CALCUTTA, the capital of the province of Bengal, and of all the British possessions in the East Indies, is situated on the river Huguey, a branch of the Ganges, about 100 miles from the sea, in N. Lat. 23. and Long. 88. 28. E. from Greenwich. It is but a modern city, built on the site of a village called Gowindpur. The English first obtained the Mogul's permission to settle in this place in the year 1690; and Mr. Job Charnock, the company's agent, made choice of the spot on which the city stands, on account of a large shady grove which grew there; though in other respects it was the worst he could have pitched upon; for three miles to the north coast, there is a salt water lake, which overflows in September, and when the flood retires in December, leaves behind such a quantity of filth and other putrescent matter, as renders the air very unhealthy. The custom of the Gentoos throwing the dead bodies of their poor people into the river is also very disgusting, and undoubtedly contributes to render the place unhealthy, as well as the cause already mentioned.
Calcutta is now become a large and populous city, being supposed at present to contain 500,000 inhabitants. It is elegantly built, at least the part inhabited by the English; but the rest, and that the greatest part, is built after the fashion of the cities of India in general. The plan of all these is nearly the same; their streets are exceedingly confined, narrow, and crooked, with a vast number of ponds, reservoirs, and gardens interspersed. A few of the streets are paved with brick. The houses are built, some with brick, others with mud, and a still greater number with bamboos and mats; all which different kinds of fabrics standing intermixed with one another, form a very uncouth appearance. The brick houses are seldom above two stories high, but those of mud and bamboos are only one, and are covered with thatch. The roofs of the brick houses are flat and terraced. These, however, are much fewer in number than the other two kinds; so that fires, which often happen, do not sometimes meet with a brick house to obstruct their progress in a whole street. Within these 20 or 25 years Calcutta has been greatly improved both in appearance and in the salubrity of its air: the streets have been properly drained, and the ponds filled; thereby removing a vast surface of stagnant water, the exhalations of which were particularly hurtful. The citadel is named Fort William, and is superior as a fortress to any in India; but is now on too extensive a scale to answer the purpose for which it was intended, viz. the holding a post in case of extremity. It was begun on this extended plan by Lord Clive immediately after the battle of Plassey. The expence attending it was supposed to amount to two millions sterling.
Calcutta is the emporium of Bengal, and the residence
Calcutta. dence of the governor general of India. Its flourish-
ing state may in a great measure be supposed owing to
the unlimited toleration of all religions allowed here;
the Pagans being suffered to carry their idols in pro-
cession, the Mahomedans not being discounteranced,
and the Roman Catholics being allowed a church.—
At about a mile's distance from the town is a plain
where the natives annually undergo a very strange kind
of penance on the 9th of April; some for the sins
they have committed, others for those they may com-
mit, and others in consequence of a vow made by their
parents. This ceremony is performed in the follow-
ing manner: Thirty bamboos, each about the height
of 20 feet, are erected in the plain above-mentioned.
On the top of these they contrive to fix a swivel, and
another bamboo of thirty feet or more crosses it, at
each end of which hangs a rope. The people pull
down one end of this rope, and the devotee placing
himself under it, the bramin pinches up a large piece
of skin under both the shoulderblades, sometimes in
the breasts, and thrusts a strong iron hook through
each. These hooks have lines of Indian grass hanging
to them, which the priest makes fast to the rope at the
end of the cross bamboo, and at the same time puts a
fast round the body of the devotee, laying it loosely
in the hollow of the hooks, left by the skin's giving
way, he should fall to the ground. When this is done,
the people haul down the other end of the bamboo;
by which means the devotee is immediately lifted up
30 feet or more from the ground, and they run round
as fast as their legs can carry them. Thus the de-
votee is thrown out the whole length of the rope,
where, as he swings, he plays a thousand antic tricks;
being painted and dressed in a very particular manner,
on purpose to make him look more ridiculous. Some
of them continue swinging half an hour, others less.
The devotees undergo a preparation of four days for
this ceremony. On the first and third they abstain
from all kinds of food; but eat fruit on the other
two. During this time of preparation they walk about
the streets in their fantastical dresses, dancing to the
sound of drums and horns; and some to express the
greater ardour of devotion, run a rod of iron quite
through their tongues, and sometimes through their
cheeks also.
