CORK, a city and river-port, a county in itself, and the shire town of the county of the same name, 159 miles S.W. of Dublin, in N. Lat. 51. 53. 39. 3, and W. Long. 8. 20. Upwards of 150 years since it ranked below Limerick and Waterford, and was considered the fourth city in Ireland; but having risen rapidly in importance, it long maintained its place as second only to the metropolis. Of late, however, it has taken rank after Belfast in population, wealth, and commerce. According to the census of 1851 the population of the city was 85,745, inhabiting 9419 houses; being an increase of 5025 inhabitants and 646 inhabited houses since the census of 1841.
The city is finely situated in the centre of the valley of the Lee, inclosed on each side by high ground through which the river pursues its course to the harbour through a perpetual variety of beautiful scenery. The site of the city, which owes its origin either to the Danes, or more probably to a religious establishment founded at a remote period, was originally part of a series of small islands and marsh land formed by various channels of the river, many of which have at different times been covered over; and carriage drives and walks are formed upon ground over which even lately the tide flowed. The ancient group now forms one extensive island, formed by the two main branches of the Lee, and which is the chief portion of the present site of the city. It is connected with the mainland by six bridges, beyond which are extensive suburbs. The unevenness of much of the ground on which the city is built, the irregularity of the streets, the variety of the style of building, the intersecting river, and the overhanging heights, give a very pleasing and a somewhat picturesque aspect to the city of Cork. There are only a few good streets in it, and its public buildings will stand no comparison with those of Dublin.
Cork. It contains seven parishes, in which are the cathedral, six churches, two chapels of ease, three Roman Catholic parochial chapels, four monasteries and two nunneries with a chapel attached to each. These buildings have in general very small pretensions to architectural merit, and few towns of similar extent are so destitute of spires or other indications of ecclesiastical distinction. There are also two Presbyterian, a Baptist, an Independent, and two Methodist chapels. A Friends meeting-house also exists; and in this city the celebrated William Penn, together with several soldiers of the republican garrison, became converted to Quakerism. The palace of the bishop of Cork, Cloyne, and Ross, is a comfortable residence, without architectural pretensions. The county and city court-house, an elegant Grecian structure with a bold Corinthian portico thirty feet in height, is one of the few fine buildings in Cork. Also may be noticed the military barracks, a large building commanding the city, and capable of accommodating four regiments of infantry and 1000 cavalry; the new lunatic asylum, beautifully situated on the brow of a hill; the county and city gaols, with more of a palatial than a prison aspect. Besides these, there are other buildings less deserving of particular notice; as the savings-bank, the custom-house, the chamber of commerce, and the commercial buildings. The Royal Cork Institution is the chief literary association in the city. It obtained a charter in 1807, and a parliamentary grant of £2000 per annum, afterwards increased to £2500, but withdrawn in 1830. A society of arts was formed in 1815, but has long ceased to exist,—their fine collection of casts from the antique being deposited in the government school of design, which, together with the Royal Cork Institution, is transferred to the old custom-house. The new queen's college, built on the site of an ancient religious establishment, west of the bishop's palace on the south branch of the river Lee, is a handsome quadrangular building in the Tudor-Gothic style. It was opened in 1849. Cork abounds in religious, educational, literary, scientific, and charitable institutions, which have accommodation in appropriate buildings. Like the Liffey at Dublin, the river Lee is walled in by handsome quays erected at an expense of more than £1,000,000. Near the city is the "Père la Chaise" of Cork, founded by the Rev. Father Matthew, on the site of the old botanic garden of the Cork Institution, and containing many curious and valuable trees; and the citizens of Cork are justly proud of their delightful public walk, the Mardyke, shaded by noble elms extending in a straight line about a mile in length; and of the principal entrances to the city, commanding fine panoramic views in all directions. Within the boundaries of the borough, however, are numerous narrow and wretched streets and lanes, with a numerous population huddled together in a manner utterly repugnant to cleanliness or comfort.
Since the time of Henry II. no less than seventeen charters have been granted to the city; but extensive changes in the corporation were ultimately made by the Municipal Act, 3d and 4th Vict. cap. 108. It is now styled the "Mayor, Aldermen, and Burgesses of Cork," and consists of a mayor, 16 aldermen, and 48 town-councillors, whose jurisdiction is limited within the municipal boundaries, whilst that of the water bailiffs extends to the harbour. Since 1559 the city has returned two representatives, before the union to the Irish, and since that period to the imperial parliament. Although the area of the municipal borough contains only 2680 acres, the right of voting for the city members is still possessed by the inhabitants of the barony of Cork, essentially a rural population.
The trade of Cork is very extensive, consisting chiefly in the export of grain, provisions, and butter, &c., to the value of several millions annually. The principal branches of manufacture are distilling, brewing, tanning, iron-founding, and glove-making. The aggregate tonnage of vessels re-
gistered at the port is about 50,000; the number and tonnage of vessels entering the port employed in the cross channel and coasting trade reaches 1900 vessels and 240,000 tons; in the British colonial trade 50 vessels of 15,000 tons; in the foreign trade 370 vessels, tonnage 77,613. The foreign and colonial trade is chiefly with Portugal, the Mediterranean, the Baltic, and Canada; and the produce of the customs duties of the port average about £240,000 per annum.
The harbour, to the existence of which Cork is mainly indebted for its rise and progress, is situated about 11 miles below the city. It is completely land-locked, surrounded by charming scenery on every side, and capable of sheltering the entire navy of the United Kingdom. See QUEENSTOWN.
Cork has not much prominence in historical records. When surrendered to Henry II. in 1172 by Dermot MacCarthy, king of Cork or Desmond, it was a walled town. In 1493, as a punishment for having received and given encouragement to the pretender Perkin Warbeck, the city was deprived of its charter; and in the 16th century Camden describes it as a populous trading town, much resorted to, but beset with rebel enemies on all sides. In 1688 James II. landed in Cork; and two years after the city, which is incapable of being made a place of strength, was besieged by the forces of King William, under the command of the Earl afterwards the Duke of Marlborough. The town was defended for five days, when it surrendered. Henry Fitzroy, the second illegitimate son of Charles II., who had been created Duke of Grafton, and was one of the first who deserted the cause of James, was wounded at the storming of the city, and died there about a fortnight afterwards. (II. 8—9.)