy, and well suited to the production of the crops usual in England. The soil, too, is in general good, though presenting a considerable variety in different places. On the Mendip and Quantock Hills, as well as in Exmoor Forest, the country is very bleak and barren; and is valuable more for the minerals beneath the surface, than for any productions of the soil. These hilly and barren portions of the county, however, bear but a small proportion to the whole; and between them are to be seen the richest meadows and arable land, the value of which more than counterbalances the sterility of the hills. In the better parts of the county, it may rather be described as rich than beautiful. The wide vale of Taunton has a very rich soil, and produces large crops of excellent wheat. There are no extensive forests, but upwards of 20,000 acres in various parts are covered with wood; which is, in many places, of a large and stately description. The extent of orchards, especially when in full bloom, produces a pleasing effect, and in some measure compensates for the want of woods. Wheat, oats, and barley are the kinds of corn most extensively raised. Next to them come potatoes, beans, flax, and hemp. Many improvements in agriculture have been recently introduced; although, even yet, the county cannot be said to be distinguished for the excellence of its farming.
As Somersetshire contains, on the banks of its rivers, large tracts of the richest meadow lands, the most valuable branch of its rural economy is the fattening of cattle and the management of the numerous dairies. The oxen, bred chiefly in the less fertile pastures of Devonshire, when grazed in this county, afford the best beef; and furnish, in great numbers, the markets of the metropolis, as well as those of Bristol and Bath, in their immediate vicinity. Sheep of the Leicester or Southdown breeds are fed in large numbers on the more elevated pastures of the county. Large numbers of hogs are fattened, and the bacon of Somersetshire is of excellent quality. The produce of the dairy is of the best kind. The cheese of Cheddar has obtained great celebrity, but that made in many other parts, and frequently sold as Gloucester, is equal to any in the world. The next agricultural product is cider, which forms almost the universal beverage of the working classes. The consumption of it within the county is very large, and some is sent to distant parts. The county also contains a few hop gardens.
The mineral resources of Somersetshire are very considerable. Of metals, the most important found here is iron, which is obtained in various places, near Bristol, in the Mendip Hills, and in the Brendon Hills, in the extreme west of the county. The total quantity of ore raised in Somersetshire, in 1858, was 26,041 tons; valued at L13,621. Lead and silver are also obtained from the Mendip Hills. Of the former, there were raised in 1858 1000 tons of ore, yielding 435 tons of metal; and of the latter, 1295 ounces were obtained. The existence of coal in some places has already been noticed. There are in all thirty-five collieries. No separate return is given of the coal produced in this county; but the total for Gloucestershire, Somersetshire, and Devonshire, in 1858, was 1,125,250 tons. Other valuable minerals are obtained in the county, such as building-stone, slate, gypsum, &c.; zinc, calamine, and copper exist, but are not worked to any great extent.
This is a manufacturing district for various productions. The manufacture of fine woollen cloth is extensive, chiefly at Frome, where it employs a large number of hands; and it is also carried on at Road, at Beckington, Charter-Henton, Twerton, near Bath, Lyncombe and Wedcombe, and at Freshford. In another part of the county, at Wellington and Milverton, cloth of an inferior description is manufactured. A considerable number of men are employed in making sail-cloth, sacking, and girth-web, at Crewkerne and the parishes of East Coker, Merriott, West Hatch, and North Perrot. At Chard and at Ilminster, silk and lace, and the machinery for those fabrics, are made; and the same trades afford considerable occupation at Bruton and Taunton. At Yeovil, and some of the towns and villages near it, the chief trade is glove-making, which gives employment to a great number of people. Edge tools are made at Wells, and also at Whately, Emborough, and some other places. At Nailsea the manufacture of glass is carried on; paper-making and tanning at Cheddar; and there are also in the county an iron-work, and a furnace in blast.
The foreign commerce of Somersetshire passes chiefly through Bristol, which is the mart for such goods as are required in distant countries. Some of the woollen goods which are manufactured at Taunton and Wellington are shipped from Exeter. The far greater portion of the productions of the county are, however, destined to supply the demand for internal consumption. The cattle, butter, and cheese are chiefly sent to London; the linen and woollen goods are distributed through the western and Welsh counties, and, in general, are destined more for the home than for foreign markets.
