ALEXANDRIA, Modern. It now presents little more than half-ruined houses and rubbish, with a few fragments of those magnificent edifices by which it was once adorned. The estimates of its population have fluctuated remarkably, varying between 5000 and 20,000. Mr Madden, to whom we owe the most recent account (Travels in Turkey, 1829), states the number at 16,000, of whom 9000 are Arabs, 2000 Greeks, 2000 Franks (Europeans); the rest Jews, Copts, &c. The commerce of Alexandria is still extensive, as almost all the commodities imported into and exported from Egypt pass through its port. Both the British and French nations maintain consuls at Alexandria, and of the former nation there are nine considerable mercantile houses established there. The Jewish merchants are also numerous and wealthy; for, though subject to heavier impositions, they carry on their traffic with such economy, and have such a friendly understanding with the collectors of the customs, that they generally undersell Europeans. The late extensive exportation of cotton from Egypt has given an increased importance to Alexandria, and a considerable stir has been created by the naval expeditions equipped there by the pacha.
The present city is a kind of peninsula situated between the two ports. That to the westward was called by the ancients the Portus Eunostos, now the old port, and is by far the best; Turkish vessels only are allowed to anchor there; the other, called the new port, is for the Christians; at the extremity of one of the arms of which stood the famous Pharos. The new port, the only harbour for Europeans, is clogged up with sand, insomuch that in stormy weather ships are liable to bilge; and the bottom being also rocky, the cables soon chafe and part; so that one vessel driving against a second, and that against a third, they are perhaps all lost. Of this there was a fatal instance many years ago, when 42 vessels were dashed to pieces on the mole in a gale of wind from the north-west; and numbers have been since lost there at different times. If it be asked in Europe, why do they not repair the new port? the answer is, that in Turkey they destroy every thing, and repair nothing. The old harbour will be destroyed likewise, as the ballast of vessels has been continually thrown into it for the last 200 years. The spirit of the Turkish government is to ruin the labours of past ages, and destroy the hopes of future times, because ignorant despotism never considers to-morrow.
The country round Alexandria is entirely destitute of water. This must be brought from the Nile by the kalidj, or canal of 12 leagues, which conveys it thither every year at the time of the inundation. It fills the vaults or reservoirs dug under the ancient city, and this provision must serve till the next year. It is evident, therefore, that were a foreign power to take possession, the canal would be shut, and all supplies of water cut off. It is this canal alone which connects Alexandria with Egypt; for, from its situation without the Delta, and the nature of
the soil, it really belongs to the deserts of Africa. Its environs are sandy, flat, and sterile, without trees and without houses; where we meet with nothing but the plant which yields the kali, and a row of palm-trees, which follows the course of the kalidj or canal. The famous tower of Pharos has long since been demolished, and a castle, called Farillon, built in its place. The causeway which joined the island to the continent is broken down, and its place supplied by a strong bridge of several arches.
Some parts of the old walls of the city are yet standing, and present a fine specimen of ancient masonry. They are flanked with large towers, about 200 paces distant from each other, with small towers in the middle. Below are magnificent casemates, which may serve for galleries to walk in. In the lower part of the towers is a large square hall, the roof of which is supported by thick columns of Thebaic stone. Above are several rooms, over which are platforms more than 20 paces square. The ancient reservoirs, vaulted with so much art, which extend under the whole town, remain almost entire at the end of 2000 years.
Of Cæsar's palace there remain only a few porphyry pillars, and the front, which is almost entire, and very beautiful. The palace of Cleopatra was built upon the walls facing the port, having a gallery on the outside, supported by several fine columns. Not far from this palace are two obelisks, vulgarly called Cleopatra's Needles. They are of Thebaic stone, and covered with hieroglyphics. One is overturned, broken, and lying under the sand; the other is on its pedestal. These two obelisks, each of which is a single stone, are about 60 feet high, by seven feet square at the base. Denon, who went to Egypt along with the French army in 1798, supposed that these columns decorated the entrance of the palace of the Ptolemies, the ruins of which still exist at no great distance from the place of the obelisks. Towards the gate of Rosetta are five columns of marble, on the place formerly occupied by the porticoes of the gymnasium. The rest of the colonnade, the design of which was discoverable 100 years ago by Maillet, has since been destroyed by the barbarism of the Turks.
