UNTERWALDEN, a canton of Switzerland, and one of the three that formed the original confederacy; bounded on the N. by the Lake of Luzern, E. by the canton of Uri, S. by that of Bern, and W. by that of Luzern. Its length from N.E. to S.W. is 25 miles, its breadth 21, and its area 262 square miles. It is entirely a mountainous country; and is enclosed on every side but the north by branches of the Alps, diverging from the central group of St. Gothard. One ridge, in which are the mountains Geisburg and Brüinig, stretches along the southern border; another, containing the summits of Titlis (10,500 feet), Wallenstock, and Rothstock, each more than 8000 feet, divides it from Uri on the east; and a third, culminating in Mount Pilatus, (7000 feet), separates it from Luzern on the west. In the interior, the country is hilly rather than mountainous, and consists of two parallel valleys, sloping towards the Lake of Luzern in the north. Through the eastern of these flows the Engelberg Aa, and through the western the Sarnen Aa, both falling into the Lake of Luzern. These are the only important rivers in the canton. Besides the Lake of Luzern, about a fourth part of which belongs to the canton, there are two others of much smaller size—that of Lungern, in which the Engelberg Aa rises, at the foot of the mountains in the south-east; and that of Sarnen, through which the Sarnen Aa flows. The prevalent geological formation is chalk, in which a number of caverns occur. The soil is generally fertile; but as nearly the whole surface is occupied by mountains and hills, there is little ground fit for agriculture, and the canton is for the most part a pastoral country. Vines have been grown in some parts, but the wine is not good. The forests are extensive, stretch-
ing far up the mountain sides, and yielding valuable timber; while lower down there are plantations of chestnut-trees, and orchards yielding apples and pears. On the side of the Alps, at a great height, there is good pasture in summer, on which many cows are bred; and their milk is made into cheese, which is very highly esteemed in Switzerland and Italy. In the year 1854 Unterwalden contained 308 horses, 13,107 horned cattle, 4822 sheep, 7092 goats, and 4036 swine. In the same year there were 9100 milch cows in the country; and there were produced upwards of 21,000 cwt. of cheese, and 3500 cwt. of butter. The canton has no manufactures, nor is it favourably situated for trade. It exports cattle, cheese, butter, hides, and timber; and imports corn, wine, salt, manufactured goods, &c. It is divided into two parts, called Obwalden and Nidwalden, from their position above or below the forest of Kerns, near the centre. The capital of Obwalden is Sarnen; that of Nidwalden, Stanz. These two divisions form separate states, having distinct administrations; and they each send one member to the national council, and one to the council of states. The inhabitants of both are of German origin, and speak a dialect of that language. They are a simple, pastoral people, attached to their ancient customs, and bigoted in their faith, which is that of the Roman Catholic Church, under the jurisdiction of the Bishop of Chur. There are thirteen parish churches and five convents. The sovereignty is vested in the whole of the males above twenty, who assemble annually to appoint the government, and approve or reject the measures proposed by the legislature. The government thus appointed consists of a landamman, or president of the state, and an executive council. The people also appoint a legislative council. This account of
the government applies to both the states that form the canton; but they differ in the numbers of the different councils, and in other slight particulars. Unterwalden is required to furnish a contingent of 382 men to the national army. Pop. (1850) 25,138.
UPSAL or UPSALA, a city of Sweden, capital of a province of the same name, on the Sala, 47 miles N.W. of Stockholm. It is a fine old-fashioned town, and covers a considerable area of ground, the streets being generally wide and regular, and most of the houses having gardens attached to them. Many of the houses are of wood. The cathedral, though only of brick, is a very beautiful Gothic edifice, erected between 1258 and 1435. It is 330 feet in length by 140 in width, and has a fine west front flanked with towers. The interior is lofty and well proportioned, and contains tombs of Linnaeus and various of the kings of Sweden. The university of Upsala was founded by Sten Sture in 1477, and has faculties of theology, law, medicine, and philosophy. In 1859 it had 31 professors, and was attended by 1451 students. Connected with the university are a library of about 130,000 volumes and 7000 MSS.; a museum, in the hall of which is a statue of Linnaeus by Byström; a valuable cabinet of coins; botanic garden, and observatory. Upsala possesses few manufactures, and carries on but little external trade, the inhabitants being chiefly connected with, or dependent on, the university. It is the seat of an archbishop, who is primate of the kingdom. Pop. (1855) 8006. The laen, or province of Upsala, has an area of 2067 square miles, and a population of (1855) 90,828. It contains the iron mines of Dannemora, the largest and richest in Sweden.