Before the war of 1755, Calcutta was commonly
garrisoned by 300 Europeans, who were frequently em-
ployed in conveying the company's vessels from Patna,
loaded with salt-petre, piece goods, opium, and raw
silk. The trade of Bengal alone supplied rich cargoes
for 50 or 60 ships annually, besides what was carried
on in small vessels to the adjacent countries. It was
this flourishing state of Calcutta that probably was one
motive for the nabob Surajah Dowla to attack it in
the year 1756. Having had the fort of Cossimbuzar
delivered up to him, he marched against Calcutta with
all his forces, amounting to 70,000 horse and foot,
with 400 elephants, and invested the place on the 15th
of June. Previous to any hostilities, however, he wrote
a letter to Mr Drake the governor, offering to with-
draw his troops, on condition that he would pay him
his duty on the trade for 15 years past, defray the
expence of his army, and deliver up the black mer-
chants who were in the fort. This being refused, he
attacked one of the redoubts at the entrance of the
town; but was repulsed with great slaughter. On the
16th he attacked another advanced post, but was like-
wise repulsed with great loss. Notwithstanding this
disappointment, however, the attempt was renewed on
the 18th, when the troops abandoned these posts, and
retreated into the fort; on which the nabob's troops
entered the town, and plundered it for 24 hours. An
order was then given for attacking the fort; for which
purpose a small breastwork was thrown up, and two
twelve pounders mounted upon it; but without firing
oftener than two or three times an hour. The go-
vernor then called a council of war, when the captain
of the train informed them, that there was not am-
munition in the fort to serve three days; in conse-
quence of which the principal ladies were sent on board
the ships lying before the fort. They were followed
by the governor, who declared himself a Quaker, and
left the place to be defended by Mr Holwell the second
in council. Besides the governor, four of the coun-
cil, eight gentlemen of the company's service, four
officers, and 100 soldiers, with 52 free merchants, cap-
tains of ships, and other gentlemen, escaped on board
the ships, where were also 59 ladies, with 33 of their
children. The whole number left in the fort was about
250 effective men, with Mr Holwell, four captains,
five lieutenants, six ensigns, and five sergeants; as also
24 sea captains, and 29 gentlemen of the factory. Mr
Holwell then having held a council of war, divided
three chests of treasure among the discontented sol-
diers, making them large promises also, if they be-
haved with courage and fidelity; after which he bold-
ly stood on the defence of the place, notwithstanding
the immense force which opposed him. The attack
was very vigorous; the enemy having got possession of
the houses, galled the English from thence, and drove
them from the bastions; but they themselves were
several times dislodged by the fire from the fort,
which killed an incredible number, with the loss of
only five English soldiers the first day. The attack,
however, was continued till the afternoon of the 20th;
when many of the garrison being killed and wounded,
and their ammunition almost exhausted, a flag of truce
was hung out. Mr Holwell intended to have availed
himself of this opportunity to make his escape on
board the ships, but they had fallen several miles
down from the fort, without leaving even a single
boat to facilitate the escape of those who remained.
In the mean time, however, the back-gate was be-
trayed by the Dutch guard, and the enemy, entering the
fort, killed all they first met, and took the rest prisoners.
The fort was taken before six in the evening; and,
in an hour after, Mr Holwell had three audiences of
the nabob, the last being in the durbar or council.
In all of these the governor had the most positive as-
surances that no harm should happen to any of the
prisoners; but he was surprised and enraged at finding
only 5000. in the fort, instead of the immense trea-
sures he expected; and to this as well as perhaps to the
resentment of the jemmidaars or officers, of whom many
were killed in the siege, we may impute the catastrophe
that followed.
As soon as it was dark, the English prisoners, to
the number of 146, were directed by the jemmidaars
who guarded them, to collect themselves into one
body, and sit down quietly under the arched veranda,
or
Calcutta, or piazza, to the westward of the Black Hole prison. Besides the guard over them, another was placed at the south end of this veranda, to prevent the escape of any of them. About 500 gunmen, with lighted matches, were drawn up on the parade; and soon after the factory was in flames to the right and left of the prisoners, who had various conjectures on this appearance. The fire advanced with rapidity on both sides; and it was the prevailing opinion of the English, that they were to be suffocated between the two fires. On this they soon came to a resolution of rushing on the guard, seizing their scimitars, and attacking the troops upon the parade, rather than be thus tamely roasted to death: but Mr Holwell advanced, and found the Moors were only searching for a place to confine them in. At the time Mr Holwell might have made his escape, by the assistance of Mr Leech, the company's smith, who had escaped when the Moors entered the fort, and returned just as it was dark, to tell Mr Holwell he had provided a boat, and would ensure his escape, if he would follow him through a passage few were acquainted with, and by which he then entered. This might easily have been accomplished, as the guard took little notice of it; but Mr Holwell told Mr Leech, he was resolved to share the fate of the gentlemen and the garrison; to which Mr Leech gallantly replied, that "then he was resolved to share Mr Holwell's fate, and would not leave him."