But what most engages the attention of travellers is the pillar of Pompey, as it is commonly called, situated at a quarter of a league from the southern gate. It is composed of red granite. The capital, which is Corinthian, with palm leaves, and not indented, is nine feet high. The shaft and the upper member of the base are of one piece of nearly 90 feet long and nine in diameter. The base is a square of about 15 feet on each side. This block of marble, 60 feet in circumference, rests on two layers of stone bound together with lead; which, however, has not prevented the Arabs from forcing out several of them, to search for an imaginary treasure. The whole column has been said to be 117 feet high, but the most recent and careful estimates do not make it exceed 95. It is perfectly well polished, and only a little shivered on the eastern side. Nothing can equal the majesty of this monument; seen from a distance, it overtops the town, and serves as a signal for vessels. On a nearer approach, it produces an astonishment mixed with awe. One can never be tired with admiring the beauty of the capital, the length of the shaft, or the extraordinary simplicity of the pedestal. This last has been somewhat damaged by the instruments of travellers, who are curious to possess a relic of this antiquity. The column was considered inaccessible, till it was scaled about half a century ago by the wild frolic of a party of English sailors, who conceived the project of emptying a bowl of punch on the top of
this celebrated monument. Dexterously availing themselves of the movements of a paper kite, they succeeded in fastening a rope to the summit, by which they ascended, and performed this great achievement. They discovered a foot and ankle, the only remnant of a gigantic statue which had originally adorned it. It has since been rendered more accessible; and Mr Madden mentions an English lady who breakfasted and wrote a letter from this elevated position.
Learned men and travellers have made many fruitless attempts to discover in honour of what prince it was erected. The best informed have concluded that it could not be in honour of Pompey, since neither Strabo nor Diodorus Siculus has spoken of it. The Arabian Abulfeda, in his Description of Egypt, calls it the Pillar of Severus. And history informs us that this emperor visited the city of Alexandria. Denon, on this subject, expresses himself as follows:—"After having observed that the column is very chaste both in style and execution; that the pedestal and capital are not formed of the same granite as the shaft; that their workmanship is heavy, and appears to be merely a rough draught; and that the foundations, made up of fragments, indicate a modern construction,—it may be concluded that this monument is not antique, and that it may have been erected, either in the time of the Greek emperors or of the caliphs; since, if the capital and pedestal are of sufficiently good workmanship to belong to the former of these periods, they are not so perfect but that art may have reached so far in the latter."
On the south-west side of the city, at a mile's distance, are situated the catacombs, the ancient burial-place of Alexandria; a remarkable object, although they cannot be compared to those of the ancient Thebes. The Baron de Tott, in describing these, observes "that Nature not having furnished this part of Egypt with a ridge of rocks, like that which runs parallel with the Nile above Delta, the ancient inhabitants of Alexandria could only have an imitation by digging into a bed of solid rock; and thus they formed a Necropolis, or City of the Dead. The excavation is from 30 to 40 feet wide, 200 long, and 25 deep, and is terminated by gentle declivities at each end. The two sides, cut perpendicularly, contain several openings, about 10 or 12 feet in width and height, hollowed horizontally; and which form, by their different branches, subterranean streets. One of these, which curiosity has disencumbered from the ruins and sands that render the entrance of others difficult or impossible, contains no mummies, but only the places they occupied. The order in which they were ranged is still to be seen. Niches, 20 inches square, sunk six feet horizontally, narrowed at the bottom, and separated from each other by partitions in the rock seven or eight inches thick, divided into checkers the two walls of this subterranean vault. It is natural to suppose, from this disposition, that each mummy was introduced with the feet foremost into the cell intended for its reception; and that new streets were opened, in proportion as these dead inhabitants of Necropolis increased." This observation, he adds, which throws a light on the catacombs of Memphis, may perhaps likewise explain the vast size and multitude, as well as the different elevations, of the pyramids in Upper and Lower Egypt.
About 70 paces from Pompey's pillar is the khalis, or the canal of the Nile, which was dug by the ancient Egyptians, to convey the water of the Nile to Alexandria, and fill the cisterns under the city. This canal had ceased altogether to be navigable, till Mahmood, the present pacha, spent immense labour and cost in restoring it. Unfortunately, the Italian engineers whom he employed
were entirely destitute of the skill necessary to conduct so great and arduous an undertaking. They took no measures to protect the canal against the fresh influx of mud from the Nile, which accordingly has again choked it up to so great an extent, that it can scarcely be navigated, unless during the season of inundation.
Alexandria, in modern times, has never ranked as a fortress, and is considered by Volney as incapable of any defence. Accordingly, when attacked by Buonaparte in 1798, it surrendered without a blow. The French were very industrious in forming the place, if not into a regular fortress, yet into a very strong entrenched position. They appear to have succeeded. In 1801 Sir Ralph Abercromby undertook his memorable expedition. On the 13th and 21st March he gained, in the plain before Alexandria, two successive victories, of which the last was most complete and signal, though purchased by the life of the distinguished commander. Yet it was still not considered possible to carry Alexandria, unless by regular siege; the conclusion of which, on the 2d September, was accompanied by a general convention for the evacuation of Egypt by the French armies.
In 1806 a British force under General Frazer landed and took possession of Alexandria without resistance; but being repulsed in two successive attempts upon Rosetta, they finally evacuated it on the 21st June 1807.
Alexandria is about 40 leagues north-west of Cairo. Long. 30. 10. E. Lat. 31. 12. N.