a seaport-town of Egypt, situated at the head of the Gulf of Suez, the western and longer of the two arms in which the Red Sea terminates,—76 miles E. of Cairo, in Lat. 29° 57' 30", Long. 32° 31' 30" E. It is a small town, having a stationary population of only about 1600, but is of importance as being one of the stations on the overland line of route to India. The streets are unpaved, and houses are in general poorly built. The only respectable building in the place is a large and handsome hotel recently erected by the Pasha. The town is protected on three sides by a wall mounting a few cannon. It has a good quay, but only boats of not more than 60 tons can come up to the town, larger vessels having to anchor in the roadstead about two miles off. The country around Suez is a perfect desert, no fresh water nor any kind of verdure being to be seen, and hence water and all kinds of provisions have to be brought to it from a great distance.

Suez, Gulf of. See Red Sea.

Suez, Isthmus of, a neck of land connecting the two continents of Asia and Africa, and separating the Red Sea from the Mediterranean. Its breadth between the two seas is 90 miles, from the Gulf of Pelusium to that of Suez. The connection of the Mediterranean with the Red Sea by means of a canal has long been a very desirable object, and even as early as the time of the Pharaohs, several centuries before the Christian era, such a canal was constructed, extending from the Nile near Belbeis to the Gulf of Suez. (See Egypt.) In recent times Napoleon projected a canal across the isthmus, and predicted that the execution of this great work would promote the prosperity and ensure the safety of the Turkish empire. Since the overland route was established, the importance of such a work has been deeply felt, and in 1852 M. F. de Lesseps, a French engineer, conceived the idea of forming a joint-stock company for cutting a ship-canal across the isthmus. In 1854 he received a firman from Mohammed Said, the viceroy of Egypt, conferring upon him the exclusive privilege of forming a company for that purpose. He then proceeded to Constantinople to obtain the adhesion of the Porte, and at first it is said that the Sultan was favourable to the scheme, but he deferred giving his sanction to it at the instance, it is said, of Lord Stratford de Redcliffe, the British ambassador, who wished to communicate with his government. In the summer of 1855 M. de Lesseps came to England for the purpose of giving information on the subject of his scheme. The same year a commission of eminent engineers of various countries was appointed to make an examination of the proposed route. The report drawn up by them was to the effect "that the direct canal between Pelusium and Suez was the only solution of the problem, and that there existed no other practical method of joining the Red Sea with the Mediterranean; that the execution of this maritime canal was easy, and its success certain; and that the two harbours required to be constructed, as Suez and Pelusium presented no difficulties but such as were of an ordinary character." A few days after the reports of the commission, on 5th January 1856, the charter of concession was granted by the Viceroy of Egypt. According to it the works to be executed are—1. A canal navigable by large vessels between Suez and Pelusium; 2. A canal of irrigation adapted to the river traffic of the Nile, and connecting that river with the Suez Canal. 3. Two branches for irrigation and supply, striking out of the preceding canal in the directions respectively of Suez and Pelusium. These works to be completed within six years, and four-fifths of the workmen employed to be Egyptians; Lake Témsah to be converted into an inland harbour fit for vessels of the highest tonnage; a harbour of refuge to be constructed at the entrance of the maritime canal into the Gulf of Pelusium; and the necessary improvements to be made in the port and roadstead of Suez. The Egyptian government to have a claim of 15 per cent. on the net profits of each year. It is farther provided that the canal shall always remain open as a neutral passage to every merchant-ship; that the maximum toll for passage shall be 10 francs per ton on ships and per head on passengers; and that the provisions of this charter shall be in force for ninety-nine years after the opening of the canal.

The isthmus from Pelusium to Suez forms a longitudinal depression. It is believed that at one time the two seas were united, and even now a considerable portion of the soil is below the level of the two seas. There are three of these depressions or basins,—the Bitter Lakes, Lake Témsah, and Lake Menzaleh. The basin of the Bitter Lakes extends over an area of 81,612 acres, and is altogether dry. Lake Témsah is midway between the two seas, forming, as it were, the centre of the isthmus. It covers about 5000 acres, and it is said that at very little cost it might be made into a large and safe inland harbour. On the north-west mouth of the isthmus, and separated from the Mediterranean by a narrow strip of land which the waves overlap in rough weather, is Lake Menzaleh, which communicates with the Mediterranean. The rest of the isthmus has an elevation of from 5 to 8 feet above the level of the two seas, with the exception of two inconsiderable ridges, the Serapeum and El Guisr,—the former having a medium height of 30, the latter of 45 feet. The cutting in the latter of these will extend over about 5 miles. In November 1858 the subscription was opened, and by the end of the month the entire capital of L8,000,000 was subscribed for; and the company was definitely constituted on the 5th of January 1859. The Ship Canal is to be 90 miles in length, 330 feet wide at the water-line, and its bottom 20 feet below low water-level in the Mediterranean. The present port of Suez is to be improved and deepened, and a harbour is to be formed in the Gulf of Pelusium. Lake Témsah is to be formed into an inland harbour, communicating with the Nile by means of a canal 80 feet wide on the water-line, and about 22 feet deep.

We have here followed principally the account of M. de Lesseps, but it is evident that, in such an undertaking, there are difficulties to contend with that do not seem to have been sufficiently taken into account. The works employing many thousands of men are to be carried on in a sandy desert many miles from a spot where a drop of water or a morsel of food can be obtained; while the canal, when completed, will always be in danger of being injured by drifting sand. From the nature of the Gulf of Pelusium, a harbour can only be formed here by means of piers carried out for several miles, while the immense quantity of sand and mud carried down by the Nile, constantly drifting about on this coast, will render it liable to be blocked up by the formation of bars.

A railway has been constructed from Alexandria to Cairo, and a portion of the continuation to Suez is now open. Sufeid Koh, or the White Mountain, a range in Afghanistan, running from E. to W., parallel to the Hindoo Koosh, to the south of the Valley of the Cabool, about N. Lat. 23° 50′; E. Lon. from 69° 30′ to 71° 16′. It is chiefly of primary formation, and consists of three parallel chains, the two lower of which are covered with pine-forests; while the highest is rocky and precipitous, rising above the line of perpetual snow. The culminating point of the range is 14,100 feet above the sea.