The means of internal communication are roads, railways, and canals, all of excellent construction. There are two roads from London to Bristol, uniting near Bath; another from Bristol to Bridgewater, and thence to Taunton and Exeter; one from London through Salisbury and Yeovil to Exeter; and many others. The Great Western Railway enters the county near Bath, and extends to Bristol. From this place the Bristol and Exeter Railway traverses the county, and passes Bridgewater and Taunton. Short branches connect this line with Cleveden, Weston-super-Mare, and Glastonbury. The Wilts, Somerset, and Weymouth Railway diverges from the Great Western, and passes Frome, Castle Cary, and Yeovil. There is also another line from the last of these towns to the Bristol and Exeter Railway. All these lines are on the broad gauge, being connected with the Great Western. The chief canals in Somersetshire are a small part of the Kennet and Avon Canal, which connects the Avon with the Thames; the Somersetshire Coal Canal, a branch of the former, extending to Paulton; the canal from Glastonbury to the lower part of the Brue; and that from Bridgewater to Taunton.
The civil divisions of the county are the eastern and the western, each of which contains 2000. Almost the whole of it belongs to the diocese of Bath and Wells; which is subdivided into the arch-deaconries of Bath, Wells, and Taunton. According to the census of 1851 Somersetshire contained, in all, 1129 places of worship, with 288,333 sittings. Of the former, 553 belonged to the Church of England, 309 to Wesleyan Methodists, 110 to Independents, 89 to Baptists, 15 to Quakers, 12 to Brethren, 8 each to Unitarians and Roman Catholics, 6 to Mormons, &c. The whole number of day-schools, at the same period, was 1381, with 53,720 scholars. Of these 490 were public schools, with 36,512 scholars; and 891 private schools, with 17,208 scholars. There were also 719 Sunday-schools, attended by 56,090 pupils; and 19 evening schools for adults, attended by 272. Of the last, however, 17 were also used as day-schools.
The titles derived from this county are those of the Dukes of Somerset and Wellington; the marquises of Lansdowne, Bath, and Bristol; the Earls of Poulett and Ilchester; and the Baron Mendip. Since the reform bill each division of the county has returned two members to the House of Commons. The seats of the nobility and gentry, especially of the latter, near Bath and Bristol, are numerous; and our limits allow only of noticing the most distinguished of them, viz., Longleat, the seat of the Marquis of Bath; Hinton, the seat of Earl Poulett; and the houses of the Earl of Carnarvon, Sir Alexander Hood, Mr Miles, and Colonel Gore Langton.
Two members are chosen for each of the cities of Bath and Wells, and two for each of the boroughs, Taunton and Bridgewater. Bristol, which is partly in this county, returns two members. The boroughs of Minehead, Ilchester, and Milburn-Port, which chose two members each, Somerset have been disfranchised, and the town of Frome has been made a parliamentary borough, returning one member. Ilchester contains the jail and county court, but the assizes in the spring are held at Taunton, and in the summer at Wells and Bridgewater alternately.
Somersetshire contains antiquities belonging to almost every period of English history. There is a druidical circle at Stanton Drew, near Bristol; Roman camps at Bath, Ilchester, and several other places; Saxon camps at Wiveliscombe, Porlock, and elsewhere; ancient abbeys at Glastonbury, and Muchelney; several ruined priories; cathedrals at Bath and Wells, and numerous old churches. Among the illustrious natives of this county are Roger Bacon, born at Ilchester, Blake at Bridgewater, Cudworth at Aller, Fielding at Sharpam, and Locke at Wrington. Some important historical events are connected with Somersetshire. It was anciently inhabited by a tribe called the Hedaui, in the east, and by the Cimbri in the west. Under the Romans it was included in the province of Britannia Prima. At the time of the Saxon invasion this county was the scene of sharp conflicts between the invaders and the Britons; and King Arthur defeated the Saxons under Cerdic, at Mount Baden, supposed to be in the vicinity of Bath. This occurred in 520; and it was not till about 658 that Somersetshire was finally conquered by the Saxons. There were also several conflicts in this county at a later era between the English and the Danes. From this time onwards, however, no important events took place here till the great civil war of the seventeenth century. In 1643, the parliamentary forces were defeated at Lansdown Hill, near Bath; and Taunton was defended for a long time by Blake against 10,000 Royalist troops, until it was relieved by Fairfax in 1645. Somersetshire was also the scene of the unfortunate expedition of Monmouth against Charles II. in 1685. He landed in Dorsetshire on the 11th of June; and after taking Bridport by storm, proceeded through Taunton to Bridgewater and Glastonbury. After an unsuccessful attack on Bristol, he was defeated by the king's forces, and obliged to fall back on Bridgewater. Here he made a last effort to gain a victory by surprise, but was totally defeated at Sedgemoor, 4 miles S.E. of Bridgewater. This was, according to Lord Macaulay, the last fight deserving the name of a battle that has been fought on English ground. The county suffered severely from the severities of the victorious party after the suppression of the rebellion. The population of Somersetshire, at the several periods of the census, has been as follows:—(1801) 273,577; (1811) 302,836; (1821) 355,789; (1831) 403,795; (1841) 435,599; (1851) 443,916.