The guard on the parade advanced, and ordered them all to rise and go into the barracks. Then, with their muskets presented, they ordered them to go into the Black Hole prison; while others, with clubs and scimitars, pressed upon them so strong, that there was no resisting it; but, like one agitated wave impelling another, they were obliged to give way and enter; the rest following like a torrent. Few among them, the soldiers excepted, had the least idea of the dimensions or nature of a place they had never seen; for if they had, they should at all events have rushed upon the guard, and been cut to pieces by their own choice as the lesser evil.
It was about eight o'clock when these 146 unhappy persons, exhausted by continual action and fatigue, were thus crammed together into a dungeon about eighteen feet square, in a close sultry night in Bengal; shut up to the east and south, the only quarters from whence air could reach them, by dead walls, and by a wall and door to the north; open only to the west by two windows, strongly barred with iron, from which they could receive scarce any circulation of fresh air.
They had been but few minutes confined before every one fell into a perspiration so profuse, that no idea can be formed of it. This brought on a raging thirst, which increased in proportion as the body was drained of its moisture. Various expedients were thought of to give more room and air. Every man was stripped, and every hat put in motion: they several times sat down on their hams; but at each time several of the poor creatures fell, and were instantly suffocated or trod to death.
Before nine o'clock every man's thirst grew intolerable, and respiration difficult. Efforts were again made to force the door; but still in vain. Many in-
fuls were used to the guards, to provoke them to fire. Calcutta, in upon the prisoners, who grew outrageous, and many delirious. "Water, water," became the general cry. Some water was brought: but these supplies, like sprinkling water on fire, only served to raise and feed the flames. The confusion became general and horrid from the cries and ravings for water; and some were trampled to death. This scene of misery proved entertainment to the brutal wretches without, who supplied them with water, that they might have the satisfaction of seeing them fight for it, as they phrased it; and held up lights to the bars, that they might lose no part of the inhuman diversion.
Before eleven o'clock, most of the gentlemen were dead, and one-third of the whole. Thirst grew intolerable: but Mr Holwell kept his mouth moist by sucking the perspiration out of his shirt sleeves, and catching the drops as they fell, like heavy rain, from his head and face. By half an hour after eleven, most of the living were in an outrageous delirium. They found that water heightened their uneasiness; and "Air, air," was the general cry. Every insult that could be devised against the guard; all the opprobrious names that the viceroy and his officers could be loaded with, were repeated, to provoke the guard to fire upon them. Every man had eager hopes of meeting the first shot. Then a general prayer to heaven, to hasten the approach of the flames to the right and left of them, and put a period to their misery. Some expired on others; while a steam arose as well from the living as the dead, which was very offensive.
About two in the morning, they crowded so much to the windows, that many died standing, unable to fall by the throng and equal pressure round. When the day broke, the stench arising from the dead bodies was insufferable. At that juncture, the soubah, who had received an account of the havoc death had made among them, sent one of his officers to inquire if the chief survived. Mr Holwell was shown to him; and near six, an order came for their release.
Thus they had remained in this infernal prison from eight at night until six in the morning, when the poor remains of 146 souls, being only 23, came out alive; but most of them in a high putrid fever. The dead bodies were dragged out of the hole by the soldiers, and thrown promiscuously into the ditch of an unfinished ravelin, which was afterwards filled with earth.
The injuries which Calcutta suffered at this time, however, were soon repaired. The place was retaken by Admiral Watson and Colonel Clive, early in 1737; Surajah Dowla was defeated, deposed, and put to death; and Meer Jaffer, who succeeded him in the nabobship, engaged to pay an immense sum for the indemnification of the inhabitants. Since that time, the immense acquisition of territory by the British in this part of the world, with the constant state of security enjoyed by this city, have given an opportunity of embellishing and improving it greatly beyond what it was before.—Among these improvements we may reckon that of Sir William Jones, who on the 15th of January 1784, instituted a society for inquiring into the history civil and natural, the antiquities, arts, sciences, and literature of Asia; and thus the literature
of Europe, and along with it, it is to be hoped, the arts of humanity, beneficence, and peace, have at length obtained a footing in the rich empire of Indostan, so long a prey to the rapine and violence of tyrants and usurpers.